........îîf Bellows Falls The Amtrak® Brattleboro take off on Springfield Vermonter has your own Hartford. been such a New Haven to explore. Stamford success that Philadelphia Poke around Wilmin^on now you can in antique Baltimore take in every - Washington D.C. shops. Or rustic barn and take advan scenic hill in tage of the Vermont along two Amtrak state’s beautiful hiking and routes. On Amtrak’s Ethan biking trails. So no matter Allen service you’ll have why you come to Vermont, a relaxing ride all the way Amtrak gives you one more to Rutland. And car rentals reason to take the train. For are now available in most reservations, call your travel stations, so when you arrive, you can agent or Amtrak at 1-800-USA-RAIL. A m t r a k ^ Circle Reader Service Number 210 Summer 1998 Volume Ln Number 4 \^rmontLife f [ A I H E S Places in this Issue Farming the Intervale ; Burlington’s blossoming urban garden Burlington, p. 34 By Carol Maurer * Peacham, p./4 Photographed by Natalie Stultz Ferrisburgh, p. 46 i * • Bristol, p. 26 Hancock, p. 8 Randolph, p. 112 Where Conservation • Strafford, p. 70 Was Born : Woodstock’s new page 34 * Woodstock, p. 40 Marsh-Billings National Historical Park Ludlow, p. 83 * By Marialisa Calta; photographed by Jon Gilbert Fox I MIDDL8IURY COLLm A Lakely Story : Told in depth at the Searsburg, p. 68 Lake Champlain Maritime Museum m 1 4 1998 ' Guilford, p. 50 By Maria Blackburn; photographed by Kindra Clineff LIBRARY Timber -Framed : And well-connected in the community By Susan Keese,- photographed by S. Michael Bisceglie A Summer Riddle : What is that special something!- A scenic portfolio by contributing photographers A Real Country Store : Is more than just a store in the country By Jack McKnight; photographed by Richard Howard Meet Justin Morrill : The courtly Strafford storekeeper who changed America By Chris Bohjalian Photographed by Jon Gilbert Fox page 62 D E P A R T M E N T S Inside Vermont Life 66 Vermont Scene : A wind-wind situation Letters to the Editor 63 Inns St Outings : Gad, zukes! Green Mountain Post Boy 69 Vermont Foods : A full platter of pasta 0 Made in Vermont : Bird carver Floyd Scholz 94 Landmarks : Burlington discovers jazz 14 In A Day : The ghosts of Peacham 99 Books of Vermont Interest 26 Vermont View : Reading the Calendar of Summer Events mountains of home 112 Picture Postscript Cover : Strafford's simple yet elegant Town House, built in 1799, presides over a summer day. Photograph by Kindra Clineff. Meet Strafford’s most famous citizen, page 70. , page 8 \^rmoiitDfe N S D E MAGAZINE Is published quarterly by the State of Vermont Howard Dean, Governor Published at Montpelier, Vermont, by the Agency of Commerce and Community Development William C. Shouldice IV, Secretary A Summer Thomas Altemus, Commissioner, Department of Tourism & Marketing Mix Jackie Ennis, Director of Sales & Marketing Editor: Tom Slayton Managing Editor: Linda Dean Paradee Assistant Editor: John Lazenby Art Director: Jan Lowry Hubbard Assistant to the Editors: Judy Powell T Proofreader: Helen Benedict oday 's Vermont is an interesting mix of the old Director of Operations: Andrew Jackson and the new. And sometimes the newest aspects Business Manager: C. Fred Sullivan of this amazing little state turn out to be expres Accountant: Julie George Ancillary Products Manager: Marilyn Wood sions of its oldest values and traditions. Those Subscriptions Manager: Brenda Greika are the moments that reassure me that, despite changes, Advertising Traffic Manager: Maude Chater Vermont remains its own unique place. Assistant to the Accountant: Tammy Duprey Shipping Manager: Joe Rossi Take the new Marsh-Billings National Historical Park Vermont Life Advisory Board: (page 40), opening this summer in Woodstock. It's new Pennie Beach, William S. Blair, Paul Bruhn, Laura — except that it's based on a very old Vermont idea: Carlsmith, Robert Getchell, Hope Green, James stewardship — taking care of the land. The more con Lawrence, Emerson Lynn, Gerald R. Tarrant, Timothy Volk, and J. Duncan Campbell (emeritus) temporary term for that is conservation or environmen talism, and the land where the new national park will be Advertising Sales Office Smart Communication, Inc., located was the home of George Perkins Marsh, whose at Kennedy Brothers Marketplace, P.O. Box 283, Vergennes, VT 05491-0283. book Man and Nature founded the national environ Tel. (802) 877-2262, fax (802) 877-2949 mental movement more than a century ago. Frederick E-mail: [email