Vermont life. Vol. 64, Iss. 3

2010·75.8 MB·English

by  Vermont Department of Tourism and Marketing

COOL LANDSCAPING: SPRING FEVER GUIDE: RIVERSIDE EATS:
Hhere to buy hardy trees 50 ways to shake off winter Dining in Middlebury
p. 36 p. 6 p. 12'
wr&iontLife
Exploring the Dynamic Culture of Contemporary Vermont
Periodicals
I
PHOTO FEATURE
Hard-working teens
our general stores"
Is VERGENPfES
at a tipping point?
p. 50
R A IN B O W W ARRIORS
Trout fishing on the Willoughby
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Vermont
Owned by Dairy Farmers
Since 1919
CENTER
VISITOR
TOURS
Cabot Annex Store Cabot Quechee Sto|
Cabot Visitors Center
Rt. 100, Waterbury Rt. 4, Quechee
Main Street, Cabot
802.244.6334 802.295.1180
800.837.4261
cabotcheese.coop
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V&rmontLife
Spring 2010 Volume LXIV Number 3
F E A T U R i^lt^LEBURYCOU-EGE
m \ 2 20|
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bpnng Delivery
Vermont comes to life in photos
Casting Call
Trout season opening beckons anglers to
the Willoughby River
On The W eb
D E P A R T M E N T S
4 Inside VL www.VernnontLife.com
Enjoy multimedia extras linked to stories in this issue:
5 Update
6 This Season SLIDE SHOW
Highlights of places to go and things to do this spring Check out more of Daria Bishop's exquisitely com­
posed, slice-of-life photos of teenagers working
Arts Life in Vermont's general stores ("Minding the Store,"
pages 40-49).
11 "Wataa Bilal: Agent Intellect"
12 Skip Gorman and Connie Dover
SLIDE SHOW
«aw
fi Vergennes is a little city with a big heart. Jordan
Shelf Life
Silverman captures images of the community,
13 "A Room for Learning: The Making of a School in Vermont"
from 3 Squares Café to the Bixby Memorial Free
14 "Phish: The Biography"
Library ("Vigilant Vergennes," page 50).
15 . "In a Cheesemaker's Kitchen"
RECIPES
16 Outdoor Recreation
Want to eat like you're on Otter Creek? Try these
Sculling is a natural fit on Vermont's lakes and waterways
delicious recipes from the wonderful restauronts
that overlook the river (Vermont Eats, page 22).
18 Getaways
In Windsor, a pork imitates life
22 Vermont Eats
Good food and great views line the banks of Otter Creek
PLACES IN THIS ISSUE
66 Ingenuity 1. Middlebury p. 22
Rowing titan Concept2 thrives in out-of-the-way Morrisville 2. Windsor p. 18
3. Norwich p. 58
80 Vermont Observed
4. Orleans p. 32
"The Earth Belongs to the Living"
5. Vergennes p. 50
6. Morrisville p. 66
7. Craftsbury p. 16
8. Elmore p. 36
9. Ripton p. 13
10. Putney p. 6
VERMONT LIFE
IT’S ALWAYS SU M M ER AT
BASIN H A R B O R
It is never too early to begin planning your dream summer vacation.
Book your vacation before A p ril 9th, 2010 to receive $100.00 in Basin Bucks!
Our one-oF-a-kincl club features great dining, breathtaking gardens, nature trails,
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or just wamler through our breathtaking gardens. Gi\'eyourself the gift of summer
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For Inform ation anti Reservtitions, call 800.622.4000
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BASIN HARBOR CLUB
On Lake Champlain,Vermont
C L A S S I C V E R M O N T H O S P I T A L I T Y S I N C E 1886
W W W . B A S I N H A R B O R . C O M
S P R 1 N U 2 0 10 • I
N s I D E V L
\^ r m o n t L i f c
MAGAZINE
Counter Culture is published quarterly by the State of Vermont
Spring 2010 Volume LXIV Number 3
James H. Douglas, Governor
Kevin L. Dorn, Secretary, Agency of Commerce
Our managing editor , Bill Anderson , and Community Development
often stops at the Jericho Center Country
Bruce J. Hyde, Commissioner,
Store on his way home from work. The Department of Tourism & Marketing
créait of the wooden floors, the vintage
potbelly stove and the bank of old brass Editor Mary Hegarty Nowlan
Managing Editor Bill Anderson
mailboxes make it the quintessential
Art Director Jan Lowry Hubbard
Vermont general store. In fact, the Jer­ Production Manager D. J. Goodman
icho Center store is Vermont's longest Production Editor Judy Thurlow
continuously running — now 203 years old and counting. Business Manager Julie George
The age of the building stands in stark contrast to the 21st-century Fulfillment Manager Marilyn Wood
Business Manager's Assistant Tammy Duprey
teens who run it. Like many other such businesses around the state,
Shipping Manager Joe Rossi
the store is often in the hands of these young people, who work the
Projects Editor Sky Barsch Gleiner
counter, make the sandwiches, stock the shelves, mop the floors and,
perhaps most important, make the store a friendly, upbeat place rather Vermont Life Advisory Board;
Pennie Beach, Paul Bruhn, Jack Growl,
than a dusty anachronism.
