The Science of Thai Cuisine Lists of the most popular or delicious dishes in the world always include Thai food. Sriracha sauce has gone from a dipping sauce made in a small town in Thailand to become a recognizable flavor in cuisine worldwide. With a reputa- tion of being hot and spicy, it is not uncommon to see those who try Thai food for the first time shedding tears and sporting a red nose. Yet, the Thai national cuisine has gained a high degree of global recognition and admiration despite Thailand being a relatively small country. Is this down to sheer luck, its being an extensive work of art, or, possibly, because of scientific literacy? The Science of Thai Cuisine: Chemical Properties and Sensory Attributes approaches the art of cooking and serving from the perspective of science and proposes the possible rationales behind Thai culinary art. With applied chem- istry and sensory science, it bridges the gap between food science and culinary arts, explaining the functional properties and changes in major ingredients and techniques used in Thai cuisine. Key Features • Discusses the chemistry of ingredients and techniques in Thai cuisine with possibilities of application and innovation • Presents scientific research combined with the arts and history of Thai food • Provides scientific evidence linking Thai food with the sensory perception and the joy of eating • Contains vibrant color photographs of Thai cuisine While there are numerous cookbooks that feature Thai cuisine, none are as dedicated as this to explaining the science behind the ingredients, cooking methods, and sensory aspects. This book will be beneficial to professionals in the food industry, appealing to chefs, food scientists, and sensory analysis experts, as well as anyone who has an interest in Thai culture. The Science of Thai Cuisine Chemical Properties and Sensory Attributes Edited by Valeeratana K. Sinsawasdi, Nithiya Rattanapanone, and Holger Y. Toschka First edition published 2023 by CRC Press 6000 Broken Sound Parkway NW, Suite 300, Boca Raton, FL 33487-2742 and by CRC Press 4 Park Square, Milton Park, Abingdon, Oxon, OX14 4RN CRC Press is an imprint of Taylor & Francis Group, LLC © 2023 selection and editorial matter, Valeeratana K. Sinsawasdi, Nithiya Rattanapanone, and Holger Y. Toschka; individual chapters, the contributors Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but the author and publisher cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all materials or the consequences of their use. The authors and publishers have attempted to trace the copyright holders of all mate- rial reproduced in this publication and apologize to copyright holders if permission to publish in this form has not been obtained. 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Library of Congress Cataloging‑in‑Publication Data Names: Sinsawasdi, Valeeratana K., author. | Rattanapanone, Nithiya, author. | Toschka, Holger Y., author. Title: The science of Thai cuisine : chemical properties and sensory attributes / Valeeratana K. Sinsawasdi, Nithiya Rattanapanone, Holger Y. Toschka. Description: First edition. | Boca Raton : CRC Press, 2022. | Includes bibliographical references and index. Identifiers: LCCN 2021061477 (print) | LCCN 2021061478 (ebook) | ISBN 9781032023281 (hardback) | ISBN 9780367763350 (paperback) | ISBN 9781003182924 (ebook) Subjects: LCSH: Food--Sensory evaluation. | Cooking, Thai. | Food habits--Thailand. Classification: LCC TX546 .S56 2022 (print) | LCC TX546 (ebook) | DDC 664/.072--dc23/eng/20220112 LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2021061477 LC ebook record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2021061478 ISBN: 978-1-032-02328-1 (hbk) ISBN: 978-0-367-76335-0 (pbk) ISBN: 978-1-003-18292-4 (ebk) DOI: 10.1201/9781003182924 Typeset in Caslon by KnowledgeWorks Global Ltd. Contents Preface vii about the editors ix List of contributors xi Part I the thai food cuLture chaPter 1 thai cuisine identity 3 VALEERATANA K. SINSAWASDI AND NATE-TRA DHEVABANCHACHAI chaPter 2 historicaL PersPective