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The Rough Guide to Austria 4 (Rough Guide Travel Guides) PDF

592 Pages·2008·3.56 MB·English
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“An excellent guide to the country.” The Guardian, UK “Reliable and intelligently written.” The New York Times EXPLORE every corner of Austria, using the clearest maps of any guide. CHOOSE where to go and what to see, inspired by dozens of photos. READ expert background on everything from Schubert to après-ski. RELY on our selection of the best places to stay, eat and party, for every budget. THE ROUGH GUIDE to MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR TIME ON EARTH OTHER ROUGH GUIDES INCLUDE: www.roughguides.com Austria ISBN 978-1-85828-059-2 USA $24.99 Can $27.50 UK £14.99 9 7 8 1 8 5 8 2 8 0 5 9 2 Published by Rough Guides Distributed by The Penguin Group Austria_cover.indd 1 30/6/08 14:48:52 ROUGHGUIDES Austria GUIDEBOOK GUIDEBOOK PHRASEBOOK 7KIJH?7 7Xekjj^[Wkj^ehi / 8O:8=G:EJ7A>8 LN @edWj^Wd8ekiÓ[bZlVh[dgXZY^cid]^hÒghieV^gd[aZYZg]dhZcVii]ZV\Zd[c^cZ A^co K^ZccV VcY]VhWZZcVgZ\jaVg^c6jhig^VZkZgh^cXZ#>cWZilZZci^bZh]Z]VhWZZcV HiEŽaiZc [ZVijgZlg^iZgVcYgdX`Xg^i^XVcY]Vhldg`ZYdci]ZGdj\]<j^YZhid7ja\Vg^V <:GB6CN HVaoWjg\ VcYEdaVcY#=ZlgdiZi]ZGdj\]<j^YZhid8gdVi^V!VcYi]Z7Vai^XHiViZh# :^hZchiVYi 7gZ\Zco 7VY>hX]a >cchWgjX` <gVo HeX>kcf^h[oi_d^cZYGdj\]<j^YZh^c&.-.!]Vk^c\egZk^djhanldg`ZYVhV [V^aZYVXidgVcYiVm^Yg^kZg#=Z]VhigVkZaaZYZmiZch^kZan^cXZcigVaVcYZVhiZgc @aV\Zc[jgi >I6AN :jgdeZ!lg^i^c\\j^YZhidEgV\jZ!i]Z8oZX]VcYHadkV`GZejWa^XhVcY HADK:C>6 HiEZiZghWjg\!VhlZaaVhAdcYdcVcYHXdiaVcY# K^ZccV 8Vg^ci]^Vi]Z:VhiIngda AdlZg6jhig^V HVaoWjg\i]ZHVaoWjg\ZgAVcY JeeZg6jhig^V I]ZHVao`VbbZg\ji 7jg\ZcaVcY I]ZIngda Hing^V I]ZKdgVgaWZg\ D[l_bb[MWba[hXdcig^WjiZhidi]ZGdj\]<j^YZhid6jhig^V!;gVcXZ!<ZgbVcn! 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I]ZWdd`XdcXajYZhl^i]Vaai]ZicWbbfh_dj!^cXajY^c\YZiV^ahd[]dlid VcVibdhe]Zg^XXV[‚!VheZX^VagZhiVjgVci#:VX]]VhWZZc hZcY^cjeYViZhVcYXdggZXi^dch!VcYVXdbegZ]Zch^kZ_dZ[n# hZciVÆGZXdbbZcYZYWnGdj\]<j^YZhÇY^heaVnhi^X`Zg# I]ZhVbZ^Xdc^hVahdjhZYidÓV\jeWdd`gZXdbbZcYV" J^_i\ekhj^[Z_j_edfkXb_i^[ZDel[cX[h(&&.$ i^dch^ci]Z8dciZmihhZXi^dc#EaZVhZhZcYjhndjgdlc cdb^cVi^dch!l]^X]djgVji]dghl^aaWZ]VeenidX]ZX` dji[dg[jijgZZY^i^dch# 7YYecceZWj_edfh_Y[YeZ[i 6aai]ZVXXdbbdYVi^dca^hiZY^ci]^hWdd`]VhWZZc XViZ\dg^oZYVXXdgY^c\idi]Z[daadl^c\eg^XZXdYZh#;dg [jaaYZiV^ah!hZZe#(-# (%VcYjcYZg +&Ä,* &&&Ä&(% (&Ä)*,+Ä.% &(&Ä&*% )+Ä+%.&Ä&&% &*&VcYdkZg I]ZejWa^h]ZghVcYVji]dgh]VkZYdcZi]Z^gWZhiidZchjgZi]ZVXXjgVXnVcY XjggZcXnd[Vaai]Z^c[dgbVi^dc^cI]ZGdj\]<j^YZid6jhig^V!]dlZkZg!i]Zn <hedjYel[h_cW][0Heg^c\i^bZ^ci]Z6jhig^Vc6aeh XVcVXXZeicdgZhedch^W^a^in[dgVcnadhh!^c_jgn!dg^cXdckZc^ZcXZhjhiV^cZY IgVkZah]dih#Xdb$6aVbn WnVcnigVkZaaZgVhVgZhjaid[^c[dgbVi^dcdgVYk^XZXdciV^cZY^ci]Z\j^YZ# 8WYaYel[h_cW][0HigVjhhBdcjbZciDa^kZg7Zcc!6aVbn H_]^j0K^ZccVCViVhX]VHijgcn!Gdj\]<j^YZh Austria_4 Inside cover.indd 1 6/17/08 3:24:17 PM The Rough Guide to Austria written and researched by Jonathan Bousfeld, Rob Humphreys, Neville Walker and Christian Williams NEW YORK • LONDON • DELHI www.roughguides.com 00 Austria Colour intro 1-24.ind1 1 6/27/08 5:28:14 PM 00 Austria Colour intro 1-24.ind2 2 6/27/08 5:28:16 PM Contents Colour section 1 8 The Salzkammergut .......... 421 9 Tyrol .................................. 459 Introduction ............................... 4  Vorarlberg ......................... 51 Where to go ............................... 