Katheran L. Fisher, Brian Harwood, Fran Stoddard
Anderson suggested that we do a story on these hard-working kids.
At a time when teens are often portrayed as capable of interacting only Editor Emeritus Tom Slayton
in a virtual world, photographer Daria Bishop found quite the opposite.
Editorial and Business Offices: [phone]
"The kids were engaging and loved the social aspect of the job," says
Advertising and Product Sales Office
Bishop. "They seemed to really appreciate the chance to be an impor­ Harvest Limited LLC
tant part of their communities." (See "Minding the Store," page 40.) P.O. Box 128, Warren, VT 05674
Tel. [phone] ext. 1, fax [phone]
It turns out that working at the local general store is a highly sought-
E-mail: [email protected]
after position among teens. The short commute — rare in rural com­ Advertising Director Judy Maclsaac
munities — and the chance to work in a lively environment where
Newsstand Coordinator Howard White &. Associates
friends stop in makes it more appealing than flipping burgers at a
faraway fast-food franchise. "I like seeing people from school," says
Single Issue; S4.95
Darren Kennedy, 18, who works at the store. "Everyone comes in on One-Year Subscription Rates $15.95 in U.S.A.,
their way home." $22.95 Canada & Foreign Delivery
Each of the stores also seems to operate like a close-knit family, with For Subscription inquiries
please go online at www'.VermontLife.com
teamwork, trust and mutual admiration, says Bishop. "I was so im­ and click Subscriber Services
pressed with the teenagers' sense of responsibility to their stores. And or call toll free [phone] or e-mail [email protected]
more than once, I heard the kids say, "I love my bosses," she says.
Vermont Life Magazine (ISSN 0042-417X) is published quarter
"I tell them we can't pay them $20 an hour, but we'll have fun, and
in February, May, August and November.
I'll show them respect," says Jon St. Amour, one of the owners of the Editorial and business offices are located at
Jericho store. "I try not to be the evil boss because I remember what it's One National Life Drive, 6th Floor
Montpelier, VT 05620
like to be that kid with their first job. Working at the store teaches kids 18021 828-3241
responsibility and helps them to open up. We teach them how to work, Editorial comments or questions: [email protected]
and that's the bottom line." Website: www.VermontLife.com
Change of address must be received eight weeks prior to pu
Also in this issue: lication to ensure continuous delivery of magazine. Plea
We bring you spring! Matt Crawford visits the Willoughby River include your old address as well as your new address. Pe
odicals postage paid at Montpelier, VT, and additional ma
for opening day of trout season (page 32), when anglers shake free of ing offices. POSTMASTER: Send form #.LS41 to Vermo
winter's grip and snap off their first casts of the year. And Dirk Van Life, One National Life Drive, 6th Floor, Montpelier, V
© Copyright 2010 by Vermont Life Magazine.
Susteren splashes around Elmore Roots (page 36) as it bubbles to life
Printed in the U.S.A.
with the melt of six streams. This northern orchard specializes in Privocy Notice: Subscribers, to have your name excluded from u
hardy heirloom varietals. We also explore great places to grab a bite to by third parties, call (8001 284-3243.
eat along Middlebury's Otter Creek (page 22) as winter's runoff swells The editors of Vermont Life will review any submissions. Di
to volume received, all submissions cannot be responded
the river and provides spectacular views while dining. individually. No responsibility is assumed by the State of Vermo
Enjoy. or Vermont Life for loss or damage to materials submitti
Return postage must accompany all manuscripts, drawings ai
photographs if they are to be returned. All rights arc reserve
No part of Vermont Life may be reproduced without permissi<
Mary Hegarty Now'wn, Editor of the editor. Vermont Life"* is a trademark registered with tl
United States Patent and Trademark Office.
