Under Pressure: Cooking Sous Vide

295 Pages·2008·1.46 MB·English

by  Thomas Keller

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THOMAS KELLER
UND
Tal fe chefs have nips and snentased me rch my easer—enote whe, ke

Alar Henin, lped guide me and rein me why wes or mare ers
‘ae Foren, those wh have worked rely at The French Zavadry per ocho,

Ibaschon fakes end Ad bat pst and ores, fr thsi contains othe selon

of oar merase Only thigh sich aalaborsis ofr his Sok posi

ip my mothe, Magog my Sher, Howard ane my it I nabeth
or supposing se als, sducstion, and cuisine.

Tosh coola ae Thc Freach Lamy poten pment
with whovnsheae recipes were developed

Tim wif, Andra: nl degre Asal Cree, fe thee
cscs porto ay rend, Mari il wy aint, tte
ii paste re nA Ky tal

A POWERFUL

INTRODUCES

NEW COOKING

MERICAN COOKS TO ON

savonsfmaleostines And what
ns? Away of heen, Bods

caliyi

is tls goa a

prov Ac let eae he mo octane

ingles in coking the oe thr ean sae
fv all the others uo something elias

rio somerting doy and ull Is she che
sypedlene cha as be te hae 9 esse
ores. Bt in honk Thora Keller and
siecle soot he pons of eis Bet

fing with dovens ef Uislan Ustt would Be

fie, even coneeable without

This tex Hosting metho! is the sent

frst sso of he Ei

thwhich os back ro mesial mes Iegpes

bythe name st ses”
and two
baie steps Fist you ose a wasu-parking
chine tel Fd ghey 2 hie hag
Them yum erse the bog kn a wae bath
hoard ely to the optimal ekg semper
ur The vase pes bag bag the on
proseeting it loa coats wit te wares while
teaniercing the heat dinec'y Gom the hoe
seater ‘Te bath is oglitd by device cle
an immersion cxculaor,« eenibinstion of |
henner ester. and gmp that wontors

Lhempertie hss theta jt enough

OOL

HAROLD MCGEE

DP THE MOST IMPORTANT

rains the memperanae you see t hand
sos the warer anal the temperate
ren eoxghout she at

‘Sous ein rally des maf this

medio, boca the vatasn-packng the tem

cul et ses erpotant chan reper

snare canto “Presson cusking” would be =

beter ean ue fr sous ie isi
The heart of sus vide poking the ror

trl appli oF relly la rs

jue
hor enough £2 cook the fod properly. m9
nos, A po of oiling weter ot hot even

cooks fond

thige teoporarre, vo hath
the

oper temperate the outside at Lease

ne time the esater of te Fo zach

pauly overconked yon dont gat de Gis

jase eight sets cas up dry arc egeables
nui ue i yw hea food Jn water nia
sine easy the empermure you wat
food ile seach, el ene op eve pop
ly noughovt

[As dievsinl an page 15, the soar see
retiod was developed in Erance a the easy
to7os: Cooks in He Unie’ Sees rst hese
about icadecade ates, bat he Ted and Drag
[mination rise sfeny concer, st he

couiprent wasnnfariar and expensive Sus
vide caving te les Sade rar dl

h

tml 3070, wien Cran Berth.

‘eT Wiel Rae cmp Bathe cmon
strate its senor to Daniel Bend, Thora
Kelle and nthe ing American chef ne
howe then une ine The che
them coven whe emake thing they
could de

the word spree.
1 tng shar the Rit beak preset che
sons vide methed so Sngli-speking cooks

‘omen from Thonn Kalles, ace of dhe. ost

resthe ant admired che of ie generton,

whose cooking is deep coord in che Frenc

sion, No one 2 in = bee poston co
show shi, far Som being sms peeing high

edhe. sous wide i atin, cntebtion wo

Ba easing 2 teckgue hat make it post
ble to cock toods move corsisensly aud
bial han eve bei

“The most important ard cious bens of
enpecause como vt it enue agua

ruler oF ooercnnking foae, But as they

pest deg deepen
cookiig chal hme made sore man spat
‘cere Ta the pat whe efi
dni of es atl acl eg eink
thee or fr saad eateries panning a
tempera range tn degen (8 degrees

