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USE AND NUTRITIONAL COMPOSITION OF SOME TRADITIONAL MOUNTAIN PIMA PLANT FOODS PDF

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Ethnobiol. 11(1):93-114 /. AND USE NUTRITIONAL COMPOSITION OF SOME MOUNTAIN TRADITIONAL PIMA PLANT FOODS JOSEPH LAFERRIERE E. Department and Ecology Evolutionary Biology of CHARLES WEBER W. and EDWIN KOHLHEPP A. Department and Food Nutrition Science of University Arizona of AZ Tucson, 85721 ABSTRACT.— Foods consumed by Mountain Pima of plant origin traditionally the of Chihuahua, and Mexico, were analyzed proximate mineral content. Fruits for and immature and cladodes of Opuntia O. durangensis, O. macrorhiza; robusta, fruits of Arctostaphylos pungens, Arbutus xalapensis, Berberis pimana, Prunus persica, P. and tubers serotina var. virens, P. gentryi; roots of Prionosciadium townsendii; of Dahlia coccinea; bulbs of Hymenocallis pimana; inflorescences of Tillandsia erubescens; and leaf bases and immature flowering stalks of Agave shrevei were analyzed Cu, Zn, Ca, and Mg. for lipid, protein, ash, carbohydrate, Fe, fiber, Mineral was and shoots content determined Solanum diphyllum for for fruits of of three native condiments, Monarda austromontana, Hedeoma patens, and Teloxys We ambrosioides. also describe native uses of these foods, as well as of Physalis spp., Chenopodium Echinocereus spp., Mammillaria spp., Amaranthus spp., lepto- Rhus phyllum, Yucca spp., Portulaca oleracea, Passiflora spp., Lonicera cerviculata, trilobata, Pinus discolor, Cyperus esculentus, Allium spp., Begonia gracilis, Oxalis spp., pima RESUMEN.-Alimentos usados por los de origen vegetal tradirionalmente proximos montanes de Chihuahua, por sus contenidos y Mexico, se analisieron O minerales. Frutas y cladodes juveniles de Opuntia robusta, O. durangensis, y pimana macrorhiza; Arbutus xalapensis, Berberis frutas de Arctostaphylos pungens, town Prunus rakes de Prionosciadium persica, P. serotina var. virens, y P. gentryi; inflorescen- pimana; sendii; tuberculos de bulbos de Hymenocallis Dahlia coccinea; de Agave shrevei cias de jovenes Tillandsia erubescens; bases de hojas y guiotes Cu, Zn, Ca, se analysieron por carbohidrato, Fe, grasa, proterna, fibra, ceniza, Mg. de Solanum diphyllum y y Composition mineral se determine de las frutas de Teloxys Hedeoma tres condimentos Monarda austromontana, patens, y indigenas, de comidas de ambrosioides. Describimos tambien traditional estas y utilisation la Chenopodium Physalis Amaranthus spp., spp., Echinocereus Mammillaria spp., spp., Yucca spp., leptophyllum, Lonicera cerviculata, Portulaca spp., oleracea, Passiflora Rhus Begonia gracilis, Allium spp., trilobata, Pinus Cyperus esculentus, discolor, Oxalis spp., y Capsicum annuum var. aviculare. RESUME.— Quelques traditionamment consumers par aliments d'origine plantale pima montagneux de Chihuahua, Mexique, se sont analyzes pour sa com- les position proximale et minerale. Les fruits et les cladodes juveniles d'Opuntia robusta, O. dumngensis, et O. tnacrorhiza; les fruits d'Arctostaphylos pungens, Arbutus xalapensis, Berberis pimana, Prunus persica, P. serotina var. virens, etP. gentryi; les racines de Prionosciadium townsendii; les tubercules de Dahlia coccinea; les bulbes de Hymenocallis pimana; les inflorescences de Tillandsia erubescens; et les bases de de Agave sont analyzes feuilles et les tiges juveniles l'inflorescence d' shrevei se pour le gras, la proteine, la fibre, la cendre, les carbohydrates, Fe, Cu, Zn, Ca, Mg. Le content mineral determine pour de Solarium diphyllum, et s'est les fruits et pour trois condiments traditionels, Monarda austromontana, Hedeoma patens, et Nous Teloxys ambrosioides. descrivons aussi l'utilisation traditionelle de ces aliments et celle de Physalis spp., Echinocereus spp., Mammillaria spp., Amaranthus spp., Chenopodium leptophyllum, Portulaca oleracea, Passiflora spp., Lonicera cerviculata, Yucca spp., Rhus trilobata, Pinus discolor, Cyperus esculentus, Allium spp., Begonia annuum gracilis, Oxalis spp., et Capsicum var. aviculare. INTRODUCTION The Mountain Pima utilize several noncultivated plants and animals for food, On weight fiber, building materials, medicine, and several other uses. a percent basis, noncultivated edible plants constitute only a small portion of the total diet, Many but importance than would suggest. their far greater small