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The  Veil  as  Signifier  in   Contemporary  Art                   Annique  Heijmans     6116531     [email protected]   [email protected]     May  2011       Universiteit  van  Amsterdam     Master  Thesis  Art  History       Nieuwste  Tijd The Veil as Signifier in Contemporary Art       THE VEIL AS SIGNIFIER IN CONTEMPORARY ART Annique  Heijmans   6116531                                     May  2011   Master  Kunstgeschiedenis,  Nieuwste  Tijd   Supervisor:  Prof.  dr.  D.  Cherry                       2 The Veil as Signifier in Contemporary Art       Contents   Introduction………………………………………………………..   4   The  Complexity  of  the  Veil’s  Significance………………   7   Previous  Art  Projects  dealing  with  the  Veil……………   13   Shadi  Ghadirian……………………………………………………   22   Zineb  Sedira…………………………………………………………   33   Martine  Stig………………………………………………………….   42   Hussein  Chalayan…………………………………………………   50   Conclusion……………………………………………………………   59   Bibliography…………………………………………………………   63   Images  References………………………………………………..   67   Summary………………………………………………………………   68         3 The Veil as Signifier in Contemporary Art       Introduction   This  thesis  is  the  final  process  for  the  completion  of  my  Master’s  degree  Art  History,  Nieuwste   Tijd.  During  my  study  I  have  always  been  interested  in  how  women  are  depicted  in  art.  The   female  portrait  is  a  theme  that  returns  in  each  art  historical  period.    And  every  period  is  defined   by  a  new  concept  and  image  of  the  time  of  the  woman.  From  the  Venus  of  Willendorf  (ca.  22,000   BCE)  to  the  mythological  figures  we  can  see  with  the  old  Greeks  and  Romans  and  which  are   reinvented  in  the  Renaissance,  to  the  women  of  Rubens,  Picasso  and  the  Expressionists,   extremes  are  depicted;  the  woman  represents  beauty,  sexuality,  fertility,  nature  and  passion.  She   stands  for  the  mother  and  the  domestic  life,  but  also  her  more  obscure,  vague  personality  is  time   and  again  visualized.       Nowadays  one  of  the  most  discussed  and  depicted  female  figures  is  that  of  the  veiled,  Muslim   woman,  a  subject,  which  is  closely  related  to  current  issues  as  multiculturalism,  post  colonialism,   nationalism,  gender  politics,  integration,  Westernization  and  Anti-­‐Westernization  and   Islamization.  In  this  age  of  globalization,  a  shift  of  focus  can  be  noticed,  from  our  own  ‘Western’   culture  to  that  of  the  worldwide  humanity.  People  from  countries  all  over  the  world  and   dissimilar  cultures  have  mingled.  People  have  been  relocated  over  the  world,  whether  for  work,   or  other  political  or  economical  reasons.  But  has  met  with,  differences  in  cultural  conception  can   lead  to  certain  frictions.  Veiling  is  one  of  the  cultural  differences  that  found  a  lot  of  resistance.   But  as  pointed  out  by  the  political  debates,  extensively  discussed  in  the  media  it  is  a  sensitive   topic  with  many  different  views.     The  aim  of  this  thesis  is  to  define  the  multifaceted  structures  and  different  approaches  that  play   part  in  interpreting  contemporary  art  which  includes  a  Muslim  veil  in  its  different  forms,  from   only  a  headscarf  to  head  to  food  covering.  Art  is  characterizing  the  image  of  time  and  even  looks   ahead.    How  is  the  veil  presented  in  contemporary  art  and  in  what  sense  the  artist  reflect  on  the   ethical  dilemma  veiling  has  become?  Is  the  veil  used  as  signifier  in  contemporary  art?  And  if  so,   how  does  it  function  as  such?  How  does  the  degree  of  veiling  influence  our  way  of  viewing?  What   is  the  impact  if  a  thick  black  fabric  conceals  the  whole  body?    Does  it  make  a  difference  if  only   the  hair  is  covered  with  a  vividly  patterned  headscarf?       In  the  first  chapter  the  veil  in  art  is  placed  in  a  historical  context.  The  problems  considering   interpreting  the  complex  symbolism  of  the  veil  in  present-­‐day  are  also  discussed.    