The Saint of Kathmandu The Saint of K athm a ndu and Other Tales of the Sacred in Distant Lands Sarah LeVine Beacon Press Boston Beacon Press 25Beacon Street Boston, Massachusetts 02108-2892 www.beacon.org Beacon Press books are published under the auspices of the Unitarian Universalist Association of Congregations. © 2008by Sarah LeVine All rights reserved Printed in the United States of America 11 10 09 08 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 This book is printed on acid-free paper that meets the uncoated paper ANSI/NISO specifications for permanence as revised in 1992. Text design and composition by Susan E. Kelly at Wilsted & Taylor Publishing Services Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data LeVine, Sarah The Saint of Kathmandu : and other tales of the sacred in distant lands / Sarah LeVine. p. cm. ISBN 978-0-8070-1312-0 1. Women—Religious life. 2. Religions. I. Title. BL625.7.L482008 203—dc22 2007045465 Jacket art Top left:Young pilgrims dressed in Aztec costume on procession through the cathedral square on a festival day. San Juan de Los Lagos, Mexico, 1994. Photo by Anna Winger Top center:Members of the Bori spirit possession cult in trance. Northern Nigeria, 1969. Photo by Sarah LeVine Top right:A Muslim chief’s wives with the senior wife’s five-year-old ward. Northern Nigeria, 1969. Photo by Sarah LeVine Bottom:Nepalese nuns circumambulating the tree under which the Buddha was born. Lumbini, Nepal, 1998. Photo by Sarah LeVine Back cover:Looking toward Lake Victoria, western Kenya, 1976. Photo by Sarah LeVine This book is for Nina Murray, and in memory of Judy Gardner, with affection and gratitude. Contents Preface ix [ i] Bori Spirit Possession in a Muslim Town 1 [ ii] Las Tres Marías The Cult of the Virgin in Mexico 43 [ iii] Oborogi Witchcraft in a Kenyan Village 81 [ iv] The Saint of Kathmandu Treading Where the Buddha Trod 119 [ v] El Shaddai Charismatic Christianity in Hong Kong 167 [ vi] Just Sitting Zen in America 203 Preface As an anthropologist, I ask a lot of questions; and I get asked a lot of questions too. In November 2006, I spent a whole day in the house of Jayalakshmi, a South Indian village woman be- longing to a low Hindu caste. I chatted with her, her husband, her mother-in-law, and her five best friends, watched her chil- dren play, quarrel, and make peace, asked everyone questions, wrote many pages of notes, nodded off in the afternoon heat, woke up again, and asked more questions. When evening came, I closed my notebook and said to Jayalakshmi, “I’ve been grill- ing you. Now it’s your turn to grill me,” which she was delighted to do. “How did you get married?” was her first question, and when I explained that no, my parents didn’t arrange my marriage, I chose my husband myself, she frowned. “So you had a love mar- riage. That can happen here too, unfortunately. If a Muslim boy and a girl from our community fall in love, they cannot marry properly so then they elope, and when the girl comes to her hus- band’s house empty-handed her in-laws call her an infidel and treat her badly.” I said that even though my parents hadn’t arranged my mar- riage, I’d had a very nice wedding. I added that though I hadn’t brought them a dowry, my in-laws had treated me well. But Jay- a lakshmi’s expression showed that she didn’t believe me. “Do you and your husband own the house you live in, or do you rent, just as we do?” was her second question. When I re- plied that we owned our house, quick as a whip she said, “If you’re rich, why don’t you wear more gold?” Picking up my left hand, she examined my wedding ring, which had cost ten dol- lars in a cut-rate jewelry store almost forty years ago. “It’s too ix
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