Table Of Content

JEFI?=>JIš9>;7F;7JIš8;IJD?=>JB?<; Ç@WcfWYa[Zm_j^[ii[dj_Wb _d\ehcWj_ed\ehj^[XkZ][j# YediY_ekijhWl[bb[h$È The Daily Express Ç8kZ][j#jhWl[bijWbmWhj$È Time Magazine <KBB#9EBEKH^cigdYjXidgn hZXi^dc!^cXajY^c\]^\]a^\]ih [dgZkZgngZ\^dc# ?D#:;FJ>XdkZgV\Zd[Vaa i]Zbjhi"hZZh^\]ih^c hZkZcXdjcig^Zh![gdbi]Z 7Vn>haVcYhd[=dcYjgVhid 8dhiVG^XVÉhXadjY[dgZhih# 9ECFH;>;DI?L;a^hi^c\hd[ i]ZWZhieaVXZhidhiVn!ZVi VcYeVgin# KI;<KBHeVc^h]ldgYhVcY e]gVhZh# J>;HEK=>=K?:;je :;J7?B;:bVeh[dgdkZg &%%adXVi^dch# C7A;J>;CEIJE<OEKHJ?C;ED;7HJ> 9[djhWb 7c[h_YW 7J9<:IH:G>:H>C8AJ9:H/ lll#gdj\]\j^YZh#Xdb ED78K:=;J EjWa^h]ZYWnGdj\]<j^YZh 9^hig^WjiZYWnI]ZEZc\j^c<gdje Budget_CentralAmerica_pub_cover.1 1 20/10/08 12:43:20 HEK=>=K?:;I 9[djhWb7c[h_YW ED78K:=;J 9;DJH7B7C;H?97 B:M>8D / <7jZaV^ioZZbVaV Hek]^=k_Z[ilVh[djcYZY^c&.-'VcY]Vhd[ÒXZh^cAdcYdc! 7:ABDE6C =:adHcVYajkgVVYhdg CZlNdg`VcY9Za]^#>iejWa^h]ZhbdgZi]Vc(*%gZ\jaVgan C^XVgV\jV jeYViZYigVkZa\j^YZh!gZ[ZgZcXZWdd`h!e]gVhZWdd`hVcY 8dhiVG^XV EVcVbV bVeh!VcY]VhVa^hid[bdgZi]Vc&*%Gdj\]<j^YZbjh^X 89hgZaZVhZYWnLdgaYBjh^XCZildg`# <J6I:B6A6 8>IN I:<J8><6AE6 “I usually take Rough Guides. In my H6CH6AK69DG 86G>77:6CH:6 opinion they are the best.” 8_bb8hoied B6C6<J6 “Veritable bibles of what’s hot and what’s not.” Sunday Times"@e^Wdd[iXkh] H6C?DHw E68>;>8D8:6C “Reliable and intelligently written.” E6C6B68>IN New York Times LN 8DADB7>6 7Xekjj^_iXeea Hek]^=k_Z[iVgZYZh^\cZYidWZ\ddYidgZVYVcYZVhnidjhZ# I]ZWdd`^hY^k^YZY^cidi]Z[daadl^c\hZXi^dch!VcYndjh]djaY WZVWaZidÒcYl]ViZkZgndjcZZY^cdcZd[i]Zb# 7kj^ehF_Yai I]ZYebekhi[Yj_ed^hYZh^\cZYid\^kZndjV[ZZa[dg8ZcigVa6bZg^XV! I]gdj\]djii]^hWdd`!lZÉkZjhZYi]ZGdj\] hj\\Zhi^c\l]Zcid\dVcYl]Vicdiidb^hh!VcY^cXajYZhV[jaaa^hid[ <j^YZh^Xdcid]^\]a^\]iZhiVWa^h]bZcihdjg Yedj[dji#I]ZcXdbZh_j_d[hWh_[iid]ZaeeaVcndjggdjiZ[daadlZYWn Vji]dgheVgi^XjaVgangZXdbbZcYÄVeZg[ZXianh^iZY]diZa! XWi_Yi![dgegZ"YZeVgijgZ^c[dgbVi^dcVcYdi]ZgegVXi^XVa^i^Zh# VcVibdhe]Zg^XXV[‚!VheZX^VagZhiVjgVci#:VX]]VhWZZc hZciVÆGZXdbbZcYZYWnGdj\]<j^YZhÇY^heaVnhi^X`Zg# I]Z]k_Z[X]VeiZghXdkZg8ZcigVa6bZg^XVÉhXdjcig^Zh^cYZei]!ZVX] EaZVhZhZcYjhndjgdlccdb^cVi^dch!l]^X]djgVji]dgh hiVgi^c\l^i]V]^\]a^\]ihbVeVcYVhZXi^dcdcgdj\]Xdhih#I]Zc[daadlh l^aaWZ]VeenidX]ZX`dji[dg[jijgZZY^i^dch# VWVh^XhhZXi^dc[dgZVX]Xdjcignl^i]Vaai]ZadlYdlcdcVXXdbbdYVi^dc! k^hVh!igVchedgi![ddYVcYYg^c`!jhZ[jae]gVhZhVcYbdgZ# I]ZWdd`XdcXajYZhl^i]Vaai]ZicWbbfh_dj!^cXajY^c\YZiV^ahd[]dl 7YYecceZWj_edfh_Y[YeZ[i idhZcY^cjeYViZhVcYXdggZXi^dch!VcYVXdbegZ]Zch^kZ_dZ[n# I]gdj\]djii]^h\j^YZ!WYYecceZWj_ed^hXdYZYdcV hXVaZd[1id9!djia^cZYWZadl#;dgeaVXZhl^i]Ydgbh J^_iÓhij[Z_j_edfkXb_i^[Z<[XhkWho(&&/$ i]ZXdYZ^cY^XViZhi]ZXdhid[VWZY![dg]diZahVcY \jZhi]djhZhi]ZX]ZVeZhieg^kViZh^c\aZdgYdjWaZgddb VcY[dgXVbeh^iZhi]ZXdhid[Vc^\]iÉhhiVneZgeZghdc#6aa XdYZhgZegZhZci]^\]"hZVhdceg^XZh# 1jeidJH* 4JH&+Ä'* 7JH)+Ä+% 2JH+Ä&% 5JH'+Ä(* 8JH+&Ä-% 3JH&&Ä&* 6JH(+Ä)* 9dkZg-& Jef\hedjYel[h_cW][0HVciV8gjoYZaFj^X]Z!<jViZbVaVHiZ[Vcd HXViV$I^eh>bV\Zh 8ejjec\hedjYel[h_cW][0EjZgidA^b‹c!XVgc^kVa!8dhiVG^XVE^Zigd The publishers and authors have done their best to ensure the accuracy and currency of all the information in The Rough Guide to Central America on HXdooVg^$I^eh>bV\Zh a Budget, however, they can accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or 8WYaYel[h_cW][0?V\jVg^ci]Z8dX`hXdbW7Vh^c9Vc^iV inconvenience sustained by any traveler as a result of information or advice 9Za^bdci$6aVbn contained in the guide. H_]^j0@ZZa"W^aaZYIdjXVc!