The Rough Guide to Dorset, Hampshire & the Isle of Wight

298 Pages·2017·41.176 MB·English

by  Matthew Hancock, Amanda Tomlin

INSIDE THIS BOOK
START YOUR JOURNEY WITH ROUGH GUIDES
INTRODUCTION What to see, what not to miss, itineraries and more – everything
you need to get started
BASICS Pre-departure tips and practical information
THE GUIDE Comprehensive, in-depth guide to the region, with area highlights and
full-colour maps throughout
CONTEXTS History and wildlife, plus recommended books about Dorset,
Hampshire and the Isle of Wight
We’ve fl agged up our favourite places – a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric café, a special TRUSTED TRAVEL GUIDES Since 1982, our books have helped over 35 million
restaurant – throughout the Guide with the symbol travellers explore the world with accurate, honest and informed travel writing.
★
Dorset, Hampshire and the Isle of Wight chapters
BERKSHIRE
N Bath
POCKET ROUGH GUIDES “Best of” section, essential itineraries and a unique
Basingstoke
WILTSHIRE pull-out map featuring every sight and listing in the guide. Hip, handy and
7 perfect for short trips and weekend breaks.
Stockbridge HAMPSHIRE
SOMERSET
Salisbury
Shaftesbury Winchester
Yeovil Sherborne 8 SWUSESSETX
5 Southampton
DORSET Blandford
4 3 Forum WMiinmsbteorrne 6 Brockenhurst
Lymington Portsmouth
RLyemgies Bridport DorchesteWrareham Poole 1BournemoCuhtrhistchurch NewCpoowrets Ryde
2 9 Sandown
Weymouth Swanage Isle of Shanklin DIGITAL Choose from our easy-
0 miles 10 Wight Ventnor to-use ebooks and great-value
0 kms 10 Isle of Portland ENGLISH CHANNEL Snapshots to read on your tablet,
1 Bournemouth and Poole 4 Western Dorset 7 Winchester and northern Hampshire phone or e-reader.
2 The Isle of Purbeck 5 East Dorset and the Avon Valley 8 Southampton, Portsmouth and around
3 Central Dorset 6 The New Forest 9 The Isle of Wight
ROUGHGUIDES.COM Buy all our
latest ebooks and get inspired
with travel features, quizzes
and more.
Make the Most of Your Time on Earth at roughguides.com
This third edition published January 2017
Dorset_IW_3_293457_InsideCover.indd 1 14/09/16 1:55 pm
THE ROUGH GUIDE TO
Dorset, Hampshire
and the Isle of Wight
written and researched by
Matthew Hancock and Amanda Tomlin
roughguides.com
001_017_Dorset_IW_3_Intro.indd 1 30/08/16 12:05 pm
001_017_Dorset_IW_3_Intro.indd 2 30/08/16 12:05 pm
INTRODUCTION 3
Contents
INTRODUCTION 4
Where to go 6 Things not to miss 10
When to go 8 Itineraries 16
Author picks 9
BASICS 18
Getting there 19 Festivals 26
Getting around 20 Sports and outdoor activities 28
Accommodation 22 Travel essentials 30
Food and drink 24
THE GUIDE 34
1 Bournemouth and Poole 34 6 The New Forest 158
2 The Isle of Purbeck 60 7 Winchester and northern Hampshire 190
3 Central Dorset 84 8 Southampton, Portsmouth and
around 214
4 Western Dorset 106
9 The Isle of Wight 244
5 East Dorset and the Avon Valley 136
CONTEXTS 276
History 277 Books 285
Wildlife 283
SMALL PRINT & INDEX 287
OPPOSITE LYME REGIS HARBOUR PREVIOUS PAGE PILSDON PEN, DORSET
001_017_Dorset_IW_3_Intro.indd 3 30/08/16 12:05 pm