The  veil  has     4 The Veil as Signifier in Contemporary Art       become  a  symbol  with  a  strong  socio-­‐political  connotation.  What  is  it  that  makes  this  discourse   so  complex?  What  are  the  different  viewpoints  considering  veiling?       Over  the  last  years  a  few  art  projects  have  been  organized  with  the  veil  as  subject.  The  fixed   discourse  in  Western  countries  about  the  Islam  turn  out  to  be  an  inspiration  for  artists  and   curators.  The  different  perspectives  pointed  out  by  these  exhibitions  are  defined  in  the  second   chapter.  In  which  way  can  art  and  art  projects  contribute  to  the  discourse  of  the  veil?       In  the  next  chapters  the  work  of  four  different  artists  with  a  different  cultural  background,  and   therefore  different  histories  considering  the  veil,  is  discussed.    In  what  way  have  these  artists   used  the  veil  as  a  signifier?  These  case  studies  illustrate  the  versatility  of  the  veil  as  subject  and   the  different  approaches  in  different  societies.  Is  the  artist  expressing  his  vision  about   suppression,  exclusion,  power,  identity,  politics  or  religion  with  his  work  or  does  he  address  to  a   personal  issue?    Which  tools  do  the  artists  use  to  make  their  statement  clear?       In  the  art  practice  of  the  Iranian  artist  Shadi  Ghaderian  (Iran  1974),  gender  and  the  veiled   woman  are  returning  themes.  Iran,  the  country  where  Ghaderian  is  raised  and  still  works,  knows   changing  attitudes  to  veiling.  For  each  generation  veiling  has  a  different  meaning.  In  each  of  her   series  Ghaderian  points  out  a  different  aspect  of  veiling.    Naturally  the  topic  of  the  veil  has  to   deal  with  a  lot  of  prejudices.  How  do  artist  cope  with  this?  Can  they  invalidate  the  stereotype?       In  the  work  of  Zineb  Sedira  (Algeria,  1963)  the  veil  is  also  a  recurring  subject  matter,  but   Sedira’s  work  addresses  more  to  the  invisible,  mental  veil.    Sedira  was  brought  up  between   different  cultures,  Algeria  and  France,  she  is  very  aware  of  her  position  as  an  immigrant,  and  the   hanging  between  different  cultures.  The  difficulties  she  experienced  considering  communication   in  words  and  images  are  depicted  in  her  art.  Her  work  also  address  to  the  generation  gap   between  her  and  her  mother  and  her  own  daughter.       The  Dutch  photographer  Martine  Stig  (Netherlands,  1972)  explores  in  her  artistical  practice   mainly  stereotypes,  identity  and  the  function  of  photography.  For  the  series  Sisters,  she  pictured   totally  veiled  students,  in  the  way  we,  in  a  Western  sense,  are  used  to  record  portraits.  What  is   the  use  of  picturing  veiled  women  if  their  appearance,  their  identity,  is  hidden?  How  do  artists   deal  with  the  contrast  of  their  own  culture  and  the  “other”?    How  do  we  look  in  Netherlands  at   veiling?  Veils  and  ideas  about  veiling  are  specific  to  different  cultures  and  societies.         5 The Veil as Signifier in Contemporary Art       And  the  last  artist  that  is  discussed  is  the  fashion  designer  Hussein  Chalayan  (Turkey,  1970)  who   moves  with  his  conceptual  designs  between  art  and  fashion.  Chalayan  is  raised  in  Cyprus,  an   island  standing  at  the  crossroads  of  three  continents.  The  culture  of  Cyprus  is  divided  between   the  two  distinct  cultures  of  Greece  and  Turkey.  Each  community  maintains  its  own  culture.   Chalayan  tries  in  his  work  to  cross  the  cultural  borders.  Maybe  the  power  relation  between  the   West  and  the  East  is  best  illustrated  in  fashion;  here  the  differences  in  conceptions  in  values  are   materially  represented.  Does  the  Western  fashion  industry  influence  the  veiling  practice  of   Muslim  girls,  and  the  other  way  round:  does  the  veil  as  a  piece  of  garment  influences  the  fashion   industry?  And  can  it  thereby  contribute  to  an  acceptance  in  Western  society?     There  are  many  more  artists  that  have  taken  the  veil  as  subject  for  their  art.  The  artists   discussed  in  this  thesis  are  selected  for  their  difference  in  cultural  background,  to  illustrate  the   diversity  in  approach  considering  the  topic  of  the  veil.  I  am  aware  of  the  complexity  of  the   terminology;  which  countries  actually  belong  to  the  ‘Middle  East’,  what  can  be  considered  as   ‘Arabic’.  Can  we  define  ‘the  East’  and  ‘the  West’?  For  this  thesis  I  tried  to  choose  the  term  that   applies  best  in  the  context  it  is  used.  During  my  research  I  was  confronted  with  the  sensibilities   of  the  discussed  issues.  In  each  case  I  tried  to  stay  as  neutral  as  possible.       1.  Anita  Kunz,  Girls  Will  be  Girls,  2006.     6 The Veil as Signifier in Contemporary Art       The complexity of the veilʼs significance   For  centuries  the  veil  has  been  used  in  different  cultures  as  well  for  cultural,  ritual  or  religious   purpose.  In  the  Byzantium  veiling  was  among  many  a  privilege,  belonging  to  women  of  the   upper  classes  and  aspired  to  by  lower  class  women.1  Veiled  women  are  at  all  times  visualized  in   art.  Most  common,  and  probably  the  most  depicted  is  the  Holy  Virgin  Mary.    These  days  an  image   of  a  veiled  woman  almost  immediately  directs  to  the  veiled  Muslim  women.       The  veil  is  now,  from  a  Western  stereotypical  view,  primarily  associated  with  the  Islam,  gender   relations  and  women’s  rights.    The  mysterious,  sexy,  exotic,  oriental  veiled  harem  girls  as  we   know  from  the  popular  nineteenth  century  paintings  of  Ingres,  Delacroix  and  Gerome  are   replaced  by  women  totally  covered  in  thick  black  fabrics.  Nevertheless  the  fascination  for  the   Eastern  women  has  left  unchanged.    As  the  American,  Iraqi  art  historian  Nada  Shabou  outlines  in   her  article,  the  period  following  9/11  marks  a  turning  point  in  a  renewed  interest  in  all  things     ‘Middle  East’,  including  contemporary  art.2  The  festish  for  the  veil  always  have  been  an  absolute   binary  separating  ‘East’  and  ‘West’.    It  evoked,  fantasy,  exoticism  and  desire.  In  the  aftermath  of   9/11  this  shifted  from  a  gaze  of  desire  to  that  of  fear  only  solidified  the  binary.  The  veil  became  a   signifier  of  Muslim  ‘aggression’  against  the  West.3         The  Russian  art  collective  AES  art4  visualised  the  tension  between  East  and  West  in  their  art,   their  work  addresses  many  strategically  levels,  geographical,  economic,  cultural  and  political.     The  Witnesses  of  the  Future,  Islamic  Project  (1996)  was  an  installation  and  performance  in  which   AES  construct  a  vision  of  the  role  of  the  Islam  in  future;  they  made  a  visualization  of  the   neologism  “Islamophobia”  referring  to  the  exorbitant  and  irrational  fear  of  Islam  in  Western   society.    For  this  project  AES  was  inspired  by  Samuel  Huntington’s  popular  political  paradigm  of   the  mid  1990’s,  which  proposed  a  future  in  which  Islamic  and  Western  cultures  would  come   violently  into  collision.5    Huntington,  in  his  thesis  The  Clash  of  Civilizations,  argues  the   fundamental  source  of  conflict  would  be  cultural  one,  instead  of  primarily  ideological  or   economic.                                                                                                                     1  Kahf,  2008,  p  27   2  Shadou,  2009,  pp.  14-­‐15   3  Shadou,  2009,  p.  21   4  AES  art  group  was  established  in  1987  and  comprises  three  Russian  Jewish  artists:  Tatiana  Arzamasova   (born  1955),  Lev  Evzovich  (born  1958)  and  Evgeny  Svyatsky  (born  1957),  all  of  whom  live  and  work  in   Moscow.  Using  wit  and  satire,  AES's  digitally  manipulated  images  are  storyboards  reflecting  the  deep   rooted  insecurities  of  today's  postmodern,  postcolonial,  post  Cold  War  society.   5  www.aes-­‐group.org     7 The Veil as Signifier in Contemporary Art         AES  have  taken  monuments  from  Western  civilization  for  example  The  Big  Ben,  Centre  Pompidou   as  well  as  het  Groningermuseum  and  transformed  them  into  a  manipulated  image  taken  over  by   the  Islamic  world.6    They  were  promoting  a  set  of  fictitious  Grand  Tours,  which  would  set  out  in   the  year  2006  into  a  radically  changed  and  dystopic  landscape.    One  of  the  objects  they   ‘Islamized’  was  the  Statue  of  Liberty.  AES  covered  this  universal  symbol  of  freedom  and  liberty   with  a  Niqab  and  gave  her  a  Quran  in  her  hand  (figure  2).    In  the  aftermath  of  9/11  this  image  is   often  used  to  illustrate  the  feared  threat  of  the  Islam.         2.  AES  Art  Group,  Witnesses  of  the  future.  Islamic  Project,  1996.                                                                                                                             6  www.aes-­‐group.org     8 The Veil as Signifier in Contemporary Art       The  veil  is  likely  to  be  the  most  outwardly  visible  and  most  publicly  contested  sign  and  site  of   gendered  difference  in  Islamic  cultures  across  the  world.  And  therefore  it  has  become  the   subject  of  an  over-­‐mediated  intense  legal  and  political  debate.  This  has  leaded  to  the  fact  the  veil,   in  Muslim  sense,  in  this  era,  especially  post  9-­‐11,  in  its  many  forms  for  instance  the  headscarf,   hijab,  burqa  or  niqab  7,  has  become  a  very  strong  symbol.    The  veil  has  now  received,  next  to  the   religious,  an  indissoluble  political  and  social  connotation.  The  continuous  and  discontinuous   histories  and  geographies  of  the  veil  are  complex,  and  are  subject  of  much  debate  across  a  range   of  different  sites  and  from  different  perspectives.    Distinctions  can  be  made  between  intimacy   and  publicity,  between  concealing  and  showing,  between  hiding  and  seeing,  as  well  as  society’s   acceptance  and  non-­‐acceptance.  As  argued  by  Jennifer  Heath  in  the  introduction  to  The  Veil,  an   anthology  in  which  women  writers  from  different  cultures  discuss  the  veil  in  the  broadest  sense:   “Today,  veiling  has  become  globally  polarizing,  a  locus  for  the  struggle  between  Islam  and  the   West  and  between  contemporary  and  traditional  interpretations  of  Islam.”8    The  veiling   discourse  is  a  discussion  that  derives  from  the  broader  debate  on  multiculturalism.  At  the   beginning  the  veil  is  a  piece  of  garment  but  it  is  embedded  in  a  social  and  political  framework   and  the  discussion  about  being  allowed  to  wear  or  -­‐  not  to  wear  -­‐  a  veil,  has  become  a  complex   ethical  dilemma.         In  several  Western  countries,  most  particular  France  but  also  in  the  Netherlands,  there  are   headscarf  controversies  going  on,  in  which  opponents  try  to  disallow  the  wearing  of  face   covering  garments  for  women  in  public  spaces.  These  “headscarf  debates”  are  controversial  and   create  a  lot  of  opposing  reactions  and  pull  the  West  and  East  further  apart.    Opponents  see  the   veil  as  a  threat  for  the  human  rights.  Another  often  heard  argument  is  that  women  who  are   veiled  are  believed  to  slow  down  the  integration.  And  in  our  fear  for  terrorism  the  argument  of   safety  comes  up,  we  must  be  able  to  see  what  women  are  hiding  underneath  their  clothes.     The  Islam  sumptuary  laws,  based  upon  teachings  found  in  the  Qur’an  and  Hadiths9,  tell  how  men   and  women  are  required  to  be  dressed.  Women  are  required  to  wear  a  modest  outfit;  they  have   to  cover  their  bodies  to  protect  themselves  for  the  male  gaze.  But  that  what  is  qualified  as                                                                                                                   7  Headscarf  (or  Hijab  or  Hidjab):    is  only  for  covering  the  hair  and  part  of  the  face.  Hidjab  in  Arabic  also   refers  to  modesty,  privacy  and  morality.  Nikab  (or  Nikaab,  niqab  or  Niquaab)  is  an  Arabic  term  for  the  veil   that  covers  the  whole  face  except  for  the  eyes.  Traditionally  worn  only  by  orthodox  Islamic  women.     Chador:  Is  a  Persian  garment  covers  the  whole  body,  except  from  the  face  to  hide  feminine  forms.     