<jViZbVaVI^b9gVeZg$Gdj\]<j^YZh CAOB inside cover.indd 1 10/20/08 7:06:04 PM The Rough Guide to Central America on A Budget this edition written and researched by Jamey Bergman, Flo Chick, Sarah Cummins, Kiki Deere, Amber Dobrzensky, Donald Eastwood, Ingrid Gustafson, Neil McQuillan, Charlotte Melville, Alex Trillo LONDON • DELHI www.roughguides.com CAM00_colour_3-16.indd 1 17/10/08 16:45:25 CAM00_colour_3-16.indd 2 17/10/08 16:45:33 Contents Colour section 1 Guide 55 Introduction ............................... 6 Belize ....................................... 55 When to go ................................ 8 Guatemala ............................. 117 Ideas ........................................ 10 El Salvador............................. 243 Honduras ............................... 323 Itineraries 17 Nicaragua .............................. 405 Costa Rica ............................. 483 Panama.................................. 585 Basics 25 language 673 Getting there ............................ 27 Getting around ......................... 32 English ................................... 674 Accommodation....................... 35 Spanish .................................. 674 Culture and etiquette ............... 37 Words and phrases ................ 676 Work and study ........................ 39 Menu reader .......................... 680 Health ...................................... 41 Glossary................................. 683 Travel essentials ...................... 45 Travel store 687 Small print & Index 691 ff VAllE CENTrAl, CoSTA rICA f ChIChICASTENANGo MArKET, GuATEMAlA CAM00_colour_3-16.indd 3 17/10/08 16:45:48 8]Zijb8]VZa ijbVa 7VcXd78V]c^XcdX]8d]g^gcdX]dggd .FUSFT .FUSFT -%8-)#%/8)#/ 8dgdoV8adgdoVa / / DgVc\ZDgLVVca\`ZLVa` 6bWZg6\bg^WhZ8gV\ngZ^h8VnZ 8VnZ88VVjnaZ`Z8gVja`Zg "%,"):%%,):% 7Za^oZ78Z^ian^oZ8^in 5JLBM 5JLBM 7:ABD7E:6ACBDE6C AV\dEAZVi‚\cd>EioZ{i‚c>io{ A^\]i]dAj^\h]ZiG]dZjZh[ ZGZZ[ HVc HVc >\cVX^d>\cVX^d 9Vc\g^9\Vc\g^\V ;adgZh;adgZh h h <da[dY<Zda[dYZ =dcYjg=VdhcYjgVh EjciVE<jdcgYiV{<dgY{ EjZgidEjZgid EjZgidEjZ8gdigdi‚h8dgi‚h AV AVIgj_^aadIgj_^aad 7Vgg^d7hVgg^dh 8Z^WV 8Z^WV '5!'45%!-4!%,-!!,! 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CAM00_colour_3-16.indd 4 17/10/08 16:45:52 G † Gd † d 6 o6 ja o ja c c † † d d G G a a V V 7 7 c c Y Z Y Z h h j j V V V a V Z a Z e ^ e ^ ] ] X V i X c V c i : c g g : c Y 6 Y ^d 6 Y d ^ Y H V H V c? c? d \ d \ X h X d h d ^ V X b ^ V X j b h J j h G† d J G† d d † d G † G 7 7 > > n n V V d d † † G G < < d † d G † G c c V V a a h h X X d d 8 8 g g Y Y d d 8]Zijb8]VZa ijbVa 7VcXd78V]c^XcdX]8d]g^gcdX]dggd .FUSFT .FUSFT -%8-)#%/8)#/ 8dgdoV8adgdoVa / / DgVc\ZDgLVVca\`ZLVa` 6bWZg6\bg^WhZ8gV\ngZ^h8VnZ 8VnZ88VVjnaZ`Z8gVja`Zg "%,"):%%,):% 7Za^oZ78Z^ian^oZ8^in 5JLBM 5JLBM 7:ABD7E:6ACBDE6C AV\dEAZVi‚\cd>EioZ{i‚c>io{ A^\]i]dAj^\h]ZiG]dZjZh[ ZGZZ[ HVc HVc >\cVX^d>\cVX^d 9Vc\g^9\Vc\g^\V ;adgZh;adgZh <da[dY<Zda[dYZ h h =dcYjg=VdhcYjgVh EjciVE<jdcgYiV{<dgY{ EjZgidEjZgid EjZgidEjZ8gdigdi‚h8dgi‚h AV AVIgj_^aadIgj_^aad 7Vgg^d7hVgg^dh 8Z^WV 8Z^WV '5!'45%!-4!%,-!!,! 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C^XdnVCE^ZXcd^ncVhEjaZVc^chjaV EjZgidEAj^Zbgi‹dcA^b‹c EjciVgEZjccVihVgZcVh V V H6C?DHH6wC?DHw H H E 6E86> 8; >> ;8 > 8D 8D:86:C6 C 7dXVhY7ZdaXIVdhgYdZaIdgd 8da‹c 8da‹c 6gX]^eZ6agVX\]d^eZaV\d EVcVbEVV8cVVcbVVa 8VcVa E6C6BE6C6B6 8>IN 8>IN <da[^id<da[^id 9Vk^Y 9Vk^Y AVEVabAVVEVabV 0!.0!!