Trends 2006

27 Pages·2006·7.53 MB·English

Titel_x5_E 07.09.2006 10:43 Uhr Seite 1
E51280
COSMETICS
SPRAY-TECHNOLOGY
MARKETING
Ingredients
Ever more sophisticated
slimming actives
Packaging
Airless packaging –
No shortage of new ideas
Marketing
Exciting concepts for
nutritional supplements
VIP of the Month
Interview
Dr. Markus Meder
on innovation
Trends 2006 9/2006
www.cossma.com
Cos0609_Pentapharm 21.08.2006 10:59 Uhr Seite 1
PENTAPHARM
–
Contour your eyes to perfection.
PEPHA®-TIGHTtightens the skin immediately
and has in parallel a long term effect increasing SYN®-COLL– the first synthetic peptide
the formation of collagen-I. toboost collagen synthesis via TGF-β.
PEPHA®-TIGHTis a highly purified biotechno- SYN®-COLL– outstanding efficacy
logically produced extract from the microalga against all types of wrinkles has been
Nannochloropsis oculata combined with a well shown in clinical trials.
balanced fraction of polysaccharides.
ns
o
nicati
u
m
REGU®-AGE– for ageless youthful looking m
o
c
eyes. Delays the visible signs of premature n
e
skin aging. eis
REGU®-AGEimproves micro-circulation nn
e
and strengthens the native Collagen and br
Elastin matrix. ner
u
gr
Pentapharm Ltd, Engelgasse 109, P.O. Box, CH-4002 Basel/Switzerland, Phone: [phone], Fax: [phone], www.pentapharm.com
Edi_E 06.09.2006 16:04 Uhr Seite 3
EDITORIAL
Attractive
curves
... and what can be done
about them!
At last it seems that the summer has arrived. This
year we went from winter straight into summer, with
no transition period, and now we are in the season
when sun care is a topical subject. Whilst the EU
Commission is engaged in attempting to ensure
better labelling of sun care products (see COSSMA
6/2006, page 18), the European, American, Japa- ser University in Burnaby* and published in the Psycho-
nese and South African cosmetics industries, all re- neuroendocrinology journal (volume 31, issue 6, pages
presented by their local trade associations, have 715 to 723). The amount of curvature in the female body
now agreed an international test method for SPF le- depends to a large extent on the time of the year. During
vels because they see SPF as one of the most im- the summer and autumn the fat around the hips moves to-
portant criteria in the buying decision. The unified wards the waist and so tends to obscure those typical fe-
test method will initially come into use in Europe, male curves. It seems that this phenomenon is the result
Japan and South Africa. In the USA, although the of changes in the testosterone level, which is much higher
FDA requirements envisage a different test method, in autumn than in the spring. It is an interesting fact that in
the international method will be supported by the spring the difference between a woman’s waist and hip
American cosmetics industry. measurements is greater than it is in the autumn, and hen-
ce the curves are more pronounced. Although this diffe-
If, because of the seemingly interminable winter, rence may be hardly visible it can be assumed that women
you didn’t manage to get your body into good sha- become more attractive in the spring with their more pro-
pe for bikinis you may be interested to know that fe- nounced bodily contours. What can be done to eliminate
male curves, at least, are the result of hormonal va- some of those less attractive rounded contours is detailed
riation. by Angela Kleiner of Sederma, starting on page 20.
This interesting finding was made by Canadian re- I hope you enjoy reading this month’s COSSMA
searchers led by Sari van Anders of the Simon Fra- Yours
Angelika Meiss
Download-
Senior Editor
Service
Der exklusive Service für
unsere Abonnenten:
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und 65können Sie sich unter
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herunterladen.
User: cossma
Passwort: personal Cossma 7I2006 3
(Juli)
Inhalt_E 06.09.2006 16:05 Uhr Seite 4
contents
03 Editorial
(cid:2) NEWS
06 Markets + Profiles
08 New Products
10 Ingredients
12 Packaging
20
I Increasingly complex 14 Aerosols + Machines
and sophisticated slimming
(cid:2) FOCUS
Body care
18 The way ahead for body care –
optimum care in minimum time
20 Angela Kleiner, Sederma: Slimming actives –
new and more complex concepts*
26 (cid:2) MARKETING
I Amanda
24 Tablets, drinks and lotions in the services
Lintott of Mintel
of beauty*
presents 26 Amanda Lintott, Mintel:
This month’s most exciting product innovations
27 Star of the Month:
Skin care timed to the hormonal cycle
(cid:2) PRODUKTION
28 Gordon Christ, NRC:
Active that synchronises the skin’s biorhythm
30 Airless systems conquer the cosmetics market*
20
32 Contract manufacturing – where is it going?
I
34 Dr. Ludger Fischer, AC Serendip:
Summer-Style
Exhibition highlights at Achema 2006
and much more
(cid:2) SERVICES
16 Company Publications
36 Essential oils: Price list
37 Formulations: Products for mature skin
32 39 Events Diary
I The results of our COSSMA survey 40 International B2B Exchange
42 Book Service
43 Suppliers‘ Guide
49 Company Index
49 Advertisers‘ Index
50 Masthead Page
50 Preview
*Leading articles I Coverphoto: Estée Lauder
Cos0609_Coster 21.08.2006 11:01 Uhr Seite 1
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News_E 07.09.2006 11:23 Uhr Seite 6
NEWS PRODUKTNEUHEITEN
Colgate Time Control with its
practical, clean dispensing closure sys-
tem for the 40+ generation helps pre-
vent receding gums and so reduces the
risk of tooth loss. Launch: 5/2006,
about €2.79
Vitamin E helps avoid receding gums
Paris
Foto: Colgate-Palmoliv Oréal
L’
o:
ot
F
NEWS
L’Oréal Paris I Body Expertise has
now launched a gel spray with a draina-
ge ac-tion that refreshes the legs by way
of a thermal shock. Called “Perfect Slim
body care and dental care
Anti Heavy Legs” it is based on Pro-Drai-
nyl, an ac-tive complex containing caf-
feine and horse-chestnut extract which
stimulates the micro-circulation, helping
to purify the blood whilst toning the an-
kles, calves and knees. Launch:
3/2006, about €10.50
Garnier I Bodytonic SOS 14 Day Cel-
lulite Cure is a 14-day ampoule treat-
ment that is specifically designed to ba-
nish unsightly orange-peel skin using
actives such as caffeine, ginkgo and
horse-chestnut extracts. Launch:
4/2006, about €12.00
14 day ampoule treatment for orange-
peel skin
Foto: Sensodyne ProSchmelz
GlaxoSmithKline I The Sensodyne
Artdeco I Crackling Cooler for Legs & Feet
ProEnamel toothpaste is a new concept
in Artdeco's 4-part Get Fresh range is a ting-
in combating enamel erosion, the prime
ling foam that fizzes on application and con-
cause of sensitive teeth and tooth wear.
tains menthol for a long-lasting cooling ef-
It increases the micro-hardness of the
fect. Cool & Fresh is an in-vigorating aqua-
tooth enamel, and with 1,450 ppm of
spray with orange oil and herbal extracts for
fluoride it helps remineralisation. A de-
the face, neck and bust area. Get Fresh Sho-
sensi-tising potassium salt helps prevent
wer Mousse is a creamy shower foam, and
the pain of sensitive teeth. Launch:
Cooling Eye Mask with natural cucumber
4/2006, about €3.49
extract consists of moisturising pads for the
eyes. Launch: 5/2006, be-tween about € Protects the tooth enamel from acid at-
6.80 and €9.50 tack
Foto: Artdeco
6 Cossma xI2006
Cos0606_Degussa 17.05.2006 9:56 Uhr Seite 1
creating essentials
Goldschmidt Personal Care
Competence in Mineral Sunscreens
with TEGO® Sun:
Powders and Dispersions for
O/W and W/O Emulsions with
UV A and UV B Protection
(cid:2) TEGO® Sun TAQ 40,TEGO® Sun TDEC 45:High solids dispersions of microfine titanium dioxide.
(cid:2) TEGO® Sun T 805,TEGO® Sun TS plus,TEGO® Sun Z 500,TEGO® Sun Z 800:Microfine powders for UV A
and UV B protection.
www.degussa-personal-care.com [email protected] International Inquiries:
Goldschmidt GmbH
Essen,Germany Phone:[phone] Fax:[phone]
News_4sp_E 06.09.2006 16:06 Uhr Seite 6
NEWS PRODUKTNEUHEITEN
New mini-tube Airless
Lameplast I have developed Rexams I With the help of its
a small tube suitable for multi- patented container fitting techni-
use application of products that que for Rexam’s Sof’Airless pis-
must be locally and precisely ap- ton-driven dispensers residual air
plied in small amounts. The tu- is expelled from the filled contai-
bes, in sizes 2, 3, 4 or 5 ml, can ners during assembly. Ranging
be fitted with any one of three from 2.5 to 50 ml in size, the
dispenser-applicators. A tube Sof’Airless dispensers come in
with a convex applicator and transparent, translucent or me-
central orifice enables the pro- tallized containers featuring a va-
duct to be easily rubbed into the riety of colours. The system uses
skin. The flat applicator with cen- Rexam’s popular SP24 and
tral orifice allows the contents to SP343 pump mechanisms. The
Wide choice of airless dispensers for lotion products
be evenly applied to the skin or system requires no special filling
lips. The version with a micro- equipment. Filled from the top,
cannula allows the user to apply with or without a purge ring, it is snap-on pump, features benefits sistant to aggressive product for-
very small amounts of product to one of the simplest operations in such as 100 percent product mulations because of its all-plas-
the industry. The package is deli- protection, large-dose, high-vis- tic construction. No gaskets,
Spot-on dispensing with vered as a complete package cosity capability, multi-position elastomers, or metal parts come
the mini-tube with pump, collar, cap and bott- dispensing, complete bottle de- into contact with the pack con-
le. Manufacturers need only sign flexibility, and easy filling for tents. The SP943 pump lets the
press the pump/cap sub-assem- high productivity. It combines end-user easily apply large do-
bly in place and the airless sys- Rexam’s SP943 airless snap-on ses of very viscous lotions or
tem is completely fitted and seal- pump with a multi-layer barrier gels. Sof’Bag can also be fitted
ed, resulting in increased pro- pouch. The pouch can be made with Rexam Dispensing Sys-
ductivity. The airless system ope- of polyethylene or as a composi- tems’ Y150 spray pump for
rates effectively in every position. te of aluminum and polyethyle- spray applications.
