The Rough Guide to Canada

914 Pages·2016·78.328 MB·English

by  Rough Guides

THE ROUGH GUIDE to
Canada
EXPERT ADVICE • FULL COVERAGE • EASY TO USE
The Rough Guide to Canada
C
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INSIDE THIS BOOK
START YOUR JOURNEY WITH ROUGH GUIDES
INTRODUCTION What to see, what not to miss, itineraries and more – everything
you need to get started
BASICS Pre-departure tips and practical information
THE GUIDE Comprehensive, in-depth guide to Canada, with area highlights and
full-colour maps throughout
CONTEXTS History and the natural environment plus recommended books and
a useful language section
We’ve fl agged up our favourite places – a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric café, a special TRUSTED TRAVEL GUIDES Since 1982, our books have helped over 35 million
restaurant – throughout the guide with the symbol travellers explore the world with accurate, honest and informed travel writing.
★
Canada chapters
ALASKA GREENLAND
(UNITED BEAUFORT (DENMARK)
STATES) SEA
Inuvik
Great LBaekaer Iqaluit LABRADOR POCKET ROUGH GUIDES “Best of” section, essential itineraries and a unique
Whitehorse 11 Arctic Circle SEA pull-out map featuring every sight and listing in the guide. Hip, handy and
N Yellowknife perfect for short trips and weekend breaks.
C OCEA GSLlraaekvaeet Hudson Bay 6
CIFI Churchill Goose Bay JoShtn's
PA 4 6
10 9 7 JaBmayes
Kamloops Moosonee Sydney
Vancouver Vancouver 8 Calgary 2 5
Island Regina Québec City Halifax
Winnipeg ThBunayder 3 Montréal
Ottawa
ATLANTIC
0 500 UNITED STATES 1 ToroNnitaogara Falls OCEAN
kilometres DIGITAL Choose from our easy-
1 Toronto 5 The Maritime Provinces 9 The BC Interior to-use ebooks and great-value
2 Ontario 6 Newfoundland and Labrador G Vancouver and Vancouver Island Snapshots to read on your e-reader,
3 Montréal and Southwest Québec 7 The Prairie Provinces H The North tablet or phone.
4 Québec City and Northern Québec 8 The Canadian Rockies
RROOUUGGHHGGUUIIDDEESS..CCOOMM Buy all our
llaatteesstt eebbooookkss aanndd ggeett iinnssppiirreedd
wwiitthh ttrraavveell ffeeaattuurreess,, qquuiizzzzeess
aanndd mmoorree!!
Make the Most of Your Time on Earth at roughguides.com
This ninth edition published June 2016
Canada_9_InerCover.indd 913 02/02/16 5:41 PM
The Rough guide To
Canada
This ninth edition updated by
Nikki Bayley, Steven horak, Stephen Keeling, Todd
obolsky, AnneLise Sorensen and Christian Williams
roughguides.com
001-025_Canada_9_Intro.indd 1 21/01/16 12:50 pm
001-025_Canada_9_Intro.indd 2 21/01/16 12:50 pm
introduction 3
Contents
introduction 4
Where to go 5 Things not to miss 14
Author picks 11 Itineraries 24
When to go 12
Basics 26
Getting there 27 Festivals 40
Getting around 30 Outdoor activities 41
Accommodation 34 Spectator sports 44
Food and drink 37 Travel essentials 46
The media 39
The guide 52
1 Toronto 52 7 The Prairie Provinces 458
2 Ontario 94 8 The Canadian Rockies 544
3 Montréal and Southwest Québec 184 9 The BC Interior 626
4 Québec City and Northern Québec 238 10 Vancouver and Vancouver Island 676
5 The Maritime Provinces 316 11 The North 780
6 Newfoundland and Labrador 402
contexts 860
History 861 Books 883
The natural environment 876 Language 887
small print & index 892
opposite PEGGY’S COVE, NOVA SCOTIA previous page RODEO COWBOYS, CALGARY STAMPEDE
001-025_Canada_9_Intro.indd 3 21/01/16 12:50 pm
4 introduction
Introduction to
canada
The home of ice hockey, the Niagara Falls, Mounties and maple syrup – not
to mention Ryan Gosling, Céline Dion, Drake and of course, Justin Bieber
– almost everyone on the planet knows something about Canada. Yet
first-time visitors should expect some surprises, beginning with the immense
size of the country, hard to appreciate until you get here. Canada’s cities
– enchanting Québec, trendy Vancouver, cosmopolitan Toronto and stylish
Montréal among them – are rich with historical and cultural treasures, but
above all Canada is a land of stunningly beautiful landscapes, from the
spectacular fjord-slashed coastlines of Newfoundland and the Maritimes, to
the Rockies’ glittering lakes and majestic peaks, and the rippling prairie
expanse with all the sky for a ceiling in between.
The second largest country in the world (after Russia), Canada covers an area the
United Kingdom could fit into 41 times over. Much of this expanse is sparsely
inhabited and the majority of the 35 million Canadians live in its southern half,
relatively close to the US border. Like its neighbour to the south, Canada is a
spectrum of cultures, a hotchpotch of immigrant groups who supplanted the
continent’s many Aboriginal peoples.
For the visitor, the mix that results from this mostly exemplary tolerance is an
exhilarating experience, offering such widely differing cultural, artistic and culinary
experiences as Vancouver’s huge Chinatown, the Inuit heartlands of the far north,
the austere religious enclaves of Manitoba or the Celtic-tinged warmth of the
Maritimes.
Yet – in stark contrast to their southern neighbours – some Canadians are often
troubled by the lack of a clear self-image, tending to emphasize the ways in which
their country is different from the US as a means of self-description. The question