-.!-! HVci^V\HdVci^V\d <da[d<YdaZ[dYZ EVcVEbV{cVb{ LNLN #/,#//-,"/)-!")! CAM00_colour_3-16.indd 5 17/10/08 16:45:55 o ja o ja 6 6 d d † † G G c c † dG † dG a V a V 7 7 c c Y Z Y Z h h V V j j Va Z e V Za ^] e ^ X ] g X g 6 V V i Y ^dY 6 i c : c Y ^dY : c c H V c? V c ? H \d \d ^ d X ^ V h d X X Vb h X b j G† d j G† d h h J J d d † † G G 7 7 > > n V n V d d † † G G < < d † G d † G c c V V a ah h X X d d 8 8 g g Y Y d d Introduction to Central America Serving as both a link and a barrier between oceans and continents, Central America’s small area belies an astounding diversity of culture, wildlife, history and terrain. travellers here have access to a perfectly-sized package tour that’s unique for every visitor. one day’s itinerary could have you on a water- taxi ride to a surf break, an afternoon trek through pristine jungle and a night out clubbing. the next day, you could be whitewater rafting on world-class rapids, taking a spa in geothermal pools, and then cosying up for a pleasantly cool dinner under the highland stars. entral America falls from Mexi- co’s southern edges in a tapering southeasterly slide from Belize Cand Guatemala to Panama. From its widest point on the Honduran/Nicara- guan border, the isthmus is squeezed until a mere 40 miles of land keeps the Atlan- tic and Pacifc Oceans at bay. Crammed onto the land bridge, coral-fringed beaches give way to jungle that, in turn, yields to shrouded volcanic highlands. Modern cities jut skyward metres from where the cobbled streets of Maya ruins still linger. Wealth and poverty, ancient religion and a colonial legacy mingle together to make a fascinating mix for veteran and uninitiated travellers alike. With its proximity to North America, there is no question that a recipro- cal exchange of people and ideas has had an impact on both sides of the Rio Grande. Much of the isthmus has certainly adopted the consumption habits of its North American neighbours: shopping malls, fast-food out- lets and multiplex cinemas are de rigeur for many citizens here. However, the majority of this commercialization is restricted to the region’s main metropolitan centres, and it is easy to fnd authenticity in culture, custom or cuisine no matter where you go. CAM00_colour_3-16.indd 6 17/10/08 16:46:02 Chicken Buses One authentic piece of Latin American culture that you’ll soon become familiar with is the “Chicken Bus”. Called “camionetas”, “collectivos” or simply “buses” (pronounced “boo-ses”) in Spanish, these contraptions are colourfully repainted and repurposed US school buses. In pastel or primary colours, with decorations both religous and profane dangling and jangling from every corner and destinations hand-lettered on the front windscreen, travelling by chicken bus is an economical and unforgettable experience. Passengers, goods and livestock jostle along bumpy roads, embarking and departing with great frequency in a boistrous and generally well-timed dance of old tires, children, overstuffed luggage and boxes of peeping chicks (the buses namesake). Though Guatemala is particularly known for its chicken buses, versions of this mode of transportation can be found virtually anywhere