percentage is this and minerals, of the wild plant foods represent important sources vitamins of A especially vitamins and C. Such resources represent important sources of these ah nutrients for the neighboring Tarahumara (Connor Cerqueira et ah 1978, et Wild become the year. 1979). plants extremely important during certain seasons of Most them when maize of are available in summer, stores of the previous year's and bean harvests are running low. may during Noncultivated resources on an added importance also take non- droughts and other crop Dunnigan reported that use of failures. (1983) among adver- cultivated resources increases the Mountain Pima during times of the sity, as has been demonstrated for other traditional peoples in other parts of dependence Some world (Grivetti 1979). of the people acknowledge this increased years. on past wild resources, while others deny crop occurred in that failures and Today, the Pima respond crop by working wage laborers sell- to failures as This, ing livestock, as well as by increasing use noncultivated resources. their of importance plus the availability of commercially produced food, has lessened the eliminated it of non-cultivated resources under such circumstances but has not of bulbs (Dunnigan Some 1970). of the less-preferred plant resources, e.g. past the Hymenocallis pimana Lafer. (Amaryllidaceae), played an important role in as famine foods (Laferriere 1989a). strad- The region Mountain Pima Madre the live in the Sierra Occidental in They Mexico. dling the boundary between Chihuahua and Sonora, the States of Arizona are Pima and Tohono O'odham (Papago) of linguistically related the to subsistence and and lowland Sonora. The people engage animal husbandry in maize, and and planting agriculture, raising cattle, goats, pigs, chickens, turkeys, JOURNAL OF ETHNOBIOLOGY beans, squash, and potatoes, other crops (Dunnigan and 1970, 1983; Laferriere Van AsdaU The predominant 1991a). natural vegetation of the area pine/oak is A few forest. other species of trees are present in the vicinity. Madrono (Arbutus xalapensis H.B.K. and A. Gray) common arizonicus (A. Sarg., Ericaceae) in is forested areas, while ahuasiqui (Prunus gentry Standi., Rosaceae), capulfn (P. i & serotina Ehrh. ssp. virens (Woot. McVaugh and Standi.) palo var. uirens), prieto (Ilex tolucana Hemsl., Aquifoliaceae) are frequent along riverbanks. Sabino (Cupressus arizonica E. Greene, Cupressaceae) forms thick shaded stands in moister canyons, and few there are a small groves of haya (Acer grandidentatum Nutt., Aceraceae) near larger rivers. Several of the wild plant foods by Mountain Pima have never the utilized been analyzed for nutritional content, and two have been described botanically only recently (Laferriere 1990a; Laferriere and Marroquin 1990). The present study was undertaken and non- to ascertain the nutritional value of certain cultivated We cultivated plant more Mountain Pima foods. analyzed important several of the plant foods Some for proximate and mineral composition. of the smaller, less important items were not included because obtaining of difficulty in sufficiently large quantities of material. Quelites, or wild edible greens, were not analyzed since several existing publications already describe their nutritional value (Bye 1981; Cerqueira Connor Maytowitz and Franke et 1979; 1978; 1985; al. et al. Matthews diphyllum 1984). Sufficient quantities of naranjilla berries (Solarium L-, Solanaceae) were obtained mineral but not proximate analysis. for AND METHODS MATERIALS Ethnographic information was obtained by JEL through participant observa- tion and by interviews with Nabogame, Yepachi, and Las Varitas, residents of Chihuahua. and Fieldwork months between October 1986 lasted a of 13 total November from of 1988. Samples for analysis were collected the vicinity Nabogame, Municipio Temosachi, Chihuahua, 28°30'N, 108°30'W, elevation 1800 meters. The km commercial center site located approximately 18 northwest of the is of Yepachi and km should not be 10 Sonoran This village east of the frontier. confused name with the larger Tepehuan community of the same farther south in Chihuahua. Each from sample plants individual represented conglomerate of several a the same general Most samples were sun-dried (Kuhnlein 1986) for ship- vicinity. ment kachana to Tucson. while tubers of Leafy was indoors, material air-dried (Dahlia (Agave coccinea Cav., and flowering stalks of chugilla Asteraceae), leaves shrevei Gentry Hymenocallis pimana, bulbs of ssp. matapensis Gentry, Agavaceae), and and pimama fruits of Arbutus were transported fresh. Bulbs of H. xalapewsis were leaf bases Prunus spp. of A. were Fruits of shrevei peeled before analysis. Pitted complete with seeds before were analyzed drying, but those of other fruits because how were and cladodes (pads) this is they are consumed. Opuntia fruits d espined and Vouchers on deposit washed Mountain Pima manner. are the in ARIZ a and MEXU. * Upon were weighed and They were the laboratory items frozen. arrival at all powder then lyophilized, weighed, and ground into a using a blender and/or Wiley The ground samples were placed bags and stored in a freezer in plastic mill. analyzed. until The drying Samples were analyzed necessity of in triplicate. logistical most specimens for transport precluded accurate moisture figures for of the AOAC samples. and ash were determined by methods. Crude Protein, (1980) fat, Van was determined by the Acid Detergent Fiber method of Soest (1963). fiber Carbohydrate content was calculated by subtracting from 100 the difference of by moisture, protein, and ash. The energy values were calculated multi- fat, gram and by plying the grams of carbohydrate and protein by 4 kcal per the fat gram were determined 9 kcal per (National Research Council, Minerals 1980). AOAC were by wet ashing using the method. Acid digested samples (1980) made were run quantitatively transferred and up to a given volume. Minerals by Mineral stan- flame atomic absorption spectrophotometry (Hitachi, 180-70). dards were prepared on from atomic absorption standard a daily basis certified were curves solutions (Fisher Linear regression of the standard Scientific, NJ). 5% unknown within determined running samples and had an accuracy of after 10 masked runs and 10% between The magnesium and samples were runs. calcium was 1% Phosphorus with lanthanum (Deeming and Weber, a concentration 1977). was determined by the method of Koenig and Johnson All glassware acid- (1942). HNO3 washed 50% water. and deionized in rinsed three times in distilled AND RESULTS DISCUSSION mineral Results of proximate analysis are given in Table 1 while results of agree analyses are presented Table The our analyses in results of nutritional 2. been in large part with previous which have previously studies, for those plants with agree analyzed. Values for the two cultivated species, squash and peaches, Matthews values published by Gebhardtef and Haytowitz and (1984). (1984) al. did as Subterranean organs showed amounts carbohydrates, generally large of the than Agave much shrevei. Fruits analyzed with seeds proved higher in fiber chemical pitted fruits oiPrunus spp. The four taxa oiOpuntia varied considerably in magnesium. and content, although were high carbohydrate, calcium, in all fiber, Poaceae), Major mays Cultivated crops.— cultivated crops include maize (Zea L., Cucurbitaceae), beans (Phaseolus vulgaris Fabaceae), squash (Cucurbita pepo L., L., and (Laferriere potatoes and (Solatium tuberosum peaches (Prunus persica L.) L.), Van strips, Asdall The Mountain Pima seeded squash into 1991a). cut peeled, & Van Asdall wind the strips into coils and sun-dry them for winter use (Laferriere (Bennett manner The 1991a). Navajo and Tarahumara dry squash in a similar and Zingg 1935; Vestal 1952). are peaches The Green Mountain Pima and use peaches both green ripe. higher peaches are stewed Green with sugar them. or roasted in the to soften fire and lower in fiber carbohydrate than (Table in ripe fruits 1). JOURNAL OF ETHNOBIOLOGY coo^r^rHOscn^tN.rH^rs.LnoqpiNrHoqoB S88£S£Sfe£R3KKfeSK23£Kf? 1« B-lll'l &• . . . lilllilfiiiiliiiitglll 111 Jilt III f t i 1 Hi Ir ill I till ! t mi iliiiili ! J ! LAFERRIERE 2JS«^o^r-o>o2"*^2iJ3S3IooStnNoeso «cst-o2JS 1 gjg^^oeos^o-^oo^^og^^o? ;3£2££3ooss££2£££^!5:?33§$2;: llilllliiliiliiiiililliii Iti Ijl sin I mill lit . JOURNAL OF ETHNOBIOLOGY and —Fruits Cacti. cladodes (pads) of Opuntia spp. (Cactaceae) have been widely New much utilized as food sources in of the World (Meyer and McLaughlin 1981; and Russell Felker 1987). Six folk taxa of prickly pear (Opuntia spp.) are recog- by Pima Nabogame nized the of (Fig. These include the cultivated nopal de 1). and Castilla (O. ficus-indica (L.) Miller) five