The Wine Bible

930 Pages·2000·131.32 MB·English

by  Karen MacNeil

•
K A R E N E l L
" dazzling, comprehensive,
modern guide to wine,
free of elitism and pedantry.
This thoroughly successful
work sets a new standard
and makes wine more
accessible and user-friendly
than it has ever been before."
- MTfHONY DIAS BLUE,
wine and spirits editor,
BonAppetit
More than 500
hink of this book as a lively
photos, detailed
course from an expe1t teacher,
maps, and charts
grounded d eeply in the funda
The seducti\'e, soulful wines of
mentals and enriched with passionate Chateauneuf-<lu-Papc eloquently
speak of eanh itself, page 248.
asides, tips, anecdotes,
definitions, glossaries,
illustrations, maps, wine
labels everything, in
fact, but the actual wine
itself. By America's
renowned
wine teacher
and authority.
More Praise for The Wine Bible
"Finally, a guide to wine that has all the answers!
A classic."
-BoBBY Ft.A Y, chef and owner of
~ksa Grill anti Bolo restaurant and bar
"The vast subject of wine always leaves neophytes in
the dark. With Karen MacNeil's terrific new book ...
let there be light!"
-0.\\'11> RosE~GAHTE:\, publisher.
Tbe Rose11garlell Report
"Karen MacNeil has 'poured' years of wine experience
onto paper and the result is astounding. Comprehensive,
yet user friendly, this is a definite keeper!"
-Til< >.\lAS KELLER, chef and ownn of
The French Laundry
"Comprehensive is an understatement. Tbe lVine Bible
is an amazing piece of work that will he a boon for
beginning wine lovers and a source of pleasure for
jaded wine fanatics."
-JoYcE GowsTEIN, author, HNO'J1X.il:
Simple, IJelicious Necipes in tbe
1/a//rm Wille Bar 1htdilion
I N E
THE
B I B L E

B I B E
BY KAREN MACNEIL
WORKMAN PUBLISHING • NEW YORK
To Dennis
and to the lesson of red tulips .
Copyright (!) 200 I lly Karrn \laci'icil
All rights rl'M'I'\ ,.,1, :\t1 pno1itJn of thi, lwok ma) Ill' rf'pr()(llll'l'd-mechaniC"all). dc·c·tronically, ur hy UOI)
oth!'r nwuns. including photoC"opying-witlonoot written 1wrnoi,;sion of tlw pooblisiH"r. Poohlishrd ~inoooltn­
n<·ou,ly in Cumub by Thoma, Allen ,<:,-.Son Limited.
l.il>nory uf Cungn·,, Catnluging-in-I'Hblicutiun Data
Muc·Ncil. 1\ar<"n
Til(' wine biblt• I by Karen ~lad\eil.
p. eon.
lnriHtlrs indo·x.
ISBN-1:3: 978-l-56305A:~4-l
I'll '-10: 1-56305--131-5 (alk. paper)
_.IV. I. Wine mod 11 i11c making. I. Title.
TP518.~124 2001
Ml.2'2-<lo·21 2001026519
Cover dc.ign by Paul Gunoarcllo
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30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21
Acknowledgments
0 ne day in 1990, while I was sitting ing pursuit of perfection. In addition to
in my office (then in New York Suzanne and Barbara, I'm also grateful for
City), the phone rang. The voice on Janet Vicario, who took a formidably large
the other end of the line said, "This is Peter manuscript and from it created a com
Workman. I read a piece you wrote in The pelling design for this book.