in Latin America. Te North American economy has also had an efect on overall regional prices, and depending on which country you’re travelling in, the daily cost of living can be higher than you might expect. Despite this, Central America is a premiere destination for budget travel: a growing tourist infrastructure combined with a spectacular diversity of natural and cul- tural landscapes make it a budget traveller’s dream. Tis guide is packed with information tailored to inspire travellers on a shoestring. From our budget-friendly Author’s Picks to suggestions for where to splurge and treat yourself, we will help you to fnd the very best Central America has to ofer. CAM00_colour_3-16.indd 7 17/10/08 16:46:12 introduction Whether your tastes are expensive or thrify, our itineraries section (see p.17) gives a selection of the greatest journeys across the region. In Belize, you can dive the longest barrier reef in the Americas or spend a few nights on the lookout for big cats in the world’s only Jaguar reserve. Discover Maya ruins struggling to free themselves from the ever encroaching bonds of the jungle in Belize, Guatemala, El Salvador and Honduras. For a glimpse of the area’s colonial his- tory and architecture, Antigua in Guatemala and Granada in Nica- ragua are top destinations. Te Ecotourism cloudforests of Honduras and Ecotourism is widespread in all Costa Rica, crater lakes in Guate- its forms in Central America. But, mala, and geothermal hot springs whether you’re zip-lining down a in Panama are sights unique jungled hillside in the cloudforest, birdwatching in a national park, to the highlands. On the coast, or volunteering to protect an Costa Rica and Panama are both endangered species of sea turtle, widely known as top international try to be sure that what you’re surfng scenes, but inland, both doing truly is environmentally also ofer world-class whitewater ethical. While imitators rafing experiences. misrepresenting themselves as environmentally friendly operators are common, Central America is widely recognized to be at the cuting edge of ecotourism. When to go Tourists are encouraged to travel responsibly with the intent of rom its position along a experiencing nature while engaging major fault line, a back- in environmental conservation and bone of volcanic terrain seeking to improve the well-being of the local community. Belize Frises and runs the length and Costa Rica in particular have of the region’s seven countries. paved the way with conservation Tick jungles adress coral reefs strategies that support sustainable across golden slivers of shore- tourism. line. Te sub-tropical climate of Central America overfows with CAM00_colour_3-16.indd 8 17/10/08 16:46:19 introduction

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JEFI?=>JIš9>;7F;7JIš8;IJD?=>JB?<; Ç@WcfWYa[Zm_j^[ii[dj_Wb _d\ehcWj_ed\ehj^[XkZ][j# YediY_ekijhWl[bb[h$È The Daily Express Ç8kZ][j#jhWl[bijWbmWhj$È Time Magazine <KBB#9EBEKH^cigdYjXidgn hZXi^dc!^cXajY^c\]^\]a^\]ih [dgZkZgngZ\^dc# ?D#:;FJ>XdkZgV\Zd[Vaa i]Zbjhi"hZZh^\]ih^c hZkZcXdjcig^Zh![gdbi]Z 7Vn>haVcYhd[=dcYjgVhid 8dhiVG^XVÉhXadjY[dgZhih# 9ECFH;>;DI?L;a^hi^c\hd[ i]ZWZhieaVXZhidhiVn!ZVi VcYeVgin# KI;<KBHeVc^h]ldgYhVcY e]gVhZh# J>;HEK=>=K?:;je :;J7?B;:bVeh[dgdkZg &%%adXVi^dch# C7A;J>;CEIJE<OEKHJ?C;ED;7HJ> 9[djhWb 7c[h_YW 7J9<:IH:G>:H>C8AJ9:H/ lll#gdj\]\j^YZh#Xdb ED78K:=;J EjWa^h]ZYWnGdj\]<j^YZh 9^hig^WjiZYWnI]ZEZc\j^c<gdje Budget_CentralAmerica_pub_cover.1 1 20/10/08 12:43:20 HEK=>=K?:;I 9[djhWb7c[h_YW ED78K:=;J 9;DJH7B7C;H?97 B:M>8D / <7jZaV^ioZZbVaV Hek]^=k_Z[ilVh[djcYZY^c&.