The Routledge History of Food

404 Pages·2014·5.146 MB·English

by  Carol Helstosky

THE ROUTLEDGE HISTORY OF FOOD
“Whether motivated by an interest in history or food, all readers will find much to stimu-
late their thinking in this book. Carol Helstosky has assembled a collection of essays that
reflects how diverse and rich the field of food history has become and establishes it as a
research specialisation in its own right that contributes much to the discipline. Focussed on
thelast500years,thecollectionprovidesasynthesisofresearchthatchartsthedirectionof
the field and reflects the transformation of the world food system within the broader his-
torical context; a valuable resource that will introduce food history to a broad audience
and inspire historians to recognize the significance of food for understanding the past and
the everyday.”
Adele Wessell, Southern Cross University, Australia
The history of food is one of the fastest growing areas of historical investigation, incor-
porating methods and theories from cultural, social, and women’s history while forging a
unique perspective on the past. The Routledge History of Food takes a global approach to this
topic, focusing on the period from 1500 to the present day.
Arranged chronologically, this title contains 17 originally commissioned chapters by
experts in food history or related topics. Each chapter focuses on a particular theme, idea,
or issue in the history of food. The case studies discussed in these chapters illuminate the
more general trends of the period, providing the reader with insight into the large-scale
and dramatic changes in food history through an understanding of how these develop-
ments sprang from a specific geographic and historical context.
Examining the history of economic, technological, and cultural interactions between
cultures and charting the corresponding developments in food history, The Routledge History
of Food challenges readers’ assumptions about what and how people have eaten, bringing
fresh perspectives to well-known historical developments. It is the perfect guide for all stu-
dents of social and cultural history.
CarolHelstoskyisAssociateProfessorofHistoryatDenverUniversity.Herpublications
include Food Culture in the Mediterranean (2009), Pizza: A Global History (2008) and Garlic and
Oil: Food and Politics in Modern Italy (2004).
THE ROUTLEDGE HISTORIES
The Routledge Histories is a series of landmark books surveying some of the most important
topics and themes in history today. Edited and written by an international team of world-
renowned experts, they are the works against which all future books on their subjects will
be judged.
THE ROUTLEDGE HISTORY OF WOMEN IN EUROPE SINCE 1700
Edited by Deborah Simonton
THE ROUTLEDGE HISTORY OF SLAVERY
Edited by Gad Heuman and Trevor Burnard
THE ROUTLEDGE HISTORY OF THE HOLOCAUST
Edited by Jonathan C. Friedman
THE ROUTLEDGE HISTORY OF CHILDHOOD IN THE WESTERN WORLD
Edited by Paula S. Fass
THE ROUTLEDGE HISTORY OF SEX AND THE BODY
Edited by Kate Fisher and Sarah Toulalan
THE ROUTLEDGE HISTORY OF WESTERN EMPIRES
Edited by Robert Aldrich and Kirsten McKenzie
Forthcoming:
THE ROUTLEDGE HISTORY OF GENOCIDE
Edited by Cathie Carmichael and Richard Maguire
THE ROUTLEDGE HISTORY OF EAST CENTRAL EUROPE
Edited by Irina Livezeanu and Arpad von Klimo
THE ROUTLEDGE HISTORY OF MEDIEVAL CHRISTIANITY
Edited by Robert Swanson
THE ROUTLEDGE
HISTORY OF FOOD
Edited by
Carol Helstosky
Firstpublished2015
byRoutledge
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©2015CarolHelstoskyforselectionandeditorialmatter;individualextracts,thecontributors
The right of Carol Helstosky to be identified as author of the editorial material, and of the
contributorsfortheir individual chapters,hasbeenassertedinaccordancewithsections 77and 78
oftheCopyright,DesignsandPatentsAct1988.
Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthisbookmaybereprintedorreproducedorutilizedinanyformor
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usedonlyforidentificationandexplanationwithoutintenttoinfringe.
BritishLibraryCataloguinginPublicationData
AcataloguerecordforthisbookisavailablefromtheBritishLibrary
LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationData
TheRoutledgehistoryoffood.
pagescm.–(TheRoutledgehistories)
Includesbibliographicalreferencesandindex.
1.Food–History.2.Foodindustryandtrade–History.3.Eatingcustoms–History.
