Vermont life. Vol. 64, Iss. 4

2010·75.6 MB·English

by  Vermont Department of Tourism and Marketing

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SUMMER 2010
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Winter Sunrise, Sierra Nevada from Lone Pine, Calif, 1944. Photograph by Ansel Adams. Collection Center for Creative Photography, University of Arizona ©The Ansel Adams Publishing Rights Trust,
Ansel Adams and Edward Burtynsky:
Constructed Landscapes
June ic)-October 24
A new exhibit of over 6 0 works by Ansel Adams, the legendary photographer of pristine
American wilderness, and Edward Burtynsky, whose contemporary photographs illuminate
human impact on the natural world.
MAjOR SUPPORT IS PROVIDED BY!
A division of PeofiieiUm
S H E L B U R N E
A Nations] ufe VPR
ADDITIONAL SUPPORT! Group' MEDIA SUPPORT! M U S E U M
Blue
One of the nation’s finest, most diverse museums of art, design and Americana.
6000 Shelburne Road, Shelburne, Vermont.
www.shelburnemuseum.org
\ & r m o iit L if e
Summer 2010 Volume LXIV Number 4
F E A T U R E S
26
Summer Moments
A scenic portfolio by Vermont Life contributing
photographers
38
Nome Recognition
A family legacy and new-school farming set the
table for the next generation of von Trapps
40
Food Is Hip
For these young Vermonters, the "now" field is food
48
Restaurants of Note
The music is hot at these eclectic eateries
52
Seeds of Change
A new Vermont village asks, "Can farms, not golf
E» *, \ ■
courses, form the heart of a suburb?"
Cover; Photographed by Jim Westphalen
Pork from Vermont's Family Form, Enosburg Falls; cabbage, Pete's
Greens, Craftsbury; sprouts, Toll A Bell Farm, East Calais; vinegar,
Honest-to-Goodness at Ginger Brook Form, So. Washington;
Cranberry beans, The Beanery in Exeter, Maine
D E P A R T M E N T S
On The W eb
4 Inside VL
www.VermontLife.com
5 Update
Enjoy multimedia extras linked to stories in this issue:
6 This Season
VIDEO
Highlights of places to go and things to do this summer
Watch photographer Jim Westphalen at our cover
shoot. See how he captures food, people and the
Arts Life
"hip factor" on location at The Black Door Bar and
11 "Ansel Adams and Edward Burtynsky: Constructed
Bistro in Montpelier.
Landscapes"
12 An Evening With Furthur VIDEO
Soar above Vermont with videographer Ryan
12 "Creations: A Youth Collaboration of Visions"
Mercer as he floats in a hot air balloon,
Shelf Life
SLIDE SHOW
14 "The Connecticut River: A Photographic Journey into
Jon Vachon captures the beauty of haying, a
the Heart of New England" and other outdoor books
timeless ritual in Vermont. You can practically smell
15 "Hay Fever: How Chasing a Dream on a Vermont Farm summer when you view these photos.
Changed My Life"
CHECK, PLEASE
16 Outdoor Recreation Take a look at menus from the fantastic Vermont
restaurants featured in our new "Out to Eat" section.
Once in your life, shouldn't you experience a hot air
You'll be dialing for reservations before you know it.
balloon ride?
18 Getaways
PLACES IN THIS ISSUE
Enjoy a hike by these six wondrous waterfalls
1. Manchester p. 33
32 Out to Eat 2. Barre p. 40
Our new section on Vermont restaurants highlights 3. Waitsfield Common p. 38
great places to enjoy a meal 4. South Burlington p. 52
5. Sharon p. 12
34 Cooking in Season
6. West Pawlet p. 15
Tomatoes at their peak launch our new
7. Salisbury p. 20
recipe column
8. Brattleboro p. 62
62 The Working Landscape 9. Rutland p. 66
Threads of rural life are entwined in haying
66 Ingenuity
Families flock to a cornfield puzzle in Rutland
80 Vermont Observed
The Lost Wardsboro Road
VERMONT LIFE
Summers on Ice at Jay Peak.
0 0
ICE ^ H A U S
Opening Spring 2010
0 Presenting the New Jay Peak Ice Haus Arena, Open Year Round.
0
Hockey and Stick-n-Puck
>*(* Public and Figure Skating
Curling
Private Rentals
^ Pro Shop
^ Snack Bar and Café with Fully Licensed Bar
To inquire about private rentals, ice time rental or skating and lodging packages,
please call Dennis Himes at [phone] or email dhimesldjaypeakresort.com.
