Turkey. Ankara and the central Anatolian region

31 Pages·2009·6.33 MB·English

by  Bunyad Dinc

CENTRAL ANATOLIA
The central Anatolian plateau forms the heartland of
Turkey: ochre-hued, cleft by ravines and dominated
by volcanic peaks. The boldly contoured steppe has
a solitary majesty covered with wheat fields framed
by ranks of poplars.
Thisplateauwasalsoacradleofhumanciv During its turbulent history. Central
ilization. AtCatalhoyuk.remainsofsettle Anatoliahasenduredinvasionbygreatcon
mentsasoldastheeighthmillenniumB.C. querors,suchasAlexanderthe Greatand
havebeenunearthed.Hereinthehomeland Tamerlane. Inthecourseoftenmillenniaof
ofmanycivilizationsandthehistoricbaule habitation, the denizens ofthe area have
ground betweenEastandWest,theHanis, reflectedintheiranthedramaticcontours
Hittites, Phrygians, Galatians, Romans, ofthesurroundinglandscape,fromthevig
Byzantines,SeljuksandOttomansallfought orouspaintingsofCatalhoyukandthecon
fortheirsovereigntyand established their Ankara(Angora)cat fidentlinesofSeljuk architecture,to,more
rule.Inthe lIthcentury, migratingTurks recently. the impressive modem form of
fromtheeastmadetheplateautheirown. Ataturk'smausoleum.

ANKARA
The cityofAnkara liesin the center of location for military transportation and
Anatoliaontheeasternedgeofthegreat, naturalresources,toTurkishterritory.
high Anatolian Plateau,atan altitude of Thecitywasanimportantcultural,trading,
850 meters.The provinceis a predomi and arts center in Roman times, and an
nantlyfertilewheatsteppeland,withforest important trading center on the caravan
edareasinthenortheast.Itisborderedby routetotheeastinOttoman times.Ithad
theprovincesofCankm and Bolutothe declinedinimportancebythenineteenth
north,Eskisehir to the west,Kenyaand century.Itagainbecameanimportantcen
Aksarayto the south, and Kmkkaleand terwhenKemalAtaturkchoseitasthebase
Ktrsehirtotheeast. fromwhichtodirecttheWarofLiberation.
The region's history goes back to the Byconsequenceofitsroleinthewarand
BronzeAgeHatticivilization, which was
itsstrategicposition, itwasdeclared the
succeededinthe2ndmillenniumB.c.by
capitalofthenewRepublicofTurkeyon
theHittites,inthe10thcenturyB.C.bythe
October13th,1923.
Phrygians, then by the Lydians and
Persians.AfterthesecametheGalatians,a
SITESTOSEE
Celtic race who were the first to make
Anukabir(AtatiirkMausoleum):Located
Ankaratheircapitalinthe3rdcenturyB.C.
onanimposinghillintheAnutepequarter
It was then known as Ancyra, meaning
ofthecitystandsthemausoleumofKemal
"anchor,"oneofthe oldest words in the
Ataturk.founderoftheRepublicofTurkey.
languageofthesea-lovingCelts.Thecity
Completed in 1953, it is an impressive
subsequentlyfelltotheRomans,andtothe
Byzantines. Seljuk Sultan Alparslan fusionofancientandmodernarchitectural
openedthedoorintoAnatoliafortheTurks ideas and remains unsurpassed as an
atthevictoryofMalazgirtin1071.Thenin accomplishmentofmodernTurkisharchi
1073,he annexed Ankara,an important MustafaKemalAtaturk tecture.Thereisamuseumhousingasupe-
riorwaxstatueofAtaturk;writings,letters across the street fromUlusSquare,is in
anditemsbelongingtoAtaturk.aswellas what was originally the first parliament
an exhibition of photographs recording buildingoftheRepublicofTurkey.There
imponantmomentsinhislifeand inthe the \Var of Liberation was planned and
establishmentoftheRepublic.(Arutkabiris directed as recorded in various pho
openeveryday.andthemuseumeveryday tographsanditemsonexhibition.Inanoth
exceptMondays.Duringthesummer,there erdisplayarewaxfiguresofformerpresi
isalightandsoundshowintheevenings). dents of the Republic of Turkey. (Open
everyday,exceptMonday).