protected] Billings and Laurance and Mary Rockefeller, who fol Advertising Director: Gerianne Smart Southern Vermont and lowed Marsh in living at the Woodstock farm/mansion, Southern Adirondacks - Lake George and continued his vision of stewardship. And that's the Saratoga, NY Regions: H. Abby Hummel theme of the new park itself. Northern Vermont and Adirondacks: Gerianne Smart You'll find a lot of Vermont tradition in this issue of Advertising Sales Assistant: Nancy Lindberg Vermont Life. We visit the Justin Morrill homestead in Intern: April Marble, Vergennes Union H.S. '99 Strafford (page 70) and the Lake Champlain Maritime Museum (page 46). And though the Maritime Museum is one of Vermont's newest, it, too, carefully expresses Ver Single Issue: $3.95 mont's past — in this case, the long maritime history of One-Year Subscription Rates: $20.00 in U.S.A., the Lake Champlain basin. For another connection to $25.00 Foreign Delivery Vermont history, listen to the ghosts of Peacham (page For Subscription Inquiries Please Call Toll Free: (800) 284-3243 14). One of the most encouraging new developments in Vermont Life Magazine (ISSN 0042-417X) is published four Burlington is the growth of gardening and farming in the times a year with editorial, business and subscription offices at 6 Baldwin St., Montpelier, VT 05602, tel. (802) 828-3241. Winooski River Intervale (page 34), within the city's lim E-mail: [email protected] its. Yet when we look back some 200 years, we find that Internet address: http://www.vtlife.com Change of address must be received eight weeks prior to the Intervale was regarded as prime farmland by none publication to insure continuous delivery of magazine. other than Ethan Allen, Vermont's first and greatest Please include your old address as well as your new ad dress. Periodicals postage paid at Montpelier, VT, and addi hero! And before that, it was farmed by Native Ameri tional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send form #3579 to cans. Today Vermonters are rediscovering the Intervale Vermont Life, 6 Baldwin St., Montpelier, VT. © Copyright 1998 by Vermont Life Magazine. Printed bv The Lane Press, as a fine place to grow vegetables, make compost, and South Burlington, VT. Published May 19,1998. pursue a dozen new small-scale enterprises. The editors of Vermont Life will review any submissions; I expect George Perkins Marsh himself would be however no responsibility is assumed by the State of Ver mont or Vermont Life for loss or damage to materials sub pleased. mitted. Return postage must accompany all manuscripts, drawings and photographs, if they are to be returned. All rights are reser\'ed. No part of Vermont Life may be repro duced without permission of the editor. Vermont Life’^” is a trademark registered with the United States Patent and EDITOR Trademark Office. Member: International Regional I i m Printed in Magazine Association U.S.A. VERMONT LIFE -The Termont Gountr; Store*- "The centerpiece of Weston is the justly famed Vermont Country Store." Vermont Life. Rochester We’ve Been Part of Vermont Life Since 1946 Many thanks to you and M. Dickey In 1946 my father. Vrest Orton, along with Earle Newton. Drysdale for his perceptive article Walter Hard Sr. and Arthur Wallace Peach, started work on a [Spring 1998] on Rochester, one of Ver new magazine that would capture the beauty and spirit of the mont's secret treasure towns, and es state. They named this new venture. Vermont Life. For over 50 pecially for his appreciative words for years now. Vermont Life has been a splendid success. Quarry Hill Community. If it is true, We at The Vermont Country Store are proud of our connections with Vermont Life, which has for all these years as Mr. Drysdale kindly states, that promoted the values of the citizens of our state while depict "talent and energy from Quarry Hill ing its incredible natural beauty. have seeped into the valley," it seems Lyman Orton to me that tolerance and much wis dom have also risen, like maple sap in springtime, from Rochester to Quarry Hill over the last 52 years. Thank you. Ladybelle Fiske Quarry Hill Community Rochester Ladybelle Fiske is the daughter of Quarry Hill founders Irving and Barbara Fiske. — Editor Cover Cows 'T find that if it’s not in The Vermont Country Store, you can do without it'.' Last year we had a failure occur San Francisco, California. when that New Hampshire church sneaked undetected into the Fall issue. A Visit You’ll Long Remember Then we had the Winter issue