THE SAGRADA FAMÍLIA For Deborah Chambers, ‘La Catalana’, whose kindness and support has meant so much BY THE SAME AUTHOR Antoni Gaudí Guernica: The Biography of a Twentieth-century Icon CONTENTS Prologue Chapter One Chapter Two Chapter Three Chapter Four Chapter Five Chapter Six Chapter Seven Epilogue Acknowledgements Index A Note on the Author PROLOGUE BEHIND THE FAÇADE Gaudí, possibly more than any other architect in history, has been totally misunderstood. Many people take Gaudí’s buildings at face value. They wonder wide-eyed at the audacity, the orgy of colour, the engineering brilliance and outrageous daring, the sensuous surfaces that invite a touch, the wild and wonderful subject matter of dragons and skulls and the gingerbread-style houses made as if copied straight from the nightmare pages of Grimm’s Hansel and Gretel. What they often fail to do is look behind the seductive, sometimes frightening, façade. Of all of Gaudí’s buildings, the Sagrada Família – a true life’s work – is by far the most puzzling and the most quixotic. Its ambition seemingly knows no bounds, and its complex narrative is as mystifying as the visions that Saint John recorded on Patmos, which were later transformed into the Book of Revelation. For the reader expecting a standard guidebook with an easy route to follow, and some simple observations followed by the odd suggestion for what else to see, this is not for you. The Sagrada Família is already so well publicised, so often visited, so often photographed that as the icon for Barcelona, it appears to need no introduction. That is, of course, a wholly simplistic approach to Gaudí’s fantastically complex ‘cathedral’. For more than a century, the ‘real’ Sagrada Família has somehow managed to successfully hide itself behind the blinding glare of the spotlight out there in full public view. If Gaudí’s buildings were misunderstood, so was he. Gaudí as a man was a fascinating catalogue of contradictions: he was both revolutionary and deeply conservative; massively ambitious yet also humble; at the cutting edge yet deliberately medieval; pig-headed and irritable, yet also patient and kind; he was almost the epitome of the Franciscan – happiest when meditating and communing with nature; yet he was also a passionate Catalan nationalist but, paradoxically, at the same time always reaching out towards the universal in his aspirations and ideals. Catalan identity is often described as representing the complex fusion of the two creative extremes embodied in the dialectically opposed concepts of seny and rauxa – cold common sense, versus sometimes explosive outbursts. Gaudí was all of this and more. Part of the reason for dismissing Gaudí so easily as a mere theatrical showman is partly his own fault, or rather the fault of his sheer approachability. For many years, Gaudí was deemed far too popular and lightweight for architectural historians – outside of Catalonia – to take him seriously. He was also seen as far too eccentric, too bizarre and, in Catalonia, the land of Salvador Dalí, almost too obviously surrealist and actually downright strange. Gaudí is a total one-off. But Dalí’s obsessive interest in Gaudí did the architect no favours. In 1933 in the surrealist magazine Minotaure, in an article entitled ‘The Terrifying and Edible Beauty of Art Nouveau Architecture’, Dalí eulogised, rhapsodised then sacrificed Gaudí’s architecture on the altar of his own perverse ego. As always, Dalí was far cleverer than he gave himself credit for. Gaudí’s architecture was sensual, soft, erotic, inviting touch. It was like an ornamental ‘confectioner’s table’, Dalí said, and he was right – it does have the faint echo of those great pièces montées of chocolate, icing and spun sugar constructed by the legendary Antonin Carême for the banquets of tsars, kings and emperors. It was Carême – the first superstar chef – who, puffed up with the pride of his profession, made the rather silly claim that ‘architecture was the most noble of the arts and that pastry was the highest form of architecture’. However, even today Christian Escriba, Catalan’s celebrated chocolatier, is known to construct and carefully mould the odd version of a Gaudí house in chocolate in direct homage to his two masters, the two Antonis, Carême and Gaudí. It’s no secret that Ferran Adrià, the world’s most famous chef, has also frequently looked to Gaudí for inspiration. But Adrià’s adulation goes right to the crux of the Gaudí problem. Seduced by the surface, we are less likely to look behind the scenes. And this is where Ferran Adrià can help us out. Because what we see in Adrià’s extraordinary culinary creations is a search for the science and the hidden structures in the nature of food. And by digging even deeper, Adrià, like Gaudí, is hell-bent on the labyrinthine search for the source of creativity itself. Dalí’s support for what he saw as the ‘delirious’ architecture of Gaudí certainly touched a raw nerve. Gaudí is popular, massively so. He gives joy – fa goig, as he would say in Catalan. But the joy that Gaudí gives comes at the cost of his suffering, of rigorous self-discipline, of painstaking research, and also by the grace of his engineering genius. Finally, of course, right at the centre of his work sits his profound Catholic faith like a hard kernel, inviolate and unbreakable. The Sagrada Família is so unique, and so closely associated with Barcelona, that it is often forgotten that it grew out of a pan-European Catholic revival. In an age when we are so often told that religion is dying, except, of course, when it manifests itself as a good reason for going to war, it is perhaps strange that a building project on the scale of the Sagrada Família still continues to forge ahead. The Sagrada Família is a unique project that is slowly reaching its long- awaited end. If all goes to plan, the gigantic dome, which will double the existing building’s height, will be topped out in 2026 to celebrate the centenary of Gaudí’s death. Like the construction of all churches, it is really in the end that we find the beginning. And the Sagrada Família will be no exception. What I hope to offer the reader is an insight into the creative genius that is Gaudí: to trace the development of the Sagrada Família’s evolution from expiatory temple to basilica, and open a window onto its complex Christian narrative. It is a fascinating story that started with the dreams of an eccentric Barcelona bookseller in the mid-nineteenth century to find a way of celebrating the life of the holy family. Today we witness the near completion of this extraordinary high-tech build. From beginning to end there have been planning battles, misunderstandings, and an alleged attempt to blow it up, and, of course, the tragic death of Gaudí – run over by a tram en route to the ritual of his daily confession at Saint Felipe Neri, down in the old Gothic quarter of Barcelona. Finally, the Sagrada Família’s special status has now been fully acknowledged