[email protected]
www.VermontLife.com
•Member:
International Regional
Magazine Association
• \'ERMONT LIFE
4
U P D A T E
SPECIAL ISSUE
MOVING FORWARD
'■g/ V /j/jiar
From Christian M. Clough, Takoma From Joseph M. Cuoco and Lisa R.
Park, Md. Cuoco, New York, N.Y.
I was in Burlington (recently) and My wife and I have become avid
picked up a copy of the weekly tabloid readers of Vermont Life over the past
Seven Days, which printed an article on several years and have just purchased
the controversy over recent changes to a house in Grafton, Vt. We both have
Has secret trail
Vermont Life magazine. Fiow timely was commented about the new style that the gone too 7
my visit, then, as I have REALLY enjoyed magazine has taken. We were slightly Brattleboro’s tg^rj^rce
the most recent two or three issues. Hav­ surprised about the degree of reaction Cret-kSWjine ♦ ûog'!- ;; • Ice FisWQg
ing visited Vermont innumerable times that has been expressed regarding the
throughout my life — first as a child with new layout and changes that you have
parents, then as a grad student at Yale brought to the magazine. The new look
and more recently as a regretful exile is great, it is refreshing; we loved the fall
from New England — I have always cover with the multiple pictures and the
From Rachel Beebe, San Francisco, Calif
been fond of your state. Special Issue "The Edge of Winter." As
Just wanted to write and say how
Like so many of your readers, I am always the articles are wonderful, and
much I enjoyed your Winter issue. I'm
sure that my views of Vermont are they capture what I think Vermont is all
a native Vermonter, but haven't lived
skewed by a degree of romanticism. about: the people!
there for about 10 years now. I moved
Nevertheless, I have always sought out Keep up the good work, you have
away for college in Massachusetts and
something of the "real" Vermont, and I brought a fresh perspective to the maga­
then on to London, England, and now
believe that your recent changes to the zine and change is not always good or
San Francisco, but I've always identi­
magazine are, indeed, revealing more bad, it's just change.
fied strongly as a Vermonter more than
of the diversity of Vermont, including
anything else, and I've enjoyed reading
more of its treasures and challenges. From Edith Gould, Birmingham, Ala.
each new issue of Vermont Lifeand look­

Vermont may preserve, better than Being a true Vermonter, I relish every
ing at the lovely photos that remind me
many states, simpler ways of life, but issue and resent the critics ("Inbox,"
of the place I still consider home.
it is still a state that is moving forward. Winter 2009-2010). Try looking at
This issue brought wintertime in Ver­
Vermont's relative quiet in the latter half other regional magazines filled with
mont alive in my memory — I could hear
of the 20th century may have better pre­ home decoration and food with every­
the crunch and squeak of snow under
pared it for the cultural, social, economic thing geared to extreme wealth.
boots and feel the sting of cold morning
and environmental challenges we face Far adrift in the deep South, I enjoy all
air in my lungs — and I wanted to say
in the 21sf, as it remained somewhat less of it: the people, the places, the ads for
thanks for putting together such a lovely
corrupted by modernism. Vermont has the wonderful products produced in Ver­
publication. Also, as an editor myself, I
wisdom to share. I commend you and mont, the pictures. Stay with it, Mary.
know how much effort goes into making
your staff for using your wonderful mag­
a magazine. Here's to a job well done.
azine to impart some of that wisdom, as WINTER'S EDGE
well as the delights of Vermont.
From Ralph Vartull, Hayesville, N.C.
From Ruby P. Jenness, Morgan, Vt.
I really enjoyed the Special Issue
ZEAL FOR REVAMP "The Edge of Winter" was a stunning
"The Edge of Winter." Being a former
edition: the pictures, the stories, even the
Vermont native — born in Winooski in
From Olive M. L. Burdekin, Blenheim, color pictures in the ads are awesomel
1 934 — I have subscribed to Vermont
New Zealand I have skied all my life, but creek skiing
Life for the past 20 years, and I also

I am writing to congratulate you on — my gosh I Also: Who has heard the
send subscriptions (as gifts) to East Hart­
the extraordinary revamp of your excel­ rush of wind (Brattleboro's "Air Force")
ford, Conn., and Fishkill, N.Y. I really
lent publication. when standing near the takeoff on Harris
enjoyed "Get Started: Ice Fishing." It
Today, I came home from church and Hill at the moment when the ski jumpers
brings back old memories fishing on
with my cup of coffee picked up Ver­ leave the slope and fly off into space?
