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The Silk Industries of Medieval Paris: Artisanal Migration, Technological Innovation, and Gendered Experience PDF

365 Pages·2016·4.17 MB·English
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The Silk Industries of Medieval Paris THE MIDDLE AGES SERIES RuthMazoKarras,SeriesEditor EdwardPeters,FoundingEditor The Silk Industries of Medieval Paris Artisanal Migration, Technological Innovation, and Gendered Experience Sharon Farmer university of pennsylvania press philadelphia Copyright(cid:2)2017UniversityofPennsylvaniaPress Allrightsreserved.Exceptforbriefquotationsusedforpurposes ofrevieworscholarlycitation,noneofthisbookmaybereproducedin anyformbyanymeanswithoutwrittenpermissionfromthepublisher. Publishedby UniversityofPennsylvaniaPress Philadelphia,Pennsylvania19104-4112 www.upenn.edu/pennpress PrintedintheUnitedStatesofAmericaonacid-freepaper 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 ACataloging-in-Publicationrecordisavailablefromthe LibraryofCongress isbn978-0-8122-4848-7 Contents ANoteonNomenclatureandMoney vii ListofAbbreviations ix Introduction 1 Chapter1.Paris,CityofImmigrants 11 Chapter2.FromPersianCocoontoSoiedeParis:TradeNetworks andSilkTechniques 38 Chapter3.ImmigrantMercersandSilkWorkers 74 Chapter4.Gender,Work,andtheParisianSilkIndustry 106 Chapter5.Jews,ForeignLombards,andParisianSilkWomen 137 Conclusion 165 Appendix1.MediterraneanImmigrantsPayingTaxes as“BourgeoisofParis”orIncludedonParisianGuildLists 173 Appendix2.MercersintheParisianTaxAssessments, ArrangedbyNeighborhood 200 Appendix3.SilkWeaversintheParisianTaxAssessments 241 vi Contents Appendix4.SilkThrowstersintheParisianTaxAssessments 256 Appendix5.Ouvriers/Ouvri`eresdeSoieintheParisianTaxAssessments 266 Notes 281 Bibliography 327 Index 347 Acknowledgments 353 A Note on Nomenclature and Money Itisalwaysdifficult,inaprojectsuchasthis,tocomeupwithasinglesetof rulesfornomenclature.Fornamesofeliteswhohavebeendiscussedinmod- ern scholarship, I have chosen what I perceive to be the most common English usage: King Philip the Fair, King John II of France. In some cases, asfarasIcantell,themostcommonlyusedformofthegivenname,evenin English-language scholarship, is the modern French form, thus: Queen JeanneofNavarre;Jean,thesonofKingLouisIX. Fornamesofindividualswhohavenotbeendiscussedinmodernhistori- calliterature,Ihaveattempted,instead,tostayclosetotheformofthename (or, at least, to one of the forms of the name) that one encounters in the sources. This is true as well for street names. In some cases, however, when theorthographyisbothslipperyandveryclosetothemodernversion,Ihave simplyoptedforthemodernspelling. Money in Paris was calculated in both livres tournois and livres parisis: livresparisisequaled5livrestournois.Inbothsystems,1livreequaled20sous or 240deniers. The Frenchfranc wasfirst coined in1360; it wasthe equiva- lentof1livretournois. This page intentionally left blank Abbreviations ADS Chambe´ry,Archivesde´partementaledeSavoie AN Paris,ArchivesNationalesdeFrance PdCA Arras,ArchivesduPas-de-Calais,CentreMahautd’Artois,Se´rieA

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For more than one hundred years, from the last decade of the thirteenth century to the late fourteenth, Paris was the only western European town north of the Mediterranean basin to produce luxury silk cloth. What was the nature of the Parisian silk industry? How did it get there? And what do the ans
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