JAY É|É PEAK
V E R M O N T ............................................................................... Move up. jaypeakresort.com
SUMMER 2 0 10 • 3
\^ rm o n tL ifc
MAGAZINE
is published quarterly by the State of Vermont
Summer 2010 Volume LXIV Number 4
James H. Douglas, Governor
Kevin L. Dorn, Secretary, Agency of Commerce
and Community Development
Bruce J. Hyde, Commissioner,
Department of Tourism & Marketing
Editor Mary Hegarty Nowlan
Managing Editor Bill Anderson
Art Director Jan Lowry Hubbard
Production Manager D. J. Goodman
I n s i d e VL Production Editor Judy Thurlow
Business Manager Julie George
Fulfillment Manager Marilyn Wood
Food for Thought Business Manager's Assistant Tammy Duprey
Shipping Manager Joe Rossi
Projects Editor Sky Barsch Gleiner
We're excited about Vermont 's food scene . We think it 's one of Food Editor Melissa Pasanen
the best things about Vermont today, a perfect reflection of some of
Intern Chelsea Alexander
our finest qualities: agricultural know-how, a creative spirit, a dash
of idealism and pure hard work. That's why we created this special Vermont Life Advisory Board:
Pennie Beach, John Boutin, Paul Bruhn, Jack Growl,
food-focused issue, and why we are launching two new columns in the Katheran L. Fisher, Brian Harwood, Fran Stoddard
magazine: "Out to Eat" and "Cooking in Season."
Editor Emeritus Tom Slayton
Inspired by the abundance of great places to eat in Vermont, Out to
Editorial and Business Offices: [phone]
Eat (page 32) will highlight everything from neighborhood bakeries to
upscale restaurants. In each issue, we'll tell you about five or six places Advertising and Product Sales Office
Harvest Limited LLC
worth trying. We'll let you know about the most interesting food cre­ P.O. Box 128, Warren, VT 05674
ations, what the atmosphere is like and what to expect for prices. But Tel. [phone] ext. 1, fax [802} 496-7699
E-mail: [email protected]
don't look for any negative reviews ... if a place isn't worth your time,
Advertising Director Judy Macisaac
we won't be writing about it.
Newsstand Coordinator Howard White & Associates
Cooking in Season (page 34) will also tap into our rich food culture.
Each issue, we'll offer intriguing recipes from Vermont chefs, made Single Issue: S5.95
One-Year Subscription Rates $18.97 in U.S.A.,
with fresh, local ingredients. This issue, we focus on tomatoes, and
$22.95 Canada & Foreign Delivery
suggest a grilled fruit salad that will make you happier than ever that For Subscription inquiries
it's summer. please go online at www.VermontLife.com
and click Subscriber Services
Our lead story, "Food Is Hip" (page 40), looks at a new generation
or call toll free [phone] or e-mail [email protected]
of Vermonters who are creating livelihoods around growing, provid­
ing and cooking high-quality, local food. This enterprising mindset is Vermont Life Magazine (ISSN 0042-417X) is published quarterly
in February, May, August and November.
putting Vermont at the forefront of innovation and driving economic Editorial and business offices are located at
opportunities well beyond the restaurant scene. Developers in South One National Life Drive, 6th Floor
Montpelier, VT 05620
Burlington, for instance, are putting a farm at the center of a suburban
(8021 828-3241
neighborhood, intertwining the two, physically and philosophically Editorial comments or questions; [email protected]
("Seeds of Change," page 52). Website: www.VcrmontLife.com
Making all of these stories possible is our new food editor, Melissa
Change of address must be received eight weeks prior to pub
Pasanen. Melissa is an award-winning journalist who has met and lication to ensure continuous delivery of magazine. Pleas
interviewed national food personalities from Alice Waters to Emeril include your old address as well as your new address. Peri
odicals postage paid at Montpelier, VT, and additional mai
Lagasse, but she says it is the stories of Vermont farmers, cheesemakers, ing offices. POSTMASTER: Send form #3.541 to Vermon
sugar makers and food activists that stay with her. "When I first started Life, One National Life Drive, 6th Floor, Montpelier, VI
writing about local food and restaurants, I did not realize how it would © Copyright 2010 by Vermont Life Magazine.
