Vermont life. Vol. 61, Iss. 4

2007·120.9 MB·English

by  Vermont Department of Tourism and Marketing

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Summer 2007
V è r m o n t L i fe ^
Volume LXI Number 4
F E A T U R ES
The Ti Lives On
30
At 100 Years Old, It's Still Vezmont's Favorite Boat,
A Link to Lake Champlain's Steamboat Era
By Mark Bushnell
The Stars of Stellafane
36
America's Favorite Gathering of Amateur Astronomers Happens
Every Summer on a Vermont Hillside
By Chris Granstrom,- photographed by Jon Olender
Summer in Motion 42
A Scenic Portfolio by Vermont Life Contributing Photographers
Cedar Oil Man 50
Distilling the Essence of the Northeast Kingdom
By Steven G. Herbert; photographed by Alden Pellett
Saving Pine Hill Park 54
Rutland Embraces an Overlooked Recreational Treasure
By Yvonne Daley; photographed by Vyto Starinskas
Wildflowering
58
Ten Places to See Vermont's Best Blooms
Written and Photographed by Kate Carter
D E P A R T M E N TS
INSIDE Vermont Life 2
LETTERS TO THE EDITOR 3
GREEN MOUNTAIN POST BOY 4
ON THE WEB @ VERMONTLIFE.COM 6
VERMONT VIEW: In Love with the Big Lake 9
THE ARTS: Vermont Festival of the Arts 14
Places in This Issue
DEEP DISH: The Tastes of Summer 18
LANDMARKS: SolarFest 26
^Newport, p. 74
0, IN A DAY: Perennial Pleasures Nursery 66 jAlbany, p. '50
TABLE TALK: Hemingway's 70 Wilson, p. 96 jHardwick, p. 66
Shelbume, p. » ^ ' Sf; IcSinshury, p. 74
INNS & OUTINGS: Keys to the Kingdom 74
Ferrisburgh, pf9 ^
TREKS: Short Hikes, Big Rewards 76 Waitslield, (3, 14
?
Salisbury, cover
CALENDAR OF SUMMER EVENTS 78
Killington, p. 70
Rutland, p. 54
J
^I^B^À PICTURE POSTSCRIPT 96 Tmmoiith, p. 26 '.Springfield, p. 36
Cover: Lake Dunmore from Rattlesnake Point in Salisbury. ' Brookline, p. 5
^ ^S^H^B Photograph by Caleb Kenna. • To order a print of this pliotograpli. see page 2.
D E " V & r m o n t L i fe I
M A G A Z I NE
Is piihlislii'il quarterly by tiic State o/'Ver.mo.nt
^aJ•e^^ell a nd W e l c o me
James H. Douglas, Governor
H Kevin L. Dorn, Secretary, Agency of Commerce
and Community Development
undreds of friends, colleagues and dignitaries honored former Ver-
Bruce J. Hyde, Commissioner,
mont Life Editor Tom Slayton at a retirement reception in February. Department of Tourism & Marketing
They gathered to thank him for his editorial accomplishments and
Publisher: Tom Kelly
more than two decades of dedicated service telling Vermont's story.
Managing Editor: John Lazenby
The event at Montpelier's Capitol Plaza Hotel included Governor Jim Art Director: Jan Lowry Hubbard
Production Manager: David J. Goodman
Douglas and followed by a day the Vermont legislature's adoption of a resolu-
Editorial Assistants: Jessica Turner,
tion honoring Slayton. He has been named editor emeritus and so will stay Lise Markus
Business Manager: Julie George
connected with Vermont Life. His name will remain on our masthead and
Marketing Manager: Maude Chater
he will continue writing for us from time to time, oversee special projects Publishing Assistant: Marilyn Wood
and remain on call for advice. Ancillary Products Manager: Samara Fitzgerald
Assistant to the Accountant: Tammy Duprey
Although we bid Tom farewell, in this issue Shipping Manager: Joe Rossi
we welcome our readers to the many pleasures Proofreader: Jim Wallace
Vermont Life Advisory Board:
of a Vermont summer. Pennie Beach, Paul Bruhn, Laura Carlsmith,
Our new food columnist, Marialisa Calta, Jack Crovi-l, Katheran L. Fisher, Hope Green,
James Lawrence, Steven Wood, Brian Haru'ood
offers a guide to Vermont's rich summer food
scene, from its many farmers' markets (growing Editor Emeritus: Tom Slayton
in number and gaining in popularity) to top res-
Advertising Sales Office
taurants that feature the best Vermont growers Smart Communication, Inc.,
P.O. Box 283, Vergennes, VT 05491-0283.
have to offer and a list of some of the best places Tel. [phone], fax [phone]
E-mail: [email protected]
to sample summer's sweet treats, from barbecue
Advertising Director and Northern Vermont &:
to maple creemees.
