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Urban Life in Post-Soviet Asia PDF

225 Pages·2006·3.768 MB·English
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2 1 0 2 r e b m e c e D 5 1 9 2 : 8 0 t a ] h a b a S a i s y a l a M i t i s r e v i n U [ y b d e d a o l n w o D URBAN LIFE IN POST-SOVIET ASIA 2 1 0 2 r e b m Capturing a unique historical moment, this book examines the changes in urban life since e c the collapse of the Soviet Union from an ethnographic perspective, thus addressing significant e D gaps in the literature on cities, Central Asia and post-socialism. The book encompasses 5 Tashkent, Almaty, Astana and Ulan-Ude: four cities with quite different responses to the fall 1 9 of the Soviet Union. Each chapter takes a theme of central significance across this huge 2 geographical terrain, addresses it through one city and contextualises it by reference to : 8 the other sites in this volume. The structure of the book moves from nostalgia and memories 0 t of the Soviet past to examine how current changes are being experienced and imagined a ] through the shifting materialities, temporalities and political economies of urban life. h a Privatisation is giving rise to new social geographies, while ethnic and religious sensibilities b a are creating emergent networks of sacred sites. But, however much ideologies are changing, S cities also provide a constant lived mnemonic of lost configurations of ideology and practice, a i acting as signposts to bankrupted futures. Overall, this book provides a detailed account of s y the changing nature of urban life in post-Soviet Asia, clearly elucidating the centrality of these a al urban transformations to citizens’ understandings of their own socio-economic condition. M ti Catherine Alexanderis Reader in Social Anthropology at Goldsmiths College, University i rs of London. She has carried out fieldwork in Turkey, Britain and Kazakhstan, and has e v published on domestic space and cities. Most of her research has been engaged with changing i n relationships between state, society and market including privatisation, property relations and U [ welfare and the third sector. y b d Victor Buchliis Reader in Material Culture in the Department of Anthropology, University e College London. His research interests focus on the material culture of socialism and post- d a socialism, modernist architecture and urbanism in Russia and Kazakhstan, the archaeology o nl of the recent past, and theoretical understandings of material culture and materiality. w o D Caroline Humphrey is Professor of Collaborative Anthropology at the University of Cambridge. She has worked extensively in Russia, Mongolia and North-West China, and also more briefly in Nepal and India. She has published on economic change, ritual and religion, and her current interests concern socialist and post-socialist urban cultures in China and Russia. 2 1 0 2 r e b m e c e D 5 1 9 2 : 8 0 t a ] h a b a S a i s y a l a M i t i s r e v i n U [ y b d e d a o l n w o D URBAN LIFE IN POST-SOVIET ASIA 2 1 0 2 r e b m e Edited by c e D 5 Catherine Alexander, 1 9 Victor Buchli 2 : 8 0 and Caroline Humphrey t a ] h a b a S a i s y a l a M i t i s r e v i n U [ y b d e d a o l n w o D UNIVERSITY COLLEGE LONDON PRESS First published 2007 2 by UCL Press 1 The name of University College London (UCL) 0 2 is a registered trademark used by UCL Press r with the consent of the owner e b Taylor & Francis m 2 Park Square, Milton Park, Abingdon, Oxon OX14 4RN e c e Simultaneously published in the USA and Canada D by UCL Press 5 270 Madison Ave, New York, NY 10016 1 9 UCL Press is an imprint of the Taylor & Francis Group, an Informa business 2 8: This edition published in the Taylor & Francis e-Library, 2007. 