TX355.R6852014
394.1’209–dc23
2014019148
ISBN:978-0-415-62847-1(hbk)
ISBN:978-1-315-75345-4(ebk)
TypesetinBaskerville
byTaylor&FrancisBooks
CONTENTS
List of illustrations vii
Notes on contributors viii
Introduction
Food and the historian xii
CAROLHELSTOSKY
PART I 1
1500–1700
1 The magic of Japanese rice cakes 3
ERICC.RATH
2 Food production, consumption, and identity politics in Tahuantinsuyu and
colonial Perú 19
ALISONKRÖGEL
3 Stimulants and intoxicants in Europe, 1500–1700 42
KENALBALA
4 Science, food and health in Chosoˇn Korea 61
MICHAELJ.PETTID
PART II 79
1700–1900
5 Food shortage in colonial Mexico: maize, food policies and the construction of a
modern political culture, 1785–1807 81
SARAHBAK-GELLERCORONA
6 “IftheKinghadreallybeenafathertous”:failedfooddiplomacy ineighteenth-
century Sierra Leone 92
RACHELB.HERRMANN
v
CONTENTS
7 Stolen bodies, edible memories: the influence and function of West African
foodways in the early British Atlantic 113
KELLEYFANTODEETZ
8 Spreading the word: using cookbooks and colonial memoirs to examine the
foodways of British colonials in Asia, 1850–1900 131
CECILIALEONG-SALOBIR
9 The globalization of alcohol and temperance from the gin craze to prohibition 156
JEFFREYM.PILCHER
10 “Peace on earth among the orders of creation”: vegetarian ethics in the United
States before World War I 179
BERNARDUNTI
11 Food, medicine and institutional life in the British Isles, c.1790–1900 200
IANMILLER
12 Industrializing diet, industrializing ourselves: technology, food, and the body,
since 1750 220
CHRISOTTER
PART III 247
1900–present
13 The evolution of a fast food phenomenon: the case of American pizza 249
BONNIEM.MILLER
14 Cooking class: the rise of the “foodie” and the role of mass media 270
KATHLEENCOLLINS
15 Tourism, cuisine, and the consumption of culture in the Caribbean 291
CARLAGUERRÓNMONTERO
16 Food and migration in the twentieth century 313
LARESHJAYASANKER
17 Quick rice: international development and the Green Revolution in Sierra
Leone, 1960–1976 332
ZACHARYD.POPPEL
Suggestions for further reading 352
Index 356
vi
ILLUSTRATIONS
Figures
1.1 NewYear’sdecorationofKagamimochiricecakes 7
2.1 “An Inca asks a Spaniard what he eats, he replies ‘Gold’” by Guaman Poma 32
3.1 “TheKingDrinks”byJacobJordaens 46
3.2 “Gin Lane,” engraving after Hogarth 50
3.3 “BeerStreet,”engravingafterHogarth 51
12.1 Steam thresher 222
12.2 Crossbred wheat 223
12.3 German abridged high milling 226
12.4 Loading ice into refrigerated trucks 229
12.5 Beef refrigeration equipment 231
12.6 Insulated motor van 232
12.7 Boxed apples 233
16.1 Photograph of Charles Phan, founder of The Slanted Door, 2010 315
16.2 Photograph of David Brown inside India House, 1961 322
16.3 Advertisement and menu for India House 323
Tables
4.1 The Five Phases and their associations 63
8.1 Collection of recipes for Indian cookery, 1910 142
Maps
2.1 Map of Tahuantinsuyu, Incan expansion by 1532 20
15.1 Map of Panama 295
15.2 Map of Bocas del Toro, Panama 300
16.1 Map of India following the 1947 partition 319
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CONTRIBUTORS
Ken Albala is Professor of History at the University of the Pacific in Stockton,
California. He is the author or editor of 17 books on food including Eating Right in the
Renaissance, Food in Early Modern Europe, Cooking in Europe 1250–1650, The Banquet,
Beans (winner of the 2008 IACP Jane Grigson Award), Pancake, and a small book
entitled Grow Food, Cook Food, Share Food. Until recently he was co-editor of the
journal Food, Culture and Society. He has also co-edited The Business of Food, Human
Cuisine, Food and Faith and edited A Cultural History of Food: The Renaissance and The
Routledge International Handbook to Food Studies. Albala was also editor of the Food
Cultures Around the World series, the four-volume Food Cultures of the World
Encyclopedia and is now series editor of Rowman & Littlefield Studies in Food and
Gastronomy for which he has written Three World Cuisines: Italian, Chinese,
Mexican (winner of the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards’ best foreign cuisine book
in the world for 2012). He has co-authored two cookbooks: The Lost Art of Real
CookingandTheLostArtsofHearthandHome.In2014,hewillpublishFoodHistoryReader:
Primary Sources, Nuts: A Global History, and a translation of the sixteenth-century
cookbook Livre fort excellent de cuysine. Albala is currently editing a three-volume ency-
clopedia on Food Issues.
