EYEWITNESS TRAVEL TOP CUBA CHRISTOPHER P. BAKER 001_Top_10_Cuba.indd 1 27/06/2016 15:50 Top 10 Cuba The Top 10 Highlights of Everything Welcome to Cuba ...........................5 Moments in History .....................36 Exploring Cuba ...............................6 Revolutionary Sites .....................38 Cuba Highlights............................10 Moments in La Habana Vieja, Havana .............12 Fidel Castro’s Life .....................40 The Modern City, Writers and Artists .......................42 Havana ......................................14 American Legacies ......................44 Cordillera de Museums ......................................46 Guaniguanico ............................16 Santería ........................................48 Zapata Peninsula .........................18 Nature Trails ................................50 Trinidad .........................................20 Animals and Birds ......................52 Jardines del Rey ...........................24 Beach Resorts ..............................54 Camagüey.....................................26 Children’s Attractions ..................56 Holguín .........................................28 Musical Styles ..............................58 Santiago de Cuba .........................30 Places to Meet Baracoa ........................................32 the Locals .................................60 Cuban Dishes ...............................62 Things to Buy................................64 Cuba for Free ...............................66 Festivals and Holidays .................68 002-003_Top_10_Cuba.indd 2 27/06/2016 15:50 CONTENTS Cuba Streetsmart Area by Area Havana ..........................................72 Getting To and Around Cuba .....120 Western Cuba ...............................84 Practical Information .................122 Central Cuba West .......................92 Places to Stay .............................128 Central Cuba East ......................102 The Far East ...............................110 General Index .............................134 Phrase Book ..............................142 The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements, and travel information, are Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy liable to change. The publishers cannot of quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, accept responsibility for any consequences in the editor’s opinion, of roughly equal merit. arising from the use of this book, nor for any Throughout this book, floors are referred to in material on third party websites, and cannot accordance with American usage; i.e., the “first guarantee that any website address in this floor” is at ground level. book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and Front cover and spine Former Summer Palace, suggestions of our readers very highly. Palacio del Valle at Punta Gorda in Cienfuegos Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Back cover Trinidad backed by the Sierra del Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, Escambray mountains London WC2R 0RL, UK, or email Title page Beach with palm trees on Cayo [email protected] Levisa Island 002-003_Top_10_Cuba.indd 3 27/06/2016 15:50 004-005_Top_10_Cuba.indd 4 27/06/2016 15:50 Top 10 Cuba ❮❮ 5 Welcome to Cuba From high-kicking showgirls at the Tropicana cabaret to murals of Che Guevara, sensuality and socialism rub shoulders as defining aspects of Cuba. Add the world’s best cigars, plus classic cars cruising cities frozen in the 1950s, and it’s no wonder this Caribbean island is a hot destination. With Eyewitness Top 10 Cuba, it’s yours to explore. Havana – the irrepressible capital city – awes us with its stunning architecture and sense of being a yesteryear Hollywood stage set. Walking the cobbled colonial streets of La Habana Vieja is a journey back through the centuries, while Vedado recalls the wealth of a glittering pre-revolutionary heyday. Chock-full of outstanding museums, art galleries, and lively bars where Ernest Hemingway drank his mojitos and daiquiris, Havana is a world-class city throbbing to the rhythms of rumba and salsa. Cuba is a marvelously diverse island, from the stunningly beautiful Valle de Viñales, where oxen plough tobacco fields, to the gorgeous beaches of Cayo Coco. Well-preserved colonial-era cities such as Trinidad and Camagüey – both UNESCO World Heritage Sites – echo the footsteps of conquistadores. In the east, Santiago de Cuba is known for its iconic revolutionary sites and a culture that owes much to its predominantly African heritage. Beyond the forest-clad Sierra Maestra lies charming Baracoa, founded in 1511 and boasting a jaw-dropping setting surrounded by mountains. Whether you’re planning a week’s visit or a longer stay, our Top 10 guide reveals the best of everything that Cuba can offer, from María la Gorda in the west to Punta Maisí in the east. You will find tips throughout, from seeking out what’s free to finding the best private restaurants, plus five easy-to-follow itineraries designed to tie together a slew of best sights in a short space of time. Add inspiring photography and detailed maps, and you’ve got the essential pocket-sized travel companion. Enjoy the book, and enjoy Cuba. Clockwise