GEAR: BEST OF THE BEST WILDLIFE-VIEWING TOUR ADVICE TThhee MMaaggaazziinnee ooooffff LLLiiifffeee oonn tthhee LLaasstt FFrroonnttiieerr TRAVEL ALASKA IN 2018! Make your dream a reality BBeeaarrss UUpp CClloossee Juneau on the Luxe Skating in Cordova AKMMG_171200_COVERS.indd 1 10/9/17 12:31 PM 130155-XX-41.indd 1 9/25/17 12:11:17 PM AKMMG_171200_0C2-007.indd 2 10/10/17 12:38:47 PM 7BBA Inupiat Ulu with Bowl $41.95* 5BBA 6BBA 5” Ulu with Bowl 6” Ulu with Bowl $25.95* $31.95 131323-AK-6.indd 1 2/2/16 4:25:47 PM AKMMG_171200_0C2-007.indd 1 10/10/17 12:38:57 PM Request a Catalog! 137679-XX-31.indd 1 10/9/17 4:09:38 PM AKMMG_171200_0C2-007.indd 2 10/10/17 2:54:31 PM THE PERFECT ESCAPE TThhee ppeerrffeecctt eessccaappee For your next corporate retreat, family reunion, or board meeting. Take a 3D tour stillpointlodge.com 239328-XX-1.indd 1 10/11/17 2:08:51 AM AKMMG_171200_0C2-007.indd 3 10/11/17 8:34:30 AM KKnnoowwnn ffoorr iittss ddeennssee wwooooll,, lloonngg gguuaarrdd hhaaiirrss aanndd rriicchh ccoolloorr,, nnoorrtthheerrnn NNeeww YYoorrkk SSttaattee bbeeaavveerr ffuurr iiss ssoommee ooff tthhee fifinneesstt iinn tthhee wwoorrlldd.. AAddiirroonnddaacckk BBeeaavveerr BBllaannkkeettss iinnvviitteess yyoouu ttoo ddiissccoovveerr oouurr ttrruullyy uunniiqquuee lliinnee ooff lluuxxuurriioouuss bbllaannkkeettss,, fifinnee aappppaarreell aanndd hhoommee aacccceennttss.. 136455-XX-21.indd 1 10/5/17 4:44:36 PM AKMMG_171200_0C2-007.indd 4 10/10/17 12:39:01 PM 12.17- 01.18 VOLUME 83, NUMBER 10 A black wolf on the Denali Park Road. Photo by: MICHELLE THEALL / michelletheall.photoshelter.com FEATURES 72 2018 Travel Planner Make your Alaska dream a reality By M.T. Schwartzman 64 Bears in Close Proximity The Alaska trifecta for bear-viewing vacations A photo essay by Michelle Theall 55 AKMMG_171200_TOC.indd 5 10/9/17 5:38 PM 12.17- 01.18 DEPARTMENTS “Th is is a compact gem exquisitely The Cache presenting all 22 Seven Reasons to Visit things Alaska.” 24 Volunteering on Vacation 26 Smoked Salmon Recipe -JUNEAU ON THE LUXE KARIN LEPERI 29 Alaska’s Future Stewards P. 44 30 The Year Ahead Escape 62 36 Sense of Place A Day on the Ice KENNECOTT 38 Rambles 46 Wildlife-Viewing Tour Advice JUNEAU Adventure 44 Try This Juneau on the Luxe 48 Sportsman Fish and Bear 50 Out There That Alaskan from Texas 54 Gear The Best of the Best PLUS: 8 My View North 12 Letters 14 Alaska Exposed 18 On the Edge 58 Natural Alaska 60 History P 62 Community SA E 95 Alaska Interview CR M 96 Where in Alaska TO P: O T RI; E P E L N On the Cover: Tourists enjoy a spectacular view of Mendenhall Glacier on a helicopter RI A fl ightseeing excursion out of Juneau. -Photo by Mark Kelley / alaskastock.com M: K O T T O B 6 ALASKAMAGAZINE.COM DECEMBER/JANUARY 2018 AKMMG_171200_TOC.indd 6 10/9/17 5:38 PM THE ROLEX DEEPSEA Built for extremes and capable of withstanding depths of up to 3,900 metres, exceeding the demands of professional divers. It doesn’t just tell time. It tells history. OYSTER PERPETUAL ROLEX DEEPSEA rolex oyster perpetual and deepsea are ® trademarks. 119742-ROL-11.indd 1 9/14/17 1:22:07 AM AKMMG_171200_0C2-007.indd 7 10/10/17 12:39:03 PM Alaska awaits! I Dare Ya ALASKANS ARE SPOILED. WE WATCH MOOSE activities—and so we’d have the best excuse for taking trot through our yards and lynx play on our time off work to play tourist ourselves. porches; hopping into a bush plane or an open For some people, a visit to Alaska is a once-in-a- boat to get to the next town occurs daily; lifetime dream; others return again and again; locals wilderness stretches for hundreds of miles. Our cities know how lucky they are. Whichever camp you’re in, off er a fabulous array of cuisine from all over the world, this issue off ers great advice and inspiration for design- but we also hunt, fi sh, pick berries, and grow our own ing that adventure, including our 2018 Travel Planner food. We enjoy four distinct seasons. And yet, as spoiled (page 72), tips on bear and other wildlife viewing as we are by this bounty, no one is jaded. (pages 38 and 64), and suggestions for a luxurious I never tire of standing outside on a cold winter night experience in Juneau (page 44). to watch the aurora swirl overhead, or of seeing a black Here’s hoping everyone who dreams of exploring bear munch fresh spring grass on a mountainside. Th e Alaska has the chance—or makes the chance—to do mere mention of a road trip always excites my so. Go ahead, spoil yourself and your family this new wanderlust, even if I’ve visited the destination before. year. I dare ya. Th ose of us born here as well as the transplants live here because we love it. Most of us wish our friends Susan Sommer R E from afar would visit more often so we could play tour Editor M M guide and recommend our favorite places and [email protected] SO N A S U S Y S E RT U O C 8 ALASKAMAGAZINE.COM DECEMBER/JANUARY 2018 AKMMG_171200_MVN.indd 8 10/2/17 12:59 PM
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