The Sotheby S Wine Encyclopedia Tom Stevenson Dk 2005 Uk 4th Ed

664 Pages·2008·59.79 MB·english

by  Unknown

THE
SOTHEBY’S
WINE
ENCYCLOPEDIA
TOM STEVENSON
CONTENTS
LONDON, NEW YORK, MELBOURNE,
MUNICH, DELHI
Fourth edition(2005)
Introduction 7–47
DORLING KINDERSLEY
ARTEDITORSue Metcalfe-Megginson EDITORSJoanna Benwell, Bill Evans,
Introduction 7
MANAGINGARTEDITORMarianne Markham Claire Nottage, Gary Werner
Using this book 8
DTPDESIGNERLouise Waller MANAGINGEDITORDeirdre Headon
MAPSEncompass Graphics,Paul DIGITALCONTENTMANAGERNina Blackett The Taste of Wine 10
Eames, David Roberts AMERICANIZATIONMargaret Parrish How to Assess a Wine 12
PRODUCTIONCONTROLLERKevin Ward INDEXERJohn Noble Terroir 14
Guide to Vineyard Soils 17
Produced for Dorling Kindersley by
Viticulture 19
COOLING BROWN LTD.
Annual Life cycle of the Vine 23
CREATIVEDIRECTORArthur Brown SENIOREDITORFiona Wild Vinification 25
DESIGNPeter Cooling, Elaine Hewson, COPYEDITORAlyson Lacewing The Choice of Oak 32
Tish Jones, Elly King
Grape Varieties 35
Glossary of Grape Varieties 36
Penguin Group (USA) Inc.,
375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014, USA Grape Variety Synonyms 43
Penguin Group (Canada), Storing Wine 46
10 Alcorn Avenue, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M4V 3B2
(a division of Pearson Penguin Canada Inc.) Serving Wine 47
Penguin Books Ltd., 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, England
Penguin Ireland, 25 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2, Ireland
The WINESof
(a division of Penguin Books Ltd.)
the world 48–51
Penguin Group (Australia), 250 Camberwell Road, Camberwell,
Victoria 3124, Australia (a division of Pearson Australia Group Pty Ltd.)
A World of Wine 50
Penguin Books India Pvt Ltd., 11 Community Centre,
Panchsheel Park, New Delhi - 110 017, India
Penguin Group (NZ), Cnr Airborne and Rosedale Roads, Albany,
Auckland, New Zealand (a division of Pearson New Zealand Ltd) The WINESof
FRANCE 52–259
Penguin Books (South Africa) (Pty) Ltd., 24 Sturdee Avenue,
Rosebank, Johannesburg 2196, South Africa
France Introduction 54
Fourth edition published 2005
Bordeaux 62
by Dorling Kindersley Limited,
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL The Médoc 70
First published in 1988 as Sotheby’s World Wine Encyclopedia St.-Estèphe 81
Published in 1997 as The New Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopedia
Pauillac 84
St.-Julien 89
6 8 10 9 7 5
Margaux 92
Copyright © 1988, 1991, 1997, 2001, 2005 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
Graves, Cérons,
Text copyright © 1988, 1991, 1997, 2001, 2005 Tom Stevenson
Sauternes, and Barsac 97
All rights reserved. No part of this publication
may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in
any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or
otherwise, without the prior written permission of the copyright owner.