Printed in the U.S.A.
open my eyes to so much of what is special about our state," says
Privacy Notice: Subscribers, to have your name excluded from us
Pasanen. "Remembering all these people, I am reminded once again by third parties, call [phone].
that I don't really write about food, I write about people ... but food is The editors of Vermont Life will review any submissions. Du
to volume received, all submissions cannot he responded to indi
always a good way in."
vidually. No responsibility is assumed by the State of Vermont c
Vermont Life for loss or damage to materials submitted. Retur
postage must accompany all manuscripts, drawings and phe
tographs if they are to be returned. All rights arc reserved. N
part of Vermont Life may be reproduced without permission c
Mary Hegarty Nowlan, Editor the editor. Vermont Life''* is a trademark registered with th
United States Patent and Trademark Office.
[email protected]
www.VermontLife.com
.Member:
International Regional
.Magazine Association
4 • VERMONT LIFE
U p d a t e
INBOX
GENERAL IMPRESSIONS PRIDE OF PLACE
From Sylvia Fagin, Montpelier, Vt. From Jim Moore, Proctor, Vt.
Thanks so much for the piece about I just received the Spring issue and
Vermont's young people ("Minding detected a change in the air! These
the Store: Teenagers keep our general past years our magazine hasn't given
stores from becoming relics," Spring me the kick that it once did. Oh, I fig­
2010). It is nice to see them portrayed ured it was just me getting oLder and
in a positive light and for the eager, crankier — "Vermont Life just isn't as
capable young people they are. Maybe good as it used to be." But this spring's
more of this kind of press will con­ issue was a real hoot. Thanks, I'm
vince more of them to stick around — proud again.
or return here to raise their families!
From fo Ann Geer, Canyon Lake, Calif.
From Elizabeth A. Kutsche, I can't begin to tell you how much
Kalamazoo, Mich. I enjoy your magazine. I am a native ALRIGHT ALREADY
Love those general stores and the Californian but have been going to
wonderful young people — all "apple Vermont since the early '80s. It is When our Spring 2010 issue hit the
pie, mother and the flag" — who make such a beautiful state; we have driven streets, guardians of grammar quick­
them possible in our modern world. all through it and we try to make it ly mobilized against our spelling of
Now that's Vermont to me! twice a year. My favorite cities are alright in our cover story. "Incor­
Burlington and Woodstock. I just
rect," "huge faux pas," "shame,"
PICTURE PERFECT love Vermont. "egregious" — these were just a few
From Dexter and Sally Ovitt, of the remarks tossed our way.
BACKCOUNTRY TO THE FUTURE
New Smyrna Beach, Fla. "The Kids Are Alright," as we used
From Jim Pease, Morrisville, Vt.
Born and raised in Bakersfield and it, refers to the 1960s song recorded
Richford, we loved the [Spring] issue. Congratulations to you and Tom by British rockers The Who. We
The article by Matt Crawford was Slayton for the ski trail article ("A thought the phrase was a fun way
excellent in capturing the feeling of Thousand Cuts: As backcountry skiing
to describe our feature on the
first landing a trout after a long winter goes mainstream, secret trail mak­
bright, hard-working young people
season. The photos by Stefan Hard ing poses a 'moral dilemma' for the
employed in our general stores.
were also well done. In "Spring Deliv­ sport," Winter 2009-2010). The best
But we also checked our usage
ery" we noticed some new photogra­ way to resolve this issue would be for
sources. The Merriam-Webster
phers ... [Photography] brings a great the land managers to provide direction
perspective that cannot be captured by and guidance — to those who wish Unabridged Collegiate Dictionary
any other medium. to create new ski routes — on where online said: "Since the early 20th
and how to cut trails in an ecologi­ century some critics have insisted
From Maria Scotti, cally sustainable way. They would tap alright is wrong, but it has its defend­
Port Washington, N.Y. into the volunteer energy available at ers and its users. It is less frequent
no cost and create new recreational
I have enjoyed your magazine and than all right but remains in com­
its beautiful photography for years. But opportunities for all who enjoy the mon use especially in journalistic
the photo by Diane Bousquet of the Green Mountains. In other words, and business publications. It is quite
baby lamb ("Spring Delivery") touched with no place to go and create new ski
common in fictional dialogue, and is
my heart. I have kept that page open routes, there will continue to be a pro­
used occasionally in other writing."
on my night table so I can go to sleep liferation of illegal cuts and trails.
and wake up seeing that precious face. In the 1930s, Perry Merrill, Charlie So with the blessing of Merriam-
Lord and many others provided the Webster, we decided to go with the
necessary vision and created an alpine cultural reference. Besides, accord­
MOVED BY VERGENNES
From Dennis Marquardt, Portland, Maine ski trail network legacy. Why can't ing to The American Heritage Dic­
this happen for the backcountry today? tionary, well-known writers such as
Thanks for reminding us about the
Langston Hughes and James Joyce
wonderful city of Vergennes ("Vigilant
Vergennes")! My wife and I moved also opted for the spelling that we
Send letters to Vermont Life,
there in 1978 to begin a new church ... chose. Which makes it alright in
One National Life Drive, 6th Floor,
We loved the place so much wc stayed our book.