8 When to go .............................. 12 Contexts 555 Things not to miss ................... 14 History ................................... 557 Basics 25 Books .................................... 581 Getting there ........................... 27 Language 587 Getting around ......................... 2 Accommodation....................... 6 German .................................. 589 Food and drink ........................ 40 German words and phrases ... 590 The media ................................ 44 Food and drink ...................... 592 Festivals................................... 45 Glossary................................. 595 Outdoor activities .................... 47 Travel essentials ...................... 51 Travel store 601 Guide 57 Small print & Index 603 1 Vienna ................................. 59 2 Lower Austria .................... 149 Coffee and cakes 3 Upper Austria .................... 215 colour section 4 Burgenland........................ 24 following p.184 5 Styria ................................ 265 6 Carinthia and the East Tyrol .................................. 11 7 Salzburg and the Skiing colour section Salzburger Land ................ 67 following p.440 ff Innsbruck f Mountain biking in Paznaun, Tyrol 00 Austria Colour intro 1-24.ind3 3 6/27/08 5:28:20 PM | CONTENTS | Introduction to Austria Snowy Alps and the Sound of Music, Mozart and chocolate, the Spanish Riding School and the Vienna Boys’ Choir, skiing and yet more snowy Alps. The stock images of Austria are safe and old-fashioned, and are happily peddled by the country’s highly effcient tourist industry. But it’s not all old ladies in fur coats. For every wealthy St Anton skier, there’s a snowboarder in Schladming; for every Strauss concertgoer, there’s a clubber in Vienna; for every Kaffeehaus with Habsburg-era fxtures and fttings, there’s a designer sushi bar open down the road; and for every far-right voter, there are at least two who believe fervently in the country’s well-funded welfare state. Physically, the Alps dominate the landscape, but Austria is by no means all mountainous vistas: the country stretches across central Europe for some 700km, from the shores of the Bodensee in the west to the edge of the fat Hungarian plain in the east. Far removed from the archetype are the wetlands and reed beds of Burgenland, and the dramatic sequence of slopes that carve their way up the Erzberg in Styria. In Upper and Lower Austria in particular, the predominantly low-key landscape of gentle rolling hills and vineyards can come as something of a surprise to frst-time visitors. Yet this fertile, low-lying northern half of the country is, in fact, where the majority of Austrians live and work, many of them within commuting 4 distance of the capital, Vienna – the country’s chief tourist destination after the alpine regions. 00 Austria Colour intro 1-24.ind4 4 6/27/08 5:28:23 PM | INTRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN TO GO For all its love of old worldli- Fact file ness, and nostalgia for the days of the Habsburgs when Vienna was • Austria is a landlocked country the capital of a vast, multinational with an area of 8,855 square empire, Austria today is a thoroughly kilometres – roughly the size of Scotland or Idaho. The alps modern, clean and eminently take up to 62 percent of the civilized country. Its tourist facili- country: 9 percent is forested; ties are uniformly