SarahBak-GellerCoronareceivedherdoctorateinhistoryfromtheÉcoledesHautes
Études in Social Sciences (Paris, France). She has written articles and book chapters
about cuisine, culture, and power in Latin American colonial contexts; food, body,
andraceinMexico;culinaryrecipesandnationalidentities;thespreadofgastronomic
models between Iberoamerica and France and indigenous food heritage in America.
Bak-Geller Corona is the author of Habitar una cocina (2006) and Nacionalismos culinarios
en América Latina, to be published by the Dirección General de Culturas Populares-
CONACULTA.
Kathleen Collins is an academic librarian at the City University of New York. She has
written about food, popular culture, television, and media history in both the scholarly
and popular press. Her publications on food culture include Watching What We Eat: The
Evolution of Television Cooking Shows; “A Kitchen of One’s Own: The Paradox of Dione
Lucas,” Camera Obscura: Feminism, Culture, and Media Studies, 2012, 1–23; and “There’s No
Such Thing as Crack Pie Babies,” 2 Bridges Review, Fall 2012, 89–92.
Kelley Fanto Deetz specializes in African American history, foodways, and material
culture. She is currently working on a book, Bound to the Fire: Virginia’s Enslaved Cooks and
viii
CONTRIBUTORS
Their Kitchens, and is a Research Associate for the President’s Commission on Slavery
and theUniversity,attheUniversity ofVirginia. Shereceived herB.A.inBlack Studies
and History from The College of William and Mary, and her M.A. and Ph.D. in
African Diaspora Studies at U.C. Berkeley.
Carol Helstosky is an Associate Professor of History at the University of Denver in
Colorado.SheistheauthorofGarlicandOil:FoodandPoliticsinModernItaly(2004);Pizza:
A Global History (2008); and Food Culture in the Mediterranean (2009). She is currently
working on a book-length study of the art market in nineteenth-century Italy.
Rachel B. Herrmann is a lecturer inearly modern American history at the University of
Southampton. Her first book project asks how Native Americans, free blacks, and slaves
usedfoodto wage war and brokerpeace during and afterthe AmericanRevolution.She
has previously written about cannibalism in colonial Jamestown for the William and Mary
Quarterly, and is currently editing a book on cannibalism in the early modern Atlantic
World. She is a founding member of The Junto: A Group Blog on Early American History.
Laresh Jayasanker is an Assistant Professor of History at Metropolitan State University
of Denver (Colorado). His publications include “Tortilla Politics: Mexican Food, Glo-
balization and the Sunbelt,” in Sunbelt Rising: The Politics of Space, Place, and Region in the
American South and Southwest, and “Indian Restaurants in San Francisco and America: A
Case Study in Translating Diversity, 1965–2005,” in Food & History. He is writing a
book, Sameness in Diversity: Food Culture and Globalization in Modern America. He received his
Ph.D. from the University of Texas at Austin.
Alison Krögel is an associate professor of Spanish at the University of Denver. Her
research includes studies of contemporary Quechua and Kichwa-language poetry and
oral traditions, as well as the roles played by food, cooks, and marketwomen in colonial
andcontemporaryAndeanliteratureandculture.TherecipientofaFulbrightResearch
Grant to Ecuador (2013–14), she has published the book Food, Power and Resistance in
Quechua Verbal and Visual Narratives, as well as articles in journals such as: Revista de crítica
literaria latinoamericana, Journal of Latin American and Caribbean Anthropology, Food and Food-
ways, Revista de estudios bolivianos, and Kipus: Revista andina de letras.
Cecilia Leong-Salobir is the author of Food Culture in Colonial Asia: A Taste of Empire and
is Research Fellow at the University of Wollongong, Australia. She is currently working
on a book-length project on the food history of Australia and Singapore. She co-edited
“Western Australia in the Indian Ocean World” in Studies in Western Australian His-
tory, 28, 2013. Prior to her present position, Cecilia was the Coordinator of the Centre
for Western Australian History at the University of Western Australia. Cecilia is a
founding member of the editorial board for the journal Global Food History and writes
her food history blog on The Digest.
Bonnie M. Miller is Associate Professor of American Studies at University of Massachu-
setts Boston. She published From Liberation to Conquest: The Visual and Popular Cultures of the
Spanish-American War of 1898 in 2011. She has also published articles in the Journal of
American Studies, American Studies, and the Bulletin of Hispanic Studies. She specializes in visual
culturestudies,particularlythehistoryofphotography,cartooning,andearlycinema,and
recentlyexpandedherinterestsintofoodhistories.BonnieMillerteachescoursesinvisual
culture/media studies andAmericansocialand cultural history from1600tothepresent.
ix