“What is a Canadian?” continues to linger, with the on-again, off-again and always
Above VancouVer skyline Right Bison in Waterton lakes national Park, alBerta
001-025_Canada_9_Intro.indd 4 21/01/16 12:50 pm
introduction 5
acrimonious debate over Québec’s secession, but ultimately there can be no simple
characterization of a people whose country is not so much a single nation as it is a
committee on a continental scale. Pierre Berton, one of Canada’s finest writers,
wisely ducked the issue: “A Canadian”, he quipped, is “someone who knows how to
make love in a canoe.”
Despite this balancing act, one thing is clear: Canadians have an overwhelming
sense of pride in their history, their culture and the mesmerizing beauty of their land.
Indeed, Canada embraces all this – as well as its own clichés – with an energy that’s
irresistible.
Where to go
Ontario contains not only the country’s manufacturing heart and its largest city, Toronto,
but also Niagara Falls, the premier tourist sight. North of Toronto there’s Georgian Bay, a
beautiful waterscape of pine-studded islets set against crystal-blue waters. The bay is also
accessible from the Canadian capital, Ottawa – not as dynamic as Toronto, but still well
worth a stay for its galleries, museums and handful of superb restaurants.
Québec, set apart by the depth of its French culture, is anchored by its biggest city,
Montréal, which is for many people the most vibrant place in the country, a
fascinating mix of old-world style and commercial dynamism. The pace of life is more
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001-025_Canada_9_Intro.indd 7 21/01/16 12:50 pm
8 introduction
relaxed in the historic provincial capital Québec
Fact File
City, and more easygoing still in the villages dotted
• Canada has the 11th largest along the St Lawrence lowlands, where glittering
economy in the world; the
spires attest to the enduring influence of the
country’s richest person is
David Thomson (chairman Catholic Church.
of Thomson Reuters), worth Across the mouth of the St Lawrence River, the
around $30 billion.
pastoral Gaspé Peninsula – the easternmost part of
• It’s true: the Canadian
Québec – borders New Brunswick, a densely
province of Québec is by far
the largest producer of maple forested introduction to the three Maritime
syrup in the world (accounting Provinces, whose people have long been dependent
for three-quarters of global
on timber and the sea for their livelihood. Here, the
output).
• Established in 1964, Tim tapering Bay of Fundy boasts mind-blowing tides
Hortons is a Canadian icon, – rising and falling by 9m or more – and superb
with over 3000 doughnut and maritime landscapes, while the region’s tiny fishing
“double-double” (coffee with
villages are at their most beguiling near Halifax, the
two sugars and two creams)
stores nationwide. busy capital of Nova Scotia. Even prettier are the
• Unbeknown to most land and seascapes of Cape Breton Island, whose
Americans, Hollywood is rugged topography anticipates that of the island of
crammed with Canadians:
Newfoundland to the north. Newfoundland’s
Michael Cera, Ryan Gosling,
Evangeline Lily, Rachel isolation has spawned a distinctive culture that’s at
McAdams, Mike Myers, Ellen its most lively in St John’s, where the local folk
Page, Keanu Reeves, Ryan
music scene is Canada’s best. The island also boasts
Reynolds, Seth Rogen, Kiefer
Sutherland and William Shatner some of the Atlantic seaboard’s finest landscapes,
(Captain Kirk!) among them. particularly the flat-topped peaks and glacier-
• Since 1952, Saturday nights gouged lakes of Gros Morne National Park.
have been home to Hockey
Back on the mainland, the prairie provinces of
Night in Canada on CBC, when
thousands are glued to the TV Manitoba and Saskatchewan have a reputation for
to pay homage to the national dullness that’s unfair: even in the flat southern parts
sport.
there’s the diversion of Winnipeg, whose traces of its
early days make it a good place to break a trans-
Canadian journey. Numerous lakes and gigantic forests offer magnificent canoeing and
hiking, and in the far north, beside Hudson Bay, Churchill – remote, but accessible by
train – is famous for its polar bears, beluga whales and easy viewing of the Northern
Lights. Moving west, the wheatfields of Alberta ripple into ranching country on the
approach to the province’s two main cities, Edmonton and Calgary, grown fat on the
region’s oil and gas fields. Calgary is especially known for its cowboys, rodeos and
sumptuous steaks. Both cities provide useful springboards for trips into the Canadian
Rockies – most popularly to the resorts of Banff, Lake Louise and Jasper – and the most
spectacular scenery in the country, from mighty glaciers to the serene beauty of Moraine
Lake and the rugged wilderness of Icefields Parkway.
Further west, British Columbia is a land of snow-capped summits, rivers and forests,
pioneer villages, gold-rush ghost towns, and some of the greatest hiking, skiing, fishing
CloCkwise from top Dog-sleDDing in lake louise, the Rockies; cRoss-countRy skiing, sheRbRooke, Québec; cn toweR, toRonto
001-025_Canada_9_Intro.indd 8 21/01/16 12:50 pm