-'VcY]Vhd[ÒXZh^cAdcYdc! 7:ABDE6C =:adHcVYajkgVVYhdg CZlNdg`VcY9Za]^#>iejWa^h]ZhbdgZi]Vc(*%gZ\jaVgan C^XVgV\jV jeYViZYigVkZa\j^YZh!gZ[ZgZcXZWdd`h!e]gVhZWdd`hVcY 8dhiVG^XV EVcVbV bVeh!VcY]VhVa^hid[bdgZi]Vc&*%Gdj\]<j^YZbjh^X 89hgZaZVhZYWnLdgaYBjh^XCZildg`# <J6I:B6A6 8>IN I:<J8><6AE6 “I usually take Rough Guides. In my H6CH6AK69DG 86G>77:6CH:6 opinion they are the best.” 8_bb8hoied B6C6<J6 “Veritable bibles of what’s hot and what’s not.” Sunday Times"@e^Wdd[iXkh] H6C?DHw E68>;>8D8:6C “Reliable and intelligently written.” E6C6B68>IN New York Times LN 8DADB7>6 7Xekjj^_iXeea Hek]^=k_Z[iVgZYZh^\cZYidWZ\ddYidgZVYVcYZVhnidjhZ# I]ZWdd`^hY^k^YZY^cidi]Z[daadl^c\hZXi^dch!VcYndjh]djaY WZVWaZidÒcYl]ViZkZgndjcZZY^cdcZd[i]Zb# 7kj^ehF_Yai I]ZYebekhi[Yj_ed^hYZh^\cZYid\^kZndjV[ZZa[dg8ZcigVa6bZg^XV! I]gdj\]djii]^hWdd`!lZÉkZjhZYi]ZGdj\] hj\\Zhi^c\l]Zcid\dVcYl]Vicdiidb^hh!VcY^cXajYZhV[jaaa^hid[ <j^YZh^Xdcid]^\]a^\]iZhiVWa^h]bZcihdjg Yedj[dji#I]ZcXdbZh_j_d[hWh_[iid]ZaeeaVcndjggdjiZ[daadlZYWn Vji]dgheVgi^XjaVgangZXdbbZcYÄVeZg[ZXianh^iZY]diZa! XWi_Yi![dgegZ"YZeVgijgZ^c[dgbVi^dcVcYdi]ZgegVXi^XVa^i^Zh# VcVibdhe]Zg^XXV[‚!VheZX^VagZhiVjgVci#:VX]]VhWZZc hZciVÆGZXdbbZcYZYWnGdj\]<j^YZhÇY^heaVnhi^X`Zg# I]Z]k_Z[X]VeiZghXdkZg8ZcigVa6bZg^XVÉhXdjcig^Zh^cYZei]!ZVX] EaZVhZhZcYjhndjgdlccdb^cVi^dch!l]^X]djgVji]dgh hiVgi^c\l^i]V]^\]a^\]ihbVeVcYVhZXi^dcdcgdj\]Xdhih#I]Zc[daadlh l^aaWZ]VeenidX]ZX`dji[dg[jijgZZY^i^dch# VWVh^XhhZXi^dc[dgZVX]Xdjcignl^i]Vaai]ZadlYdlcdcVXXdbbdYVi^dc! k^hVh!igVchedgi![ddYVcYYg^c`!jhZ[jae]gVhZhVcYbdgZ# I]ZWdd`XdcXajYZhl^i]Vaai]ZicWbbfh_dj!^cXajY^c\YZiV^ahd[]dl 7YYecceZWj_edfh_Y[YeZ[i idhZcY^cjeYViZhVcYXdggZXi^dch!VcYVXdbegZ]Zch^kZ_dZ[n# I]gdj\]djii]^h\j^YZ!WYYecceZWj_ed^hXdYZYdcV hXVaZd[1id9!djia^cZYWZadl#;dgeaVXZhl^i]Ydgbh J^_iÓhij[Z_j_edfkXb_i^[Z<[XhkWho(&&/$ i]ZXdYZ^cY^XViZhi]ZXdhid[VWZY![dg]diZahVcY \jZhi]djhZhi]ZX]ZVeZhieg^kViZh^c\aZdgYdjWaZgddb VcY[dgXVbeh^iZhi]ZXdhid[Vc^\]iÉhhiVneZgeZghdc#6aa XdYZhgZegZhZci]^\]"hZVhdceg^XZh# 1jeidJH* 4JH&+Ä'* 7JH)+Ä+% 2JH+Ä&% 5JH'+Ä(* 8JH+&Ä-% 3JH&&Ä&* 6JH(+Ä)* 9dkZg-& Jef\hedjYel[h_cW][0HVciV8gjoYZaFj^X]Z!<jViZbVaVHiZ[Vcd HXViV$I^eh>bV\Zh 8ejjec\hedjYel[h_cW][0EjZgidA^b‹c!XVgc^kVa!8dhiVG^XVE^Zigd The publishers and authors have done their best to ensure the accuracy and currency of all the information in The Rough Guide to Central America on HXdooVg^$I^eh>bV\Zh a Budget, however, they can accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or 8WYaYel[h_cW][0?V\jVg^ci]Z8dX`hXdbW7Vh^c9Vc^iV inconvenience sustained by any traveler as a result of information or advice 9Za^bdci$6aVbn contained in the guide. H_]^j0@ZZa"W^aaZYIdjXVc!<jViZbVaVI^b9gVeZg$Gdj\]<j^YZh CAOB inside cover.indd 1 10/20/08 7:06:04 PM The Rough Guide to Central America on A Budget this edition written and researched by Jamey Bergman, Flo Chick, Sarah Cummins, Kiki Deere, Amber Dobrzensky, Donald Eastwood, Ingrid Gustafson, Neil McQuillan, Charlotte Melville, Alex Trillo LONDON • DELHI www.roughguides.com CAM00_colour_3-16.indd 1 17/10/08 16:45:25 CAM00_colour_3-16.indd 2 17/10/08 16:45:33 Contents Colour section 1 Guide 55 Introduction ............................... 