Montpelier, VT 05620
as pastor for 24 years, raised our fam­
E-mail: [email protected] — The Editors
ily, helped as a church with projects.
One of the best moves of our lives.
SUMMER 2 0 10 • 5
Circ^^ mi rku^
This Season
Summerlong
Places to go and things to do
Vermont Agricultural Fairs
Just about every county in Vermont has
its own agricultural fair, with events such
CREATIVE THINKING
as cow judging and pie eating mixed
in among the midway games, carnival
♦ From May 22 to Oct. 31, rides and candy apple snacks. The fol­
lowing is just a sample — for a full list,
catch State of Craft, a new exhibit in
visit www.vermontagriculture.com.
Bennington that examines "the evolution
♦Connecticut Valley Fair, July 15-18,
of the contemporary studio craft movement in Bradford
Vermont" from 1 960 to today. See the works ♦Washington County Fair & Field Days,
of 86 craftspeople and learn how they make a Aug. 6-8, Waitsfield
♦Addison County Fair & Field Days,
living, find inspiration and make connections with their communities.
Aug. 10-14, New Haven
$9 adults, $8 seniors and stu­
♦Caledonia County Fair, Aug. 25-29,
dents over 1 8, under 1 8 free.
Lyndonville
10 a.m. to 5 p.m., closed ♦Champlain Valley Fair, Aug. 28-Sept.
Wednesdays until Sept. 1, 6, Essex Junction
then open daily. Bennington ♦Vermont State Fair, Sept. 3-12, Rutland
♦Tunbridge World's Fair, Sept. 16-19,
Museum, Bennington.
Tunbridge
[phone].
June 4-13
♦ On May 29 and 30, our creative economy is on display in Burlington Discover Jazz Festival
Burlington
another way through the annual Open Studio Weekend. This is your
chance to see hundreds of Vermont artists working in their creative If you've discovered our jazz festival,
space, which might be as formal as a modern studio or as rustic as a you know our little state can put on a
big show. On tap this year are sax titan
backyard barn. There's every medium you can imagine, from blown
Sonny Rollins as well as Jim Hall, Mose
glass to furniture to pottery. Ask questions, purchase art, find deals on
Allison, Allen Toussaint, Arturo Sandoval
seconds, get inspired. You can find a map and further information at
and roots music legend Levon Helm. This
www.vermontcrafts.com. eclectic festival keeps the small-town
Vermont feel with chances to meet many
musicians and hear some of our fantastic
local talent, from high school hotshots to
nightclub pros. Times and ticket prices
VERMONT LIFE
vary; some events are free. Full schedule historic debates, ice cream-making
July 3-4
at www.discoverjazz.com. and more. 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
[phone]. $12 and less. Woodstock.
Independence Day Celebrations
[phone].
June 25 Nobody knows the spirit of
and additional dates
independence like Vermonters. Come July 16-17
Circus Smirkus Big Top Tour celebrate our nation's 234th birthday.
Various locations Vermont Brewers Festival
July 3
Waterfront Park, Burlington
The talented young performers of the
Greensboro-based Circus Smirkus wow ♦Montpelier's Independence Day is Some 36 craft brewers from Vermont,
audiences with their first-rate shows. This a citywide, daylong extravaganza. New York, New Hampshire,
year, the theme for the Big Top Tour is An eccentric parade, one-mile road Massachusetts, Maine and Québec will
"Wilderness Wonders: Outdoor Adven­ race, music, food, more. Free. Visit be on hand to talk up their delicious
tures Under the Big Top." Clowns, aerial- www.montpelieralive.org for details. concoctions of barley, malt and yeast.
ists, juggling lumberjacks and dancers
You can ask questions, refine your
celebrate the "fun-tier" to live, original ♦ Wardsboro celebrates with an
palate and trade tales of the best beer
music. This is a crowd pleaser for chil­ art show, raffles and homage to
you ever had. Meet the brewers, learn
dren and adults. Greensboro, June 25 the town's native turnip variety,
about pairing beer and chocolate, and
and Aug. 14-15; Essex, June 28-30; the Gilfeather. 9 a.m. Free. Main
beer and cheese. 6 to 1 0 p.m. Friday;
Manchester, July 8-9; Brattleboro, July Street. [phone].
noon to 4 p.m. and 6 to 1 0 p.m.