New YoTk Times. Want to have lunch?" I Many people have provided encour
knew who Peter Workman was, but I cer agement over the years of writing The
tainly didn't know Peter Workman. Still Wine Bible and have also helped me
there's only one response to a question like immeasurably by being loyal friends (new
that At lunch the next day Peter said, "So and old), wise advisors, and wonderful
what book have you always wanted to companions with whom to share the
write?" I was speechless. Books don't hap special gift that a great bottle of wine
pen like that (not to normal writers any undoubtedly is. These include Susan and
way). And so, above all, I want to thank Ed Auler, Kathy and David Best, Barbara
Peter Workman for believing in me, for and Alston Boyd, Meredith Luce Billingsly
kno\ving, even before I did, what was pos and Rusty Billingsly, Bob and Irene
y
sible. Belknap, Bob Cappuccino, David Chalfant,
Also at that lunch was Suzanne Rafer, Eileen Crane and Eric Murray, Nancy and
who would become my editor. The rela Michael Daniels, Joyce Goldstein, Carl
tionshlp of editor and writer deserves a Doumani, Arlene and Smitty Kogan, Lori
book itself, for it is filled with twists and and Harvey Marshak, Susan and Jay
turns, ups and downs, intrigue and emo Magazine, Jim Spingarn, and my three
tion. In the end, a writer prays for an editor dearest friends-Debra Deininger, Pam
who's smart and kind and wise-the sort of Hunter, and Terry Theise.
editor who does everything in her power to I've also benefited from a core of
help you write the best book you possibly excellent assistants whose tasks have
can. Suzanne is that kind of woman, and I been endless and to whom thanks would
can't thank her enough. While many books be not nearly sufficient, given all their hard
may involve a single editor, The Wine Bible work. To Madeleine Albert, Clover Chad
was daunting enough to deserve two. wick, Marion Groetschel, Daylen Jones,
Barbara Mateer went through the book Penny Nann, Emily Richer, and Kay
line by line, word by word, checking and Wilson-thank you for bearing with me
questioning and making me refine, explain, through the long hours, months, and years
rewrite, and polish passages until I could of this manuscript.
barely see straight. I have never met a In the course of writing thls book I've
woman of more formidable intellectual needed the patience and understanding of
discipline, and The Wine Bible is a vastly my editors at magazines as well as that
better book because of Barbara's unrelent- of my colleagues at the Culinary Institute
A C K N 0 W L E 0 G MEN T s _________
of America. For their support over the years of Domaines Schlumberger, who read the
I thank Stacy Morrison, Sara Schneider, Alsace chapter; Martin Sinkoff, of Val
Rosalie Wright, Lisa Higgins, Donna d'Orbieu Wines, who read the Languedoc
Warner, Greg Drescher, Holly Btiwa, Roussillon chapter; Giorgio Lulli, Augusto
Reuben Katz, Mark Erickson, Christina Marchini, Hem1olina Ressa, Fred Marrapodi,
Adamson, Cathy Jorin, Ma..x Duley, Doug and Jin1 Jolmson, all from the Italian Trade
Crichton, and John Buechsenstein. Commission, who, in different ways, each
With writing a book this large comes provided immeasurable help by reading
the fear (usually at three in the morning) and providing information for the Italian
that you've forgotten some essential piece section; Kattin Naelapaa and Louis Broman,
of information or overlooked a critical of Wines from Spain, who read the Spanish
concept or-worse-gotten something section; Bartholomew Broadbent, who read
entirely wrong. And so, early on in the writ the Port section; James Symington, of
ing, I asked numerous colleagues and Synlington Port and Madeira Shippers, who
experts to read selected parts of the fust read the Madeira section; Terry Theise, of
draft, knowing that the book would be Teny Theise Selections, Bill Mayer, of The
stronger for their input. For their generos Age of Riesling, and Carol Sullivan and
ity in doing this, I want to thank: Rory Cindy Krebs, of the German \Vme Worma
Callahan, of Wine and Food Associates, tion Bureau, all of whom read the Gem1an
J
who read a substantial part of the book; section; Willi Balai\iuk and Fritz Ascher, of
winemakers Zelma Long, John Alban, and the Austrian Wine Marketing Board, who
VI Bill Dyer, who read \vinemaking and viti read tJ1e Austlian section; Ben Hawkins, of
-;
culture sections; Margo True, editor at Royal Tokaji Wine Company, Thomas
Gounnet, and viticulturist Daniel Roberts, Laszlo, of Chateau Pajzos, and George