MUSEUMS TheMuseumoftheRepublic,closetothe
The Museum ofAnatolian Civilizations LiberationWarMuseum,ishousedinwhat
is close to the citadel entrance. An old wasthesecondparliament buildingofthe
bedesten(coveredbazaar)hasbeenbeauti Republic. The exhibition here records
fullyrestoredandnowhousesamarvelous important events in the early republican
and unique collection of Paleolithic, penod.(Openeveryday,exceptMonday).
Neolithic,Hatn,Hittite,Phrygian,Uranian, Ataturk'sHouseisonthegroundsofthe
and Roman worksand showpiece Lydian PainlingandSculpture Presidential Palace in Cankaya and was
MU"Oeum
treasures. (Open every day, except Ataturk'shouseafterthefoundingofthe
Monday.Duringthesummer,themuseum Republic.Thehouseismuchasitwasin
opense\'eryday). Ataturk's day, and exhibits photographs
TheEthnographyMuseumisoppositethe that record important events. (Open
Opera House on Talat rasa Boulevard. Sundaysandonreligiousandnationalhol
Thereisafinecollectionoffolkloricarti idays,1:30pmto5:00pm).
factsaswellasartifacts fromSeljuk and The Natural History Museum can be
Ottoman mosques. (Open every day, found on the grounds of the MTA
exceptMonday). (Mineral Research and Exploration
The Painting and Sculpture Museum is Institute)ontheEsktsehirroadinAnkara.
close to the Ethnography Museum and Thedisplaysrecordtheevolutionarydevel
housesarichcollecuonofTurkishanfrom opment of the world. (Open every day
the late 19thcenturytothepresent day. exceptreligiousholidays).
There arealso galleries forguest exhibi PTT Museum collections were begun
tions.(Openeveryday,exceptMonday). between 1880 and 1888 by then Postal
TheLiberation\VarMuseum,diagonally Director lzzet Efendi, The Museum in
Ahmdagwasopenedin1982.andcontains andtechnologyofeducationinTurkey.Itis
apostaldisplay.atelegraph andtelephone located inAnkara GaziUniversity,inthe
display,andastampdisplay.(Openweek Besevlerdistrict. (Openweekdays).
days). TheToyMuseuminCebecihousestoysof
TheTRTMuseum(TurkishRadio&;[Tele allkinds madeofwood.metal.porcelain.
visionBroadcasting)hasexhibitsfrom the paper,etc.(OpenWednesdaysandFridays
beginningofradioinTurkey,includingan from10amto5pm).
tiquephonographsandradios.Itislocated METUMuseumonthecampusofMiddle
intheTRTGeneralDirectoratebuildingin EastTechnicalUniversityhasarcheological
theOran district.(OpenMon.,\Ved.,Fri., artifactsand ethnographicdisplays.(Open
II am.3pm). weekdays,9:30amto3:30pm).
MehmetAkifErsoy Museum.ontheHa T.C.liraatMuseumattheUlusbranchof
ceuepe University CentralCampus, com thebankdisplaysarichcollectionofcoins
memoratesthefamousnational poetwho. and money in abuildingofarchitectural
inthishouse.wrotethetextoftheTurkish ~Iolhugoddn,from(atalho)itk. beauty.(Open weekdaysfrom8:30amto
nationalanthem.aswellassongsofinde "u<,(:umofAnalolianCivili:alion~. 5:30pm)
Ankara
pendence,andmanypoems. (Openweek
daysfrom toam• 12 pm and 2pm. 4 HISTORICALMONUMENTS
pm). AnkaraCitadel:Thefoundationsoftheci
The TeDDOpen-air Locomotive Muse tadelwerelaidbytheGalatiansonapromi
um.neartherailwaystationbyCelalBayar nent lavaoutcrop.and completed bythe
Blvd..showsthehistoryofsteamlocomotion Romans.TheByzantinesandSeljuksmade
throughthelocomotivesondisplay.(Open restorationsandadditions.Theareaaround
weekdays). andinsidethecitadel,beingtheoldestpart
TheCartographyMuseum.locatedinthe ofAnkara,containsmanyfineexamplesof
Hartta GenelKomutanltgtbuilding in the traditional architecture. There are also
Cebeci quarter, has old and new maps. lovelygreenareasinwhichtorelax.Itiswell
(OpenTues.andThurs.from9am-12pm known that the Ankara region was the
and2pm·5pm). cradle of wine in Haui and Hiuite times
The Meteorology Museum on Sanator CuhiefigurrfromAJacahO)"uk, around2000B.C..Manyrestoredtraditional
yumAve.inKalaba,shows thehistoryof Mu~umofAnatolian Turkish houses in theareaofthecitadel
meteorologyinTurkey.(Openweekdays). Chili%alion~. Ankara havefound newlifeasrestaurants.serving
TheEducationMuseum followsthehistory localandinternationaldishesandwine.