Lake Champlain with my four sons.
mont Life for a quick look-see. I ended I was there in the 1 970s and felt total
Your articles are diverse, with different
up reading it from cover to coverl Such terror when our young son made the
stories of interest, and I look forward to
beautiful pictures, such interesting stories flight during practice jumps. Via snow
the next issue.
about places dear to the hearts of Ver­ machines, we check the huts ("Get
monters. Far from a negative change, Started: Ice Fishing") that dot Lake Sey­
the magazine is so, so much more attrac­ mour in front of our home in Morgan. I Send letters to Vermont Life,
tive — a superb jobi My magazine is shall try the recipe for pork stew ("Get One National Life Drive, 6th Floor,

passed on to N.Z. friends and passed Stoked"). May this magazine never go Montpelier, VT 05620
on and on ... I out of production! E-mail: [email protected]
s P R I N c: 2 0 1 0 • 5
0lui
•’1
This Season
mastery of ballads and the softer side of
Celtic music. 7:30 p.m. $40-45.
Places to go and things to do [phone].
March 14
Catamount Trail Challenge
Trapp Family Lodge to Bolton
Through April 30 caterers, restaurateurs and amateur Valley Nordic Center
cooks get together and make the best If 17 kilometers and a 2,420-foot verti­
"Impressions of Vermont"
chili possible, and you can be the judge. cal climb sound like a calling rather than
On View Last year, 29 vendors made more than a nightmare, sign up for the Catamount
Bennington Museum, Bennington 50 different kinds of chili. The public Trail Challenge race. The trek begins at
determines the best in seven categories. Trapp Family Lodge in Stowe, covering
Drawn from the museum's permanent
Nancy Geoghegan of the Grapevine Nebraska Notch to the highest point
collection, this impressionism exhibit
Grille is eagerly awaiting the contest. In on the Catamount Trail. This is a tough
features works largely from 1 900 to
December, she was already testing new course designed for experienced skiers
1950 and includes many paintings of
recipes. The Irish-blooded Geoghegan in good physical condition. Skiers can
Vermont by artists with strong Vermont
said she balked at the mention of a enter either a timed course or an untimed
connections. "An impressionist style was
chili contest, thinking her background touring category. Entry fee includes a
extremely popular with artists through­
wouldn't help her in a Tex-Mex-themed post-race banquet, raffle, awards and
out America in the first half of the 20th
competition. But she improvised a the Catamount Trail Association Guide­
century," says collections curator Jamie
lamb and Guinness chili, winning her book. $50 for Catamount Trail Associa­
Franklin, "and Vermont artists, or artists
category and drawing droves to her tion members, $60 for nonmembers.
depicting Vermont scenes, were no
restaurant. "People came in wanting the All-day event. [phone].
exception to this popular trend."
chili," she says. "I didn't even have a
Artists whose work is displayed in­
recipe." This year, Geoghegan is going March 1 9 -2 8 and
clude Clifford A. Bayard, Wallace Weir
to try to recreate the lamb chili, plus
Fahnestock, Lorenzo FJatch, Louis Aston
April 9-1 1
she's testing pork and other types. Live
Knight and Arthur Wilder. 1 0 a.m. to 5
music and more free treats drew 1,500
p.m., closed Wednesdays. $9 adult, $8 Green Mountain Film Festival
people last year, so get in on the fun.
for s©niors ond studsnts under 1 8. (802) Various locations, Montpelier
2 to 4 p.m. Nominal chili-tasting fee to
447-1571. and St. Johnsbury
be determined, other events free. (802)
388-4126. The Green Mountain Film Festival is
Feb. 27
expanding from Montpelier for the first
March 2-3
Middlebury Winter Carnival & time, setting up a satellite location in St.
Chili Contest Masters of the Fiddle Johnsbury. In conjunction with Cata­
Downtown Middlebury Chandler Music Hall, Randolph mount Arts, many of the films shown
March 19-28 in Montpelier will be
What better way to warm up in Febru­ Husband-and-wife duo Natalie Mac- shown April 9-1 1 in St. Johnsbury at
ary than with a steaming bowl of chili? Master and Donnell Leahy are known Catamount Arts and two other locations.
How about many bowls of chili? From for unbelievably fast, precise fiddling Additionally, Catamount Arts will feature
chicken to venison, Middlebury-area and high-zest step dancing, as well as a high school filmmakers showcase.