A CIP catalog record of this book is available from the British Library
ISBN: 0-7566-1324-8
Color reproduction by Colorscan, Singapore
Printed and bound by SMP Leefung, Hong Kong
See our complete catalog at Château Gruaud-Larose, St-Julien, France
www.dk.com
The WINESof
ITALY 260–299
Italy Introduction 262
Northwestern Italy 266
Northeastern Italy 275
West-Central Italy 282
East-Central Italy 289
Southern Italy and
the Islands 292
The WINESof
SPAIN 300–325
Spain Introduction 302
Rioja and Navarra 312
Penedés: Cava Country 318
Sherry Country 321
Conca d’Oro estate, Vulture, Basilicata, Italy
The WINESof
The Libournais and Fronsadais 108 PORTUGAL 326–341
St.-Émilion 111
Pomerol 120
Portugal Introduction 328
The Fronsadais and
Port: The Douro Valley 334
St.-Émilion and Pomerol satellites 124
Bourg and Blaye 126 Madeira 340
Entre-Deux-Mers 130
Burgundy 135
The WINESof
The Chablis District 140 GERMANY, AUSTRIA, AND
Côte de Nuits and SWITZERLAND 342–395
Hautes-Côtes de Nuits 145
Côte de Beaune and Germany Introduction 344
Hautes-Côtes de Beaune 151
The Ahr 354
The Côte Chalonnaise 159
The Mittelrhein 356
The Mâconnais 161
Mosel 358
The Beaujolais 165
The Nahe 362
Champagne 169
The Rheingau 364
Alsace 184 Rheinhessen 368
The Loire Valley 196 The Pfalz 371
The Hessische-Bergstrasse 374
Pays Nantais 200
Franken 376
Anjou-Saumur 202
Touraine 207
Central Vineyards 211
The Rhône Valley 213
The Northern Rhône 215
The Southern Rhône 218
The Jura and Savoie 224
Southwestern France 228
Languedoc-Roussillon 235
Provence and Corsica 243
Vins de Pays 248
Rieschen Vineyard, Meersburg, Germany
Württemberg 379
Baden 381
Saale-Unstrut and Sachsen 385
Austria 387
Switzerland 392
The WINESof
NorthWestern
Europe 396–409
The British Isles 398
Luxembourg 404
Other Winemaking Countries of
Northwestern Europe 409
The WINESof
Southeastern
Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, Chile
Europe 410–429
California 469
Bulgaria 412 Mendocino County 479
Hungary 415 Sonoma County 481
Napa County 487
Romania 420
The Central Coast (North) 495
Slovakia and the Czech Republic 423 The Central Coast (South) 498
The Western Balkans 426 The Central Valley 502
Other Appellations of California 504
The Black and Caspian Seas 428
The Pacific Northwest 507
The Atlantic Northeast 517
The WINESof Other Winemaking Areas of the United States 527
the eastern
Canada 532
Mediterranean 430–439
Mexico 538
South America Introduction 540
Greece 432
Chile and Argentina 543
The Levant 437
The WINESof
The WINESof AUSTRALIA,
THE AFRICAS 440–459
NEW ZEALAND
South Africa 442
& ASIA 550–618
North Africa 456
Other Winemaking Countries of Africa 458 Australia Introduction 552
New South Wales 560
Victoria and Tasmania 567
The WINESof
THE AMERICAs 460–549 South Australia 578
Western Australia 589
North America Introduction 462 Queensland and Northern Territory 595
New Zealand 598
Asia 616
Wine and Food 619
Taste Chart 623
Guide to Good Vintages 626
Troubleshooter’s Guide 628
Glossary 629
Index 641
Spring mustard flowers and vines, Napa Valley, California
Acknowledgments 664
INTRODUCTION 7
GOOD NEWS AND BAD NEWS
THE GOOD NEWS IS THE NUMBER OF
top-performing wine producers throughout the
world, which has swollen out of all proportion
when compared with earlier editions of this
encyclopedia. Despite deleting hundreds of
previously recommended producers, there are
now in excess of 6,000 wineries recommended
over the following pages. I have never upgraded
the star ratings of so many producers in any
revision than I have for the California chapter
in this edition. And, proportionately, the number
of increased ratings for wineries in Australia and, my self-
confessed favorite, New Zealand, was not far behind.
The bad news is the low number of top-performing organic
wine producers. To be frank, I had no idea just how bad the
situation was when I first decided to use O and B symbols to
identify recommended organic and biodynamic wine producers,
but the relative rarity of these symbols throughout the book
rang alarm bells. It is one thing if someone gifted like Olivier
Humbrecht of Domaine Zind-Humbrecht in Alsace or Lalou Bize-
Leroy of Domaine Leroy in Burgundy go organic or biodynamic.
When great winemakers with exceptional terroirs “go green” they
produce great organic or biodynamic wines. However, it is quite
another matter when others less passionate about the quality of
wine are organic. While they may well have a true passion for
the environment, the majority of the world’s organic producers
clearly have no idea how to make a superior quality wine.
