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The Rough Guide to Guatemala 4 (Rough Guide Travel Guides) PDF

492 Pages·2009·13.41 MB·English
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" - " .FTJMMB 4PMPNB 5FHVDJHBMQJUB $BIBCØO 3ÓP%VMDF 4BO+VBO*YDPZ 1BKBM &OUSF &M&TUPS 5PEPT4BOUPT 4BMRVJM(SBOEF -BORVÓO 3ÓPT $VDIVNBUÈO $IBKVM $PCÈO -BHPEF*[BCBM -B3VJEPTB $PSJOUP 4BO1FESP $VJMDP $" $IJBOUMB "HVBD/BUFÈCOBK 4$BPOU[+BVMBO 4BO$7SFJTSUBØQCBB[M $BSDIÈ 4FOBIÞ 1BO[ØT .BSJTDPT #.BOPSBBOMFSTB ;BDVMFV 5BDUJD 5BNBIÞ 6TQBOUÈO 5FMFNÈO 5BDBOÈ )VFIVFUFOBOHP 4BDBQVMBT 5VDVSÞ 1VSVMIÈ 2VJSJHVÈ $VCVMDP 4BMBNÈ -B&OUSBEB .PNPTUFOBOHP $4SVB[OUEBFM $IJOJRVF ;BDVBMQB 3BCJOBM 3ÓP)POEP 4BO1FESP 4BO 2VJDIÏ +PZBCBK ;BDBQB 5BMJTNÈO 'SBODJTDP 1BDIBMVN &M$IPM &M3BODIP 4BO FM"MUP $IJDIJDBTUFOBOHP $PQÈO3VJOBT .BSDPT 5PUPOJDBQÈO (SBOBEPT &M'MPSJEP &M1SPHSFTP +PDPUÈO 2VFU[BMUFOBOHP $" 4PMPMÈ 4BO.BSUÓO+JMPUFQFRVF $IJRVJNVMB $PQÈO ;VOJM $PNPUÈO 1BOBKBDIFM 4BO+VBO4BDBUFQÏRVF[ -BHPEF"UJUMÈO $IJNBMUFOBOHP ) 0 / % 6 3 " 4 5FDÞO6NÈO 4BOUJBHP"UJUMÈO (6"5&."-"$*5: +BMBQB 4BOUB3PTB *QBMB $VZPUFOBOHP 4BO-VDBT EF$PQÈO 0DPT 3FUBMIVMFV .B[BUFOBOHP5PMJNÈO -BH"POUEJHFVB 4B1OJO+VPMBTÏ .PSB[ÈO .POKBT &TRVJQVMBT 5JMBQB 4BOUB-VDÓB "NBUJUMÈO /VFWP $PU[VNBMHVBQB $PDBMFT 1BMÓO 0DPUFQFRVF +VUJBQB $IBNQFSJDP &TDVJOUMB "TVODJØO $VJMBQB $" .JUB &M5VMBUF $IJRVJNVMJMMB 5BYJTDP 7BMMF/VFWP *[UBQB 4JQBDBUF 5FDPKBUF .POUFSSJDP 4BOUB"OB 1VFSUP 4BO+PTÏ $JVEBE1FESP -BT-JTBT EF"MWBSBEP "QBOFDB 1 " $ * ' * $ 0 $ & " / & - 4 " - 7 " % 0 3 LN 4POTPOBUF 4BO4BMWBEPS * . 3 & * " / / 5 " $"33&5&3" &"3 $ 3 " 0 $ $ ¶ ' * " -1" & & 5 3 * 3 / " " " / Introduction to Guatemala Spanning a mountainous slice of Central America immediately south of Mexico, Guatemala is loaded with incredible natural, historical and cultural appeal. As the birthplace and heartland of the ancient Maya, the country is in many ways defined by the legacy of this early civilization. Their rainforest cities were abandoned centuries ago, but Maya people continue to thrive in the Guatemalan highlands, where traditions and religious rituals, mingled with Catholic practices, endure to form perhaps the richest and most distinctive indigenous identity in the hemisphere. Guatemala today is very much a synthesis of Maya and colonial traditions, fused with the omnipresent infuences of twenty-frst-century Latin and North American culture. Baroque churches dating back to the Spanish conquest coexist with pagan temples that have been sites of worship for millennia. Highland street markets prosper alongside vast glitzy shopping malls, and pre-Columbian festival dances are performed by teenage hip-hop fans. Guatemala is still very much a developing nation, a young democ- racy with a turbulent and bloody history that’s beset by deep-rooted inequalities. And yet, despite alarming levels of poverty and unemploy- ment most Guatemalans are extraordinarily courteous and helpful to 6 travellers, and only too eager to help you catch the right bus or practise your Spanish. 