EYEWITNESS TRAVEL TOP 10 CRETE 10 Best beaches 10 Unmissable museums & ancient sites 10 Spectacular areas of natural beauty 10 Best traditional tavernas 10 Most exciting festivals 10 Liveliest bars & clubs 10 Best hotels for every budget 10 Most charming villages 10 Fascinating monasteries & churches 110 Insider ti0ps for every visitor YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING TOP 10 CRETE ROBIN GAULDIE EYEWITNESS TRAVEL TT-CT_000-001_Title Page.indd 1 8/8/07 9:376:0431 AM Left Dolphin fresco, Knosos Right Rethymno harbour Contents Crete’s Top 10 Ancient Knosos 8 Irakleio 12 Produced by Blue Island Publishing Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore Irakleio Archaeological Printed and bound in China by Leo Paper Museum 14 Products Ltd Chania 18 First American Edition, 2003 07 08 09 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Phaestos 20 Published in the United States by Rethymno 22 DK Publishing, Inc., 375 Hudson Stret, Gortys 24 New York, New York 10014 Samaria Gorge 26 Reprinted with revisions 2005, 2007 The Amari Valley Copyright 2003, 2007 © Dorling Kindersley Limited and Mt Idi 28 Al rights reserved under International and Pan- Gournia 30 American Copyright Conventions. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval Moments in History 32 system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, Ancient Sites 34 electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior written permission of the Art and Archaeological copyright owner. Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited Museums 36 Folklore Museums 38 ISSN 1479-344X ISBN 978-0-75662-574-0 Venetian and Turkish Within each Top 10 list in this book, no Castles 40 hierarchy of quality or popularity is implied. Churches and All 10 are, in the editor’s opinion, of roughly equal merit. Monasteries 42 Floors are referred to throughout in Beach Resorts 44 accordance with British usage; ie the “first floor” is the floor above ground level. Islands and Boat Trips 46 The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, Great Britain WC2R 0RL. Front – Alamy Images: Peter Adams main; DK Images: Max Alexander cl; Robin Gauldie bl. Back – DK Images: Max Alexander tl, tr; Nigel Hicks tc. Spine – DK Images: Nigel Hicks. 2 Key to abbreviations Adm admission charge payable Free no admission charge TT-CT_002-003_USK._inCdodn t e 2nts.indd 2 89/8/07 93:4540:0420 APM Contents Left Plakias Right Tavernas, Chersonisos Villages 48 Streetsmart Areas of Natural Beauty 50 Getting To and Mountain Walks 52 Around Crete 116 Wildlife 54 General Famous Cretans 56 Information 117 Things to Avoid 118 Myths and Legends 58 Music and Instruments 60 Special Interest Holidays 119 Festivals and Events 62 Eating and Drinking Markets and Shopping Tips 120 Streets 64 Shopping Tips 121 Food and Drink 66 Budget Ideas 122 Restaurants 68 Families and Disabled Tavernas 70 Visitors 123 Cafés and Ouzeries 72 Banking and Nightlife 74 Communications 124 Health and Security Around the Island Tips 125 Central Crete 78 Places to Stay 126 Western Crete 90 Eastern Crete 102 General Index 132 Left Castle, Paleochora Right Siteia harbour Following pages Siteia beach 3 TT-CT_002-003_USK._inCdodn t e 3nts.indd 3 89/8/07 93:4540:0423 APM Contents TT-CT_004-005_Opener.indd 4 8/8/07 9:5409:243 AM CRETE’S TOP 10 Highlights of Crete 6–7 Ancient Knosos 8–11 Irakleio 12–13 Irakleio Archaeological Museum 14–15 Chania 18–19 Phaestos 20–21 Rethymno 22–23 Gortys 24–25 Samaria Gorge 26–27 The Amari Valley and Mt Idi 28–29 Gournia 30–31 Top 10 of Everything 32–75 TT-CT_004-005_Opener.indd 5 8/8/07 9:5409:2448 AM CRETE’S TOP 10 Highlights of Crete Although it could not be more Greek, Crete is really a country within a country, with its own history, folklore and traditions. It was the birthplace of Europe’s oldest civilization, the enigmatic Minoan culture which flourished over 4,000 years ago. Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Saracens, Venetians and Turks also left their mark. This rich human heritage is set against the backdrop of magnificent mountain scenery and beaches lapped by a deep blue sea. Irakleio @A good place to see a slice of everyday Greek street life, Crete’s capital is an eclectic mix of medieval Venetian fortifica- tions, bustling markets and Ancient Knosos modern streets (see pp12–13). !Knosos is among the most impressive 3ODWDQLDV &KDQLD Mreleicdsit eorfr athne aann cient ..LVDVVDWPHOROLX $OLNLDQRV 6RXGD 4FB P G $ S F U F world. The Minoan 3DQRPRV palace was #(!. )! *HRUJLRXSROL 5HWK\PQR imaginatively 2PDORV 3HUDPD reconstructed in the early 