6 Belize ....................................... 55 When to go ................................ 8 Guatemala ............................. 117 Ideas ........................................ 10 El Salvador............................. 243 Honduras ............................... 323 Itineraries 17 Nicaragua .............................. 405 Costa Rica ............................. 483 Panama.................................. 585 Basics 25 language 673 Getting there ............................ 27 Getting around ......................... 32 English ................................... 674 Accommodation....................... 35 Spanish .................................. 674 Culture and etiquette ............... 37 Words and phrases ................ 676 Work and study ........................ 39 Menu reader .......................... 680 Health ...................................... 41 Glossary................................. 683 Travel essentials ...................... 45 Travel store 687 Small print & Index 691 ff VAllE CENTrAl, CoSTA rICA f ChIChICASTENANGo MArKET, GuATEMAlA CAM00_colour_3-16.indd 3 17/10/08 16:45:48 8]Zijb8]VZa ijbVa 7VcXd78V]c^XcdX]8d]g^gcdX]dggd .FUSFT .FUSFT -%8-)#%/8)#/ 8dgdoV8adgdoVa / / DgVc\ZDgLVVca\`ZLVa` 6bWZg6\bg^WhZ8gV\ngZ^h8VnZ 8VnZ88VVjnaZ`Z8gVja`Zg "%,"):%%,):% 7Za^oZ78Z^ian^oZ8^in 5JLBM 5JLBM 7:ABD7E:6ACBDE6C AV\dEAZVi‚\cd>EioZ{i‚c>io{ A^\]i]dAj^\h]ZiG]dZjZh[ ZGZZ[ HVc HVc >\cVX^d>\cVX^d 9Vc\g^9\Vc\g^\V ;adgZh;adgZh h h <da[dY<Zda[dYZ =dcYjg=VdhcYjgVh EjciVE<jdcgYiV{<dgY{ EjZgidEjZgid EjZgidEjZ8gdigdi‚h8dgi‚h AV AVIgj_^aadIgj_^aad 7Vgg^d7hVgg^dh 8Z^WV 8Z^WV '5!'45%!-4!%,-!!,! 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C^XdnVCE^ZXcd^ncVhEjaZVc^chjaV EjZgidEAj^Zbgi‹dcA^b‹c EjciVgEZjccVihVgZcVh H6C?DHH6wC?DHw H H E 6E86> 8; >> ;8 > 8D 8D:86:C6 C 7dXVhY7ZdaXIVdhgYdZaIdgd 8da‹c 8da‹c 6gX]^eZ6agVX\]d^eZaV\d EVcVbEVV8cVVcbVVa 8VcVa E6C6BE6C6B6 8>IN 8>IN <da[^id<da[^id 9Vk^Y 9Vk^Y AVEVabAVVEVabV 0!.0!!-.!-! HVci^V\HdVci^V\d <da[d<YdaZ[dYZ EVcVEbV{cVb{ LNLN #/,#//-,"/)-!")! CAM00_colour_3-16.indd 4 17/10/08 16:45:52 G † Gd † d 6 o6 ja o ja c c † † d d G G a a V V 7 7 c c Y Z Y Z h h j j V V V a V Z a Z e ^ e ^ ] ] X V i X c V c i : c g g : c Y 6 Y ^d 6 Y d ^ Y H V H V c? c? d \ d \ X h X d h d ^ V X b ^ V X j b h J j h G† d J G† d d † d G † G 7 7 > > n n V V d d † † G G < < d † d G † G c c V V a a h h X X d d 8 8 g g Y Y d d 8]Zijb8]VZa ijbVa 7VcXd78V]c^XcdX]8d]g^gcdX]dggd .FUSFT .FUSFT -%8-)#%/8)#/ 8dgdoV8adgdoVa / / DgVc\ZDgLVVca\`ZLVa` 6bWZg6\bg^WhZ8gV\ngZ^h8VnZ 8VnZ88VVjnaZ`Z8gVja`Zg "%,"):%%,):% 7Za^oZ78Z^ian^oZ8^in 5JLBM 5JLBM 7:ABD7E:6ACBDE6C AV\dEAZVi‚\cd>EioZ{i‚c>io{ A^\]i]dAj^\h]ZiG]dZjZh[ ZGZZ[ HVc HVc >\cVX^d>\cVX^d 9Vc\g^9\Vc\g^\V ;adgZh;adgZh <da[dY<Zda[dYZ h h =dcYjg=VdhcYjgVh EjciVE<jdcgYiV{<dgY{ EjZgidEjZgid EjZgidEjZ8gdigdi‚h8dgi‚h AV AVIgj_^aadIgj_^aad 7Vgg^d7hVgg^dh 8Z^WV 8Z^WV '5!'45%!-4!%,-!!,! IZaV IZaV 8dW{c8dW{c HVcEZHYVgcdEHZjYaVgdHjaV (/.($/5.2$!532!3 IVeVX]IjVaeVVX]jaV $PQÈO $PQÈO EjZgidEAjZZbgied^gAVZbe^gV .PTRV.JUPJBTRVJUJB FjZioVFaijZZciVocVa\idZcVc\d <J6I:<BJ66AI6:B8>6IAN68>IN 8 68G6> G7 >77:76:C6 CH :H6: 6 6ci^\j6Vci^\jV 8dbVn8Vd\bjVVnV\jV AV\dYAZV\dYZ 6i^ia{c6i^ia{c HVciV6HVccViV6cV I:<J8I>:<<6JAE86><6AE6 EjZgidEHjVZcgi?ddHhV‚c?dh‚ EjZgidE8jVZWgZidoV8hVWZoVh H6CH6HA6KC6H96DAGK69DG HVcB^H\VjcZaB^\jZa %,3%!,36!,$6/!2$/2 .)