who read Mastming Wine; winemaker Lang, of Lander/Lang Vineyards and Lang
Eileen Crane, who read sections on Gastronomia, all of whom read the Hun
sparkling wines and Chan1pagne; Robin gruian section; Lany Brooks, wine consul
O'Connor, of the Bordeaux Information taJlt, who read the Cameros section; Jim
Bureau, and Fiona Morrison, Master of Trezise, of the New York Wine and Grape
Wine, of the Conseil lnterprofessional du Foundation, who read the New York State
Vin de Bordeaux, who read the Bordeaux chapter; Simon Siegl, formerly of the
chapter; Jean-Louis Carbonnicr, former Washington Wine Commission, who read
director of the Chan1pagne Information the Washington State chapter; winemakers
Bureau, who read the chapter on Cham Steve Cru·ey and David Lett, who read the
pagne; wine merchant and w1iter Kermit Oregon chapter; vintners Susan and Ed
Lynch, who read the chapters on Beau Auler, who read the Texas chapter; Tony
jolais, Alsace, and Languedoc-Roussillon; Bieda, of Horton Vineyards and Mont
winemaker Craig \Villiams, who read sec domaine, atld Peggy Law, of Linden
tions on the Rhone and RhOne varietals; Vineyards, who read tlle Virginia chapter;
Christopher Cannan, of Europvin, and Joel Butler, Master of Wine, and Nick
Patrice Monmousseau, president directeur Bulleid, Master of Wine, of Southcorp
general of Bouvet-Ladubay, who read the Wines, who read the Australian section;
Loire chapter; Jean Trim bach, of F. E. 1'rin1- Lauraine Jacobs, of Cuisine magazine, and
bach, and Eveline Beydon-Schlumberger, Philip Gregan, of the Wine institute of New
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Zealand, who read the New Zealand sec Washington Wine Commission; Tim Dodd,
tion; South African writer and wine critic of the Texas \V"me Marketing Institute;
Allan Mullins, who read the South Africa Marcya Bagnall, of the Oregon Wine
section; and Agustin Huneeus, of Quin Advisory Board; Jeff Pogash, media rela-
tessa, who read the section on Chile. tions manager, Schieffelin and Somerset;
Also 17w \Vine Bible could never have Pasquale Iocca and the staff of t11e
been written without the generous and Portuguese Trade Commission; Marsha
patient assistance of many people who Pal2.Ilci, of Cornerstone Communications;
were willing to constantly supply me with Megghen Driscol, ofSouthcorp Wmcs Norili
facts, data, and research. There were many Amezica; Steve Metzler, of Classical Wines
times when this wasn't as easy as it sounds, of Spain; Jorge Ordonez, of Fine Estates
and so for going to great lengths to help me from Spain; Laura Catena, of Catena \V"mery;
get the infom1ation I needed, I iliank: Nancy Joharmes Selbach, of Selbach-Oster; Ed
Light and the public relations tean1 at Schwartz, of Ed Schwrutz Public Relations;
Robert Monclavi; Nancy Rugus, fotmerly of John Gillespie, of t11e Wine Market Council;
Seagran1 Chateau & Estate Wine Com Lara Zahaba and Sally Congleton, of Wine-
pany; Margaret Stem, of Margaret Stem bow; Georg Riedel, of Riedel Glass; and
Communications; Michelle Annour and Kat!Ueen Talbert, of Talbert Communica
Amy Basle, of Maisons Marques & tions. I would also like to express my grati-
Domaines, and Lisa Somogyi, fozmerly of tude to the staffs of the Wine Institute;
t11at company; Odila Galer Noel, of Freder Foods and Wines from France; the Italian
ick \Vi.ldman; Jan Stuebing, of ilie Australian Trade Commission; \V"mes from Spain; ilie vu
Wine Bureau; Mary Marshall, Sheila German Wine Information Bureau; Balzac
Nicholas, and Mary Ann Sullivan, from Conununications; Old Bridge Cellars; and
Paterno; Tor Kenward and the staff of Kemlit Lynch Wine Merchant
Beringer; Philip eli Belardino, of Banfi; Bar Finally, I want to iliank my American
bara Edelman, of Barbara Edelman colleagues in wine writing who, by being
Communications; Julie Ann Kodmur, public incredibly good at what they do, have chal
relations consultant; Glenn McGourty, viti lenged me to work even harder. Especially
culture advisor for Mendocino and Lake Gerald Asher, Alex Bespaloff, Anthony Dias
Counties; Linda Reiff and the staff of the Blue, Gerald Boyd, Bruce Cass, Mary
Napa Valley Vintners Association; Robert Ewing-Mulligan, Druliel Johnnes, Matt
Sawicki, of Tamalpais Wme Agency; Kramer, Anthony Gismondi, Howard
Mireille Guiliano, Suzanne da Silva, and the Goldberg, Evan Goldstein, Sid Goldstein,
staff of Clicquot, Inc.; Catlueen Burke, Mary Jim Gordon, Josh Greene, Harriet
Ann Dancisin, Sara Powers, and Donna Lembeck, Thomas Matthews, Ed McCarthy,
White, of Kobrand; Kimberly Charles, for Richard Nalley, Steve Olson, Robert M.