4IDicoDannofIo N uaLrtT onsdRrnentiOortvod,yDe oHsdrUinsaddCe,mue Tr ya IaopOrcnrusNsah dt cyiti ras ooeonef ma h nbrnieecd h ttcb teoyehesca,e,l uii nn ItsgciH lfel uuIi nold pfsti nWwlaagocilg e foahsefn tt m Etoman ssagt tyailcao yb n.c eWdop r’asietfs fihltalniitn nseiv Wesaet, c lsnhyot ausutmnpionlaeiniiln lao rgblgf p uuhateno rtsukhhpsre,so y’ id lptr ativcek ABERKSHIRE553444336AA833A03AA33M40A343333A93A43AAldershot8Basingstoke33AA033A344A22 Andover3MS13AURA303ChawtonRAltonE50HAMPSHIRE34AY3StockbridgeA833ASelborneAlresford033AA1Salisbury3AWinchester23A7540533AAA2732MAAA2SOUTH DOWNS337263Petersfield8RomseyNATIONAL PARKWEST72M3ASUSSEXSouthamptonFordingbridge23A563)A8M2LyndhurstA(M2371A3AANEW FOREST3Chichester2Fareham6NATIONAL PARKRingwoodBrockenhurstPortsmouth53AA337CowesHaylingLymingtonIslandtneloRydeS ehTChristchurchYarmouth4503AurnemouthNewportIsle of WightA3056SandownThe NeedlesAShanklin3055FeetVentnor500ENGLISH CHANNEL250 0
discovering the country’s only UNESCO Natural Heritage Site, exploring its AA334422 E Bo
tThpIofrAWSgfnmrbrsaooteeterpuralrsaSmtsiei uosomi igiacotleeagbnletvmwik tohpdrtansiveinipt sgudo tnai sseuse Boan gar hso er–dakiroffaaa gedstnofC a lnte yfss hstaa p aet rt cnhh.dron Ehad . pfoa TdcoeTh twnteAen biocs p,grroen ds gekrea nNmewlwmoieg asl, w toadae o ac,eerafsbia gnsenifo slr adallnlu tlrl dd liradnat-iaahacelgtthst’rli indpns satioe enadphe ttwib dhd gs-n togyta tdc1,l iry ha’h spc s eachoewoa9tl oet ela,kaahiublsl 5 n seluityncastoeNlnft0eeer,dyon e o r alsktecashf n usad ytrdft,oo,lwito ii ron t ot ypdicwutiotrosstt tnlh hweFobtin meg ydiotsl oeter a e taEo oeyhf tno rlsctIomsr Heconeol hkfasm:g nrsk s lomgl euHs oSae oyltemelr pin m’r oafae fnvosaaeoomdner autnmef tspodwssinid itoffsdotniW fsoshesypy,ie h.t ed mlnt,alrltosvas ihraeihhe h mmrtgerei.feepne oetw inohl nI rpsue eudcsutttose ana cto ou sa ,snyaohmfsh iedmuniao ssttdn alt e m ,niouumarshcw ne,nlo sft sso iohlgte rt husintpotoim cyest itheaB nrcp dl’klv isnlfeeeemdetog eh aei s gs bnsdin dysntoeu udtbetehc g re iariow tnstteoveevvtwvaht hel.asaa teai oyb nt ohftlresMll,oli.gelho,t yu odee Pfplyse pwns i’ uen,astofonta mx i rc hhmgrivnpJebfiochstaeia eud u nsmceoa n BinlomShl nrnssleeayrtg lfto d ter,ies–o p–eA thlt ea tfneo ufauh tveeiur olnhnbnttlieisi wsrlnhedc t e icstel a.isna , o’i eel ssl g sitaupInganlown tscAtoaclidr r ’nt Bo atsnn,sigil htiOa t ilpmilnhedntiayhvnVl eghe-,leg e Eg a sshdhsaei tda Socltb. eth t alTns afIh c lUihsesse hsildgli Defelew tiecoeeg rLff aroAo m e essoaNncsi .nDfdtoe ki dc Bef A Y DORSET, HAMPSHIRE &BathDevizesTHE ISLE OF WIGHTTrowbridgeA360N163AA36 WILTSHIRFromeWellsWarminster163A953AA13663AA3Glastonbury9M0553AAA337722303ASOMERSET 3030A3A 95883077333AAAAShaftesbury 05Yeovil3ASherborne303A453AAA303035Crewkerne2Chard03ABlandford ForumA3DORSET7A356 Cerne AbbasWimborne Minster45133AA136A60A533ACharmouth3A5A035BridportA325A35A3Lyme Regis5PooleWest BayDorchesterWareham A3533A5A3512A3C5PURBECKh4esil WeymouthBeaLulworthchSwanageCove miles100Isle of Portlandkilometres200
001_017_Dorset_IW_3_Intro.indd 4 30/08/16 12:05 pm
