To travel here is to encounter men wear

394 Pages·2012·16.6 MB·English

by  Lonely Planet

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

elcome to
W
Myanmar
(Burma)
Surreal & Traditional the edge of a chasm. Ride a horse cart past
colonial-era mansions. Meet multitalented
To travel here is to encounter men wear-
monks who have taught their cats to jump,
ing skirt-like longyi, women smothered
or feisty elderly Chin women, their faces
in thanakha (traditional make-up) and
tattooed with intricate designs.
betel-chewing grannies with mouths full
of blood-red juice – and that’s just at the
Simple Pleasures
airport! One of the most fascinating aspects
of travel in Myanmar is the opportunity to Turn back the clock with a trip to this
experience a corner of Asia that, in many time-warped country where there’s no such
ways, has changed little since British colo- thing as a 7-Eleven or an ATM, and people
nial times. Myanmar, for instance, has yet still use horse and cart to get around. Lib-
to be completely overwhelmed by Western erate yourself from your mobile phone (it
clothing. It’s also a country of many in- won’t work here) and the internet (you can
credible and sometimes surreal sites. Con- get online, but connections are sloooow)
template the 4000 sacred stupas scattered and discover a culture where holy men are
across the plains of Bagan. Stare in disbelief more revered than rock stars. Drift down
at the Golden Rock teetering impossibly on the Ayeyarwady in an old river steamer,
KIM 3
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mmoorree tthhaann aa cceennttuurryy llaatteerr
MMyyaannmmaarr rreemmaaiinnss aa wwoorrlldd
aappaarrtt..
(left) Umin Thounzeh (p 229 ), Sagaing Hill
(below) Fresh produce at a Nyaung U market
PETER STUCKINGS/LONELY PLANET IM
AGES ©
stake out a slice of beach on the blissful Bay at the time of research, had been released
of Bengal, or trek through pine forests to from house arrest. The tourism boycott that
minority villages scattered across the Shan persuaded many to steer clear of the coun-
Hills. Dig into the myriad dishes of the lo- try for over a decade has been lifted. It’s still
cal cuisine, from a hearty bowl of mohinga up to you to decide whether it’s time to visit
noodles for breakfast to the fermented tea- (see p 21 ). Keep in mind that the long-suf-
leaf mixture that’s a popular fi nish to a Bur- fering people are everything the regime is
mese meal. Swap cocktails and canapés for not. Gentle, humorous, engaging, consider-
snacks and tea sweetened with condensed ate, inquisitive and passionate, they want to
milk at teahouses where you can shoot the play a part in the world, and to know what
breeze with locals. you make of their world. Yes, this is Burma –
come with your mind open and you’ll leave
The Ethical Dimension with your heart full.