#!.2)#!!'25!!'5! 8]daji8Z]XVdajiZXV <da[dY<Zd;a[ddcYhZX;VdchZXV :hiZa† :hiZa† BViV\VBaeVViV\VaeV V V 8]^cVc8Y]Z^\cVcYZ\V AZ‹c AZ‹c A^iiaZ8Ad^giicaZ>h8aVdcgYc>haVcY B6C6<BJ66C6<J6<gVcVY<VgVcVYV 7^\8dg7c^\>h8aVdcgYc>haVcY 7ajZ[^Z7aaYjhZ[^ZaYh AV\dYAZV\dYZ C^XVgV\Cj^XVVgV\jV HVc HVc 8Vgadh8Vgadh c c A^WZg^VA^WZg^V #/3#4/!34! 2)#!2)#! C^XdnVCE^ZXcd^ncVhEjaZVc^chjaV EjZgidEAj^Zbgi‹dcA^b‹c EjciVgEZjccVihVgZcVh V V H6C?DHH6wC?DHw H H E 6E86> 8; >> ;8 > 8D 8D:86:C6 C 7dXVhY7ZdaXIVdhgYdZaIdgd 8da‹c 8da‹c 6gX]^eZ6agVX\]d^eZaV\d EVcVbEVV8cVVcbVVa 8VcVa E6C6BE6C6B6 8>IN 8>IN <da[^id<da[^id 9Vk^Y 9Vk^Y AVEVabAVVEVabV 0!.0!!-.!-! HVci^V\HdVci^V\d <da[d<YdaZ[dYZ EVcVEbV{cVb{ LNLN #/,#//-,"/)-!")! CAM00_colour_3-16.indd 5 17/10/08 16:45:55 o ja o ja 6 6 d d † † G G c c † dG † dG a V a V 7 7 c c Y Z Y Z h h V V j j Va Z e V Za ^] e ^ X ] g X g 6 V V i Y ^dY 6 i c : c Y ^dY : c c H V c? V c ? H \d \d ^ d X ^ V h d X X Vb h X b j G† d j G† d h h J J d d † † G G 7 7 > > n V n V d d † † G G < < d † G d † G c c V V a ah h X X d d 8 8 g g Y Y d d Introduction to Central America Serving as both a link and a barrier between oceans and continents, Central America’s small area belies an astounding diversity of culture, wildlife, history and terrain. travellers here have access to a perfectly-sized package tour that’s unique for every visitor. one day’s itinerary could have you on a water- taxi ride to a surf break, an afternoon trek through pristine jungle and a night out clubbing. the next day, you could be whitewater rafting on world-class rapids, taking a spa in geothermal pools, and then cosying up for a pleasantly cool dinner under the highland stars. entral America falls from Mexi- co’s southern edges in a tapering southeasterly slide from Belize Cand Guatemala to Panama. From its widest point on the Honduran/Nicara- guan border, the isthmus is squeezed until a mere 40 miles of land keeps the Atlan- tic and Pacifc Oceans at bay. Crammed onto the land bridge, coral-fringed beaches give way to jungle that, in turn, yields to shrouded volcanic highlands. Modern cities jut skyward metres from where the cobbled streets of Maya ruins still linger. Wealth and poverty, ancient religion and a colonial legacy mingle together to make a fascinating mix for veteran and uninitiated travellers alike. With its proximity to North America, there is no question that a recipro- cal exchange of people and ideas has had an impact on both sides of the Rio Grande. Much of the isthmus has certainly adopted the consumption habits of its North American neighbours: shopping malls, fast-food out- lets and multiplex cinemas are de rigeur for many citizens here. However, the majority of this commercialization is restricted to the region’s main metropolitan centres, and it is easy to fnd authenticity in culture, custom or cuisine no matter where you go. CAM00_colour_3-16.indd 6 17/10/08 16:46:02 Chicken Buses One authentic piece of Latin American culture that you’ll soon become familiar with is the “Chicken Bus”. Called “camionetas”, “collectivos” or simply “buses” (pronounced “boo-ses”) in Spanish, these contraptions are colourfully repainted and repurposed US school buses. In pastel or primary colours, with decorations both religous and profane dangling and