Formers Ye ietarnsont chai dee

(or 3 degree B) can me a dieence!
Pking slmon graviy beg fe moist e
salmon soaked 9» 48°C (8h) mse
and slighty icky while slmen cooked to
50.6 (31) i alii femora on lange

frond 4 60°C (440) ie
basi ele dcoughou a 628 (4s). he

oli aceallyFrer'thn the wurrounding,

white Sous wide eacking hos opened ap ne
seas of revue ad Ear d

eonile before ond that till
understood
asdupa new foatiar

Sous vide han loo

in cocking times, Trndtonal, tough ete

seat wete cook for several hous at 8

984 (Row 200°F) s isohe chee eon
etive tue nt oft latin, But thot high
Temperate aaa aqueene malin fot the
rest hers andy them ost Tay eis

sng sot vdecan serve short ib an bik

steam unter sntnecrare, vende yo
moist bysooking hem st572°C {36F) forsB
ibn Tleenghn clare nasi news
sues nd von from ior naeiens an
‘sing ronnie

kitchen ingerisy has even canned the

‘acao-packng machine ie Fints a rel for
sein inal Fike ad beng

nes The oxiginal induscrin) purpose of

acum: packing was t© make fonds easier 12
Fal, Fimithercxpomir othe ic and ge
them + longer shelf life, Resanmane chefs

eve hse sort benefit nm ie but sey

anpackingeat
rake feed look and sete bere. maine
1 of ch and scat Suing cookin, fr

thoy tecoms raslacent. intenss, almost
sncaty
Dose

cage of the sou vice ned
ponead the mecranizacien of profssions
ooking, the tiunphof secinalogy over cafe
1 dans thik 40, Pesinion esting fer
precedente conta ver tenn and fur,
ss eonsesquently nore exter m9
ise reign eer cnet
foes sniprcadisie ving af igieehs
and techniques fom all over the werkt
Cooking cermin becomes simply
rion, but at che ste sn becoming
now pecsond. mone expressive of ech eok’s
india ignition and ni

Jn this hook Fir tee chefs expen the
indie of ws ide coking and share whet

‘hey've cea with es elp. They ghe you

0 extensive view ofthis new teritery ad its

peeibtien, Ate thei ite one rae

explore
PRECISION OF EXECUTION

THE FUNDAMENTAL ADVANTAGE 0% SOUS VIDE 15 PRECISION, BEFORE SOUS WIDF

esc tre we appl #9 fod lod

nn ur senses anu our experience to new
Gehen the Sad bad reached the sight
empearine—tla 12 krow whes tp

he cooking, Because you alma ays cook.

fees a Pighersemporuer thar you want

Ii topd ro reach, When we rns x salle oF
lamin far example, the cooking temperstore
ie Iunceeds of dsgeses higher thax the
saq°C (G0°F) we want the aed foot

tobe, Wah sos ride, vecan cook it at 544°C
fovarlong i tes

he doees of rein sous wide als i
excraoalinary, bus yo sil eto Bro hoe

toveoak Sus vice enables you 1 be presi
deterining cooking eamperaturss, but youre
sel cvtng cha am saddle: eying it, engaged
inthe repedtion oF echigus hat eal ns
perfec a sade diy fice day The pes

sion sow vide

lows is a veminder of lowe
cision undevies eveyeing we do 28 xe
resonate Decision of cafe, presi of
excrition a daily hey saute -by-minate

To pect taping precisn gal
{5 consieney, and comiixeney may be che

Single ms. pecan earn

seth: cht suse i cast r

wring, destination, Censay nor the
Prlipettvceas ce wetter oF ie ate,
‘he depth of the wine lis, the design <F che
ram, the ply of he pretet—ianitly
srt reemrares are fide ot

Any rearane mises cersin epecttions
in the tind of che citer, and the ret
ant sueees ony by matching or exceeding
those exseestions, for those reste hat
promediring af the highsst quali: espe
ons are oeny high. Precision of execution
from the cooking of tks lam w dhe way the

server ps ita chu the ofthe

pine, rhe than os top of and everyting
bons afer, and in besween, few we ate
juego om, iis cal a every ke, oom ee
moment te fst eras reve inthe maen
ing to the mamsat when the couatess ae
‘wiped down betove dic itchens empty for Ce
ight les nocenough 0 succodat ourgcl 50
percent of the time, We fl fe are not con-

‘Wheto on evening at pe eth

the pie’ tape ther olds deh nigh
sisi ee po Find be ta gh inn
wal = kit Tyan pis then grote
That ne af the serene. Zion Cari, had
shes un eae dhs sal aguilera
leu seuneching he ovstome reverses, and
etic tH, empl he

averting ethos of te taunt

Precision is ako about seseng examples

‘Beamplerare portant xf with
ous em, ave dan aya Fonction Fo she
nest genercon. ln the estan, che pss

