The Toros (Taurus) Mountains paralleling Turkey's southernborderandtheBlackSeaMountainsinthenorth meetto form a mighty range which definesthe country's easternborder. The tremendousdiversityofthe easternandsoutheasternlandssurprisestravelere:theredochre plateauofErzurum;theforests,waterfalls,andgreenpasturesofKarsandAgn;thepermanentsnow caponbiblicalMountAgrl(Ararat);andtheimmenseLakeVanwithitsdeepbluewaters.Dwellings andwaysoflifealsovarygreatlyinthislargeregion.Forexample,small,earth-roofedhouses,built closetothegroundtypifyKars.Despiteagenerallyausterelife,thepeopleofKarsaregenerousand hospitable. The region's long and turbulenthistoryhas left monumentsto itsvariouscivilizations;Byzantine monasteriesandchurches,Seljukmausoleumsandcaravanserais,andelegantOttomanmosques andhilltopcitadels.Totheinveteratetravelerandloverofadventure,thisregionofTurkeyfascinates, astonishesandinforms. FROMERZiNCANTODOGUBAYAZIT Thegreattrans-Anatonanaxisroad,isthemostdirectroutebetweenAnkaraandtheIranianborder, andpassesthroughSivas,Erzincan,Erzurum,AgflandDogubayazlt. Erzlncan,oneoftheimportantcitiesintheregion,lies688kmeastofAnkaraonafertileplain.The highly-decorated and hand-fashionedcopperwareofErzincanmaintainsalongtradition inthe area'sfameformetalwork.AkbulutSkiCenter,40kmtothewest,providesfacilitiesforwinter sportsenthusiasts.DumanllPlateauinRefahiyeCountyisarelaxinglocationamongpinetrees. Theelevationsoftheskicenterandplateauareboth2000m.Erzincanhastwosportsclubthatplay 'clrit',ajavelingameofdaredevilhorsemanshipinwhichwoodenjavelinsarethrownathorseman ofopposingteamstogainpoints.ThegameisplayedmainlyinEasternTurkey. Manyofthemagnificentbronzeobjectsinthe MuseumofAnatouanCMlizationsinAnkarawere foundatthenearbyUrartiansiteofAltlntepe,eastofErzincan. Theitemsdatefrom900-600BC. AtTeresn,theround12th-centurymausoleumofMamaHatunwith itsbeautifullycarvedstone portalisworthadetouroffthemainroad.ThewaterfallsatGlrvellk,29kmsoutheastofErzincan, provide idealpicnic spotswhereyou caneat apacked lunchand relaxtothe sound ofwater tumblingoverrocks. SouthwestofErzincanisthebeautifulgreentownofKemallyeontheFirst (Euphrates)River.Thehospitalityofthelocalsandthearchitectureofthetownareworthavisit. ThebestplaceforraftingandcanoeingisatnearbyKaranhkBogaz.Youwillalsowanttogoona photosafaritotakeinthenaturalbeautyofthearea. Erzurum,193km eastofErzincanandthe largestcity ineastern Anatona,sprawlson ahigh plateau at an altitude of 1,950 meters. As you enter the city, the large Aziziye Monument commemoratingtheTurkish-Russianwarwillcatchyoureye. Althoughthecollectioninthearchaeologicalmuseumrevealsmuchofthecity'shistoryandancient origins,itisErzurum'sarchitecturewhichisinfact the bestpictureofitspast. The citywallsand fortressare reminiscentoftheperiodofByzantinerule.The 5th-centurycitadelbuiltbyEmperor Theocosius stands on a hill at an altitude of 2000 meters.Of particularimportance are the remainingSeljukbuildings-brilliantexamplesofafascinatingaesthetic.The UluCami(Grand Mosque)wasbuiltin1179byMelikNasreddinMehmet(MehmettheRedLion).Ithasanunusual formwithsevenwidenaves.TheCitteMinareliMedrese,ortheologicalcollege,builtbytheSeljuk SultanAlaeddinKeykubatin1253,astonishesvisitorswithelaboratestonecarvingsonitsportaland itsmajesticdoubleminarets.Behindthe<;ifteMinareliMedresestandstheU<;:KUmbetler,agroupof threetombs,themostnotableofwhichisthatofEmirSaltuk.The13th-centuryHatuniyeTUrbesi,or mausoleum,wasbuiltforSultanAlaeddinKeykubarsdaughter.Thebeautifulportalandrichly-tiled minaretofthe13th-centuryYakutiyeMedresereveal anotherfacetofSeljukarchitecture.Youcan alsoseeOttomanbuildingsinErzurum.ThegreatarchitectSinanlefthismarkonthecityintheLata MustafaPasaMosque.TheAtatOrkhouseandmuseumwhereAtaturkstayedandheldacongress arenearthemosque. "f
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