National Sales: Gerianne Smart
Elsewhere in the issue, we offer ideas for Advertising Sales, Central Southern Vermont:
Editor Tom Slayton H. Abby Hummel
excursions such as SolarFest, an annual event
and his ivife, Elizabeth, Newsstand Coordinator: Howard White
on a Tinmouth farm that celebrates alternative
at Slayton's retirement & Associates
energy technologies; the Mad River Valley's an-
reception.
nual Vermont Festival of the ArtS; and 10 great Single Issue: $4.95
One-Year Subscription Rates: $15.95 in U.S.A.,
places to see wildflowers. You can also stretch your legs by trying our tips $22.95 Canada & Foreign Delivery
for five short hikes, each with a big reward at the end of the trail. For Subscription Inquiries Please Call Toll Free:
[phone] or Email: [email protected]
We celebrate Vermont traditions in this issue with stories about the
Northeast Kingdom's John Gile, who carries on a 100-year-old method of Vermont Life Magazine (ISSN 0042-417X) is publistied
quarterly in February, May, August and November.
distilling the oil from cedar boughs; the century-old Lake Champlain steamer Editorial and business offices are at 6 Baldwin St.,
Montpelier, VT 05602, tel. [phone]L
Ticonderoga at Shelburne Museum; and Stellafane, the gathering of amateur
Editorial comments or questions: [email protected]
astronomers on a hilltop in Springfield every summer that has become one Web site: www.VermontLife.com
Cliange of address must be received eight weeks prior to
of the nation's favorite stargazing events.
publication to ensure continuous delivery of magazine.
In Vermont, summer is short but it's sweet. We hope you can get out and Please include your old address as well as your new
address. Periodicals postage paid at Montpelier, VT, and
enjoy it and we know our Summer issue will enhance the experience. additional mailing offices. POSTM ASTEI?: Send form
#3579 to Vermont Life, 6 Baldwin St., Montpelier, VT.
©Copyright 2007 bv Vermont Life magazine. Printed in
the U.S.A. by The Lane Press.
Privacy Notice: Subscribers, to have your name excluded
o from use by third parties, call [phone].
The editors of Vermont Life will review any submissions;
Tom Kelly however no responsibility is assumed by the State
of Vermont or Vermont Life for loss or damage to
Publisher
materials submitted. Return postage mu.st accompany all
Email: [email protected] manuscripts, drawings and photographs if they are to
be returned. All rights are reserved. No part of Vermont
Life may be reproduced without permission of the editon
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Vermont Life Posters & Prints United States Patent and Trademark Office.
We select images from each issue to offer as fine posters and prints.
To place an order, call toll free [phone] www.VermontLife.com
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z.
Thanks to Tom Slayton
There are some things in this Hfe that S O
have to change, but we don't have to
hlce it! Tom Slayton's farewell [Spring
2007] is one of those. I've been a Ver-
mont Life subscriber for 20 years or
more, and a summer camp dweller since
the days before Interstate 91 threaded
itself all the way to Derby. Despite our
limited time up north, Vermont is home,
and our connections there run strong
among families and friends. Though
I've never met Tom, I can say without
doubt that I share his affinity for the
state that he has so clearly articulated
through his writing.
I'm in Vermont often, but it's not
nearly enough to suit my appetite. For- !
tunately, Vermont Life has been there
to help satisfy the hunger pains. Thank
you, Tom. You've made many of us in
the Vermont crowd happy.
Tim Votapka
Centerport, New York (and Derby)
Lines About Cover Lines Fusion bands and rings in 18kt white and yellow gold.
It was Ben Franklin who said, "Be
not the first by whom the new is tried,
nor the last to lay the old aside," and An outward celebration
I'm a great believer in Ben's wisdom.
But besmirching the beautiful cover of
of
Vermont Life [Spring 2007] with a guide
to its contents is a regressive step, in
every woman's inner beauty.
my opinion!
Miriam Herwig
Randolph Center
We work very hard on each issue and
we decided that we wanted subscribers
and potential readers who see the mag-
azine on newsstands or on their coffee
tables at home to know at a glance the
main stories that are in each issue. Our
goal, as always, is to communicate in a
strong, tasteful way. — Editor
The Music Issue
I congratulate Vermont Life on its
Spring 2007 edition, "Discover Vermont
Music!" Our state is ahve with music of
all kinds and for all tastes and Vermont
Life does us all a great service by draw-
ing attention to the riches that exist.