0 t “To purchase your own copy of this or any of Taylor & Francis or Routledge’s a collection of thousands of eBooks please go to www.eBookstore.tandf.co.uk.” ] h a © 2007 Editorial selection and matter, Catherine Alexander, Victor Buchli b a and Caroline Humphrey; individual chapters, the contributors S a All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reprinted or i s reproduced or utilised in any form or by any electronic, mechanical, or y a other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying al and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without M permission in writing from the publishers. ti British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data i s A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library r e v Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data i n A catalog record for this book has been requested U [ y b ISBN 0-203-94487-9 Master e-book ISBN d e d a o ISBN10: 1–84472–115–9 (hbk) nl ISBN10: 0–203–94487–9 (ebk) w o ISBN13: 978–1–84472–115–3 (hbk) D ISBN13: 978–0–203–94487–5 (ebk) CONTENTS 2 1 0 2 r e b m List of figures vii e c List of tables viii e D Notes on contributors ix 5 Preface xi 1 9 2 : 8 0 1 Introduction 1 t a CATHERINE ALEXANDER AND VICTOR BUCHLI ] h a 2 Astana: materiality and the city 40 b a S VICTOR BUCHLI a si 3 Almaty: rethinking the public sector 70 y a CATHERINE ALEXANDER l a M 4 Tashkent: three capitals, three worlds 102 i it MARFUA TOKHTAKHODZHAEVA s r e v 5 City of migrants: contemporary Ulan-Ude in the context of i n U Russian migration 125 [ y GALINA MANZANOVA b d 6 The creation and revitalisation of ethnic sacred sites in Ulan-Ude e d since the 1990s 136 a o l ALTANHUU HÜRELBAATAR n w o 7 The homeless of Ulan-Ude 157 D IRINA BALDAYEVA 8 New subjects and situated interdependence: after privatisation in Ulan-Ude 175 CAROLINE HUMPHREY Index 208 v 2 1 0 2 r e b m e c e D 5 1 9 2 : 8 0 t a ] h a b a S a i s y a l a M i t i s r e v i n U [ y b d e d a o l n w o D LIST OF FIGURES 2 1 0 2 r e b m 1.1 Map of Central Asia 15 e c 2.1 New housing for state bureaucrats 41 e D 2.2 Astana cityscape along the river Ishym 41 5 2.3 Weekend promenade along the Ishym embankment 43 1 9 2.4 Population of Astana, 1869–2003 44 2 : 2.5 Traditional samannyidwelling 49 8 0 2.6 The ‘Prestizh’ housing block locally known as the ‘Kursk’ 50 t a 2.7 Detail of a shanyrak 53 ] h 2.8 Shanyrakas decorative element in street railing 54 a b 2.9 Shanyrakas neo-classical trompe l’oeilceiling decoration 55 a S 2.10 New samannyiaddition 57 a i 2.11 Russian colonial-era wooden izba 63 s y 3.1 Almaty’s outskirts (new villas) 77 a l a 3.2 Almaty’s outskirts (temporary shacks) 78 M 3.3 Almaty’s population, 1926–2003 80 i it 3.4 State apartment block in micro-region (Almaty) 81 s er 3.5 Ethnic composition of Almaty by three largest groups, v i 1939–1995 88 n U 4.1 Tashkent’s old city walls 104 [ y 4.2 Soviet Tashkent 109 b d 4.3 New Russian Orthodox church 115 e 6.1 The Lenin Monument, Square of the Soviets, Ulan-Ude, d a 1988 137 o nl 6.2 Shamans’ association conducting a ritual in public 139 w 6.3 Buddhist monks conducting a purification ritual 142 o D 6.4 Duinker datsan(new Buddhist monastery) 143 6.5 Map of the camp of Geser 151 7.1 Dwelling at the rubbish dump of Soviet District, Ulan-Ude, 2001 163 vii LIST OF TABLES 2 1 0 2 r e b m 3.1 Almaty’s population, 1926–2003 80 e c 3.2 Total population movement by ethnicity in Almaty, 2002 86 e D 3.3 Migration source and destination by ethnic group, 2002 5 (Almaty) 87 1 9 3.4 Department of Social Administration employees (Almaty), 2 : 1998–2003 95 8 0 3.5 State administration employees (Almaty), 1998–2003 95 t a 4.1 Tashkent’s size and population, 1877–2015 103 ] h 6.1 Lamas’ Buddhist centres in Ulan-Ude 141 a b 8.1 Inhabitants of Verkhneudinsk in 1880 181 a S a i s y a l a M i t i s r e v i n U [ y b d e d a o l n w o D viii NOTES ON CONTRIBUTORS 2 1 0 2 r e b m Catherine Alexanderis Reader in Social Anthropology at Goldsmiths College, e c University of London. e D 5 Irina Baldayevais a Kandidat of Sciences in Ulan-Ude. 1 9 Victor Buchliis a Reader in Material Culture at University College London. 2 : 8 Caroline Humphreyis Professor of Collaborative Anthropology at the University 0 t of Cambridge. a ] h Altanhuu Hürelbaatar is a Research Associate in the Department of a b Anthropology, the University of Cambridge. a S a Galina Manzanovais a Researcher at the Russian Academy of Sciences (Ulan- i ys Ude). a l a Marfua Tokhtakhodzhaevapractises as both an architect and an ethnographer in M Tashkent. i t i s r e v i n U [ y b d e d a o l n w o D ix

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