barn The Vermont Country Store is known in all 50 states through the Voice of the (pages 62-63), off by one town. Now Mountains mail order catalog. We have two stores: the original store is located in the picturesque village of Weston. Our second store with the popular bargain attic is that's an improvement! conveniently located right off 1-91 in Rockingham. At both stores you'll find products Now comes this year's Spring issue you thought had long disappeared such as penny candy. Vermont Common Crackers, and the cover photograph. Shouldn't and floursack towels, as well as many other useful and practical items. Interspersed the location be with the merchandise are hundreds of artifacts from the past - it's like shopping in a more specific, say museum. A visit you'll remember long after you get home. "located near East Montpelier Cen ter"? And, please, COME VISIT OCR STORES "the ladies in the foreground, 1. to r., Rt. 100 WESTON - Our Original Store. Sophie and Tiny, Also visit The Bryant House Restaurant hard at work for serving lunch daily at this location. Allen Butler." Open Year Around: 9-5pm Mon.-Sat. After all, they are what makes the Extended Hours; July-October 9-6pm picture! Closed Sundays LeRoy Carlson Middlesex Rt. 103 ROCKINGHAM Sophie, an Ayrshire, and Tiny, a feisey, Visit our catalog bargain attic. were indeed hard at work on the Butler family’s Perfect Maple Farm in East Mont Open Year Around: 9-5pm Mon.-Sat. pelier. Gary Butler, who works the farm Extended Hours: July-October 9-6pm with his father. Allen, tells us that since Sundays lO-Spm the picture was taken last year both cows have gone to the great pasture in the sky. MAIL ORDER CATALOG — Editor The Vermont Country Store® Ticklcnakcd in Rt/egate Dept. 2483 P.O. Box 128 1 was amused by the article in your Weston, Vermont 03161 spring issue entitled "Ripples at Aldrich's Pork Barrel." 1 like these odd CALL FOR FREE CATALOG names for ponds. However, 1 think I 1-802-362-2400 (Continued on page 24) Circle Reader Service Number 213 SUMMER 1998 G M R M O U N T A N Recognition for a Mill Girl The Return of Chester A. Arthur L ittle Addie Laird is fi factory loom, its bobbins commemorate the reform C nally going to be fa ranked behind her. laws that have kept thou hester A. Arthur, who wanted little or noth mous — sadly, ironi Although Addie Laird sands of other little girls ing to do with Ver cally famous. claimed to be 12 years old, like Addie from working mont while alive, is being Her picture will be on a other girls in the mill told their lives away in symbolically returned to postage stamp, an honor Lewis Hine that she was drudgery. the state of his birth. few Americans have re The Pownal Post Of A fine portrait of the 21st ceived. The only fice conducted a small President will soon be for problem is that, for ceremony in March mally hung in the down Addie, it comes 88 and installed a plaque stairs lobby of the Vermont years too late. remembering Addie State House, just across a In fact, nobody and child labor laws. hall from the other, much knows just who Addie School children in more famous Vermont Pres Laird was. In 1910, she the Pownal schools ident, Calvin Coolidge. The was photographed by studied the issue of Arthur portrait will either the great industrial child labor and be commissioned, or one photographer Lewis wrote essays about may be obtained from the Hine at her job in a | what it would be National Portrait Gallery. North Pownal cotton X like to have to work It's all a part of the restora mill. She was a young, | instead of attend tion that began 18 years ago pretty girl, but there is % ing school and hav and has transformed the in no smile on Addie ^ ing time to play terior of the build Laird's face. She wears a and be a child. ing into an his little smock covered by a actually only 10, and that's As for Addie Laird — ex toric showcase dirty, smudged apron; she the age she looks. She cept for nine's photograph (VL, Autumn is barefoot. Her haunting worked as a spinner, for a of her standing in front of 1996), returning eyes look directly at the few pennies a day. rows and rows of indus the dazzling camera, as if asking just About 12.5 million trial bobbins, looking di colors and or who it is that is stealing postage stamps bearing the rectly at the camera, not nate detail of its her childhood. Her hand image of this thin, serious smiling — little else is 19th century hey rests on the frame of the little girl will be printed to known. day to walls and