VERMONT LIFE
Donald Rae, executive director of Focus March 30
on Film, said in a release: "This new col­
Zakir Hussain & Masters of
laboration with Catamount Arts enables
Percussion
us to reach an even broader audience,
Flynn Center, Burlington
while retaining the intimate scale and
friendly atmosphere that is so much a
Mumbai-born percussionist Zakir Hus­
part of the festival."
sain began touring at age 12. Now
Independent, international and
approaching 60, he has evolved from
documentary films dominate the festi­
a child prodigy to a master musician,
val, including "Conversations With My
along the way collaborating with such
Gardener," a drama about a painter
stars as George Harrison, Bela Fleck,
who returns to his roots and renews a
John McLaughlin and the Grateful
forgotten friendship; "La Danse," Fred­
Dead's Mickey Hart. The New York
erick Wiseman's documentary about the
Times said the "blur of his fingers rivals
Paris Opera Ballet; and "The Necessities
the beat of a hummingbird's wings."
of Life," a nominee for best picture at
7:30 p.m. $27-$44. [phone].
Canada's Genie awards.
For schedule, ticketing information, April 9
locales and more, visit www.greenmoun-
tainfilmfestival.org. [phone]. Pacifica Quartet
Chandler Music Hall, Randolph
March 26-28
Winner of the 2009 Grammy Award for
Vermont Maple best chamber music performance, the
Pacifica Quartet are at the leading edge
Open House Weekend
of their craft, and for the 2009-201 0
Statewide
season, they are the quartet-in-residence
at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in
The beautiful spring sugaring scene —
New York. "They play with stupendous,
long, blue sap lines hitched from tree
breathtaking virtuosity," said a review
to tree, steam rising from chimneys,
in the Sunday Times of London. The
men and women working in the snow
Pittsburgh Post-Gazette called their
— never loses its magic. Maple Open
performance "luscious, edge-of-your-seat
House Weekend affords you the chance
music making." 7:30 p.m. $30 and less.
to learn all about sugaring and watch
[phone].
syrup being made. Activities vary from
sugarhouse to sugarhouse, but often
April 22
include demonstrations and a chance
to taste the goodness. Get a glimpse of Patty Larkin and Chris Smither
the way Vermont produces more than
Higher Ground, South Burlington
900,000 gallons of syrup each year.
Visiting is free. For a list of participating Calling Patty Larkin a singer-songwriter is
sugarmakers and directions, visit www. too simple. On her latest release "Watch
vermontmaple.org. [phone]. the Sky," industry guide allmusic.com
This Season
says Larkin went into the studio alone
and "produced, wrote, sang and played
every note herself" on about a dozen
instruments, including guitars, keyboards
and drum machines. Larkin will be joined
in concert by veteran folk and blues
artist Chris Smither, whose latest album
is "Time Stands Still." 8 p.m. $20 in
advance, $22 day of show.
[phone].
April 25
The Wailin' Jennys
Landmark College, Putney
You may have heard The \A/ailin' Jennys
on "A Prairie Home Companion," where
they are often featured. The Juno Award­
winning trio are like a softened, sweet­
ened version of the Dixie Chicks — three
accomplished bluegrass and traditional
musicians who also sing with beauti­
ful harmonies. Nicky Mehta (guitar,
harmonica, ukulele, percussion), Ruth
Moody (guitar, accordion, bodhran,
banjo) and Heather Masse (bass) are
celebrating the release of their latest
album, "Live at the Mauch Chunk Opera
Ord Annual Catamount Trail Challenge ^ House." 7:30 p.m. $1 8 in advance,
$20 at the door. [phone].
'^Trapp Family Lodge to Bolton Valley Nordic Center
* Dackcountiy Race and Tour
Sunday, March 14,2010
* • I f I f M i
Beneht the Catamount Trail Association
0 Route: Trapp Family Touring Center to Bolton Valley Nordic Center
0 Distence: 17km with a 2420 ft. vertical climb and a 1200 ft. vertical desc^
0 Event Options: Mass start race or leisurely group tour
0 Course: 70% ungroomed backcountry, 30% groomed ^Aay 7
0 Post Race Activities: Banquet, raffle and awards for all participants
African Children's Choir
Register at: www.CatamountTrail.org
Flynn Center, Burlington
or call 802-864-5794
Comprised of orphaned children from
Trppppbmili) Cod^e
A Mi WTAn>Rm«t r«rNt UuriAH Ikaiitii 'n across Africa, this choir has performed
with many music stars, such as Josh
VERMONT ^B o |to n Valley
FlFISCHfR lACOBS GROUP Groban, and has appeared on the hit TV
series "American Idol." Numerous songs
VERMONT LIFE