14-15; Montpelier, Aug. 11-12. Cost
Saturday. $25 per four-hour session.
varies by location. Tickets and schedules ♦ Burlington parties at 9:30 p.m.
[phone].
at [phone], www.smirkus.org. with fireworks over Burlington
Harbor. Free.
June 27 July 16-18
[phone].
Strawberry Festival SolarFest
July 4
Cedar Circle Farm, East TFietford Forget Me Not Farm, Tinmouth
♦Warren's parade is never mellow
The juiciest, ruby-red gems of summer This long-running festival showcases
— this community loves to take
are what this festival is all about. Enjoy "the power of positive energy," offering
full advantage of our right to
a horse-drawn wagon ride to and from green vibes and good times. Powered
free speech. The 2010 theme is
organic strawberry fields where you completely by renewable energy, the
"Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of
can pick your own fruit, watch cooking event features a sustainable-living
Healthiness." Parade at 10 a.m.
demonstrations and take a guided farm marketplace, food, crafts, outdoor
Festivities after, fireworks at dark.
tour. Sweeten your day with homemade theater, more. Noon to 10 p.m. Friday;
$1. Main Street. [phone].
strawberry shortcake and local organic 9 a.m. to 11 p.m. Saturday; until 7 p.m.
ice cream. 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. $5 parking ♦Old Vermont 4th at Billings Farm Sunday. $45 for weekend pass, other
(come by bike or foot and get in for & Museum features a reading of prices and options available.
free). [phone]. the Declaration of Independence, [phone], www.solarfest.org.
SUMMER 20 1 0
Celebrate Verm ont s True Colors This Season
at the iSouthern yermont Arts Center
July 17-18
Experience all the beauty Vermont has to offer and see how Vermont’s
colorful character has been inspiring artists for nearly a century. Vermont Mountain Bike Festival
River Road, Waterbury
Get stoked and get muddy at the
third annual Vermont Mountain Bike
Festival. Group rides, vendors, women's
FINE ART
clinics, music, barbecue, beer specials
YESTER HOUSE GALLERIES: and mountain bike movies. A great
June 19 - July 20 June Solo Exhibitions
opportunity to learn about gear, find
July 24 - August 24 July Solo Exhibition
new places to ride and meet riding
August 28 - September 26 August Solo Exhibitions
buddies. Schedule will be posted at
CULTURAL EXHIBITIONS www.vermontmountainbikefestival.com.
WILSON MUSEUM:
July 3 through September 12
“Bobby, Martin g John: Once Upon an American Dream”
From the Archives of photojournaiist Stanley Tretick
PERFORMING ARTS
ARKELL PAVILION:
July 30 Peter Duchin
August 6 Hankerin’ 4 Hank:
The Music of Hank Williams Sr.
August 14 Lucie Arnaz
August 20 Twiddle
EDUCATION July 17-18
MADEIRA EDUCATION CENTER:
Rock River Artists Tour
Adult Workshops in Pastel, Drawing, Painting and
Sculpture. Visit www.svac.org for details. ^ Dover and South Newfane
■ ■ ■
More than a dozen professional artists
Experience the colorful world that awaits you at the Southern Vermont Arts Center. open their homes and studios for the
Rock River Artists Tour. Pottery, collage,
SOUTHERN VERMONT
sculpture, fiber, photography and more.
ARTS CENTER
10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Free. Old Schoolhouse
in Dover and Augur FHole Road in South
Vermont’s True Colors
Newfane. [phone].
manchester, Vermont | svac.org | 802.362.1405
tuesday-saturday 10-5 | Sunday 11-5
July 3 1
Onion River Century Ride
Various routes from Montpelier to
the Northeast Kingdom
Pick your pleasure: 24, 68 or 112 miles
of touring our beautiful northern roads
by bike. All rides begin and end in
Montpelier: the short ride takes you to
Adamant, the mid-length route to Hard­
wick and Lake Elmore, the long route to
Hardwick, Barton, Albany, Morrisville,
Lake Elmore. After the ride, feast on a
barbecue with fellow riders and friends.
$50 before July 20, $65 after and $30
if you collect $50 in pledges. Proceeds
8 • VERMONT LIFE