floors. The Senate chamber is next, and although the legis Deer Leap lature has appropriated some money for the work, Peace and quiet were self in the bathroom. did not appear to be $325,000 is being raised by shattered last janu- A state Fish & Wildlife badly hurt. the Friends of the State ary when a young Department officer even Other than the broken House, a private organization deer smashed through a tually shooed the deer window, motel owner dedicated to the building. plate glass window at out of the building, and Dorothy DiCarlo said Contributions to help pay for the Shire Motel in down it bounded away. Al the main thing she has the Senate chamber, the first- town Woodstock, leaped though the deer, which had to deal with are the floor lobby, and other pro over a bed in which two may have been attracted jokes. Example: "Shire jects should be sent to: people slept, and some by a reflection in the Motel: We charge a Friends of the Vermont State how managed to lock it window, was bleeding, it buck a night!" House, 133 State Street, "BE OUTINA$EOONI>/" Montpelier, VT 05602. 4 • VERMONT LIFE VERMONTERS ie daily 1 5-minute est of how hard Ross has ^commute from his worked to reach his goals. tome in South London Among his objectives now: derry to Stratton Moun competing at the 2002 Winter tain School took Ross Games in Salt Lake City. Powers all the way to an ■ If you watched Olympic Olympic medal in snowboarding broadcasts last Nagano, Japan, last Feb winter, you might have spotted ruary. the Bennington Battle Flag in Powers, the first to go the crowd with members of George Peorlstein Is on through the school's four- the Shaw family, in Japan to a quest that few others might have year snowboarding pro see Betsy Shaw of Dorset com the stomino for: fle's trying to be gram, competed in the pete. Others with Vermont the first person to ascend to the first Olympics to include connections on the Olympic highest point in each of Vermont's snowboarding. In the team whose names we were 251 towns. So for, the retired indus pouring rain, two Ross Poivers defies unable to mention in our last trial engineer from Barre, 64, has days after his 1 9th gravity en route to issue: Ron Chiodi, snowboard climbed to the top of about 225. He birthday, he became an Olympic bronze ing for Stratton Mountain, and, plans his trips carefully, then sets off the first male U.S. medal. Left, Ross and in freestyle skiing, )im Moran, his mother, Nancy. early in the morning with altimeter, snowboarder to win Stowe, and Evan Dybvig, Tun compass, map and other hiking an Olympic medal bridge. gear, and often hos to bushwhack when he took third Although she had ■ In the 1998 Paralympics at place in the halfpipe to take time off work Nagano, Vermont native Sarah his way up hills and mountains that competition. to get a passport, Billmeier, an alpine skier who are so rarely climbed they com After welcome- packing was easy lost a leg to cancer as a child, pletely lack trails. He hopes to finish home celebrations in because Nike had continued her winning ways, the job this summer and autumn. southern Vermont, where Pow winter clothes waiting for her taking gold medals in downhill Odds are he will. George has already ers was born and raised, he put in Japan. And when it seemed and slalom, a silver in the su hiked the Long Trail along Vermont's his bronze medal in its blue she might miss the competition per C and a bronze in giant highest ridges from Massachusetts to velvet box in a Londonderry because of trouble getting to slalom. the Canadian border — seven bank so fans could examine it. the mountain, former ■ Bradford's main street is times, once in winter. Then he got back to training. Olympian Billy Kidd, a Ver neat and pleasant, and to Hard work seems to be the monter originally from Stowe, Travel & Leisure Magazine, it's operative word in the Powers helped arrange VIP transporta an absolute gem. Travel & because Bradford is willing to family. Ross's mother, Nancy tion. Leisure recently singled it out be itself. The magazine in Powers, has worked in food Through all the attention, as one of the 1 0 best main cluded Times Square and the services for 20 years at nearby Nancy Powers remains proud streets in America, apparently (Continued on page 6) Bromley Mountain ski area, where Ross first started snow F arev/ell to a S k iin g F a th e r boarding. For 10 years she never saw her son compete ickey Cochran, the affable leader of the ski area became a Vermont tradition and a legend