Indeed there is so much to choose
from that your coverage seems to have
800-84 T-8820 Pure Romance,
almost completely missed what is going
on in Manchester. Manchester Music
Festival is a year-round organization in
its 33rd year of bringing quality chamber
Burlington, Springfield & Stratton, VT, Hanover, NH -VonBargens.com
music to the community. Our sum-
(Continued on page 17)
Green Mountain Postboy
'indinq Vermont in
News and iNlotes from Around the State
Afghanistan and Irac
T
wo homegrown efforts will bring
A New Role for the a taste of Vermont to U.S. soldiers
Baron von Trapp serving in the Middle East.
Vermont soldiers in Iraq and Afghani-
stan will receive copies of the Vermont
A long-lost chapter in the storied Life book Finding Vermont thanks to
von Trapp family's history has come to Linda Caruso of Barnard, the Vermont
light, thanks to the persistence of Eliza- National Guard
beth Campbell, a granddaughter of and the American
Baron Georg von Trapp. Red Cross.
The singing family of 10 children is famed Caruso received a
for its escape from Hitler's Austria in 1938, copy of the book as
a tale that spavined the stage production a thank-you gift at
a Red Cross blood
and film The Sound of Music and popu-
drive sponsored
larized the family's successful lodge in
Baron Georg von Trapp
by Vermont Life last
Stov^e. The movie,
winter and thought it would make a
seen by millions, portrayed the baron as a cold aristocrat, but
beautiful reminder of home for Vermont
Campbell's new translation from German of her grandfather's
soldiers. The American Red Cross
memoir. To the Last Salute, Memories of an Austrian U-Boat
agreed. Now donors who give blood
Commander, paints a portrait of a warm, wry and engaging
at Vermont Life-sponsored blood drives
man who was a World War I Austrian naval hero.
con donate their copy of Finding Ver-
Campbell translated the book, published in 1935 and long 6EDR6V0nTEIIPF mont Donors can include their name,
out of print, with careful and eager help from two of the baron's TOTHEmSTSmUTE address and a personal message in
children, Agathe, 94, and Maria, 91. It is a gripping tale of the book. The Red Cross and the Ver-
early submarine warfare and von Tropp's ambivalence about mont National Guard will take care of
the terrible toll war took on his men and the opposing side. distribution. For dotes of the Vermont
"I really felt like I was discovering a part of my family that I never knew," Red Cross blood drives see Through
said Campbell, who lives in Massachusetts. Most important to her and her nearly the Season in our Calendar of Events
100 cousins, the memoir clarifies what their grandfather, who died in Vermont in on page 85. For more information,
1947, was like. [phone], ext. 3649. www.new
To the Last Salute (University of Nebraska Press) is available at bookstores, at englandblood.org/vermont/soldier.htm.
the Trapp Family Lodge gift shop or at www.tothelastsalute.com or www.trapp Meanwhile, the Vermont Sugar
familylodge.com. Makers Association's Operation
— Andrew Nemethy Vermont Maple Sweetness is
attempting to make sure every U.S.
military base in Iraq and Afghanistan
Organic farms
receives some Vermont maple syrup.
Going Green in Vermont
Last year 800 gallons of syrup were
in 1993: nn
donated; this year's goal
" 19
For Burlington residents, it's easy being
was 1,000 gallons. To
green. Country Home magazine named
contribute to next
Vermont's largest city America's most Organic farms
year's effort, check the
eco'friendly place. Among other things, the in Vermont in Vermont Sugar Makers
magazine cited Burlington's composting facility 2006: 394A Association's Web site,
in the Intervale, which collects everything
www.vermontmaple.org,
from food wastes to lawn clippings and
in February of 2008.
leaves and turns it into usable
Source: — Lise Markus
garden nutrients. Vermont Agency
of Agriculture
Lynx :
They're Out There
W
ildlife experts and woodsmen
have long assumed that the
Canada lynx was a resident of
Vermont. But they didn't know for sure,
because no lynx had been seen here for
nearly 40 years. The last sighting was
in 1968.
But this past winter, in the remote north-
eastern town of Victory, wildlife biologists
found lynx tracks.