wild taxa, nopal temporal (purple- i.e. fruited individuals of O. Wendl.), tuna noviembrena robusta (red-fruited O. cf. nopal de cf. robusta), zorra (O. macrorhiza Engelm.), duraznillo bianco (yellow- cf. & fruited O. durangensis Britton Rose), and duraznillo Colorado (red-fruited O. durangensis) The cladodes are especially important during the spring dry season since they one are of the first noncultivated resources to become available in the year. Cladodes much of all six taxa are used in the same manner. Nopal temporal is most the important, producing the cladodes and growing abundantly in largest any nonplowed virtually Tuna noviembrena very but has red rather similar, site. is than purple fruits which mature October or November rather than August. in Nopal de zorra a small recumbent species producing narrow obconical fruits. is The immature toward cladodes of both these species have an orange especially tint, the distal edge. Duraznillo general appearance, being strikingly different in is a darker shade of green and having smaller cladodes bearing shorter but more numerous spines while lacking the reddish Nopal de Castilla planted in is tint. few a kitchen gardens, and valued and absence of spines. for large size is its mouth done toward of the ingested (Georgi 1982). Scraping the if et al. is first end removing then of the cladode, the majority of the spines, reversing distal remove Water the scraping direction to the remainder. periodically flushed over is A the cladode to clean away the loosened spines. few of the cladodes are eaten raw, but the majority are chopped and fried in lard with onions and/or garlic. The cladodes are cut by holding them vertically in the left hand and making parallel downward toward followed by perpendicular the base, further to slits slits the first. The Mountain Pima consume fruits or "tunas" of local taxa of Opuntia. all The fruits ripen in August and September except for those of tuna noviembrefia which mature October November. Those nopal de and nopal in or of Castilla much temporal are preferred, since they are larger than the fruits of the other and two The removed species. spines of both species are using cuts parallel to just below the skin. Fruits of nopal de zorra are too juicy for this method, since the interior of the fruit consists primarily of mucilaginous endocarp; hence the juicy area is generally scraped out with a knife. The fruits of duraznillo are the and seldom smallest driest of the four species in the community. These are utilized, but are treated like those of nopal temporal. All cladodes in our study proved higher carbohydrate and lower in ash in and than protein the values reported for cladodes of the cultivated O. ficus-indica can vary (Feitosa-Teles 1977; Feitosa-Teles Cladode composition et al. 1984). on depending on a degree of maturity; protein, contents tend to decrease fiber and percent weight basis as the cladode matures, while carotene starch, lipid, free sugar increase (Retamal Rodriguez-Felix and Cantwell 1988). et 1987; al. may The cladodes have vary a very high calcium content, although this somewhat The high according to soil content (Nobel 1987; Gonzalez 1989). et al. calcium values of Opuntia cladodes due accumulation are largely to the plants' Up may be of insoluble calcium 85% some in oxalate. to of the calcium cacti in may form the of calcium oxalate (Trachtenberg and Mayer This constitute 1982b). much 21% as as of the dry weight of the cladodes (Rodriguez-Mejia 1985). et al. Opuntia plumbea Rose contains 1.5% oxalate content by fresh weight Justice 1985). much This makes human The calcium of the calcium consumption. unavailable for bound calcium present in the cladodes shifts on a diurnal basis from being as This oxalate to being bound to the mucilage (Trachtenberg and Mayer 1982a,b). pH Metabolism is as a result of the cycles characteristic of Crassulacean Acid common amount of to most (Trachtenberg and Mayer Hence the cacti 1982a,b). may calcium available for digestion vary accoring the time of day. to somewhat The may quantity of carbohydrate be also available for utilization lower than our Some which a signifi- figures indicate. of the mucilage constitutes fraction cant proportion of the carbohydrate fraction digestible, but a sizeable is The Opuntia to is not. proportion of digestible matter varies from one species of reported another (McGarvie