jangling from every corner and destinations hand-lettered on the front windscreen, travelling by chicken bus is an economical and unforgettable experience. Passengers, goods and livestock jostle along bumpy roads, embarking and departing with great frequency in a boistrous and generally well-timed dance of old tires, children, overstuffed luggage and boxes of peeping chicks (the buses namesake). Though Guatemala is particularly known for its chicken buses, versions of this mode of transportation can be found virtually anywhere in Latin America. Te North American economy has also had an efect on overall regional prices, and depending on which country you’re travelling in, the daily cost of living can be higher than you might expect. Despite this, Central America is a premiere destination for budget travel: a growing tourist infrastructure combined with a spectacular diversity of natural and cul- tural landscapes make it a budget traveller’s dream. Tis guide is packed with information tailored to inspire travellers on a shoestring. From our budget-friendly Author’s Picks to suggestions for where to splurge and treat yourself, we will help you to fnd the very best Central America has to ofer. CAM00_colour_3-16.indd 7 17/10/08 16:46:12 introduction Whether your tastes are expensive or thrify, our itineraries section (see p.17) gives a selection of the greatest journeys across the region. In Belize, you can dive the longest barrier reef in the Americas or spend a few nights on the lookout for big cats in the world’s only Jaguar reserve. Discover Maya ruins struggling to free themselves from the ever encroaching bonds of the jungle in Belize, Guatemala, El Salvador and Honduras. For a glimpse of the area’s colonial his- tory and architecture, Antigua in Guatemala and Granada in Nica- ragua are top destinations. Te Ecotourism cloudforests of Honduras and Ecotourism is widespread in all Costa Rica, crater lakes in Guate- its forms in Central America. But, mala, and geothermal hot springs whether you’re zip-lining down a in Panama are sights unique jungled hillside in the cloudforest, birdwatching in a national park, to the highlands. On the coast, or volunteering to protect an Costa Rica and Panama are both endangered species of sea turtle, widely known as top international try to be sure that what you’re surfng scenes, but inland, both doing truly is environmentally also ofer world-class whitewater ethical. While imitators rafing experiences. misrepresenting themselves as environmentally friendly operators are common, Central America is widely recognized to be at the cuting edge of ecotourism. When to go Tourists are encouraged to travel responsibly with the intent of rom its position along a experiencing nature while engaging major fault line, a back- in environmental conservation and bone of volcanic terrain seeking to improve the well-being of the local community. Belize Frises and runs the length and Costa Rica in particular have of the region’s seven countries. paved the way with conservation Tick jungles adress coral reefs strategies that support sustainable across golden slivers of shore- tourism. line. Te sub-tropical climate of Central America overfows with CAM00_colour_3-16.indd 8 17/10/08 16:46:19 introduction

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