because she worked during his skiing Cochran family of Richmond, died last that still hums along on weekends, introducing kids weekend races. When Ross, March 14 at 74. to skiing and training young racers. who rides for Stratton Moun His love for skiing and his fam Mickey Cochran (his name was tain resort's pro team and ily’s devotion to the sport sent all really Gordon but few people called Burlington's Burton Snow four of the Cochrans' children to him that) was a mechanical engi the Olympics and helped thousands $ neer by trade, and could often be boards, headed for Japan, of others — generations of young £ found overseeing the lifts at the ski Nancy knew she couldn't af Vermonters — learn to ski. | area. He had been a three-sport ford to go with him. When Mickey Cochran and his | athlete at the University of Ver But through a series of kind wife, Ginny, put up a small rope < mont, but he was also fascinated gestures that the Powers family tow on the slopes behind their | by ski technique, and a master at will never forget, Nancy was house near the Winooski River in » analyzing and explaining it. He there to see it ail. Without 1961, they did it to give their chil-1- coached local kids, worked with telling Ross, his coaches con dren a place to train for ski racing. the UVM ski team and served as a tacted Kentucky Fried Chicken But it wasn't long before their backyard became U.S. national team coach. and CBS, which were organiz the neighborhood ski area. The Cochrans’ chil “The idea,” said daughter Barbara Ann Cochran dren, Barbara Ann, Linda, Marilyn and Robert, [VL, Winter 1993), 1972 Olympic gold medalist in ing a chartered flight. Nancy went on to become greats in the ski world — na the slalom, “was always to concentrate on the skills had less than an hour to de tional champions and Olympians — and the little and let the results take care of themselves.” cide if she would be part of the group. SUMMER 1998 POSTBOY Continued from page 5 Las Vegas Strip as other admirable main streets, and said:"Bradford is so ordinary it's extraordinary ... This is the genuine article: bedrock, small town Main Street." ■ After 2M-year-old Justin Thomas died suddenly of meningitis, his family de cided something positive would come of the tragedy. So Roy and Michelle Thomas set out to raise money to equip a Rutland city park with new play ground facilities. With the help of friends and local businesses, they raised $30,000 in donations and were to in stall the new equipment in Madison Street Park this spring. Retire to Wake Robin where you will thrive on cultural opportunities, intellectual challenges and new friends. Put down roots on a scenic 137 The 201st Bondville Fair acre wooded site overlooking Lake Champlain. Enjoy the freedom to W pursue your special interests while you hen the 1998 Bondville Fair ar experience the peace of mind of rives this August 28-30, it will on-site long-term health care. mark the continuation of an Discover Wake Robin - a amazing run: The first Bondville Fair beautiful place to grow. was held more than 200 years ago! Vermont's Only Life Care What must be among the longest h'or information about our I- and 2-hedroom Retirement Community apartnwntx and cottaf;es, call 1-HQ0-462-0H56. running rural fairs in the country was 200 Wake Robin Dr., Shelburne , VT 05482 first held in 1797 in the hills of the Circle Reader Service Number 193 town of Winhall, just east of Manches ter. Over the years, the fair has seen the Introduci^ Timberpeg's full spectrum of events, from horse races and vegetable judging to girlie shows. It has expanded, too,- Floral FFall BARN SERIES. was built in the 1920s, the Dance/Craft Hall in the 1930s, a new pole barn in 1996 and a sugarhouse in 1997. Simple elegance for the way Among events the 1998 fair is likely to feature: ox pulling, a pet show, you've always wanted to live. quilts, fiddlers, square dancers, farm animals and a midway. This year's That's the feeling of a Timberpeg schedule: Friday, noon-10 p.m.; Satur barn home, created with all the day, 10 a.m.-lO p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m.