of thai cuisine 13 VALEERATANA K. SINSAWASDI AND NARONG SINSAWASDI Part II MuLtisensory ProPerties of thai foods and their sources chaPter 3 fLavor coMPonents and their sources in thai cuisine 31 VALEERATANA K. SINSAWASDI AND NITHIYA RATTANAPANONE v vi Contents chaPter 4 cheMicaL and functionaL ProPerties of notabLe ingredients 65 VALEERATANA K. SINSAWASDI, HOLGER Y. TOSCHKA, AND NITHIYA RATTANAPANONE chaPter 5 scientific PrinciPLes in thai cuisine cooking technique 109 VALEERATANA K. SINSAWASDI AND NITHIYA RATTANAPANONE Part III the cuLinary integration of art and science chaPter 6 eating PLeasure of thai MeaL 135 VALEERATANA K. SINSAWASDI, HOLGER Y. TOSCHKA, AND NITHIYA RATTANAPANONE chaPter 7 gub-khao reciPes: froM Past to Present, froM arts to science 171 VALEERATANA K. SINSAWASDI AND NITHIYA RATTANAPANONE chaPter 8 finaL PersPectives 221 HOLGER Y. TOSCHKA AND VALEERATANA K. SINSAWASDI aPPendix a first MeMory of thai cuisine 231 NATE-TRA DHEVABANCHACHAI AND VALEERATANA K. SINSAWASDI aPPendix b Pad thai reciPe 241 MALLIKA TUMWATTANA AND CHOMPLOY LEERAPHANTE index 245 Preface The intersection of Thai Kitchen Wisdom and Science—The flow of this book. Scientific principles behind local and ancient pearls of wisdom associated with several Thai dishes may be interesting to many. The Science of Thai Cuisine: Chemical Properties and Sensory Attributes begins with Part I, which provides the identity of the cuisine in Chapter 1, followed by the historical perspective of Thai food in Chapter 2. The chapters discuss the evolution and development to understand and distinguish Thai food cultures from others. Part II, Multi-Sensory Properties of Thai Foods and Their Sources, is arranged as a sequence of a transformation, from raw materials to the consumers’ consumption experience. Chapter 3 lays out the sen- sory attributes provided by food components and interactions. The details of compositions, properties, functions, and the characteristics of essential Thai food ingredients, such as rice and fish sauce, are in Chapter 4. To cook into a dish, Chapter 5 explains the changes that have taken place in various cooking methods, such as boiling and curry making. Since Thai meals are composed of all food items served all at the same time, the total experience of eating Thai food is as important as the flavor arising from any individual dish. Then, Part III is the integration of Culinary Arts and Food Science. Starting with Chapter 6, possible explanations of how Thai cuisine vii viii PrefaCe earned its reputation for deliciousness are explored with applicable theories and scientific evidence. Next, in Chapter 7, some famous Thai dishes’ ingredients and cooking methods are demonstrated in various gub-khao recipes. Finally, the book ends with Chapter 8, with the authors’ perspectives on Thai cuisine. About the Editors Valeeratana Kalani Sinsawasdi g rew up in Thailand. Her interest in food started at a very young age as she liked to observe her “khun-ya,” making the meal plan every day. The cooking was labor intensive, yet it was fascinating. She was impressed by how herbs and spices would become invisible in the finished dish but easily detectable through taste and smell. It seems as if the preparation of curry paste was the making of a magic potion. With her other interest in science, Valeeratana has committed her- self to the field of Food Science. First, she received her bachelor’s degree in Food Science from Chiang Mai University, Thailand. Then, a master’s degree from the University of Hawaii and a PhD degree from the University of Florida, USA, all in Food Science. Valeeratana has extensive experience in the food industry. In the USA, with Dean Foods, in Asia and Thailand with Unilever, and as a consultant to various companies. In the academic sphere, she has taught several Food Science courses at Mahidol University, Thailand. Holger Y. Toschka studied Biochemistry and Molecular Biology at the Institute for Biochemistry at Free University in Berlin, focusing on gene structure and expressing of ribosomal genes. ix