The lynx is a long-legged cousin of the
more common bobcat. Lynx are much
rarer and more reclusive. They have
tufted ears, a facial ruff and large tufts T
he spectacle of a Victorian steamboat on Otter Creek might be difficult to
of hair on their feet — which helps them
imagine, but for four nostalgic days in July, launches from throughout New
navigate deep snow. Paul Hamelin, a
England will cruise the historic seven-mile steamer route between Lake Cham-
Vermont wildlife biologist, confirmed the
plain and Vergennes in the annual Otter Creek steam-launch meet.
tracks, which he and a New Hampshire
field biologist found near bobcat tracks, Participants trailer their craft to Otter Creek, pitch in on a truckload of dry
thus making confirmation of the lynx hardwood for fuel and ready their boats. Most cruise in small groups or solo,
tracks easier. according to Betty Crosby, who has organized the yearly meet since the late
"We can't expect the Canada lynx to 1990s. Many of the launches are classic 19th century designs, some open and
be abundant in Vermont because the | some canopied, with elegant copper and brass fittings, barrel-staved boiler jack-
amount of suitable habitat is very limited," 1 ets and glassed gauges. Except for the gentle rhythm of the vacuum and water
Hamelin said. i
pumps, they're virtually silent. Their distinctive steam whistles, blown regularly
Lynx are protected under Vermont low.
to clear condensation, are often the first hint of their approach.
The 2007 Otter Creek steam-launch meet will be held July 26-29. Launches
in the Otter's historic basin can be viewed from public parks near the falls in
Vergennes. To see steamboats on the river, including the Saturday morning
parade, turn west from Route 22A south of the bridge in Vergennes onto Panton
Road, then north on Basin Harbor Road to an ample roadside pull-off on the
Otter's south bank near the Dead Creek bridge.
— Tom Henry
Lynx on patrol.
VERMONTIANA
The school that Thunderbolt built.
Thunderbolts Round
along the border between Scotland and
T
he round brick schoolhouse in the , îg. England and shared his spoils with the
Windham County town of Brookline ' ,1 poor. Along the way, he amassed enough
is an unusual building with a most booty to make his way to America. He
unusual past. It is Vermont's only round moved to the mountain hamlet of Brookline
schoolhouse, but even more unusual was ^ j| to hide out.
Dr. John Wilson, the man who built it in _ After his identity was posthumously es-
1822. tablished, it was said that the schoolhouse
An air of mystery surrounded Wilson after his death in 1847 did the truth about was round so that Thunderbolt, the school-
from the time he arrived in Brookline. He his identity come to light. master, could peer out the encircling win-
walked with a limp, spoke with a British He turned out to be "Captain Thun- dows and see who might be approaching
accent and always wore either a scarf or derbolt," a notorious highwayman who, from any direction.
a high collar, concealing his neck. Only legend had it, robbed from the wealthy
(Continued on page 6]
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(Continued from page 5)
His high collars concealed a neck that
had been deeply scarred, possibly by a
rope. He limped because of injuries to
his legs and feet. Several of his intriguing
possessions — a false heel that reduced
his limp, a daguerreotype portrait and his
walking cane, in which a sword was hid-
den, are on display at the Brooks Library
in Brattleboro.
Brookline's major legacy from Thunder-
The Ti Lives On! Check out historic photos of the steamer Ticonderoga and o bolt is the remarkable little brick school-
Vermont Life article from 1950 about efforts to save the majestic boat (page 30). house. In recent years it became rundown
and its roof developed leaks, but now
Cedar Oil at Wori<: From perfumes to cold remedies, learn about the many
uses of cedar oil and see more photos of John Giles rare craft (page 50). efforts by the Vermont Division for Historic
Preservation, the Preservation Trust of Ver-
Stellafane Archives: Amateur telescope makers have been flocking to
mont and local residents have raised more
Springfield's annual astronomy gathering for decades (page 36). Read about
than $50,000 to re-roof and restore the
the origins of the event in a 1956 Vermont Life
old building.
article. These and many other Interesting
According to Cynthia Nau, co-chair of
items and links can be found at
\ KK.mo.NT • 50 Years Ago in the Brookline Historical Commission, the
www.VermontLife.com. Look also for the
Vermont Life: Meet the
hope is to have the building, now closed
cast of characters at that FOR MORE labels throughout this issue.
much of the time, open more often.
great tradition, Old Home
Local children ore already at work on
Days.
a history of the town that will include the
• Fruit Cobbler Delight: Morialisa Calta's food column unique round schoolhouse and its unusual
covers the culinary delights of summer (page 18). We give founder — Captain Thunderbolt!
you her recipe for fruit cobbler.
— Tom Slayton