The Veil as Signifier in Contemporary Art Annique Heijmans 6116531 [email protected] [email protected] May 2011 Universiteit van Amsterdam Master Thesis Art History Nieuwste Tijd The Veil as Signifier in Contemporary Art THE VEIL AS SIGNIFIER IN CONTEMPORARY ART Annique Heijmans 6116531 May 2011 Master Kunstgeschiedenis, Nieuwste Tijd Supervisor: Prof. dr. D. Cherry 2 The Veil as Signifier in Contemporary Art Contents Introduction……………………………………………………….. 4 The Complexity of the Veil’s Significance……………… 7 Previous Art Projects dealing with the Veil…………… 13 Shadi Ghadirian…………………………………………………… 22 Zineb Sedira………………………………………………………… 33 Martine Stig…………………………………………………………. 42 Hussein Chalayan………………………………………………… 50 Conclusion…………………………………………………………… 59 Bibliography………………………………………………………… 63 Images References……………………………………………….. 67 Summary……………………………………………………………… 68 3 The Veil as Signifier in Contemporary Art Introduction This thesis is the final process for the completion of my Master’s degree Art History, Nieuwste Tijd. During my study I have always been interested in how women are depicted in art. The female portrait is a theme that returns in each art historical period. And every period is defined by a new concept and image of the time of the woman. From the Venus of Willendorf (ca. 22,000 BCE) to the mythological figures we can see with the old Greeks and Romans and which are reinvented in the Renaissance, to the women of Rubens, Picasso and the Expressionists, extremes are depicted; the woman represents beauty, sexuality, fertility, nature and passion. She stands for the mother and the domestic life, but also her more obscure, vague personality is time and again visualized. Nowadays one of the most discussed and depicted female figures is that of the veiled, Muslim woman, a subject, which is closely related to current issues as multiculturalism, post colonialism, nationalism, gender politics, integration, Westernization and Anti-‐Westernization and Islamization. In this age of globalization, a shift of focus can be noticed, from our own ‘Western’ culture to that of the worldwide humanity. People from countries all over the world and dissimilar cultures have mingled. People have been relocated over the world, whether for work, or other political or economical reasons. But has met with, differences in cultural conception can lead to certain frictions. Veiling is one of the cultural differences that found a lot of resistance. But as pointed out by the political debates, extensively discussed in the media it is a sensitive topic with many different views. The aim of this thesis is to define the multifaceted structures and different approaches that play part in interpreting contemporary art which includes a Muslim veil in its different forms, from only a headscarf to head to food covering. Art is characterizing the image of time and even looks ahead. How is the veil presented in contemporary art and in what sense the artist reflect on the ethical dilemma veiling has become? Is the veil used as signifier in contemporary art? And if so, how does it function as such? How does the degree of veiling influence our way of viewing? What is the impact if a thick black fabric conceals the whole body? Does it make a difference if only the hair is covered with a vividly patterned headscarf? In the first chapter the veil in art is placed in a historical context. The problems considering interpreting the complex symbolism of the veil in present-‐day are also discussed. The veil has 4 The Veil as Signifier in Contemporary Art become a symbol with a strong socio-‐political connotation. What is it that makes this discourse so complex? What are the different viewpoints considering veiling? Over the last years a few art projects have been organized with the veil as subject. The fixed discourse in Western countries about the Islam turn out to be an inspiration for artists and curators. The different perspectives pointed out by these exhibitions are defined in the second chapter. In which way can art and art projects contribute to the discourse of the veil? In the next chapters the work of four different artists with a different cultural background, and therefore different histories considering the veil, is discussed. In what way have these artists used the veil as a signifier? These case studies illustrate the versatility of the veil as subject and the different approaches in different societies. Is the artist expressing his vision about suppression, exclusion, power, identity, politics or religion with his work or does he address to a personal issue? Which tools do the artists use to make their statement clear? In the art practice of the Iranian artist Shadi Ghaderian (Iran 1974), gender and the veiled woman are returning themes. Iran, the country where Ghaderian is raised and still works, knows changing attitudes to veiling. For each generation veiling has a different meaning. In each of her series Ghaderian points out a different aspect of veiling. Naturally the topic of the veil has to deal with a lot of prejudices. How do artist cope with this? Can they invalidate the stereotype? In the work of Zineb Sedira (Algeria, 1963) the veil is also a recurring subject matter, but Sedira’s work addresses more to the invisible, mental veil. Sedira was brought up between different cultures, Algeria and France, she is very aware of her position as an immigrant, and the hanging between different cultures. The difficulties she experienced considering communication in words and images are depicted in her art. Her work also address to the generation gap between her and her mother and her own daughter. The Dutch photographer Martine Stig (Netherlands, 1972) explores in her artistical practice mainly stereotypes, identity and the function of photography. For the series Sisters, she pictured totally veiled students, in the way we, in a Western sense, are used to record portraits. What is the use of picturing veiled women if their appearance, their identity, is hidden? How do artists deal with the contrast of their own culture and the “other”? How do we look in Netherlands at veiling? Veils and ideas about veiling are specific to different cultures and societies. 