Burka  (or  Burqa):  Covers  the  whole  body,  also  the  eyes  are  hidden  behind  a  net  of  grill.  Under  the  regime   of  the  Taliban  women  in  Afghanistan  were  required  to  wear  a  Burqa.   8  Heath,  2008,  p.  1   9  Hadiths:  narrations  concerning  the  words  and  deeds  of  the  Islamic  prophet  Muhammad.  Hadith  are   regarded  by  traditional  Islamic  schools  of  jurisprudence  as  important  tools  for  understanding  the  Qur’an   and  in  matter  for  jurisprudence.       9 The Veil as Signifier in Contemporary Art       ‘modest’,  and  therewith  the  levelling  of  veiling  varies  in  different  Muslim  societies;  each  country   has  its  own  native  tradition.  Each  Muslim  state  is  culturally,  politically  economically  and  socially   different.  Also  because  of  migration  these  differences  become  visible.    Women  who  even  wear  a   headscarf,  hijab,  in  a  ‘Western’  society  can  be  confronted  with  a  lot  of  prejudices  like:  she  is  truly   dedicated  to  her  religion,  she  is  very  conservative,  is  suppressed  by  the  males  of  her  family,  she   has  had  no  education  and  is  ignorant.         Pamela  K.  Taylor,  who  calls  herself  a  modern  Muslim  and  is  co-­‐founder  of  Muslims  for   Progressive  Values,  writes  in  a  personal  essay,  she  wears  a  hijab  as  a  clear  statement,  she  did  not   want  to  be  judged  by  her  body,  her  beauty  or  the  lack  thereof,  but  as  an  individual,  for  her   personality,  her  character,  and  her  accomplishments.  For  her  veiling  was  also  a  rejection  of  the   objectification  of  women.10  She  quickly  found  out  that  this  was  paradoxical  and  that  she   swapped  from  the  one  objectification  in  to  the  other.         From  a  Western  view  we  sometimes  look  at  veiled  women  with  a  compassion  or  condescending   sympathy.  You  could  say  veiled  women  are  victimized.  But  for  many  women,  not  living  in  a   regime  where  veiling  is  required,  veiling  can  be  a  well-­‐considered  choice  of  their  own.  Every   woman  has  her  own  reason  to  be  veiled.  Considering  the  subject  of  the  veil,  personal  stories  are   significant  in  understanding  and  to  broaden  up  the  debate.  The  experiences  of  the  veiled  women   are  more  important  than  the  interpretations  of  academics  and  politicians.       Rita  Stephan  has  grown  up  in  Syria  as  a  conservative  Christian,  moved  on  the  age  of  sixteen  to   the  United  States  and  is  now  as  academic  researcher  promoting  multicultural  understanding.  In   her  text  Virtue  and  Sin  she  explains  her  situation  as  an  unveiled  woman  living  in  a  veiled  society.   Stephan  gives  four  different  perceptions  of  how  the  veiling  of  women  symbolizes  conservatism   and  social  control  among  Muslims.  Some  Muslims  consider  all  women’s  private  references  to   shame,  weakness,  and  immaturity  and  therefore  they  have  to  cover  themselves.  Others  consider   women  equal  to  men  in  rights  and  responsibilities;  veiling  for  them  is  just  an  act  of  modesty.  A   third  group  argues  that  veiling  is  not  an  indicator  of  oppression  but  a  preventive  and  protective   measure  for  social  control.  The  veil  prevents  men  from  looking  at  women  to  desire  them;   therefore  it  protects  their  souls  from  falling  into  sin  and  prevents  social  problems.    A  fourth   group  claims  that  conservative  attitudes,  including  veiling,  were  reactions  to  imperialism  and   colonialism.  Western  cultures  swept  away  many  aspects  of  Middle  Eastern  and  Muslim   traditions.  They  felt  the  need  to  maintain  their  girls’  honour  as  an  authentic  and  pure  cultural                                                                                                                   10  Taylor,  2003,  pp.  120-­‐122     10

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In the Byzantium veiling was among many a privilege, belonging to women of .. Kourush Adim, AES art group, Jananne Al-‐Ani, Ghada Amer, Farah.
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