excellent, and 2 percent is pasture; and 17 whether you’re staying in one of percent arable. Of its eight neigh- the popular skiing, hiking or spa bouring countries, the longest shared border is with Germany. resorts, or in an out-of-the-way The highest point is the Gross- Gasthof, you’re likely to experience glockner peak (798m) and the Gemütlichkeit – a typically Austrian lowest the Neusiedlersee (115m). term expressing a mixture of relaxed The two major rivers are the cosiness and hospitality – at some Danube and the Inn. point during your visit. Like neigh- • The total population is 8.2 million, with 1.6 million (20 bouring Switzerland, Austria is also a percent) in Vienna. Of this, 78 supremely law-abiding nation, where percent is Roman Catholic and no one jaywalks or drops litter, and 5 percent Protestant. A total of the trains and trams run on time. 68 percent is employed in the In fact, looking at the country service industries; 29 percent in other industries and crafts; and at the beginning of the twenty- percent in agriculture and forestry. frst century – stable, conservative • Austria is a federal republic, and wealthy – you wouldn’t think divided into nine Länder (states): that Austria had spent most of the Burgenland, Carinthia, Lower previous century struggling to fnd a Austria, Salzburg, Styria, Tyrol, national identity. After all, it was only Upper Austria, Vienna and the in 1918, when the Habsburg Empire Vorarlberg. 5 00 Austria Colour intro 1-24.ind5 5 6/27/08 5:28:26 PM | INTRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN TO GO g Pasterze Glacier 8àS[CVSH /àSOCFSH /àSOCFSH /àSOCFSH 1M[Fŋ 1SBHVF 1SBHVF 1SBHVF #SOP 4UVUUHBSU 3FHFOTCVSH üFTLÏ#VEDKPWJDF *OHPMTUBEU $;&$)3&16#-*$ ;OPKNP .FUSFT (&3."/: (NàOE )PSO 1BTTBV ;XFUUM 611&3 "VHTCVSH 4DIÊSEJOH "6453*" 'SFJTUBEU ,SFNT 4UPDLFSBV .VOJDI #SBVOBV -JO[ 5VMMO ,MPTUFSOFVCVSH .FML 7*&//" 3JFEJN :CCT )BJOCVSH *OOLSFJT 8FMT 4U "NNFSTFF "NTUFUUFO 1ÚMUFO 4DIXFDIBU #SBUJTMBWB .ÚEMJOH #PEFOTFF 4UBSOCFS 4HFFFS $IJFNTFF 4BM[CVSH 4BM[LBNNFSHVU (NVOEFO 4UFZS 8BJEIPGFO "-604853&3*" #BEFO #SVDL &JTFOTUBEU -JOEBV #BE5ÚM[ 4U8PMGHBOH 8JFOFS/FVTUBEU /FVTJFEMFS #SFHFO[ (BSNJTDI #BE*TDIM .BSJB[FMM 4FF )BMMFJO 1BSUFOLJSDIFO ,VGTUFJO %PSOCJSO 3FVUUF 8ÚSHM #BE"VTTFF "ENPOU &JTFOFS[ .àS[[VTDIMBH 4PQSPO 4U+PIBOO &ISXBME +FOCBDI J5JSPM #JTDIPGTIPGFO #JTDIPGTIPGFO 'FMELJSDI 5FMGT 4FFGFME ,JU[CàIFM ;FMM 4U+PIBOO 4U+PIBOO 703"3-#&3( *NTU )BMM 4DIXB[ BN4FF J1POHBV J1POHBV -FPCFO #SVDL 4DIMBENJOH #MVEFO[ 4U"OUPO *OOTCSVDL ;FMMBN;JMMFS 45:3*" )BSUCFSH 4[PNCBUIFMZ -BOEFDL 5:30- 4"-;#63(&3 4"-;#63(&3 0CFSXBSU 4DISVOT *TDIHM .BZSIPGFO -"/% .VSBV ,OJUUFMGFME -*&$)5&/45&*/ +VEFOCVSH 4ÚMEFO &"45 #BEHBTUFJO ,ÚnBDI (SB[ #SVOFDL 5:30- 48*5;&3-"/% #SVOJDP -JFO[ 'FMECBDI $"3*/5)*" %FVUTDIMBOETCFSH 4U7FJU 4U.PSJU[ .FSBO #SJYFO 4QJUUBM -FJCOJU[ )6/("3: #SFTTBOPOF 8ÚSUIFSTFF .FSBOP 7JMMBDI #BE3BELFSTCVSH ,MBHFOGVSU #P[FO .BSJCPS #PM[BOP 5BSWJTJP / 4-07&/*" 5SFOUP *5"-: 6EJOF -KVCMKBOB -BHPE*TFP (PSJ[JB $30"5*" -BHPEJ(BSEB ;BHSFC 5SJFTUF 7FSPOB 7FOJDF "%3*"5*$ "%3*"5*$ LN 4&" .JMBO 1BEVB 1VMB %BMNBUJBODPBTU 7VLPWBS disintegrated, that the idea of a modern Austrian nation was born. The new republic, with a population of just eight million reluctant citizens, was riven by left- and right-wing political violence and, as a result, the majority of Austrians were wildly enthusiastic about the Anschluss with Nazi Germany in 1938. The price of Austria’s participation, and