You no doubt know that Myanmar is a
troubled land. In 2011, following the previ-
ous year’s election, a quasi-civilian govern-
ment was sworn in and Aung San Suu Kyi,
10
TOP CHRISTOPHER GROENHOUT/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©
EXPERIENCES
Shwedagon Paya
1 Is there a more stunning monument to religion in Southeast Asia? We don’t think so. In fact, the
sheer size and mystical aura of Yangon’s gilded masterpiece may even cause you to question
your inner atheist. But it’s not all about quiet contemplation: Shwedagon Paya (p 43 ) is equal parts
religious pilgrimage and amusement park, and your visit may coincide with a noisy ordination
ceremony or fantastic fortune-telling session. If you’re looking for one reason to linger in Yangon
(Rangoon) before heading upcountry, this is it.
SARA-JANE CLELAND/LONELY PLANET IM 7
AGES ©
Inle Lake
2 Virtually every visitor to Myanmar (Burma) makes it here at some point, but Inle Lake (p 177 )
is so awe-inspiring and large that everybody comes away with a diff erent experience. If you’re
counting days, you’ll most likely be hitting the hotspots: water-bound temples, shore-bound
markets and fl oating gardens. If you have more time, consider day hikes or exploring the more
remote corners of the lake. Either way, the cool weather and friendly folk and that placid pool of
ink-like water are bound to fi nd a permanent place in your memory.
ANDERS BLOM
QVIST/LONELY PLANET IM
AGES ©
Bagan
3 More than 3000 Buddhist temples are scattered across the plains of Bagan (Pagan; p 149 ),
site of the fi rst Burmese kingdom. Dating back to between the 11th and 13th centuries, the vast
majority of the temples have been renovated, as Bagan remains an active religious site and place
of pilgrimage. Yes, there are tour buses and crowds at the most popular sunset-viewing spots, but
they can be avoided. Pedal off on a bike and have your own adventure amid the not-so-ruined
temples, or fl oat over the temple tops in a hot-air balloon. Buddhist monks, Ananda Pahto Festival
Pyin Oo Lwin
4 Pyin Oo Lwin (Maymyo; p 250 ) is a one-off curiosity that makes for an easy escape from sweaty
lowland Mandalay. As the former British-era summer capital, it retains a wide scattering of co-
lonial buildings big and small and a remarkable botanical garden that’s one of Southeast Asia’s most
manicured. Today, local tourists and a new generation of elite fl eeing the heat are treated to some of
provincial Myanmar’s best cuisine and most imaginative hotels. And to give it all a photogenic twist,
the local taxi service is by colourful horse and cart. National Kandawgyi Gardens, Pyin Oo Lwin
BERNARD NAPTHINE/LONELY PLANET IM
AGES ©
Mrauk U
5 While exploring the many temples, monasteries and ruined city walls of the former Rakhaing
capital of Mrauk U (Myohaung; p 279 ), you realise what an amazing place this sleepy town
was at its zenith in the 16th century. Giant structures such as the Dukkanthein Paya and Kothaung
Paya appear even more impressive amid the beguiling rural landscape of gently rounded hills and
vegetable fi elds, through which the locals weave their way, aluminium water pots balanced on their
heads. Stay an extra day and travel by boat to the Chin villages (p 286 ) scattered along the Lemro
River. Pagoda in the hills, Mrauk U
DENNIS W
ALTON/LONELY PLANET IM
AGES ©
ZAW
M
IN YU/LONELY PLANET IM
AGES ©
Thingyan
6 Myanmar in April is so hot that you’ll enjoy getting soaked at Thingyan ( Water Festival; p 343 ),
which marks the start of the country’s new-year celebration. The festival involves lots of
drinking, dancing, singing and theatre, with the emphasis on satire – even making (careful!) fun
of the government. Cultural taboos are temporarily lifted, so women can ‘kidnap’ young men,
blacken the men’s faces with soot or oil, bind their hands and dunk their heads in buckets of water
until they surrender and perform a hilarious monkey dance.
Ngapali Beach
7 Take with a pinch of salt the story about this beautiful beach reminding a homesick Italian of
Naples. From its gently swaying palms, luxury resorts and appealing guesthouses to its pristine
sands, tempting blue waters and delicious seafood caught fresh each day by local fi shermen,
Ngapali (p 270 ) is the antithesis of the Italian city. Enjoy it for what it is: the perfect getaway and a
chance to wind down – sunbathing, snorkelling and sipping fresh coconut juice as an ox-drawn cart
trundles slowly across the fi ne, soft sand.
FRANK CARTER/LONELY PLANET IM
AGES ©
Hsipaw
8 Attractive Hsipaw (p 258 ) is ideally placed for quick, easy hikes into fascinating Shan and
Palaung villages. The town’s handful of guides off er just enough English-speaking help to make
the experience comfortable, while the whole region feels far less ‘discovered’ than that around
Kalaw. Hsipaw itself is a historic little town. It was once home to Shan princes and has its own
(very) ‘Little Bagan’ of historic stupas. Fill out a few interesting days here with visits to a curious
assortment of local, house-sized factories. Palaung home
TOM
SM
ITH
RACHEL LEWIS/LONELY PLANET IMAGES © JULIET COOMBE/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©
Kalaw Mt Kyaiktiyo (Golden
9 Boasting an almost Himalayan atmos- Rock)
phere, Kalaw (p 172 ) is Myanmar’s ideal 10 The good things in life never come
base for upcountry exploration. Hiking with
easy. This is particularly so with the
Danu, Pa-O and Taung Yo villagers through the
sweat-inducing, never-ending uphill slog to
forests, fi elds, roads and trails that link the
what is essentially a gilded stone. Sound
town and Inle Lake, you may even forget which
questionable? Perhaps, but if you ask us,
country you’re in. Trekking in the area is also
you can’t say you’ve been to Myanmar if you
one of the few travel experiences in Myanmar
haven’t ascended Mt Kyaiktiyo (p 93 ), home of
in which the authorities don’t seem to mind
the golden rock, the country’s most important
if you stray off the beaten track. Children in
religious pilgrimage site after the Shwedagon
Kalaw
Paya. The journey may be diffi cult, but at the
top you’ll be rewarded by a scene replete with
scenic vistas and a uniquely Myanmar-style
spiritualism.
12 Need to
Know
Currency Language
» Burmese kyat (K) » Burmese
When to Go Your Daily
Budget
Budget less than
$50
» Guesthouse: $10–20
» Local restaurant or
street- stall meal: $1–3
Mandalay Pyin Oo Lwin
GO Nov-Feb##GO Nov-Feb » Travel on buses: $1–5
GOM Orcatu-Mk aUr# #BGaOg Naonv-Feb Midrange
$50–
100
Yangon
#GO Nov-Jan » Double room in
a midrange hotel:
$20–60
» Two-course meal in
midrange restaurant:
$3–15
Warm to hot summers, mild winters » Hiring a guide: $10
Tropical climate, wet dry seasons
per day
» Puppet: $10–50
High Season Shoulder (Oct– Low Season Top end over
(Dec–Feb) Nov, Mar–Apr) (May–Sep) $100
» Rains least (if at all » March to May » The southwest
in places) and is not Yangon often reaches monsoon starts mid- » Double room in top-
end hotel: $60–500
so hot. 104ºF (40ºC). Areas May and peaks from
around Bagan and July to September. » Two course meal
Mandalay are hotter. » The dry zone restaurant plus bottle
of wine: $20–30
» Cooler in the hill between Mandalay
towns of Shan State. and Pyay gets the least » Driver and guide:
» All forms of rain. Rain can make $100 per day
transport booked roads impassable » Fine lacquerware
solid during Thingyan anywhere (especially bowl: $200
in April. in the delta region).
13
Transport
» Buses and trains –
Money both are pretty slow,
» Cash only. Credit Mobile Phones especially trains.
cards generally not Visas » No international Flights to major tourist
accepted. Bring only » Needed by everyone. roaming. Prepaid SIM spots can get booked
pristine US bills for Maximum stay 28 days, cards available for up quickly in high
exchange. non-extendable. locally bought phones. season.
Websites Exchange Rates Arriving in
Myanmar
» Lonely Planet (www. The US dollar is the only foreign currency
lonelyplanet.com) that’s readily exchanged and/or accepted
Yangon International
Good for pre-planning. as payment for goods and services. The
Airport If you haven’t
offi cial exchange rate (US$1 equals around
» Irrawaddy (www. pre-arranged a transfer
K6.5) is less than a tenth of the black-mar-
irrawaddy.org) with you hotel or travel
ket rate, so do not change money at airport
Thailand-based news agent, a taxi from the
exchange booths or at banks. The best plac-
and features site. airport to the city
es to change money in Yangon are Bogyoke
» Myanmar Image Aung San Market (p 67 ) and your hotel. centre will be $8. Bring
Gallery (www. Recent black-market rates in Yangon: single bills with you
myanmar-image.com) (see below) so that you
Pictures and text on Australia A$1 K750 don’t have to change
myriad Myanmar- money in the airport.
Europe €1 K1050
related subjects. Also see p 71 .
Japan ¥100 K9
» Online Burma/
UK UK£1 K1200
Myanmar Library
(www.burmalibrary. US US$1 K785
org) Database of books
and past articles on
Myanmar. Important Numbers
» Demoractic Voice of
Burma (www.dvb.no) Country code %95
Norway-based media
International access code % 00
organisation.
Ambulance (Yangon) % 192
Fire (Yangon) % 191
Police (Yangon) %199
Cash-Only Economy
Myanmar ATMS don't accept international cards. With few exceptions, credit cards and trav-
ellers cheques aren't accepted either. Budget carefully and get the right kind of bills before
your plane lands in Yangon. Otherwise, you'll end up in fi nancial trouble.
US dollar bills must be 2006 or later bills that have colour and are in absolutely perfect
condition: no folds, stamps, stains, writing marks or tears. On the black market, $100 bills
get a better rate of exchange than lower values ones – but bring some of those, too.
We know of only one Yangon hotel (Parkroyal; p 53 ) that is willing to provide cash against
a credit card, but it does so at 12% commission. For more on money matters, see p 364 .