04 Guatemala Colour section.indd6 6 11/17/08 3:38:38 PM | INTRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN TO GO It’s this genuine and profound hospi- tality combined with the country’s Fact file outstanding cultural legacy and • The republic of Guatemala is astonishing natural beauty that situated at the northern end of makes Guatemala such a compelling the Central American isthmus. place for travellers. Its 108,890 square kilometres include dozens of volcanoes (four are active), 328km of Pacific coastline and 74km of Caribbean coast. • Guatemala’s population was Where to go estimated at 14.6 million in 2008, with a growth rate of 2.4 uatemala ofers a startling ipne trhce nWt epsetre arn nhuemm i(sthpeh ehrieg)h. est range of landscapes, defned Over a million Guatemalans live by extremes. Most travellers in the USA and Canada. G frst head for Antigua, the • Ethnically, the population is delightful former colonial capital, its almost equally divided between refned atmosphere and café society indigenous Maya and ladinos (who are mainly of mixed race), although there are tiny numbers of black Garífuna (about 8000 in all), ethnic Chinese and non- Maya Xinca. Though Spanish is the official language, 23 other languages are spoken, including K’iche’, Mam, Kaqchikel and Q’eqchi’. • Tourism is the nation’s main income earner, followed by coffee, sugar, clothing exports and bananas. • About 60 percent of Guate- malans are nominally Roman Catholic – the lowest figure in Latin America – though many highland Maya practise a unique mix of religions that’s heavily dependent on ancient religious ritual. Most others worship at US-based evangelical Protes- tant churches. • Guatemala’s 36-year civil war ended in 1996. The nation is now a democratic republic, headed by a president who is head of 7 both state and government. 04 Guatemala Colour section.indd7 7 11/17/08 3:38:43 PM | INTRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN TO GO 왖 Chichicastenango market contrasting with the chaotic fume-flled streets of Guatemala City. Next on your list should be the Maya-dominated western highlands, a region of mesmerizing beauty, with volcanic cones soaring above pine-clad hills, traditional villages and shimmering lakes. The strength of the Maya culture here is evident with each village having its own textile weaving tradition and unique festa celebrations. Lago de Atitlán, an astonishingly beautiful lake ringed by sentinel- like volcanoes, is unmissable. The shores of the lake are dotted with charming indigenous villages such as Santa Cruz La Laguna, where you’ll fnd some fne places to stay and breathtaking shoreline hikes, and San Pedro La Laguna, with its bohemian scene and rock-bottom An archeological hotbed The remote jungles of Petén are one of the most exciting archeological zones in the world, the target of more than a dozen ongoing digs that have unearthed several revelatory findings. Major progress in the reading of Maya glyphs has meant that the history and the nature of Maya society is becoming increasingly clear. Ruling family lineages, dates of accessions and wars and the key political alliances are being steadily chronicled. Meanwhile, it’s been established that blood-letting and human sacrifice were pivotal to Maya religious life. In the last few years discoveries have included a 2500-year-old ball court at Nakbé, some stupendous Preclassic murals at San Bartolo, thousands of ceramic 8 pieces at La Blanca and even a complete “lost city” – Wakná, located near El Mirador, found using satellite imagery. 04 Guatemala Colour section.indd8 8 11/17/08 3:38:48 PM 왔 Nebaj | INTRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN TO GO

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