EYEWITNESS TRAVEL TOP 10 NORMANDY 10 Evocative World War I I sites 10 Spectacular areas of natural beauty 10 Unmissable drives & tours 10 Best hotels for every budget 10 Haunts of famous artists 10 Best beach resorts 10 Traditional Norman festivals 10 Best shops & markets 10 Most fun places for children 110 Insider tip0s for every visitor YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING c h e O u s d ’ u x g e P a y C a A u s Northeastern Normandy pp76–83 Gamaches Normandy Dieppe This Top 10 Travel Guide to Normandy divides the E n g l i s h Londinières region into four areas. This map shows their loca- Nppo9r6t–h1w03estern Normandy C h a n n e l Fécamp d SEINE- tion and extent. Each area is colour-coded; colour Barfleur Etretat MARITIME Pa Byrsa yde bands on the pages covering each one correspond Cherbourg Yvetot to the colours shown on this map. Every place Valognes Central Normandy Le Havre Bolbec e Cléres Argueil Cotentin pp86–95 Rouen mentioned in the book has a map reference, which Carteret Honfleur Jumièges takes you to the large maps on the front and back Boos Bayeux Arromanches- Deausville Pont- flaps. There are also street maps of central Caen MANCHE les-Bains Audemer Les Andelys Lessay and Rouen on the back flap. Caen Lisieux St-Lô Bernay EURE Vernon Coutances CALVADOS d Giverny Thury-Harcourt Orbec Evreux Îles Chausey Gavray NoSrumisasnede Falaise ’ Granville PViollêeldeiseu-les- Vire Flers Gacé Nonancourt Avranches Argentan Dreux Mortain Mont- ORNE Sées St-Michel Domfront Mortagne- Carrouges au-Perche Le Perche Alençon Fougères Alpes Mancelles pp106–113 Mayenne 30 miles 0 km 30 Château Gaillard and village of Les Andelys Southern Normandy P a y P a y Seine Western Normandy Rossaler E n g l i s h C h a n n e l Cap de la Hague Port Racine Pointe de St-Germain- Omonville-la-Petite Barfleur des-Vaux Dur-Ecu Nez de Gruchy Querqueville Barfleur Jobourg DE NCAHCÂQTUEAEUVILLE g Vauville Cherbourg Flotemanvile- £ Hague St-Vaast- la-Hougue Île de Tatihou B a Flamanville Les Pieux Valognes Quinéville Le Rozel Montebourg Négreville Bricquebec Îles St-Marcouf Fierville- S let-VSiacuovmeuter- Ste-Mère- dPuo iHntoec Port-en- Carteret les-Mines Église Grandcamp- Bessin Barne Pvlaillgee- Barneville-CarutNateret M4 aEisyAMERICAN CCEMoElTleERvYille- A Portbail cr Carentan sur-Mer Longu La Hedas airye £ Issuigr-nMy-er Le Breuil- Bayesuur-x en-Bessin Lessay St-Jean-de-Daye Tournières Marchésieux CERISYA-BLBAA-FYÔER DEET AMBBOANYDE Périers CHÂTEAU Villiers-Fossard Balleroy DE PIROU St-Lô Gouville-sur-Mer Marigny £ La Vacquerie Caumo Canisy CHÂTEAU l'Évent DE GRATOT Agon-Coutainville Savigny Coutances Condé-sur- Saussey Cerisy-la-Salle Vire Montmartin-sur-Mer La Ferrière- M A N C H E Harang Trelly Abbaye de Hambye Campeaux Le Bény-B Percy Bréhal Gavray Îles Chausey Donville-les-Bains Mesnil- P Rogues Granville Vire Va Villedieu-les- St-Pair-sur-Mer Poêles La Haye- Pesnel Tinchebray Carolles Sartilly St-Pois Brécey Sourdeval Yv Avranches Brouains Cancale Genêts £ St-Quentin- Bellefontaine St-Malo Vains sur-le-Homme g Mont-St-Michel Pontaubault Montgothier Mortain Courtils La Haute-Chape Beauvoir Servon Ducey Milly E Dol-de- St-Hilaire-du-Harcouët 4 0 Bretagne £ Pontorson St-Martin- St-James de-Landelles Le Teilleul Western Eastern Louvigné- St-Fraimbaul Normandy Normandy du-Désert see back flap St-Brice- Landivy HAUTE- en-Coglès NORMANDIE Ambr Gorron BASSE- L NORMANDIE Fougères M A Y E 20 10 miles 0 km 10 20 se d ni tn ler et oC e N17 6 ( h c a h d e B o c a g N176 e a a P a y s m O B a V h UtahBe a ) 3 N E ( N174 é l l e o u t P o r t s m hc 1 3 1 N N13 (E3) D é ro u a t l e 7 d A e d e g N137 4 ) l 3 E 8 4 a s s a P ( e ( E 3 ) a