5 The Veil as Signifier in Contemporary Art And the last artist that is discussed is the fashion designer Hussein Chalayan (Turkey, 1970) who moves with his conceptual designs between art and fashion. Chalayan is raised in Cyprus, an island standing at the crossroads of three continents. The culture of Cyprus is divided between the two distinct cultures of Greece and Turkey. Each community maintains its own culture. Chalayan tries in his work to cross the cultural borders. Maybe the power relation between the West and the East is best illustrated in fashion; here the differences in conceptions in values are materially represented. Does the Western fashion industry influence the veiling practice of Muslim girls, and the other way round: does the veil as a piece of garment influences the fashion industry? And can it thereby contribute to an acceptance in Western society? There are many more artists that have taken the veil as subject for their art. The artists discussed in this thesis are selected for their difference in cultural background, to illustrate the diversity in approach considering the topic of the veil. I am aware of the complexity of the terminology; which countries actually belong to the ‘Middle East’, what can be considered as ‘Arabic’. Can we define ‘the East’ and ‘the West’? For this thesis I tried to choose the term that applies best in the context it is used. During my research I was confronted with the sensibilities of the discussed issues. In each case I tried to stay as neutral as possible. 1. Anita Kunz, Girls Will be Girls, 2006. 6 The Veil as Signifier in Contemporary Art The complexity of the veilʼs significance For centuries the veil has been used in different cultures as well for cultural, ritual or religious purpose. In the Byzantium veiling was among many a privilege, belonging to women of the upper classes and aspired to by lower class women.1 Veiled women are at all times visualized in art. Most common, and probably the most depicted is the Holy Virgin Mary. These days an image of a veiled woman almost immediately directs to the veiled Muslim women. The veil is now, from a Western stereotypical view, primarily associated with the Islam, gender relations and women’s rights. The mysterious, sexy, exotic, oriental veiled harem girls as we know from the popular nineteenth century paintings of Ingres, Delacroix and Gerome are replaced by women totally covered in thick black fabrics. Nevertheless the fascination for the Eastern women has left unchanged. As the American, Iraqi art historian Nada Shabou outlines in her article, the period following 9/11 marks a turning point in a renewed interest in all things ‘Middle East’, including contemporary art.2 The festish for the veil always have been an absolute binary separating ‘East’ and ‘West’. It evoked, fantasy, exoticism and desire. In the aftermath of 9/11 this shifted from a gaze of desire to that of fear only solidified the binary. The veil became a signifier of Muslim ‘aggression’ against the West.3 The Russian art collective AES art4 visualised the tension between East and West in their art, their work addresses many strategically levels, geographical, economic, cultural and political. The Witnesses of the Future, Islamic Project (1996) was an installation and performance in which AES construct a vision of the role of the Islam in future; they made a visualization of the neologism “Islamophobia” referring to the exorbitant and irrational fear of Islam in Western society. For this project AES was inspired by Samuel Huntington’s popular political paradigm of the mid 1990’s, which proposed a future in which Islamic and Western cultures would come violently into collision.5 Huntington, in his thesis The Clash of Civilizations, argues the fundamental source of conflict would be cultural one, instead of primarily ideological or economic. 1 Kahf, 2008, p 27 2 Shadou, 2009, pp. 14-‐15 3 Shadou, 2009, p. 21 4 AES art group was established in 1987 and comprises three Russian Jewish artists: Tatiana Arzamasova (born 1955), Lev Evzovich (born 1958) and Evgeny Svyatsky (born 1957), all of whom live and work in Moscow. Using wit and satire, AES's digitally manipulated images are storyboards reflecting the deep rooted insecurities of today's postmodern, postcolonial, post Cold War society. 5 www.aes-‐group.org 7 The Veil as Signifier in Contemporary Art AES have taken monuments from Western civilization for example The Big Ben, Centre Pompidou as well as het Groningermuseum and transformed them into a manipulated image taken over by the Islamic world.6 They were promoting a set of fictitious Grand Tours, which would set out in the year 2006 into a radically changed and dystopic landscape. One of the objects they ‘Islamized’ was the Statue of Liberty. AES covered this universal symbol of freedom and liberty with a Niqab and gave her a Quran in her hand (figure 2). In the aftermath of 9/11 this image is often used to illustrate the feared threat of the Islam. 2. AES Art Group, Witnesses of the future. Islamic Project, 1996. 