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Turkey - True Stories PDF

302 Pages·2002·13.158 MB·English
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ARAVELERS TALES TURREY TRUE STORIES BY Stephen Kinzer, Jeremy Seal, Nicholas Shrady, Tim Cahill, Robert D. Kaplan, Mary Lee Settle and many more Edited by James Villers Jr. Cea TrvUCALIIA GiecL AIM POR DLRAVELERS TALES “The Travelers’ Tales series is altogether remarkable.” —Jan Morris, author of Journeys, Locations, and Hong Kong “For the thoughtful traveler, these books are an invaluable resource. There’s nothing like them on the market.” —Pico lyer, author of Video Night in Kathmandu “This is the stuff memories can be duplicated from.” —Karen Krebsbach, Foreign Service Journal “T can’t think of a better way to get comfortable with a destination than by delving into Travelers’ Tales...before reading a guidebook, before see- ing a travel agent. The series helps visitors refine their interests and read- ies them to communicate with the peoples they come in contact with....” —Paul Glassman, Society of American Travel Writers “« Travelers’ Tales is a valuable addition to any pre-departure reading list.” —Tony Wheeler, publisher, Lonely Planet Publications “ Travelers’ Tales delivers something most guidebooks only promise: a real sense of what a country is all about....” —Steve Silk, Hartford Courant “These anthologies seem destined to be a success... Tiavelers’ Tales pro- mises to be a useful and enlightening addition to the travel bookshelves. By collecting and organizing such a wide range of literature, O’Reilly and Habegger are providing a real service for those who enjoy reading first-person accounts of a destination before seeing it for themselves.” —Bill Newlin, Moon Publications “The Tiavelers’ Tales series should become required reading for anyone visiting a foreign country who wants to truly step off the tourist track and experience another culture, another place, first hand.” —Nancy Paradis, St. Petersburg Times “Like having been there, done it, seen it. If there’s one thing traditional guidebooks lack, it’s the really juicy travel information, the personal stories about back alleys and brief encounters. The Tiavelers’ Tales series fills this gap with an approach that’s all anecdotes, no directions.” —Jim Gullo, Diversion TRAVELER'S = DALES) HOOKS Country and Regional Guides America, Australia, Brazil, Central America, Cuba, France, Greece, India, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Mexico, Nepal, Spain, Thailand, Tibet, Turkey; American Southwest, Grand Canyon, Hawai'i, Hong Kong, Paris, San Francisco, Tuscany Women’s Travel Her Fork in the Road, A Woman’s Path, A Woman’s Passion for Travel, A Woman’s World, Women in the Wild, A Mother’s World, Safety and Security for Women Who Travel, Gutsy Women, Gutsy Mamas Body & Soul The Spiritual Gifts of Travel, The Road Within, Love & Romance, Food, The Fearless Diner, The Adventure of Food, The Ultimate Journey, Pilgrimage Special Interest Not So Funny When It Happened, The Gift of Rivers, Shitting Pretty, Testosterone Planet, Danger!, The Fearless Shopper, The Penny Pincher’s Passport to Luxury Travel, The Gift of Birds, Family Travel, A Dog’s World, There’s No Toilet Paper on the Road Less Traveled, The Gift of Travel, 365 Travel, Adventures in Wine Footsteps Kite Strings of the Southern Cross, The Sword of Heaven, Storm, Take Me With You, Last Trout in Venice, The Way of the Wanderer, One Year Off, The Fire Never Dies Classics The Royal Road to Romance, Unbeaten Tracks in Japan, The Rivers Ran East, Coast to Coast, Trader Horn RANe DSe Re Se | ALL ES TORE EY TRUE STORIES Edited by JAMES VILLERS JR. Series Editors JAMES O’REILLY AND LARRY HABEGGER ? TRAVELERS’ TALES SAN FRANCISCO Copyright © 2002 Travelers’ Tales, Inc. All rights reserved. Introduction copyright © 2002 by James Villers Jr. Travelers’ Tales and Travelers’ Tales Guides are trademarks of Travelers’ Tales, Inc. Credits and copyright notices for the individual articles in this collection are given starting on page 281. We have made every effort to trace the ownership of all copyrighted material and to secure permission from copyright holders. In the event of any question arising as to the ownership of any material, we will be pleased to make the necessary correction in future printings. Contact Travelers’ Tales, Inc., 330 Townsend Street, Suite 208, San Francisco, California 94107. www.travelerstales.com Art Direction: Michele Wetherbee Interior design: Kathryn Heflin and Susan Bailey Cover photograph: © Nigel Hillier/gettyimages. Yeni Cami (New Mosque), Istanbul. Map: Keith Granger Page layout: Cynthia Lamb, using the fonts Bembo and Remedy Distributed by: Publishers Group West, 1700 Fourth Street, Berkeley, California 94710. Library of Congress Cataloguing-in-Publication Data Turkey: true stories / edited by James Villers, Jr—Ist ed. p. cm. — (Travelers’ Tales guides) Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 1-885211-82-1 1. Turkey—Description and travel. I. Villers, James, 1966— II. Series DR429.4.T87 2002 956.1—dc21 2002008737 First Edition Printed in the United States 10987654321 For my father. Everything you see has its roots in the Unseen world. The forms may change, yet the essence remains the same. —RUMI Table of Contents Map XIV—-XV Introduction JAMES VILLERS JR. Part One ESSENCE OF TURKEY A Dazzling Kaleidoscope STEPHEN KINZER Above the Ruins of Ephesus MARY LEE SETTLE In the Hearts of God’s Children 12 NICHOLAS SHRADY Waiting for Gézleme 24 PIER ROBERTS From Troy to Gallipoli 28 TONY PERROTTET The Barefaced Pleasure 49 THOMAS GOLTZ The Best View of Istanbul 54 JAMES VILLERS JR. Who Are the Turks? 61 ROBERT D. KAPLAN A Visit to Soapmakers 67 JEREMY SEAL xii Travelers’ Tales * Turkey Part Two SOME THINGS TO Do Ye Pipes, Play On 89 STEPHEN KINZER Clash of the Camels 93 LAURIE UDESKY The Road to Urfa 97 LAURENCE MITCHELL How to Buy a Turkish Rug 103 LAURA BILLINGS The Blue Voyage 109 JOHN FLINN In the Hands of Kismet 15 CATHERINE WATSON Turkish Wrestlemania £19 STEPHEN KINZER Swimming the Hellespont 124 RICHARD HALLIBURTON In Cappadocia 136 MARY LEE SETTLE Part Three GOING YOUR OWN Way Looking for Noah 147 BRUCE S. FEILER A Wedding in Ekinlik 155 IRENE-MARIE SPENCER Encounter with the Goddess 164 TIM WARD Cay in Cankiri 186 PIERS LETCHER A Step in the River 192 BARBARA BOWEN Table of Contents Anybody Seen a Tiger Around Here? 201 TIM CAHILL Remzi’s Curse 216 APRIL THOMPSON Tears from Turkey 221 STEPHANIE ELIZONDO GRIEST Allah Hit Me 225 JOHN KRICH Part Four IN THE SHADOWS Turkish Knockout 229 ROLE POTTS 244 Where’s the Outrage? NICK DANZIGER The Fairy Tales of Van 261 JEREMY SEAL Part Five THE LAsT WORD On the Bosporus Pay SCOTT L. MALCOMSON Index 2D Index of Contributors 277 Recommended Reading 278 Acknowledgments 281

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