merly of Gallo; Shirley Alpert, of t11e House Parker Jr., Frank Prial, Bill Rice, David
of Burgundy; Martine Saunier, of Martine's Rosengatten, Chru·lie Rubenstein, Bill St.
Wines; Mary Davis Barton, of the division of John, Rod Smiili, Hru-vey Steiman, Lettie
marketing of the Virginia Departn1ent of Teague, Bob Thompson, Josh Wesson, and
Agriculture; Steve Burns and ilie staff of the Kevin Zraly.
Contents
INTRODUCTION XIII TASTING WINE LIKE A
PROFESSIONAL . . ......... 98
HOW TO USE THIS BOOK XV
Setting the Scene Get in There and
Sniff Souerkrovt, Skunks, and Sweaty
Socks What Is Taste? Good Wines
MASTERING WINE 1
Finish Lost Color, Sediment, and
WHAT MAKES GREAT WINE Crystals Charting Flavor The End ...
GREAT7 2 but Really the Beginning
Assessing Your Assessment What to
Look For
FRANCE 111
WHERE IT ALL BEGINS 7
France's Wine Lows
Getting from the Grapes to the Glass
Great Wines Don't Come from Just BORDEAUX . . 118
Anywhere Phyl/oxero The Land, the Gropes, and the
Vineyards Making Bordeovx
HOW WINE IS MADE 30 Bordeaux's Subregions The
VIII Making Red Wine Warning: This Lobel Classifications The 1855 Classification
Is Misleading Making Dry White Wine The Medoc Groves Sauternes and
What Oak Does How Barrels Are Borsoc St.-Emilion Pomerol Other
Mode Bottles and Barrels: Hold Regions of Bordeaux Bon Apertif
Everything Making Off-Dry Wine Bordeovx Vintages and the Question
Kosher Wine Making Sweet Wine of Readiness The Foods of Bordeaux
Chaptalization Visiting Bordeaux Chateaux The
Bordeaux Wines to Know Cognac
GETTING TO KNOW
THE GRAPES 48 CHAMPAGNE . 161
The Classic Whites Tasting for Integrity The Land, the Gropes, and the
The Classic Reds Important Grapes Vineyards Making Champagne Styles
A Glossary of Other Grape Varieties of Champagne The Bubbles
Worldwide Comparing Nonvintage, Vintage, and
Prestige Cuvees Types of Champagne
BEFORE YOU TASTE 75 Not with a Bong but o Whisper Bubble
Shop Tolk- How to Buy Wine Wrap Visiting the Champagne Houses
Comfortably How Much Do Vintages The Stars Among the Champagnes
Matter? Where to Store Wine and The Champagnes to Know Colvodos
Where Not To When Is It Ready?
Pairing Wine with Food Cooking with BURGUNDY 187
Wine Temperature Uncorking the Terroir, Monks, and the French
Bottle Corks: Bock to the Futvre Revolution Understanding How
Aerating Wine Decanting Burgundy Works The Gropes and the
Wineglasses Winemoking The Land and the