V ire 3) ( E P o o l e , P o r t s m o u t h i r A84 (E3) e 8 4 V N175 A N175 i a 1 A84 (E401) e d e r S 3 N a l n it Coten ( 6 ) V a P a M 1 ) UNITED KINGDOM KEY BELGIUM GERMANY Top 10 place of interest LUX. NORMANDY PARIS Other place of interest Strasbourg k Airport Rennes Orléans Dijon g Ferry port A Otlcaenatnic Nantes F R A N C E SWITZERLAND £ Main train station Lyon Motorway Bay of Biscay Bordeaux Grenoble ITALY Main road Other road Toulouse Nice Railway Marseille Departmental boundary Mediterranean S P A I N Sea Hermeville i e d e l a S e i n e Le Havre C DHE ÂFTILEIAÈURES Bolbec Airport Harfleu3r k CHÂTEAU D’ORCHER Lillebonne Le Havre £ g Cap de la Hève Pont de Normandie Colombiers- Courseulles- Honfleur Berville-sur-Mer sur-Seulles sur-Mer Villerville Arr loems-Banaicnhses- J n u Sstu-Ar-uMbeinr- Deauville Trouville-sur-Mer Beuzeville PAoundte-mer Luc-sur-Mer £ Touques ues- Mer Mont Canisy CANAPVILLE St-André-d’Hébertot Crépon x £ Fontaine- Cabourg Houlga t e 112m St- CGHaÂTbEAriUe Dl-EB LrAéNcTHyEUIL CreullyHTheanoryn BRievlala- PEOGgAuSiUsSt rBeRIhDaGEm MDievres-sur- eBne-aAuumgeonPto- nt-l'ÉCvêoqrmueilles St-dGue-oVriègverse- Audrieu Bénouville Putot-en-Auge E A DYE ABBAYCE aDe’AnRDENNE Ranville Clermont-en-Auge Moyaux Lieurey Tilly-sur- Airportk £ Caen TVroicatornt-PontfoBl euvroCna-menb-rAeumger Hermival-les-Vaux Seulles £ Lisieux Thiberville Moult Crèvecour- toént- Villers-Bocage Évrecy St-Sylvain MéCziadnoonn- en-Auge ST-GERMPAaIN-yDsE-L IdVE’TAuge Bernay COUPESARTE C A L V A D O S St-Pierre- Fervaques Aunay-sur- sur-Dives Odon Thury-Harcourt Vendeuvre Livarot Orbec Broglie Potigny Bocage Suisse Vimoutiers Clécy Normande Falaise ontécoulant Pont-d’Ouilly Camembert Monnai assy Condé-sur- Trun Noireau Roche d’Oëtre Bazoches-au-Houlme 120m Putanges-Pont- Silly-en- Gacé y Flers Ecrepin Gouffern Haras National Argentan du Pin vrandes Fromentel Ecouché Belou-en-Houlme O R N E Briouze Château d’O Le Merlerault Moulins- la-Marche Rânes elle Domfront BoucéMortrée SéesCourtomer SoTlriagpnpy-ela- La Ferté-Macé Lignerolles Carrouges Juvigny-sous- Bagnoles- Andaine de-l'Orne Château de Carrouges Le Mêle- sur-Sarthe Mortagne- lt Ceaucé Couterne Lalacelle au-Perche Lassay-les- Pré-en-Pail Pacé Le Perche Châteaux Mont des Avaloirs Alençon Pervenchères ières-les- 417m St-Germain- £ e Vallées du-Corbeis Villaines- St-Céneri-le-Gérei Mamers Bellême N N E la-Juhel Alpes Mancelles Mayenne A 1 o G a l cBd hc a Parc Rég i ona l Normandie-M For An F d’Ec i R o eh o r d a c h N158 aine dêatindes o ourêvets e l s w S e B N13 Orn e N176 e e Si n h N158 u q N158 u o e T s N138 A28 (E402) N S 1 2) a ( 8 3 4 0 r N138 (E402) E t A13 (E46) h e e h N15 d ’ O u c t ô C A13 (E46) P a y s N12 h s i l g n E l F e ) ( 5 d eF Nsa olVia raiesc eh 1 E s e s N12 e n n a h C e i r u e l 1 Be N13 N26 N12 DK EYEWITNESS TOP 10 TRAVEL GUIDES NORMANDY FIONA DUNCAN & LEONIE GLASS Left Caudebec-en-Caux Right Canoeing on the Risle Contents Normandy’s Top 10 Produced by DP Services, Mont-St-Michel 8 31 Ceylon Road, London W14 0PY Bayeux Tapestry 12 Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore Printed and bound in Italy by Graphicom Honfleur 16 First published in Great Britain in 2004 by Dorling Kindersley Limited Abbaye de Jumièges 18 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL A Penguin Company Cathédrale Notre-Dame, Reprinted with revisions 2006 Rouen 20 Copyright 2004, 2006 © Caen 24 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London All rights reserved. No part of this Deauville and La Côte publication may be reproduced, stored Fleurie 26 in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or D-Day Beaches 28 otherwise, without the prior written permission of the copyright owner. Pays d’Auge 32 A CIP catalogue record is available from Fondation Claude Monet, the British Library. Giverny 34 ISBN 13: 978-1-40531-239-4 ISBN 10: 1-40531-239-4 Moments in History 40 Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy of quality or popularity is Areas of Natural Beauty 42 implied. All 10 are, in the editor’s opinion, of roughly equal merit. Parks and Gardens 44 The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regulary. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, Great Britain WC2R 0RL. Cover: All photographs specially commissioned except: Front - Alamy Images: Robert Harding Picture Library Ltd main image; DK Images: Anthony Souter clb, bl. Spine - DK Images: Anthony Souter. Back - DK Images: Max Alexander cl, c; Anthony Souter cr. 2 Contents Left Pays de Caux Right Honfleur Norman Abbeys 46 Around Normandy Artists in Normandy 48 Northeastern Normandy 76 Writers in Normandy 50 Central Normandy 86 Museums and Galleries 52 Northwestern Normandy 96 Culinary Highlights 54 Southern Normandy 106 Gourmet Restaurants 56 Markets 58 Streetsmart Spas and Resorts 60 Practical Information 116 Unspoilt Villages 62 Places to Stay 126 Arts and Crafts 64 General Index 134 Forests 66 Acknowledgements 140 Activities for Children 68 Phrase Book 142 Outdoor Activities 70 Festivals and Events 72 Town Index 144 Left Beaumont-en-Auge Right St-Céneri-le-Gérei Following pages Le Vieux Bassin, Honfleur harbour 3 Contents NORMANDY’S TOP10 Normandy Highlights 6–7 Mont-St-Michel 8–11 Bayeux Tapestry 12–15 Honfleur 16–17 Abbaye de Jumièges 18–19 Cathédrale Notre-Dame, Rouen 20–23 Caen 24–25 Deauville and La Côte Fleurie 26–27 D-Day Beaches 28–31 Pays d’Auge 32–33 Fondation Claude Monet, Giverny 34–37 Top 10 of Everything 40–73 NORMANDY’S TOP 10 Normandy Highlights Normandy brings a dozen different images to mind: William the Conqueror, the D-Day landings, Mont-St-Michel; the bleak landscape of the Cotentin coast, the sparkling summertime playground of the Côte Fleurie; sumptuous châteaux, historic abbeys, famous gardens; the orchards of the Auge, the picture-postcard scenery of the Suisse Normande; Monet’s home at Giverny, the Cabourg immor- talized by Proust – or perhaps it’s cider, calvados and camembert. Whatever your list, it will barely scratch the surface of this rich and rewarding region. Port Racine Barfleur Cherbourg Val de Saire Valognes B a i e d e l a S e i n e C o t e n t i n Mar aN Ccra arteret SÉtgeli-sMeère- Arrom leasn-Bchaeinss- BDea-Dchaeys Carentan 8 Mont-St-Michel Bayeux 2 Now iconic in its fame, this Lessay Tapestry s moolintaurmy eronctakl daobmbeinya btedc abmy eit sa Périers B St-Lô C6aen place of pilgrimage when St Coutances Évrecy Aubert built an oratory here over Thury-Harcourt 1,000 years ago (see pp8–11). Gavray Villedieu-les- Clécy Bayeux Granville Poêles Vire N oSrumi sasned e Tapestry Flers Unique historical Brécey Avranches isdhoicnugm weonrtk; aosf taornt.- 1 Ducey Mortain The Tapestry tells StM-Moincth-el Domfront the story of the Ceaucé Bdaeg-ln’Oorlense- Norman Conquest of England in 1066 Fougères (see pp12–15). Abbaye de Jumièges These magnificent, eerie ruins – a subtle blend of Romanesque and Gothic architecture – are Honfleur the remains of A magnet for artists today as the Benedictine it has been since the 19th century, abbey founded by this picturesque maritime town St Philibert in the was also an important centre of 7th century (see trade (see pp16–17). pp18-19). 6 s ne i tdn elt oeC ed asir u t ca o g e aPrcRégionalNomrandei - N176 N13 (E46) N13 (E3) N158 N174 A84 (E3) Normandy’s Top 10 A84 (E3) N175 a P A84 (E401) s y d P e