And considering that many of them have been churning out
their green gunge for years, they obviously could not care less.
Just as worrying are the organizations that certify organic and
biodynamic production, because it seems as if they could
not care less either. It is not good enough to
certify the method of production alone.
They should acknowledge the importance of
quality by introducing some sort of superior
award on the label. Either that or the likes
of Humbrecht and Bize-Leroy should set up
international schools of organic and biodynamic
excellence. Both ideas would be nice.
September 2005
8 INTRODUCTION
USING THIS BOOK
Each chapter of the Encyclopedia is arranged on a country-by- Where appropriate—in Bordeaux, for example—a listing of generic
country basis, within which each wine region is dealt with; appellations provides an overview before the author deals with the
any districts within regions are examined, as are any smaller more specific appellations. Various levels of information may be
winemaking areas in each district. Within each chapter, there are included in the Taste Guides, depending on the importance of a
two basic types of page: general introductory text and taste guides. wine and/or its producer. Look for red, white, rosé, and sparkling
Introductory text has three regular features, “Label Language,” tasting notes, with symbols denoting other information as detailed
“Recent Vintages,” and “Factors Affecting Taste and Quality,” below right. When consulting the encylopedia for a comment on a
which may be given at either the national or regional level (see particular wine, look up the wine producer in the index. If you find
below). Taste guides are variously entitled: “The Appellations that the producer is not listed, then look up the wine’s appellation
of...”; “The Wine Styles of...”; and “The Wine Producers of....” or style (by country or region).
COUNTRY AND REGION INTRODUCTION PAGES
TheWINES of
FRANCE
CHAPTER INTRODUCTION
Full-spread chapter openers give
FRENCHWINESAREREGARDEDASTHEBEST
eivne nth seh waroerdld b, ya nFdra an cteh’rse afide rocef stth Nise bwe-lWieof rilsd readers a brief introduction to
competitors. Although the winemakers of
Australia and California, for instance, no longer the region in question and a
try to copy famous French wine styles, they
Frsetinllc hco wnsinidee rr etghieomns baerne cah mfoarrtuksn.a Tteh ea cgcrideaetn t taste of what is to come.
of geography, climate, and terroir. No other
winemaking country in the world has such a
wide range of cool climates; this factor has
enabled France to produce the entire spectrum
of classic wine styles – from the crisp sparkling
wines of Champagne through the smooth
reds of Burgundy to the rich sweet wines of
Sauternes. Over many centuries of trial and
error, the French have discovered that specific
grapes are suited to certain soils and, through
this, distinctive regional wine styles have
evolved, so that every wine drinker knows
what to expect from a bottle of Bordeaux,
Burgundy, Champagne, or Rhône. This has
been the key to success for French wines.
54 FRANCE FRANCE 55
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62 FRANCE BORDEAUX 63
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USING THIS BOOK 9
DISTRICTS AND TASTE GUIDES
WINE DISTRICTS 70 FRANCE BORDEAUX - THE MÉDOC 71 DISTRICT MAP
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STAR RSAYTMINBOGL SSYSTEM
The Factors Affecting Taste and Quality boxes appear on the
introductory pages of countries, regions, or districts. The taste guides
(Appellations, Producers, and Wine Styles) follow these introductions.
STAR RATING SYSTEM
factors affecting taste guide symbols
taste and quality Stars are given for a producer’s general quality and do not necessarily
kWhen to drink for optimum
apply to each wine produced. When a producer has neither stars nor
HLOCATION enjoyment. This is usually given as
a range (such as 3–7 years) from the a cross, this indicates an acceptable but not outstanding standard.
date of the vintage. “Upon purchase”
Fclimate is for wines that should be both Half-stars indicate intermediate ratings Y Aproducer of organic wines.
bought and drunk while young. c Wines that excel within their Z A producer of biodynamic wines.
EASPECT “Upon opening” is for fortified wines class or style. v Wines of exceptional value for
that can keep for many years but, cc Very exceptional wines. money, whether they are
DSOIL contrary to popular belief, do not The local equivalent of a inexpensive or not.
keep well once opened. Bordeaux super-second. See
? Wines that are inconsistent, or
gGrape varieties used. Glossary, p.638.
too rustic, or judgment has
JVITICULTURE AND I The very best wines in the cccThe best wines that money can been reserved for a stated reason.