- attention to detail and design for 5 p.m. Info: (802)297-1882. which Timberpeg is famous. You could be living the way Great While It Lasted you've always wanted to live, sooner than you think. To Vermonters, Lake Champlain To find out more call or write has always been a great lake. That's for our $15 design portfolio. why most were surprised when legisla MasterCard™ or VISA™ accepted. tion that officially designated Cham plain one of the Great Lakes caused such a ruckus out in the Midwest. TIMBERPEG' ^ Barn .Seric.s It all began when Vermont's U.S. Sen. Patrick Leahy inserted a single The .Artisans of Post Beam. line defining Champlain as a Great Box 1500, VL12, Lake into a bill funding the U.S. Sea Claremont, NH 03743 (603) 542-7762 Grant program. Leahy's aim was to make Vermont organizations eligible www.timberpeg.com for federal research money. But the move sent several Midwest- 6 • VERMONT LIFE ern congressmen into orbit. They protested loudly that Lake Champlain was just too small to he Great. The smallest of the Great Lakes is Lake Ontario, with 7,430 square miles of water. Lake Champlain covers only 490 square miles. "If Lake Champlain ends up as a Great Lake, I propose we rename it Lake Plain Sham," declared Rep. Steve LaTourette, R-Ohio. After two weeks of outraged howls from the Midwest, Congress approved a compromise: Vermont would still he eligible for the research money, but Lake Champlain would relinquish its short-lived moment of Greatness. That seemed to suit everyone. At press time, Lake Champlain was, once again, only a very, very GOOD lake. A B&B of Your Own E ver want a Vermont hed & break fast? No, not just a stay at one, hut the whole thing — the huild- ing, the business, the beds, the break fasts, the guests? Now is your chance. In a contest sponsored by Polaner All Fruit spreads, the prize is the MacAuley House Bed & Breakfast in the southwestern Ver mont town of Arlington — the whole place. To enter, complete in 50 words or less the phrase: "Breakfast with Polaner All Fruit is better because ..." Entries due by August 1. For complete information, call 1-800-544-5680. After the initial judging, four final ists will square off at the inn over one weekend to demonstrate why they are the best qualified to win the whole B&B. Dueling French toast? <i> U P D A T E S ^ If you have a computer and want to visit rural Vermont without leaving your home, try a cyber visit to www.ruralvermont.com. It received the 1997 Best of the Web award for Best Community Web Site. The price for the newest edition of the Vermont Old Cemetery Associa tion's Burial Grounds of Vermont \VL, Spring 1998] is $29.95 postpaid, avail able from Charles Marchant, P.O. Box ROUTE 2, IK)X 279-28, DANVILLE, \'ER.MONT 05828 132, Townshend, VT 05353. SUMMER 1998 -7 M a d e i n V e r m d n i 0 Master Bird Carver Floyd Scholz Makes Wood Take Wing Floyd Scholz , one of the top bird sculptors in the world, took his field research to new heights when he tried sky diving to better un derstand the lives of birds of prey. But the experience was typical of the Hancock artist, a former All-Amer By Kathleen M. Mangan ican decathlon champion who is pas sionate about birds, obsessive about accuracy and insistent on realism. "Jumping gave me new insight on Floyd Scholz in front of the Hancock the perspective of a migrating hawk," schoolhouse that is his studio and the says Scholz. "With nothing separating home of his Vennont Raptor Academy you from the atmosphere, you experi carving school. Below, a golden eagle, ence the sheer force of the wind and "Fragile Sovereignty." gravity, the rush of acceleration and the feeling of freedom." coast of Maine, counting puffin eggs, In-depth research has been a hall banding birds and observing their mark of Scholz's career, part of the rea habits. "I learned early in my career, son he is a recognized master at cap you can't carve what you don't know," turing the intensity and drama of birds he says. of prey in wood. When he got a pere This willingness to go to great grine falcon commission, he volun lengths to better understand his sub teered for the Peregrine Fund, working jects is one of the qualities that has in the hawk barns and assisting with put Scholz at the top of his profession. autopsies at Cornell University to He is perhaps the most collectible and learn more about the bird. He was also highest paid bird carver in the world, among the volunteers who helped commanding up to $110,000 for life- reintroduce peregrines in Vermont in sized eagles. Collectors pay S20,000 to the early 1980s. $30,000 for a red-tailed hawk, $5,500 When he landed a commission to to $7,000 for a smaller American carve a puffin, he volunteered for the kestrel and $2,500 for a black-capped Puffin Project, spending weeks living chickadee. He is kept busy with nu in a lighthouse on an island off the merous commissions, and most of his