The Rough Guide to the Bahamas (Rough Guide Travel Guides)

372 Pages·2007·17.4 MB·English

by  Rough Guides, Natalie Folster, Gaylord Dold

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The Rough Guide to
The Bahamas
written and researched by
Natalie Folster and Gaylord Dold
NEW YORK • LONDON • DELHI
www.roughguides.com
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Contents

Colour section 1–16 5 The Biminis and the Berry
Islands .......................... 191
Introduction ............................... 6 6 Eleuthera .......................... 211
Where to go ............................... 9 7 The Exumas ..................... 245
When to go .............................. 11 8 Cat Island and San
Things not to miss ................... 1 Salvador ........................ 279
9 The south islands ............. 0
Basics 17–52
Getting there ........................... 19 Contexts 327–354
Getting around ........................ 2 History ................................... 29
Accommodation ...................... 0 Society and culture ................ 9
Eating and drinking .................. 2 Flora and fauna ...................... 42
The media ............................... 5 Books .................................... 50
Festivals................................... 5

Sports and outdoor activities ... 7 Travel store 355–356
Culture and etiquette ............... 41
Shopping ................................ 41
Travelling with children............. 42 Small print & Index 357–368
Travel essentials ...................... 4

Guide 53–326 Bcualhtuarme acso lboeuar cshe ction
1 New Providence and following p.160
Paradise Island ............... 55
2 Grand Bahama ................... 99 Underwater Bahamas
3 The Abacos ...................... 1 colour section
4 Andros ............................ 167 following p.272

 Cape Santa Maria Beach, Long Island  Sailing at the George Town Cruising Regatta
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| Contents |
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5
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Introduction to
The
Bahamas
Graced with beautiful beaches, turquoise seas, reliable
sunshine, an admirably relaxed lifestyle and countless
opportunities for diving, snorkelling, boating and fshing,
the Bahamas are well established as one of the world’s top
draws for both sun-seeking vacationers and adventurous
explorers. Indeed, more than three million people visit the
country yearly, the majority here for outdoor sports and
sun worship. Despite the volume of visitors, it is easy to
avoid the hordes and fnd your own quiet patch of paradise
when you crave it or to get a feel for Bahamian culture
– there is some history and authenticity behind the gloss.
An archipelago beginning a mere 55 miles east of
Miami, the Bahamas include around seven hundred
islands, no more than forty of which are inhabited,
as well as scores of smaller cays (pronounced “keys”).
Unlike some of its Caribbean neighbours, the islands
ofer an array of accommodation that ranges from
plush high-end resorts to rustic lodges, appealing to
travellers of all tastes and budgets.
Though visiting all of the major islands on the
Bahamian archipelago in one trip would involve some complicated logis-
tics and a thick wallet, it is well worth soaking up more of the region’s
culture by exploring several islands. While they share a similar geography
and culture, each island has its own distinct character and unique charms.
The quickest way to hop around is by plane, though if time permits a trip
6 on a government mailboat, fast ferry or chartered yacht is both more relax-
ing and memorable. Most island-hopping adventures entail spending time
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in either New Providence or Grand Bahama,
Fact file
the two most cosmopolitan destinations and
the target of innumerable package holidays. • The name Bahamas
comes from the
Most islands are encircled by shallow, Spanish baja mar,
crystalline water that refects a light meaning “shallow sea”.
turquoise hue during the day and glows • The population
of the Bahamas is
with purple luminescence at night
approximately 21,000,
of whom more than
However, forays into the Out Islands reward two-thirds live on
visitors with a slice of genuine fshing-village the island of New
Providence. Eighty-
culture and a glimpse of Bahamian life outside
fve percent of the
of the pre-packaged tour circuit.
populace is black,
Wherever you happen to land, it is possible
about twelve percent
to immerse yourself in the Bahamas’ intrigu- is white and the
ing mix of colonial and African traditions. remainder is largely
Asian or Hispanic.
This fusion is perhaps most apparent during
Nassau’s annual Junkanoo celebrations, when • While the Bahamas
achieved independence
the exuberant street party propelled by African
from Britain on July 10,
drumming and outlandish costumes marches
197, the head of state
past the capital’s impressive colonial edifces. is Queen Elizabeth II,
Other islands come to life for numerous sail- who is represented in
ing regattas, featuring beachside fsh fries and Nassau by a governor
general. The Bahamas
the sounds of rake ‘n’ scrape, a distinctly Baha-
are governed by a
mian style of music.
Prime Minister, and
The ocean, though, is still the main draw. the legislature is a
Although deeper oceanic troughs surround bicameral body that
some of the islands, most are encircled by is constituted by a
sixteen-member Senate
shallow, crystalline water that refects a light
and a forty-member
turquoise hue during the day and glows
House of Assembly.
with purple luminescence at night. This
• The average per
capita income in the
Bahamas is a relatively
high $16,000; tourism
accounts for around
sixty percent of the
national income.
• The Yellow Elder is
the national fower of
the Bahamas, and the
national tree is the
lignum vitae, or tree 7
of life.
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 Grand Bahamas Island schoolgirls
Bahamian seafood
With the Bahamas’ reputation as a fsherman’s paradise, the wide array
of seafood available is unsurprising. Ubiquitous on menus throughout
the islands and a frm local favourite, conch (pronounced “konk”) is a
snail-like mollusc that can be broiled, grilled, steamed, stewed, served
raw or presented “cracked” with its tenderized meat deep-fried in batter.
Deep-fat-fried balls called conch fritters are a top side dish, while one of
the islands’ culinary delights is conch chowder; we’ve included a recipe
below, though it undoubtedly tastes best when eaten beachside. The
grouper, a light, feshy white fsh, is another staple of the Bahamian diet
and, like much Bahamian fsh, is most often served deep-fried in batter.
Bahamian lobster can be eaten freshly grilled or broiled, steamed and
curried, while crab is generally baked and served in the shell.
Perhaps the freshest – and certainly the cheapest – places to sample
these dishes are the seafood shacks that are pervasive on all islands. From
Arawak Cay (see p.2) in busy Nassau Harbour to those in rustic Out Island
fshing hamlets, these low-key restaurants and grills should not be missed,
both for the freshness of the food and the congenial atmosphere.
Conch chowder Bahamian-style
or 4 ground conch 1 bay leaf
2 medium diced onions 1/2 cup sugar
1 cup chopped celery 1 teaspoon oregano
1 medium green pepper, chopped 2 teaspoons lime juice
1/2 teaspoon thyme 1 large can of tomatoes
1 clove garlic

Fry the onions, green pepper, celery, garlic and all the spices in a small
amount of fat. When onions are transparent, add tomatoes and simmer
for thirty minutes. Add conch and simmer for another thirty to forty-fve
minutes. Add lime juice and some sherry to taste after cooking and serve
piping hot. If you’d like to eat it as the locals do, liberally add hot pepper
sauce from time to time while the chowder is cooking

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