Roman Theatre: The remains, including struggle for independence on the pan of
pro-scene(stage),andscene(backstage),can AtaturkandtheTurkishpeopleintheWarof
beseenoutsidethe citadel. Roman statues liberation.
that were found here are exhibited in the MonumenttoaSecure,ConfidentFuture:
Museum of Anatolian Civilizations. The Thismonument,inGavenPark,waserected
audienceareaisstillunderexcavation. in 1935 and bears Ataturk's advice to his
TempleofAugustus:Thetemple isinthe people:"Beproud,hardworkmg,and believe
Ulusquarterofthecity.Itwasbuiltbythe inyourself."
Galatian King Pylamenes in 10 A.D. as a Victory Monument: Erected in 1927 in
tributetoAugustus,and wasreconstructed ZaferSquareintheSthhiyequarter,itshows
bytheRomansontheancientAnkaraAcro AtaliirkMuseum Ataturkinuniform.
polis in the 2nd century. It is important HalIi Monument:Erectedinthe 1970'sin
today forthe"MonumentAncyranum,"the SthhiyeSquare,this impressive monument
sole surviving "Political Testament" of symbolizestheHatugodsandcommemorates
Augustus, detailing his achievements, Anatolia'searliestknowncivilization.
inscribedonitswallsinLatinandGreek.In
the fifthcenturythe temple wasconvened MOSQUES
intoachurchbytheByzantines. Hacr Bayram Mosque: This mosque, in
RomanBath:Thebath,situatedonCankm UIlIS,nexttothe Temple ofAugustus.was
AvenueinUlus,hasallthetypicalfeatures:a builtintheearly15thcenturyinSeljukstyle
jrigidarium (cold room), lepidarium(cool -andwassubsequentlyrestored bySinanin
room)andcaldarium(hotroom).Theywere tlie 16thcentury,with Kutahyatilesbeing
builtinthetimeofEmperor CaracallaOrd KocatepeMosque addedinthe18thcentury.Themosquewas
century A.D.)in honour ofAsclepias, the builtin honorofHactBayramVeli.whose
godofmedicine.Todayonlythe basement tombisnexttothemosque.
andfirstfloorsremain. Aslanhane Mosque:This Seljuk mosque,
Column ofJulian:Thiscolumn, in Ulus, near the citadel, was built in the 13th
was erected in 362 A.D., probably to century. Themosquehasamihrap(prayer
commemorateavisitbytheRomanEmperor niche showingthe direction to Mecca) of
Julian theApostate.Itstandsfifteenmeters Seljuk tiles, and an unusual double
highandhasatypicalleafdecorationonthe colonnadeofwoodencolumns.Nexttothe
capital. mosqueisthetombofAhiSerafeddin.
Monument of the Republic: Erected in GilvtnPark AhiElvanMosque: Found in the Ulus
1927 inUlusSquare, itisasymbolofthe
quarterneartheCitadel,thismosquewas den,Segmenler,Anayasa,Kugulu.Abdi
builtandfinishedduringthelate14thand Ipekct. Gaven. Demetevler, Cemre,
early 15th centuries. The finely carved Kale,Ami,Kurtulus(foriceskating)and
walnut mimber (pulpit) is of particular AltmPark(Fairground).
interest. Ataturk Orman (iftligi (AtatOrk Farm
Alaaddin Mosque:Thismosqueisinside and Zoo)isnowwithinthegrowingcity
theCitadel walls.Ithasacarved walnut and isa pleasant place to spend a day.
mimber, the inscription on which shows Thereisalsoareplicaofthehousewhere
that the mosque was built in the 12th AtaturkwasborninSalonica,anexcellent
centurybytheSeljukruler,Mesut. restaurant, and some cafes. Visitorscan
Yeni(CenabAhmet)Mosque:Thisisthe samplesuchfamous productsofthefarm
largest Ottoman mosque in Ankara and as its excellent beer, old-fashioned ice
wasbuiltbythefamousarchitectSinanin cream,yogurt,milk,andmeatrolls.
the16thcentury.Themimber(pulpit)and
mihrap(prayerniche)areofwhitemarble, GOLF
and the mosqueitselfisofAnkara stone Erkeksu <;:iftligihasa9-hole golfcourse
(red porphyry),an example of very fine set in a lovely, peaceful countryside
workmanship.YeniCamiisonUlucanlar environmentlocated40kmwestofAnkara
Avenue. viaSincan.
