TRAVELS AMONG THE DENA TRAVELS AMONG THE DENA Exploring Alaska’s Yukon Valley FREDERICA de LAGUNA A McLellan Book university of washington press Seattle & London This book is published with the assistance of a grant from the McLellan Endowed Series Fund, established through the generosity of Martha McCleary McLellan and Mary McLellan Williams. Copyright © 2000 by the University of Washington Press Printed in the United States of America All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data de Laguna, Frederica, 1906– Travels among the Dena : exploring Alaska’s Yukon Valley / Frederica de Laguna. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references (p. ) and index. ISBN0-295-97902-x (alk. paper) 1. Yukon River Valley (Yukon and Alaska—Description and travel. 2. Koyukon Indians. 3. Ingalik Indians. 4. de Laguna, Frederica, 1906– Journeys—Yukon River Valley (Yukon and Alaska) I. Title. F912.Y9 D43 2000 917.98’6—dc21 99-054538 The paper used in this publication is acid-free and recycled from 10 percent postconsumer and at least 50 percent preconsumer waste. It meets the minimum requirements of American National Standard for Information Sciences— Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSIA39.48-1984. this book is dedicated to the memory of my companions on the yukon, armond john eardley, kenneth gorton, and norman reynolds, who have preceded me up the great river CONTENTS List of Maps and Plans xiv preface xvii A Note on Spelling Athabaskan xx to alaska 1. 3 The Undertaking 3 On the Track of the First Americans 3 The Party 5 Outfitting 5 Meeting in Seattle 7 Freight Problems 7 The Voyage 9 The U.S. Geological Survey 9 Stories About the Chandalar Kutchin 11 Prince William Sound 14 Excursion to Fairbanks 15 A Stop at Anchorage 15 Matanuska Farmers 16 The Alaska Range 17 Fairbanks: The Campus Site and Ester Creek Placer Mine 19 Hindsight 23 getting started 2. 25 Nenana on the Tanana River 25 Our First Camp 25 Building the Skiffs 27 vii viii contents The Dena and Their Neighbors 30 The Early Explorers and Other Sources 30 Athabaskans of the Middle and Lower Yukon Valley 32 Neighboring Tribes and Distant Relatives 34 The Tanana Indians in Early Reports 36 The Nenana Indians of 1935 39 Friendly Visits 39 Recording Myths and Other Lore 42 A Wedding Feast and Dance 43 adventures on the lower tanana 3. 47 Amateur Boatmen 47 Last Jobs and Loading the Skiffs 47 Swift Waters 47 Further Adventures: An Unplanned Bath 50 Titus Alexander of Baker Creek 54 Telegraph and Telephone in the Wilderness 56 Hot Springs Slough and Hot Baths 58 Harper Bend: The Murder of 1878 61 Harper Bend 61 Early Traders 61 Schwatka’s Version of the Murder 62 Mercier’s Version of the Murder 63 McQuesten’s Version of the Murder 65 A Sequel to the Murder 66 The Mouth of the Tanana 67 Nuklukayet or NukuloRoyet 67 The Trading Grounds in 1867 68 The End of the Trading Grounds 70 tanana mission and the yukon above 4. 72 Tanana Mission and Town 72 Tanana Mission 72 A Little Ethnography 73 A Little Archaeology 76 The Yukon Above Tanana Mission 77 contents ix The Kutchin 77 The Fort Yukon Indians, 1847–50 77 The Fort Yukon Indians in 1867 82 Tanana Station 88 the middle yukon: 5. tanana mission to ruby 91 The Tozi 91 A Vain Hunt 91 Trading Posts in the Tanana–Tozi Area 93 Nuklukayet #3: The Old Station in the 1880s 94 From the Tozi to the Nowitna 97 New Old Station: Mosquito Troubles 97 Kalland 100 The Palisades: Boneyard of the Ghosts 100 The Birches: A Possible Homicide? 102 Mouse Point 103 The Nowikakat Trading Grounds 105 Zagoskin at Nowikakat, 1843 105 Dall and Whymper at Nowikakat, 1867 106 Nowikakat Canoes 108 The End of a Long Day 110 the middle yukon: 6. ruby to bishop rock 113 Ruby 113 Dago Kid Brown’s Dog Ranch 114 Rabbits 117 The Melozi River 118 Old Melozi 119 Charley Knox’s Mother-in-law from Nulato 119 Old Louden to Bishop Rock 121 Fish Camps 121 Old Louden 124 Captain Jacobsen at Old Louden, 1882 125
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