UNCORKING THE PAST UNCORKING THE PAST THE QUEST FOR WINE, BEER, AND OTHER ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES PATRICK E. McGOVERN University of California Press, one of the most distinguished university presses in the United States, enriches lives around the world by advancing scholarship in the humanities, social sciences, and natural sciences. Its activities are supported by the UC Press Foundation and by philanthropic contributions from individuals and institutions. For more information, visit www.ucpress.edu. Every effort has been made to identify the rightful copyright holders of material not specifically commissioned for use in this publication and to secure permission, where applicable, for reuse of all such material. Credit, if and as available, has been provided for all borrowed material either on-page, on the copyright page, or in an acknowledgment section of the book. Errors or omissions in credit citations or failure to obtain permission if required by copyright law have been either unavoidable or unintentional. The author and publisher welcome any information that would allow them to correct future reprints. University of California Press Berkeley and Los Angeles, California University of California Press, Ltd. London, England © 2009 by The Regents of the University of California First Paperback Printing 2010 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data McGovern, Patrick E. Uncorking the past : the quest for wine, beer, and other alcoholic beverages / Patrick E. McGovern. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN: 978-0-520-26798-5 (pbk.: alk. paper) 1. Alcoholic beverages—History. 2. Alcoholic beverages—Social aspects. 3. Drinking of alcoholic beverages—History. 4. Drinking of alcoholic beverages—Social aspects. I. Title. GT2884.M36 2009 394.1'3—dc22 2009010512 Manufactured in the United States of America 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 This book is printed on Cascades Enviro 100, a 100% post consumer waste, recycled, de-inked fiber. FSC recycled certified and processed chlorine free. It is acid free, Ecologo certified, and manufactured by BioGas energy. To the innovative fermented-beverage makers of our species CONTENTS LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PREFACE 1 / Homo Imbibens: I Drink, Therefore I Am 2 / Along the Banks of the Yellow River 3 / The Near Eastern Challenge 4 / Following the Silk Road 5 / European Bogs, Grogs, Burials, and Binges 6 / Sailing the Wine-Dark Mediterranean 7 / The Sweet, the Bitter, and the Aromatic in the New World 8 / Africa Serves Up Its Meads, Wines, and Beers 9 / Alcoholic Beverages: Whence and Whither? SELECT BIBLIOGRAPHY ACKNOWLEDGMENTS INDEX ILLUSTRATIONS FIGURES 1. Prehistoric wine tasting 2. “Sorcerer,” Les Trois Frères grotto, French Pyrenees, ca. 13,000 years ago 3. Early Neolithic “musician/shaman” burial, Jiahu (Henan Province, China), ca. 6200–5600 B.C. 4. Juzhong Zhang, excavator of Jiahu, playing early Neolithic flute of “musician/shaman” 5. Red-crowned cranes in mating dance, Manchuria 6. Chateau Jiahu, Dogfish Head Craft Brewery 7. Shang Dynasty “teapot” (he), tomb of Liu Jiazhuang, Anyang, ca. 1250— 1000 B.C. 8. The author in his laboratory with 3,000-year-old millet wine from tomb at Anyang 9. Animals on pillar, Göbekli Tepe, Turkey, ca. 9000 B.C. 10. Dancing humans and tortoise on bowl or goblet, Nevali Çori, Turkey, ca. 8000 B.C. 11. Neolithic “mother goddess” flanked by leopards, Çatal Höyük, Turkey, ca. 6500–5500 B.C. 12. Neolithic “ancestors,” ‘Ain Ghazal, Jordan, mid-seventh millennium B.C. 13. Drinking Mesopotamian barley beer: clay seal, Tepe Gawra, Iraq, ca. 3850 B.C.; and lapis lazuli cylinder seal, Queen Puabi’s tomb, Royal Cemetery at Ur, ca. 2600–2500 B.C. 14. Hallucinogenic smoking and drinking appurtenances, Pazyryk, Russia, ca. 400 B.C. 15. Birch-bark bucket in grave of “dancer,” Egtved, Denmark, ca. 1500–1300 B.C. 16. Grave of Celtic prince, Hochdorf, Germany, ca. 525 B.C. 17. Imported wine in Early Dynastic Egypt: resinated wine jars and “tiger- striped” jar in Scorpion I’s tomb, Abydos, ca. 3150 B.C. 18. Canaanite ship arriving at port of Thebes: painting on tomb wall of Kenamun, fourteenth century B.C. 19. Mesoamerican cacao pod, Theobroma cacao 20. Late Classic Mayan vase painting of ruler imbibing cacao beverage 21. Vessels for serving and consuming elite cacao beverages of the Americas 22. Honey hunter smoking out bees in rock painting, Matopo Hills, Zimbabwe, possibly as early as ca. 8000 B.C. 23. Beer-making facilities: Predynastic Period in Egypt and modern Burkina Faso 24. Drinking beer through long straws, an ancient tradition: funerary stela, el- Amarna, ca. 1350 B.C.; Tiriki men, modern western Kenya MAPS 1. Eurasia 2. Europe and the Mediterranean 3. The Americas 4. Africa COLOR PLATES FOLLOW PAGE 128
Description: