V a n d e r n h n o A o f T h e S P I C E N e c k l a c e G M N Y K I A O D O VE C NTURES IN CARI B B E A N EATING, AND ISLA N D L I F E houghton mifflin harcourt • Boston • New York 2010 The Spice Necklace First U.S. edition Copyright © 2009Ann Vanderhoof all rights reserved For information about permission to reproduce selections from this book, write to Permissions, Houghton Mifflin Harcou rt Publishing Company, 215Park Avenue South, New York, New York 10003. www.hmhbooks.com First published in Canada by Doubleday, 2009 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Vanderhoof, Ann, date. The spice necklace / Ann Vanderhoof. p. cm. isbn 978-0-618-68537-0 1. Cookery (Spices) 2. Cookery, Caribbean. I. Title. tx819.a1v28 2010 641.3'383—dc22 2010007136 Designed by CS Richardson Printed in the United States of America doc 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 For Rita, who taught me the pleasure of cooking, and Harold, who taught me the pleasure of eating And for Steve, a second helping . . . contents . . . Preface The Spell of the Spice Necklace 1 1 The Nutmeg Gatherers Grenada 8 2 Self-Spicing Goats The Dominican Republic 23 3 The Egg Ladies The Dominican Republic & Haiti 52 4 The 151-Proof Spice St. Martin & Saba 76 5 Bay in the Mountains, Crabs in the Pot Dominica & St. Kitts 95 6 The Food Critics Visit the Easy-Bake Boat Grenada 120 7 Rolling Rice and Drinking Jack Iron Rum Carriacou & Petite Martinique 149 8 Curry Tabanca Trinidad 179 9 Feelin’ Hot, Hot, Hot Trinidad 207 10 Cramming for a Chocolate-Tasting Test Trinidad, Tobago & Grenada 236 11 Snow on the Mountains, Christmas on the Way Grenada, Trinidad, Carriacou & The Grenadines 264 12 All Ah We Is One Trinidad 291 13 In Search of Passion Grenada & St. Lucia 320 14 Barks That Bite St. Lucia & Trinidad 341 15 Dog Sauce and Rhum St. Martin, Martinique & Marie-Galante 362 16 The Torments of Love Guadeloupe & The Islands of the Saints 382 17 Lunch with Moses Grenada & Dominica 407 18 Back to the Isle of Spice Grenada 431 Afterword 453 Acknowledgments 457
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