from top: Playa Ancón; Gran Teatro, Havana; divers in María la Gorda; street in Trinidad; Cuban cigars; Ford Fairline car; musicians at La Bodeguita del Medio, Havana 004-005_Top_10_Cuba.indd 5 27/06/2016 15:50 6 ❯❯ Top 10 Cuba Exploring Cuba Cuba boasts a remarkable capital city, gorgeous beaches, and exquisite colonial towns. Whether you simply want to immerse yourself in Havana or go farther afield, these two- and seven-day itineraries will help you make the most of this fascinating country. seHe masevaHeap ma nrviagaaphM nrtiugahMsteuoseoEstrEescthreoc dheo ldae F llao rFildoarida ArcAhirpcihéilpaigéola gdoe dSae b Saanbaa na ErnEersnt eHsetm Hienmgiwnagyway ARATREMTEIMSAISA MAMYAAYBAEBQEUQEUE VILVLIALL CAL CALRAARA MAMTAATNAZNAZSAS CayCoayo PlayPala dyea dloes los EnsEennsaednaa ddea ldae B lrao Baroa RemReedmioedsios GuiGlleurilmleormo FlamFlaemnceonscos Key ZapZaatpaa Ptean Pinensuinlasula CIECNIEFNUFEUGECOiGeSnCOfiueSnegfuoesgos SCalanSCrtaalaanrtaa PedPreadprlaénplénJdaerdlJd aRineredely RisneeysArchAiprciéhliapgiéol daeg oC ade Ca TSwevoe-nd-adya iyt iintienrearrayry MGiuróMGseniuroóseno SSPASÍRSNPAIÍCTRNTUICITSTUIS CIECGIEOGO magümeyagüey VallVea dllee ldoes lIonsg Ienngioensios DED ÁEV ÁILVAILA TrinTirdinaiddad CACMAAMGAÚGEÚYEY GolGfoo dlfeo de AnaA Mnaa rMíaaría CamCaamgüaegyüey 0 ki0lo kmileotmeresters 5050 Cayo Guillermo offers white-sand beaches and 0 m0il emsiles 5050 perfect coral reefs. Day 2 Two Days in Havana MORNING Explore the quaint colonial plazas of La Day 1 Habana Vieja (see pp12–13), starting MORNING with Plaza de Armas (see p72) and Hop aboard the Havana BusTour the Catedral de La Habana (see p73). (see p120) and enjoy an overview AFTERNOON sightseeing tour of the entire city. Wander along Calle Mercaderes (see You can alight at any sight you wish p74) to reach Plaza Vieja (see p73). to visit; another bus will be along Charming Calle Brasil then connects soon, and it’s all covered by one you to Plaza de San Francisco (see all-day ticket. p74), with its magnificent basilica. AFTERNOON Visit the Modernist Palace of Fine Arts, part of the Museo Nacional Seven Days in Cuba de Bellas Artes (see p74) for its remarkable collection of Cuban art, Days 1 and 2 and Museo de la Revolución (see Follow the two-day Havana itinerary. p75), for a profile on the Revolution. Explore Parque Central (see p75) Day 3 and walk Paseo de Martí (see p76). Visit the Museo Ernest Hemingway End the day with a sunset stroll (see p76), then head east via the along the Malecón (see p76). Zapata Peninsula (see pp18–19), 006-007_Top_10_Cuba.indd 6 27/06/2016 15:50 Exploring Cuba ❮❮ 7 Trinidad is a pretty town where cobbled streets are lined with pastel-colored buildings. seHe masevaHeap ma nrviagaaphM nrtiugahMsteuoseoEstrEescthreoc dheo ldae F llao rFildoarida ArcAhirpcihéilpaigéola gdoe dSae b Saanbaa na ErnEersnt eHsetm Hienmgiwnagyway ARATREMTEIMSAISA MAMYAAYBAEBQEUQEUE VILVLIALL CAL CALRAARA Catedral de La Habana, a gorgeous Baroque EnsEennsaednaa ddea ldae B lrao Baroa MAMTAATNAZNAZSAS RemReedmioedsios GuiGlleuCrialmlyeCooramyoo PFllaamyPFallaea dmyneace odlnosecs oloss edifice, is set in ZapZaatpaa Ptean Pinensuinlasula MGiuróMGseniuroósCenIoECNIEFNUFEUGECOiGeSnCOfiueSnegfuoesgosVaSClallVaenaSCr dtalalaleaen r ldtaoaSesS PlIonASÍsgRS NPIenAInÍCTgRiNoeTUInsCITSioTUsIS DPeECdD PIrÁEeaECdVpG IrÁlEIaéOLnVpGAlIéOLnJAdaerdlJd aRineredely RisneeysArchAiprciéhliapgiéol daeg oC admeO aCgaülmedyag üHeyavaMnaal.ecón Museo deC alanal de En00t rmyaaderadtesrs 550000 TrinTirdinaiddad CACMAAMGAÚGEÚYEY PaseMoa drteí RevoluCciaótnedral de PAlramzaa sde La Habana AGnoaAl GfMnooaa dl frMeoíaa dreía Museo Nacional Calle de Bellas Artes Brasil 0 ki0lo kmileotmeresters 5050 CamCaamgüaegyüey CPearnqturael HABLAANA MercadCearleles 0 m0il emsiles 5050 VIEJA Plaza Vieja Havana Plaza de San Francisco stopping for lunch before calling at (see pp26–7). Admire the city’s Museo Girón (see p19) for a history recently spruced up historic center, lesson on the Bay of Pigs invasion being sure to include charming (see p41). Travel to the port city of Plaza del Carmen. Cienfuegos (see p94) and admire the buildings around Plaza Martí Day 6 before dinner at the astonishing Start early and head across the Palacio del Valle (see p99). Pedraplén (see p25) to the Jardines del Rey (see pp24–5). Laze on your Day 4 choice of glorious beaches and swim Drive to Trinidad (see pp20–21) in the warm turquoise sea at Playa to immerse yourself in its delightful de los Flamencos or on the island colonial mystique as you wander of Cayo Guillermo (see p24). around Plaza Mayor. After lunch, continue exploring Trinidad’s cobbled Day 7 streets. End your day by cooling off Head west to Remedios (see p95) at Playa Ancón (see pp104–5). to savor its colonial ambience, then continue to Santa Clara (see p94). Day 5 View the Monumento del Che Journey via the scenic Valle de los (see p39), beneath which the Ingenios (see p103) and follow the remains of revolutionary hero Carretera Central to the UNESCO Ernesto “Che” Guevara (see p41) are World Heritage city of Camagüey interred, before returning to Havana. 006-007_Top_10_Cuba.indd 7 27/06/2016 15:50 Top 10 Cuba Highlights Catedral de La Habana, Havana 008-009_Top_10_Cuba.indd 8 27/06/2016 15:50