The vegetable butcher : how to select, prep, slice, dice, and masterfully cook vegetables from artichokes to zucchini

703 Pages·2016·22.58 MB·English

by  Mangini

The
VEGETABLE BUTCHER
How to SELECT, PREP, SLICE,
DICE, and MASTERFULLY COOK
VEGETABLES from ARTICHOKES
to ZUCCHINI
CARA MANGINI
WORKMAN PUBLISHING
NEW YORK
vegetable butcher (n) \'vej-tә-bәl
\'bů-chәr\:
1. a trusted professional who breaks
down vegetables with knife
lessons, insider tips, and
approachable preparations.
2. this book; a resource full of
produce-inspired recipes that
deliver over-the-top flavor without
sacrifice (or apology).
For my family
WITH INFINITE LOVE AND GRATITUDE
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
I
worked on this cookbook in my mind and in practice for about 10 years
before it actually took shape. I experienced immeasurable serendipity on
my path to making this dream a reality, and had many very special
people in my life who encouraged me along the way. I offer them the
deepest kind of thank-you—tied up in endless gratitude and appreciation.
Thank you . . .
Peter Greenberg, for teaching me to say yes to everything and
encouraging me to keep taking steps forward until a path became
obvious. Sara Moulton, for being an inspiration and for making it clear
that there are no shortcuts to success, that you must work hard to get
anywhere, and that I should go to culinary school. Paule Caillat, for being
an extraordinary teacher, for contributing to this cookbook, and for
leading me to Dorie Greenspan and a table of talented women at The
Culinary Loft who, along with you, confirmed my decision to join the
professional culinary world. Kathy Lewis Perialis, for showing me what it
means to be a leader and for supporting me as I took a terrifying leap out
of the corporate world. I owe you so much.
Sarah Currid and my dear New York girls, for your encouragement
and friendship, which gave me the strength to follow a new path. Ryan
O’Keefe Testa and Dana Sexton Vivier, for the many pep talks and
culinary adventures—from small Paris apartments to peach farms in
culinary adventures—from small Paris apartments to peach farms in
Spain—that helped lead me to my center.
Chef Stephen Barber, for giving me a chance and an opportunity that
confirmed my professional purpose and for allowing me to experience
and know what an authentic commitment to local food means. Antonia
Allegra, for sage advice and giving me a space to write and imagine what
this book would be. Jim White, for your mentorship, friendship, and can-
do spirit that makes me want to (and believe that I can) achieve
everything. Dave and Nancy Yewell, for housing me, for trusting me, for
sharing recipes and food stories, for listening and encouraging, for all the
recipe testing, for introducing me to many people that have influenced my
journey, and for being extraordinary, loving friends.
Leah Wolf, for your immense help with research. Lisa Radigan,
Elizabeth Anderson, and Sharon Halkovics, for testing recipes and
making them better. Gina Manion, for supporting me in everything and
offering up your very professional recipe-testing skills. Emily Mangini, for
helping me imagine and test many of the desserts in this book. Your
many talents and constant willingness to help blow me away. To my
Columbus friends and the Bauer family, for welcoming me, supporting me
and Little Eater, and for your involvement in and excitement for this book.
Stacey Glick, for believing in me and this book idea from the start, for
advising me to keep working hard, and for finding the most perfect editor
and partner to bring this book to life. Kylie Foxx McDonald, that perfect
editor and partner, for your undeniable standard of excellence, attention
to detail, and commitment to making this book the absolute best it can
be. I am forever grateful for this opportunity, for getting to work with you,
and for your trust in me and this project.
Anne Kerman, for working tirelessly to assemble an all-star team to
bring this book to life in pictures. The Chef’s Garden and Melissa’s
Produce, for providing gorgeous vegetables for our shoot. Matthew
Benson, for your love and passion for vegetables, and Nora Singley and
Benson, for your love and passion for vegetables, and Nora Singley and
Sara Abalan, for your spirit and talent—together you made everything
beautiful. Rachel Joy Baransi, for your stunning cover shot. Becky
Terhune, for bringing it all together.
To everyone at Workman Publishing who has supported me and this
cookbook and continues to do so—especially Suzie Bolotin, Rebecca
Carlisle, Moira Kerrigan, Beth Levy, Selina Meere, Rachael Mt. Pleasant,
Barbara Peragine, Jessica Wiener, and Doug Wolff. I am grateful for this
true collaboration and propelled by your energy and enthusiasm for this
project.
The entire Little Eater team, for your dedication and hard work that
allows our company to grow and prosper while giving me the opportunity
to plan the future of our company and spread the word about this book.
Ethan Fink, for stepping up and helping run Little Eater in its beginning
days, and every day, so that this project could happen. You were an
invaluable part of this, and a source of organization, ideas, and
consistency that I am so lucky to rely on. Janelle Kilbane, for your
partnership, leadership, creative energy, and commitment to this
cookbook and our mission from the very beginning. Without you, I could
not have completed this project nor could our company have survived my
time away from it. You helped shape these pages through hours and
hours of recipe-testing, your always-right culinary instincts, your focus,
and simply for being there. There are not enough words to describe the
magnitude of my appreciation for you.
Mom and Beth, for being with me every step of the way during this
project and always. Your work, insight, and brilliance are a part of this.
Dad and Nick, for being my listeners and advice-givers. Nana, for being
an inspiration and a master in the kitchen who has taught me everything.
To each of you and the rest of my big, wonderful family, thank you for
being an unparalleled force of love and support in my life. The magic that
happens around a table with you has inspired this work and everything
happens around a table with you has inspired this work and everything
that I do.
Tom, my incredible, selfless, hardworking husband: You have
sacrificed so much over the years in supporting me, this book, and my
business. I am thankful for every dish you washed, for every late-night
run to the grocery store, for every delivery you made for Little Eater, and
for every social event you went to and Saturday you spent without me. I
am forever and ever grateful for you. Thank you for believing in me and
all the crazy dreams I described to you when we first met. I couldn’t do
any of it without your unwavering strength and cheerleading. I am
bursting with joy and excitement for our next adventure.
CONTENTS
A Note from Your Vegetable Butcher
Butchery Basics
Selection. Storage. Washing. • Cutting Boards • Equipment. Tools. • Basic Cuts
A Visual Guide to Basic Cuts
Pantry Support
The Vegetables
Artichokes
Arugula and Mizuna
Asparagus
Avocados
Beets
Bok Choy
Broccoli and Broccolini
Broccoli Rabe
Brussels Sprouts
Cabbage
Cardoons
Carrots
Cauliflower and Romanesco
Celery
Celery Root
Chicories and Endives
Collard (Kale, Mustard Greens, Swiss Chard)
Corn
Crosnes
Cucumbers
Eggplant
Fava and Cranberry Beans
Fennel
Fiddlehead Ferns
Garlic
Ginger
Green Beans
Herbs (Basil, Chervil, Chives, Cilantro, Dill, Marjoram, Mint, Oregano, Parsley,
Rosemary, Sage, Tarragon, Thyme)
Jicama
Kohlrabi
Leeks
Lettuce
Mushrooms
Nettles
Okra
Onions
Parsnips
Peas and Edible-Pod Peas
Peppers
Potatoes
Radishes
Rhubarb
Rutabaga
Salsify and Scorzonera
Spinach
Sunchokes
Sweet Potatoes
Tomatillos
Tomatoes
Turnips
Wild Greens (Amaranth, Dandelion, Lamb’s-Quarters, Orach, Purslane, Sorrel,
Watercress)
Winter Squash
Zucchini and Summer Squash
Conversion Tables
Recipes by Season
About the Author