20th 6D*PRDUUJLHD 2%4(9-./ $Q century (see 3DOHRFKRUD pp8–11). &KRUD6IDNLRQ 3ODNLDV 6SLOL $9DPODHU\L NJMFT LN $JLD*DOLQL £IArarckhleaieoo logical .FE J U 4FFS SBBOFBO 3K0DDHWVDWODRV Museum Crete’s leading museum houses amazing finds from Knosos and other great archaeological sites (see pp14–15). Chania Once the island’s $ capital, this pretty little harbour town, Phaestos with good beaches %One of the most important nearby and lots of Minoan palace sites in Crete, open-air restaurants Phaestos is a fascinating maze and shops, makes a of walls, stairways and court- great base for yards on a hillside overlooking exploring Crete’s wild the Messara plain and the Libyan west (see pp18–19). Sea (see pp20–21). 6 TT-CT_006-007_Flashmap .indd 6 9/8/07 15:01:0549 PM J E* P S 0 Crete’s Top 10 S J 0 L B - F G Rethymno ^Crete’s third largest city is packed with remind- ers of a multi-layered history. A huge castle, Turkish mosques, Venetian town-houses and bustling markets are part of the charm, along with a beach esplanade (see pp22–3). Samaria Gorge Gortys *The “White Mountains” of The bases of & the Sfakia region dominate toppled Roman southwest Crete. This rugged columns, the ruins of massif, most of which can only a Byzantine basilica, be explored on foot, as there are post-Minoan few roads, is cloaked in pine fortifications, an trees and traversed by the lovely agora, acropolis and Samaria Gorge (see pp26–7). remains of temples to Athena and Apollo all hint at the chequered past of Gortys (see pp24–5). QRPRV )RGHOH ,UDNOHLR /LPLQ 4FB P G $ S F U F &KHUVRQLVRV 0DOLD $QRJHLD .QRVRV 1HDSROLV 6LWHLD 9DL .DVWHOL $JLRV1LNRODRV 6NRSL .ULWVD 9DUYDUL ) 2 !+,% )/ *RXUQLD V $JL*RRL UW\V $QR9LDQQRV 0,DN!U\J3LDO)R4V ( ) =DNURV 'HND ,HUDSHWUD .FE J U F S S B OFBO 4FB The Amari (Valley & Mt Idi Old-fashioned villages, empty mountain pano- ramas and legend- Gournia laden caves seem )The best preserved like part of a Minoan town on Crete, different world, has a honeycomb-like and can easily be labyrinth of tiny houses explored with a and narrow lanes sur- rented car or rounding a small palace escorted coach overlooking the Gulf of tour (see pp28–9). Mirabello (see pp30–31). 7 TT-CT_006-007_Flashmap .indd 7 9/8/07 15:012:042 PM J L JE* U J 0 S P T % TPS0 Crete’s Top 10 Ancient Knosos Knosos is steeped in mystery and enchantment. In legend, it was the seat of King Minos, beneath whose palace the bull-headed Minotaur hunted its victims in the labyrinth built by Daedalus. In reality, it was the hub of a Bronze Age empire that held sway over the Aegean more than 4,000 years ago. This part of the Knosos story only began to be unearthed at the beginning of Dolphin Frescoes the 20th century, when British archaeologist Sir £The queen’s rooms were lavishly decorated Arthur Evans began excavations of the site. with frescoes of leaping dolphins and well equipped Top 10 Sights with a bath and even a flush lavatory. 1 Central Court 2 Piano Nobile 3 Dolphin Frescoes 4 Storehouses Central court 5 South Portico 6 Great Staircase If possible, visit 7 Hall of Double Axes Knosos in spring or 8 North Entrance Passage autumn, when cooler weather makes 9 Throne Room exploring more 0 Bust of Sir Arthur Evans pleasant than in high summer. But if you are holidaying in Central Court peak season, get to !All Minoan palaces the site as soon as it were built around a opens, before most central courtyard. This coach tour groups would have been the hub have arrived. of the complex and would probably have been used There are several for ceremonial purposes tavernas and snack and for royal audiences. bars within a few The courtyard of Knosos steps of the site has a commanding view entrance, along the of the valley. Storehouses main road to Irakleio. $ The storehouses or Piano Nobile “magazines” contain giant • Map K4 • Route 97, @Evans dubbed this earthenware jars called 5 km (8 miles) south of expansive room on the pithoi, which the Minoans Irakleio upper floor of the palace used to store olive oil, • 2810 231940 building the “noble hall”, olives, grain and • Summer: 8am–7pm believing that it might other supplies. daily; winter: 8am–6pm have been the audience Such jars, with daily • Closed national hall of the ancient a capacity of holidays • Adm €5.50 Minoan kings. Its up to 200 • Disabled access walls are decorated litres, were difficult with copies of the used by later fabulous frescoes of Greeks over agile, leaping bull the next four dancers – the most millennia, and famous images of Knosos. are still made today. 8 TT-CT_008-009_Knossos indd.indd 8 89/8/07 98:5453:5331 AM Crete’s Top 10