i with which i dteplih iels

over and over reinforces the importance oF

ther precsion ‘or our younger sseF—whetho

ieseating the painters ap, exthe way we put
ngs aay 0 bujirg the Lab, adnooede

ing th any of th ay, ving the une
supplies. and 0 oa. Presson goes beyond he

Crs rinoie, the very Bite vege
dices ancther example of srcsicn. Yeu
<aaso: have precion without wepesition, Yo
pevfum » elmigue over and oes snd we
nd ove again una t beconse gat of yy
our mavetcent, i your ane, he way
you (el. Conaiteney taking precition of
sti and ang ious
Son isu Pression 0 ju master of
doing she same ching over nd veri abut
realy losing sepetison, she chance to do
sermcthing again and agin, ely che sare
oat inthe day. The repetition uf cing it
ver and over every dy resis in being able
avs a cut that lem lige flesh on the bane,
ping you the Best eld rom the bee possible
fh. Von gr ally goa Yon grt loser
md lve the pene cut

An sous vide allow is, ere ve dove
thar work en apply host in he ma ssetng
son, cook the fed withthe geecsn shit

sve began th wen we ge so were LFjou

ewe ooak igh ol your workiloe S
[Son inthe sense is sry cep oe i
soc vesting anything

in she wave wy chat so side eon con
nest in & afead spectoum of coating

techniques so one coupon ious

foe precision ot every level, I other
‘words, sous vide is this another sep in our
HY SOUS VIDE

you

CAN

AND

IT ANY

echnigu Why smu lipase. why gil? Yor
ven tink tx qusition Pese techie
Becavse they have bes aroun for slong

save ail quzaeal even skeptical. The

rr we asso ide beens allows ws

ae a thar can beached

only this ay.
Sovswide mot corspbcated or mysteries

Jforvanl and eset Like al

cooking techuigues ts define By a tesiper
awre-rime equation, «ben temperate it

applied i ud faa gen ane

The rs aie Few dat singh sous

ie Foo the other en

we vacuam-pask the od ie pate

the
(asing a wocuur packer), end we cook tia

swaer that rately evenees BFC (BSF), well

wv simnstng, ate usally « good dea

lower We pri ad mina empersts

Sous vide ao exo complicated thn

find i gives exe exenrdnary

cook od athe

> seach, When we mse most ocher cooking
tecinigues, we subject the food 10 compe

raves fr bose han we wane at fo

Wien

sea toe tendo, we may uy

sear ie tren 527°C (125%) a€ its eee

find yet we pa in a3 oven d's 19-2
(GaFF) higher thar tht, Te ook that same

eet ssaderlou sous vide ws would vaca

pak and pu into 5.7 (257) ter

Things hake oe btog artic

to deen

ru use the oven, you ha

cite: betta ad experience or yang
thormomter when teaches 170 (857)
b

aie ne tee stein

atse te interal veniperdcie in cing

so wie ons Wide, Hak tenderloin ont ge
bigherthansig°C (125) leben

empscanre end ie stays thers unl poze

ieedyirserret

Moceovss, whe you use a high-heat
method dich os ecrting He ctecor oF the
eae ges very ee. pst well-dene ard inside

you get what we call the bulls ye effet

secessive igs of led wl

smedinm, and ae, With cous ve, one ence

twoderlaia, not just the contr eke tempo
tae we wt tobe
Indeod, sous vide is considesbly casr

thas the other techniques cate i takes al
the gaearwiok out of cookieg, If we want to
sue sg, fab Jon ta an ines ape

ture uf 54.60 (90°F), so thai will vse co

GoIC (U0 F) ay serie wevlce end are,
‘weave toe vg lant Gu wih a snmesson
reali ween propio » temgertare wf

cexscly 60°C (140°) ice eur cooking vessel

We thee na ena pan eae epi

tuces we ea ay yge when ar ee igh

terete by alserving the she i the

il oF the sino Gegitg to tne Som
the pan,

ya weet prepare is ai ni or

i doth init

post ang ie i yl
reparation ‘shad al he, when ee gate
served, so oh dros the seus packed

Inn ir int the was

yous heated 060°C
{n4o"F), Wid a hal era a, she “amb
oct media rue. ard it would

ea for
Again, sous vie is vary f:giing—your

er Seeing it occ ofthe Bet lent

thon wih she store fami
Bross the fad is cooked a: the sane 2m

could’ ste dar amb nthe wane fore dey.

von sheup i: would acer go abore 60°C
(a4eF) and -¢ would sil lok pootetly
cocked, st would fost overcooked ars eee

npleant—yiu can ovetenok ond su vide

see ifit neverlooks ovresod
Secase we st ike that seaval extesier we
et Fi high eat, we sec elm ier it
sg (20 Medallions of

Eyam Felis Fann Lan Sle, page 160,

somes oat of the

foe one suchieeme, Tide how ie pe

_

neat bf ges tn the baad