ABERKSHIREDORSET, HAMPSHIRE &553Bath444336AADevizesTHE ISLE OF WIGHT833A03ATrowbridgeAA333M460A3043AA33344N3223A931A4633AAA36Aldershot8WILTSHIREBasingstoke33AA033AFrome344WellsA22WarminsterAndover163AS13A9U53AA31R3A63M0633ChawtonAAR3Glastonbury9AltonEM500HAMPSHIRE345A5Y3Stockbridge3A8AAA3377223330A3ASelborneAlresfordSOMERSET033AA1Salisbury3AWinchester23A73030A3A540533AAA27329M5A88AA307723SOUTH DOWNS33337AAA2A63PetersfieldShaftesbury8RomseyNATIONAL PARKWEST072M5Yeovil33AASUSSEXSherborneFordingbridge303A45Southampton3A23AA3030A35Crewkerne5632A8MChard2LyndhurstAM032A371ABlandford Forum3AANEW FORESTA3Chichester2Fareham36DORSET7ANATIONAL PARKRingwood356BrockenhurstCerne AbbasWimborne Minster451Portsmouth335AA3AA3136A367CowesHayling0LymingtonA533ACharmouth3A5IslandA03tn5BridporteA3l2o5RydeS ehA3T5ChristchurchA3Lyme Regis5Yarmouth45Poole03AWest BayBournemouthDorchesterWarehamNewportIsle of WightA3533A5AA30563512ASandownThe Needles3C5PURBECKh4esiAShanklinl 3WeymouthB0e5a5LulworthchSwanageFeetCoveVentnor500ENGLISH CHANNELmiles100250Isle of Portland0kilometres200
001_017_Dorset_IW_3_Intro.indd 5 13/09/16 2:29 pm
6 INTRODUCTION
The west of the island overlooks Dorset, that much further from the capital and
correspondingly more rural and unspoilt. Most visitors flock to its coastline, which
boasts some of the best beaches in the UK – from the extensive sands of Bournemouth to
the extraordinary Chesil Beach off the Isle of Portland. It also embraces the Jurassic
Coast, England’s only UNESCO Natural Heritage Site, whose varied coastline exposes
an extraordinary geological mixture of rock stacks, arches and coves. Inland, you’ll find
the historic towns of Sherborne and Shaftesbury as well as pretty, quintessentially
English villages surrounded by rolling downs, heathlands and deep river valleys. This is
superb terrain for nature lovers, cyclists and walkers, and is usually fairly uncrowded even
when the coasts are heaving.
The region’s strategic position between the capital and the coast has made it home to
countless famous people throughout the ages, from the legendary King Arthur (whose
supposed Round Table is displayed in Winchester) to Sir Walter Raleigh in Sherborne,
and the Duke of Wellington, who lived in Hampshire’s Stratfield Saye. Some of
England’s greatest literary figures are also associated with the area – you can visit the
former residences of Charles Dickens in Portsmouth; Jane Austen, who spent much of
her life in Hampshire; T.E. Lawrence, who lived in Dorset; and Thomas Hardy, who is
forever associated with his beloved “Wessex”.
Where to go
If you want a seaside holiday, there are plenty of options: the Isle of Wight has a variety of
beaches – from pebble and shingle to fine sand – and wherever you go on the island,
you’re never far from the sea. For all the facilities of a large resort, look no further than
Bournemouth or Weymouth, both with fantastic, sandy town beaches. Smaller in scale,
Swanage, West Bay and Lyme Regis exude plenty of traditional, bucket-and-spade
appeal, while the beaches around Shell Bay are hard to beat, backed by miles of sand
dunes and heathland. For a quieter swimming spot, try the wonderful pebble beach at
Durdle Door, the bay at Chapman’s Pool (accessible only by boat or on foot) or the
THE BEST PUBS
From beachside inns to thatched rural gastropubs, the region boasts plenty of alluring spots
for a swift pint. Here are our favourites.