Sof’Bag with an SP943 airless ne. The SP943 is extremely re-
a very specific target area. The
container itself can be supplied, Emollients for demanding jobs
for example, in pearlised or day-
glow colours, or even with glitter Zschimmer & Schwarz I tial of SLES based formulations.
particles, and can be screen have recently expanded their Ox- They are also used as emollients
printed. The versatile containers ypon range with the addition of and/or solubilisers for oils and
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6 Cossma 7I2006
Cos0609_Alcan 21.08.2006 11:07 Uhr Seite 1
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Koerperpflege_E 06.09.2006 16:07 Uhr Seite 3
PRODUCT DEVELOPEMENT FOCUS: BODY CARE
The way ahead for body care –
optimum care in
minimum time
Russia, 123.6 million Dollars in Spain
Because women regard an attractive appear- and 280.9 million Dollars in France
ance as very important, and yet do not willingly sales were up by 25.8 percent, 17.2
devote much time to the necessary routines, percent and 14.3 percent respectively.
high-performance body care products are Yet despite the success of firming
much in demand. Currently enjoying a buoyant anti-cellulite products in the coun-
market are firming anti-cellulite products and tries named above, in the USA, Italy
line extensions in the foot care sector. and Latin America significant falls
were at times recorded. In the USA
sales fell by 9.4 percent to 96.9 million
It’s something of a paradox, but ac- new products in the bath and shower Dollars, in Italy by 1.3 percent to 168.8
cording to Gillette’s new Beauty category in 2005 – 61 less than in the million Dollars and in Latin America
Study 87 percent of women regard previous year. In terms of sales value by 0.8 percent to 64.8 million Dollars.
an attractive appearance as an impor- the sector has, with sales of 23,492
tant factor in building a successful ca- million US Dollars, grown by 2.9 per- Marketing partnerships
reer, and yet most of them have very cent according to Euromonitor. Al- with fashionable shoe
little time for beauty care. Most though bath-time is seen as one of the brands?
women spend no more than 30 min- most important wellness routines at “Now that cosmetics manufacturers,
utes a day on such things. In fact 4 per- home the sale of bath additives fell by after their successes in the facial and
cent of women devote a mere 10 min- 1.5 percent to 3,425.3 million US Dol- body care markets, are now focussing
utes a day or less to beauty care. On lars. Some of the biggest falls were on foot care, we can expect to see them
average the time spent on personal seen in the USA, where sales fell by 7.9 forming partnerships with well-known
care and beauty routines is about 45 percent. In Russia, on the other hand, shoe brands,” says Claire Briney, Se-
minutes. 50 percent of women spend sales went up by 12.2 percent. In Spain nior Account Manager Cosmetics and
up to 30 minutes a day, 37 percent too sales of bath additives had a suc- Toiletries at the Euromonitor market
need up to an hour, and 8 percent take cessful year, growing by 6.4 percent. research organisation. “For instance
more than an hour. Amongst the Following the successful growth in Dr. Scholl’s, the health shoe brand, al-
younger women interviewed (those sales of facial care products many so has a range of pedicure prepara-
between the ages of 14 and 29) 53 manufacturers are now focussing very tions with lotions, creams and scrubs.
minutes was the longest amount of much on body care products. As a re- It is quite feasible that brands such as
time spent on such matters. But it’s sult we can increasingly see facial care Nivea and Oil of Olay get together with
exactly when time is so short that ranges being extended to include shoe brands such as Birkenstock or
women need products that produce body care products. Sales of firming Doc Martens. We can also see deodor-
optimum results in a minimum anti-cellulite products, according to ant brands making inroads into the
amount of time. Euromonitor, grew in 2005 by about 9 foot care market.” s
If we take a look at how many new percent and represented the most dy-
products in the various categories namic skin care category after anti-
were launched around the globe last ageing. It is interesting to note that
year it should give us a good indicator national developments in this field
of whether that category is enjoying have not run along parallel lines but
increasing demand or not. According the sector enjoyed particular popular-
to Mintel’s Global New Products Data- ity in Russia, Spain and France where
base (see page 26) there were 5,073 sales of 32.2 million US Dollars in
Cossma 7I2006 3