ultimately defeat, in World War II, however, was Allied occupation. For ten years the country was split, 6 like Germany, into Soviet, American, British and French zones. As a gesture of détente, the Soviets fnally agreed to withdraw their troops, in return 00 Austria Colour intro 1-24.ind6 6 6/27/08 5:28:27 PM B % O V C F #VEBQFTU #VEBQFTU #VEBQFTU 4-07 ",*" | INTRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN TO GO .JMBO "OEFSNBUU ;àSJDI ;àSJDI 1GPS[IFJN % B V O / % C / - " 3 ( & F # 6 1M[Fŋ 1SBHVF 1SBHVF 1SBHVF #SOP üFTLÏ#VEDKPWJDF $;&$)3&16#-*$ ;OPKNP (NàOE )PSO 1BTTBV ;XFUUM 611&3 4DIÊSEJOH 'SFJTUBEU "6453*" ,SFNT 4UPDLFSBV 5VMMO -JO[ ,MPTUFSOFVCVSH .FML 7*&//" 3JFEJN :CCT )BJOCVSH *OOLSFJT 8FMT 4U "NTUFUUFO 1ÚMUFO 4DIXFDIBU #SBUJTMBWB .ÚEMJOH 4BM[LBNNFSHVU 4UFZS -08&3 #BEFO #SVDL (NVOEFO 8BJEIPGFO "6453*" &JTFOTUBEU 4U8PMGHBOH 8JFOFS/FVTUBEU /FVTJFEMFS #BE*TDIM .BSJB[FMM 4FF #BE"VTTFF "ENPOU .àS[[VTDIMBH 4PQSPO &JTFOFS[ #JTDIPGTIPGFO 4U+PIBOO -FPCFO J1POHBV #SVDL 4DIMBENJOH 45:3*" )BSUCFSH 4[PNCBUIFMZ 4"-;#63(&3 0CFSXBSU ,OJUUFMGFME .VSBV +VEFOCVSH ,ÚnBDI (SB[ 'FMECBDI $"3*/5)*" %FVUTDIMBOETCFSH 4U7FJU 4QJUUBM )6/("3: -FJCOJU[ 8ÚSUIFSTFF 7JMMBDI #BE3BELFSTCVSH ,MBHFOGVSU .BSJCPS 5BSWJTJP 4-07&/*" -KVCMKBOB $30"5*" (PSJ[JB ;BHSFC 5SJFTUF "%3*"5*$ LN 1VMB %BMNBUJBODPBTU 7VLPWBS for Austria’s “permanent neutrality”. At this point, Austria turned over a new leaf, and recast itself as a model of consensus politics, with an almost Scandinavian emphasis on social policy as the guiding principle of national life. Postwar stability saw the growth of a genuine, albeit low-key, patriotism, while the end of the Cold War put the country, and its capital, back at the heart of Europe. In 1995, Austria became a full member of the European Union, a move 7 that for many was a sign that the country had fnally entered the mainstream 00 Austria Colour intro 1-24.ind7 7 6/27/08 5:28:28 PM | INTRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN TO GO #VEBQFTU #VEBQFTU #VEBQFTU 4-07 ",*" % B V O / % C / - " 3 ( & F # 6 of European politics. From time to time, Austria’s more reactionary elements have attracted widespread media attention, most notably during the Waldheim afair in 1986, when the wartime record of the president was called into question, and in 2000, when the far right Freedom Party under the charismatic Jörg Haider entered a coalition government. But the reality is that the Socialist party retains the strongest infuence in government, as it has for much of the postwar period, and the country’s political stability, for the most part, continues intact. Where to go here’s a lot to be said for concentrating on just one or two regions, rather than trying to cover a bit of everything in one trip – you could happily spend a week or two in any one of the Austrian Tprovinces, or Länder. Austria’s unique combination of outdoor attrac- tions and classic urban centres ensures that you can pack a lot of variety into your stay: take in some fresh air at a high altitude, linger over one of the country’s world-class art collections, make the most of a musical heritage second to none, or select any number from the list of recommended highlights below. 8 00 Austria Colour intro 1-24.ind8 8 6/27/08 5:28:31 PM  Almabtreib, the return of the cows from the alpine pastures | INTRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN TO GO

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