The Mayfly Near Stockbridge (Hampshire). atmosphere and huge portions of delicious
Delicious food, fine beers and an idyllic food. See p.268
garden next to the clear-flowing River Test. The Square and Compass Worth
See p.202 Matravers (Dorset). Simply the best pub
The Red Shoot (New Forest). Tasty local in Dorset, straight out of a Hardy novel.
produce, its own microbrewery and fine See p.79
walks nearby. See p.179 The Dancing Man Brewery Southampton
Ship Inn (New Forest). A bustling gastropub (Hampshire). Enjoy fine home-brewed
overlooking Lymington harbour. See p.188 beers and good food at this atmospheric
Spyglass Inn Ventnor (Isle of Wight). Great microbrewery in Southampton’s medieval
location right on the seafront, a lively Wool House. See p.227
OPPOSITE FROM TOP GOLD HILL, SHAFTESBURY; PORTSMOUTH WITH SPINNAKER TOWER
001_017_Dorset_IW_3_Intro.indd 6 30/08/16 12:05 pm
001_017_Dorset_IW_3_Intro.indd 7 30/08/16 12:05 pm
8 INTRODUCTION
sand-and-shingle beaches of Highcliffe and Hengistbury Head, backed by sandstone
cliffs. The coasts are also rich in wildlife, with a sea-horse reserve in Studland, puffins
nesting on the cliffs at Durlston, Britain’s largest colony of mute swans at Abbotsbury,
and the rare red squirrel thriving on the Isle of Wight and Brownsea Island.
History fans will find much to explore, too: this area was historic Wessex, where England’s
first kings – including, perhaps, King Arthur – made their home. Formerly England’s capital,
Winchester offers a fascinating insight into the country’s past, while the region’s mighty
castles include Corfe Castle, Sherborne and Carisbrooke on the Isle of Wight. There’s also
Maiden Castle near Dorchester, a superb example of an Iron Age defensive settlement, while
Cerne Abbas’s chalk giant dates back at least to Roman times. Maritime history is richly
evident in Southampton and Portsmouth, home to the Mary Rose and Nelson’s HMS Victory.
Contemporary seafarers are spoilt for choice, too, with major sailing centres at
Lymington, Cowes, Poole Harbour and Portland, site of the 2012 Olympic sailing
events. Other watersports, such as windsurfing, kayaking and kitesurfing, are all on offer
along the coast. For the less sporty, there are some fantastic museums and family
attractions, including the National Motor Museum at Beaulieu, Bovington Tank Museum,
and the fairground rides at Blackgang Chine on the Isle of Wight.
For many people, however, it is the rural beauty and timeless quality of the countryside,
in particular its two national parks – the New Forest and the South Downs – that make
these regions so special. Hikers should look no further than the South West Coast Path,
Britain’s longest footpath, which starts at Poole and follows the Dorset coast to Lyme
Regis. And there are fantastic walks inland, including superb river rambles along the
Itchen, upriver from Buckler’s Hard, north along the Test, and throughout the New Forest
and the Isle of Wight, both crisscrossed with cycleways and footpaths.
When to go
The region has a relatively mild climate, with a south-facing, sheltered coastline and few
extremes of weather. The summer is the obvious time to head for the coastal resorts,
though you’ll be hard pushed to find space to lay your towel on a hot day during the school
holidays. This is peak time on the roads and for accommodation prices too: other busy
times are Easter, Christmas, New Year and the school half-terms, and it is also sensible to
avoid travelling on Friday evenings, when people flock down for the weekend. The very
best times to visit are May and June, when the countryside is at its most lush, the evenings
long and the weather often superb. Spring is perfect for exploring the New Forest, when its
woodlands and heaths are peppered with ponies and their foals, while autumn sees an
explosion of spectacular colours, as well as pigs roaming wild in search of acorns.
Winter, too, has its attractions: it’s hard to beat holing up in a country pub in front of a log
fire after a long walk on a crisp, sunny winter’s day. The flipside is that when it rains, many of
the region’s best footpaths become virtually impassable or treacherously slippery. Some of the
seaside resorts and more remote attractions and accommodation options may also close in
low season. This, however, gives a certain desolate appeal to some of the coastal towns such as
Lyme Regis and Swanage, with the additional advantage of quieter roads and easier parking.
001_017_Dorset_IW_3_Intro.indd 8 30/08/16 12:05 pm