Kocatepe Mosque: This is a recently
constructed mosque of great size in ARTSANOCULTURE
classical Ottoman design with four Ankara isacenter foropera, ballet,jazz
minarets.Builtbetween1967and 1987in andmodemdance,aswellashomeofthe
theKocatepequarter,itssizeandprominent prestigious Presidential Symphony
situationhavemadeitalandmark. PresidentialSymphony Orchestra.Ankaraalsohasalargenumber
Orchestra of theatres staging many ambitious
PARKS productions. In addition to public and
Ankara has many delightful parks and private galleries throughout the city,
openspacesestablishedintheearlyyears exhibitions are also held at the Ataturk
of the Republic in accordance with CulturalCenter.Thecityalsohasmany
Ataturk'sbeliefintheimportanceoftrees cinemas showing the best Turkish
andnaturalbeauty.Themostimportantof and foreign films, and there are a
theseparksare:Gem;likPark(whichalsohas number of film festivals on various
an amusement park), the Botanical Gar-
themesthroughoutthe year,in particular top of Atakule (125 meters) there is a
the International Film Days in March. magnificent view over the whole city.
EveryyearinAprilandMaythecityhosts Thereisalsoarevolvingrestaurant where
theSevdaCenapAndInternationalArts thecompletepanoramacanbeenjoyedina
andMusicFestivalwithperformancesby more leisurely fashion. The Galleria, in
thefinestTurkish and foreignmusicians. Umukoyand Bilkent Center are other
TheChildren'sFestivalonApril23isalso modemshoppingopportunities.
quite an event, with groups of children
fromallovertheworldtakingpan. There ENVIRONSOFANKARA
is also an International Cartoon Film Twenty-five kilometers to the south of
Festival and the ASian-European Arts AnkaraontheKonyaroadisGolbasrlake,
Biennialscheduledsometimeinthespring a popular place to visit for its attractive
or summer. Altm Park is home to the scenery and itsfinelakeside restaurants.
AnkaraFairgroundswherelovelyfairsare lncek. 15 km southwest ofAnkara,isa
heldyear-round. favoriterestareaforAnkararesidents,with
itslovelyfruittrees,greenareasandpicnic
sites.Another favoriteplacefor picnicsis
SHOPPING
KaragolLake,68kmnorth ofthecuyon
Visitorstothecityusuallyliketovisitthe
theairportroad,forwhichoneshouldtake
old shops in Crknkcrlar Yokusu near
thetumoffforthetownofCubuk.
Ulus. The street of copper workers
The three dams around the city, Cubuk
(Bakrrcrlar Carsrsr) is particularly
(15 km on the Cankm Highway),
popular,andmanyinterestingoldandnew
Kurtbogazr (50 km on the Istanbul
items, notjust of copper,can be found
Highway) and Baymdtr (15 km on the
here,such asjewelry, carpels, costumes,
Kmkkale Highway)arepleasant placesto
antiquesandembroidery.Walkingupthe
visitforswimmingand picnicking.There
hill to the citadel gate, you find many
arealsorestaurants,andatBaymdrr.good
interesting shops selling spices, dried
camping facilities. Other darns in the
fruits,nuts,andallmannerofproduce;the
Ankara province include Sanyer,
selectionishugeand veryfresh.Modem
Kesikkopru, Htrfanli. Asartepe. and
shopping areas are mostly found in Alakulc Camhdere.
Krzrlay,onTunalillilmiAvenue,includ
Walkerswilldelightinexploringthethree
ingthe modem mallofKarum,and in
mainforestsaroundAnkara.Southofthe
theAtakuleTowerinCankaya.Fromthe
city,onthe KrrsehtrHighway(54km).is