and The hypoglycemic effect Parolis 1979b, 1981). may for Opuntia cladodes (Ibanez-Camacho Frati-Munari 1987) 1983; et al. et al. any than be due an to inhibition of the absorption of simple carbohydrates rather on direct effect insulin production (Frati-Munari 1988). et al. Craig, M. Fruits of cholla (Mammillaria barbata Engelm., sonorensis cf. sheen E. Echinocereus W.T. Marshall (Marsh.) N.P. Taylor, stoloniferus ssp. tayopensis JOURNAL OF ETHNOBIOLOGY (Salm-Dyck) Rumpler andE. var. polyacanthus Engelm. sheeri, var. polyacanthus, raw when Cactaceae) all are also eaten mature in late summer, but are small and comparatively rare. Echinocereus fruits possess sharp spines which adversely affect their utilization. Fruits of other species of Mammillaria and have Echinocereus been consumed reported by the Navajo, and Tarahumara (Elmore Seri, 1943; Vestal 1952; Felger and Moser and by Pima Arizona 1985), the of (Curtin 1949). Stems of several species of Mammillaria have consumed food (Robbins also as Some et al. 1916; Vestal 1952). of the latex-containing species, however, have been used as hallucinogens (Bye 1979). Fruits of E. coccineus Engelm. are reportedly poisonous and used by Navajo Stems the as a heart stimulant (Elmore 1943). of certain species of Echinocereus have been used as hallucinogens (Bye 1979; Fer- ngnief make although stems have been used candy al. 1982), of other species to (Nobel 1988). — Agave. Chugilla (Agave Mountain Pima with two food items supplies the shrevei) plus a potent piscicide. Immature flowering or "guiotes" are harvested stalks May in and They and chewed upon June. are roasted the peeled, to in fire, extract the juicy interior. The fibrous material which constitutes a large fraction of the stalk material then spit out. is Leaves of Agave compounds which shrevei contain several inhibit their utiliza- tion as food by sources. These leaves are used raw as fish stupification plants the Mountain Pima and Tarahumara Dunnigan Bennett the (Byeet 1975; 1970; al. and Zingg 1935; Gentry The plants contain several different saponins, 1982). primarily hecogonin and manogenin, but no flavones or tannins (Hegnauer 1963, 1986; List and Horhammer Dominguez The saponins present 1972; 1960). et al. in the leaves and make washing (Sheldon clothes rootstocks these tissues useful for 1980). Extracts horn Agave sap the nervous system and produce diarrhea affect when injected Sap torn Agave leaves into laboratory animals (Jones 1932). et al. also kills snails and inhibits the growth of fungi (Shoeb et al. 1986; de Cassia- Salomao and and (Davidson Purchio and has been used as an antiseptic 1982) Ortiz de An compound many including Montellano species, unidentified in 1983). A. shrevei, causes dermatitis (Gentry 1982). Leaves commonly been roasted however, of various species of Agave have, and consumed genus (Gentry Castet- 1982; as food throughout the range of the ter et The Mountain Pima use the white leaf al. 1938; Ebeling Mitich 1986; 1976). them bases and of A. by them peeling them, eating shrevei roasting large in pits, (Fig. The leaving a rather 7). roasting destroy most of the saponins, is sufficient to sweet, and can often juicy but The are rather large fibrous mass. roasting pits somewhat be seen reported still years Kovacevic (1963) after their utilization. etal. higher from cooked protein values leaf (3.64% dry weight) and lower ash (5.76%) A mesoderm some nutrients may of of the digestibility americana Roasting alter L. as well as lower the saponin content. Other although wild fruits.—The other fruits, Mountain Pima several also utilize none The most common the is enough make contribution to diet. to a significant banks important which grows along the of these ahuasiqui (Prunus gentryi), is Two some of and folk species of the The mature June July. larger creeks. in fruits and are recognized, the purple-fruited ahuasiqui negro gentryi gentryi) the (P. f . yellow-to-scarlet-colored ahuasiqui bianco (P. gentryi f flavipulpa) (Fig. 2) (Lafer- . riere 1989b). The latter considered less astringent than the former. Capulin is (Prunus serotina var. mens) (Fig. 3) is also present in similar habitats, but is underutilized because of astringent taste. Parra (Vitis arizonica Engelm., its t *! 5 r P! FIG. 3.— Fruiting branches of capulin (Prunus serotina var. virens).

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