VINIFICATION
author’s experience. buy, without any allowances x Underperformers for their
GGRAPE VARIETIES tRecommended producers, made for limitations of local category or style.
vineyards, and wines. style and quality.
10 INTRODUCTION
THE TASTE OF WINE
The difference between tasting and drinking is The color of wine
similar to test-driving a car you may buy and the Natural light is best for observing a wine’s color, the first clue to
its identity once its condition has been assessed. Look at the
relish of driving it afterward. One is a matter of
wine against a white background, holding the glass at the bottom
concentration, as you seek out merits and faults, of the stem and tilting it away from you slightly. Red wines vary
in color from clairet, which is almost rosé, to tones so dark
while the other is a more relaxed and enjoyable
and opaque that they seem black. White wines range from a
experience. Almost anyone can learn to taste wine. colorless water-white to deep gold, although the majority are
a light straw-yellow color. For some reason, there are very
WHEN TASTING A WINEit is important to eliminate all distractions, few rosé wines that are truly pink in color, the tonal range
especially comments made by others; it is all too easy to be extending from blue-pink, through purple-pink, to orange-pink.
swayed. The wine should be tasted and an opinion registered Disregard any impression about a wine’s color under artificial
before any ensuing discussions. Even at professionally led lighting because it will never be true—fluorescent light, for
tastings, the expert’s job is not to dictate but to educate, to example, makes a red wine appear brown.
“lead from behind,” putting into perspective other people’s
natural responses to smells or tastes through clear and concise Factors affecting color
explanation. The three “basics” of wine-tasting are sight, smell, The color and tonal variation of any wine, whether red, white, or
and taste, known as “eye,” “nose,” and “palate.” rosé, is determined by the grape variety. It is also influenced by
the ripeness of the actual grapes, the area of production, the
THE SIGHT, OR “EYE,” OF A WINE method of vinification, and the age of the wine. Dry, light-bodied
The first step is to assess the wine’s limpidity, which should be wines from cooler climates are the lightest in color, while fuller-
perfectly clear. Many wines throw a deposit, but this is harmless bodied or sweeter-styled wines from hotter regions are the
if it settles to yield a bright and clear wine. If it is cloudy or hazy, deepest. Youthful red wines usually have a purple tone, whereas
the wine should be discarded. Tiny bubbles that appear on the young white wines may hint of green, particularly if they are from
bowl or cling persistently to the edge of the glass are perfectly a cooler climate. The aging process involves a slow oxidation that
acceptable in a few wines, such as Muscadet sur lie and Vinho has a browning effect similar to the discoloration of a peeled
Verde, but probably indicate a flaw in most other still wines, apple that has been exposed to the air.
particularly if red and from classic Old World regions.
The next step is to swirl the wine gently around the glass. THE SMELL, OR “NOSE,” OF A WINE
So-called “legs” or “tears,” thin sinewy threads of wine that run Whenever an experienced taster claims to be able to recognize
down the side of the glass, may appear. Contrary to popular in excess of 1,000 different smells, many wine lovers give up
belief, they are not indicative of high glycerol content, but are all hope of acquiring even the most basic tasting skills. Yet they
simply the effect of alcohol on wine’s viscosity, or the way the should not be discouraged. Almost everybody can detect and
wine flows. The greater the alcohol content, the less free-flowing, distinguish over 1,000 different smells, the majority of which are
or more viscous, the wine actually becomes. ordinary, everyday odors. Ask anyone to write down all the
VISUAL EXAMINATION NOSING A WINE
Unless it has an extreme color or hue, the appearance of a wine is the least As we smell most flavors, rather than taste them, a good sniff tells us a lot about
interesting aspect of a tasting note for most readers, which is why most authors a wine. But refrain from continuously sniffing, as this will dull your sense of
use color descriptions sparingly. The eye is, however, one of the most important smell. Take one good sniff, then pause for thought. Do not rush on to tasting the
sensory organs for professional tasters, since even the most subtle shade or wine. Remember that no smells are specific to wine—they can all be compared
nuance can provide numerous clues to the wine’s identity. to something familiar, but you need time to work out what they are.