6 www.aes-‐group.org 8 The Veil as Signifier in Contemporary Art The veil is likely to be the most outwardly visible and most publicly contested sign and site of gendered difference in Islamic cultures across the world. And therefore it has become the subject of an over-‐mediated intense legal and political debate. This has leaded to the fact the veil, in Muslim sense, in this era, especially post 9-‐11, in its many forms for instance the headscarf, hijab, burqa or niqab 7, has become a very strong symbol. The veil has now received, next to the religious, an indissoluble political and social connotation. The continuous and discontinuous histories and geographies of the veil are complex, and are subject of much debate across a range of different sites and from different perspectives. Distinctions can be made between intimacy and publicity, between concealing and showing, between hiding and seeing, as well as society’s acceptance and non-‐acceptance. As argued by Jennifer Heath in the introduction to The Veil, an anthology in which women writers from different cultures discuss the veil in the broadest sense: “Today, veiling has become globally polarizing, a locus for the struggle between Islam and the West and between contemporary and traditional interpretations of Islam.”8 The veiling discourse is a discussion that derives from the broader debate on multiculturalism. At the beginning the veil is a piece of garment but it is embedded in a social and political framework and the discussion about being allowed to wear or -‐ not to wear -‐ a veil, has become a complex ethical dilemma. In several Western countries, most particular France but also in the Netherlands, there are headscarf controversies going on, in which opponents try to disallow the wearing of face covering garments for women in public spaces. These “headscarf debates” are controversial and create a lot of opposing reactions and pull the West and East further apart. Opponents see the veil as a threat for the human rights. Another often heard argument is that women who are veiled are believed to slow down the integration. And in our fear for terrorism the argument of safety comes up, we must be able to see what women are hiding underneath their clothes. The Islam sumptuary laws, based upon teachings found in the Qur’an and Hadiths9, tell how men and women are required to be dressed. Women are required to wear a modest outfit; they have to cover their bodies to protect themselves for the male gaze. But that what is qualified as 7 Headscarf (or Hijab or Hidjab): is only for covering the hair and part of the face. Hidjab in Arabic also refers to modesty, privacy and morality. Nikab (or Nikaab, niqab or Niquaab) is an Arabic term for the veil that covers the whole face except for the eyes. Traditionally worn only by orthodox Islamic women. Chador: Is a Persian garment covers the whole body, except from the face to hide feminine forms. Burka (or Burqa): Covers the whole body, also the eyes are hidden behind a net of grill. Under the regime of the Taliban women in Afghanistan were required to wear a Burqa. 8 Heath, 2008, p. 1 9 Hadiths: narrations concerning the words and deeds of the Islamic prophet Muhammad. Hadith are regarded by traditional Islamic schools of jurisprudence as important tools for understanding the Qur’an and in matter for jurisprudence. 9 The Veil as Signifier in Contemporary Art ‘modest’, and therewith the levelling of veiling varies in different Muslim societies; each country has its own native tradition. Each Muslim state is culturally, politically economically and socially different. Also because of migration these differences become visible. Women who even wear a headscarf, hijab, in a ‘Western’ society can be confronted with a lot of prejudices like: she is truly dedicated to her religion, she is very conservative, is suppressed by the males of her family, she has had no education and is ignorant. Pamela K. Taylor, who calls herself a modern Muslim and is co-‐founder of Muslims for Progressive Values, writes in a personal essay, she wears a hijab as a clear statement, she did not want to be judged by her body, her beauty or the lack thereof, but as an individual, for her personality, her character, and her accomplishments. For her veiling was also a rejection of the objectification of women.10 She quickly found out that this was paradoxical and that she swapped from the one objectification in to the other. From a Western view we sometimes look at veiled women with a compassion or condescending sympathy. You could say veiled women are victimized. But for many women, not living in a regime where veiling is required, veiling can be a well-‐considered choice of their own. Every woman has her own reason to be veiled. Considering the subject of the veil, personal stories are significant in understanding and to broaden up the debate. The experiences of the veiled women are more important than the interpretations of academics and politicians. Rita Stephan has grown up in Syria as a conservative Christian, moved on the age of sixteen to the United States and is now as academic researcher promoting multicultural understanding. In her text Virtue and Sin she explains her situation as an unveiled woman living in a veiled society. Stephan gives four different perceptions of how the veiling of women symbolizes conservatism and social control among Muslims. Some Muslims consider all women’s private references to shame, weakness, and immaturity and therefore they have to cover themselves. Others consider women equal to men in rights and responsibilities; veiling for them is just an act of modesty. A third group argues that veiling is not an indicator of oppression but a preventive and protective measure for social control. The veil prevents men from looking at women to desire them; therefore it protects their souls from falling into sin and prevents social problems. A fourth group claims that conservative attitudes, including veiling, were reactions to imperialism and colonialism. Western cultures swept away many aspects of Middle Eastern and Muslim traditions. They felt the need to maintain their girls’ honour as an authentic and pure cultural 10 Taylor, 2003, pp. 120-‐122 10
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