The Restaurant, a Geographical Approach: from invention to gourmet tourist destinations

313 Pages·2020·32.222 MB·English

by  Etcheverria, Olivier

The Restaurant, A Geographical Approach

Tourism and Mobility Systems Set
coordinated by
Philippe Violier
Volume 3
The Restaurant,
A Geographical Approach

From Invention to Gourmet
Tourist Destinations

Olivier Etcheverria
First published 2020 in Great Britain and the United States by ISTE Ltd and John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
Apart from any fair dealing for the purposes of research or private study, or criticism or review, as
permitted under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988, this publication may only be reproduced,
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ISTE Ltd John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
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© ISTE Ltd 2020
The rights of Olivier Etcheverria to be identified as the author of this work have been asserted by him in
accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.
Library of Congress Control Number: 2020930311

British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data
A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library
ISBN 978-1-78630-434-6
Contents
Foreword . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ix
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xi
Part 1. The Restaurant: An Eminently Urban Subject . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Introduction to Part 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Chapter 1. The Geographical Origin of the Restaurant:
The Urban Environment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
1.1. From bouillons… . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
1.2. … to the establishment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Chapter 2. The Concentration of Restaurants
in the City Centers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
2.1. A center-specific logic… . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
2.2. … to a logic of axes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
2.2.1. Axial diffusion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
2.2.2. Social diffusion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Chapter 3. The Geographical Diffusion of Restaurants
in Provinces by Cities and City Networks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
3.1. The geographical diffusion of restaurants in the provinces:
an application of rank-size law… . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
3.2. … but disrupted by tourism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
vi The Restaurant, A Geographical Approach
Part 2. The Restaurant in Terms of Places and
Geographical Spaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Introduction to Part 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Chapter 4. Logics and Strategies for Locating Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . 51
4.1. The logic of proximity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
4.1.1. Proximity to the political and administrative sphere
and the business world . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
4.1.2. Proximity to the cultural sphere and the artistic world . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
4.1.3. Proximity to food retail and supply points . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
4.2. Accessibility logics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
4.3. The logic of landscape charm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
4.4. The logic of assimilation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
4.4.1. Affectivity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
4.4.2. Appropriation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
Chapter 5. Restaurants in the City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
5.1. Restaurants in small cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
5.2. Restaurants in average-sized cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
5.3. New dynamics in large cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
Chapter 6. Restaurants in the Countryside and the
Relationship Between Cities and the Countryside . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
6.1. Restaurants in the countryside . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
6.2. The restaurant, the city/countryside relationship
and nature in the city . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
Part 3. The Restaurant at the Heart of the
Tourist System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
Introduction to Part 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
Chapter 7. The Relationship Between the
Restaurant and Tourism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
7.1. Complementary relations between restaurants and tourism . . . . . . . . . . . 116
7.1.1. Along the coastlines, at the beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
7.1.2. In the mountains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
7.2. The interdependence between restaurants and tourism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
7.2.1. The restaurant through tourism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
7.2.2. The restaurant for tourism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
Contents vii
Chapter 8. The Restaurant, a Tool for Gourmet Tourism . . . . . . . . . . . . 141
8.1. Cavaillon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
8.2. Le Puy-Sainte-Réparade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
8.3. Megève . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
Chapter 9. The Restaurant as a Gourmet Tourist Destination . . . . . . . . . 155
9.1. The gourmet tourist destination: from the
3-star Michelin restaurant… . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
9.2. … to a network of restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
Part 4. The Restaurant as a Tool for Local Development . . . . . . . . . . . . 163
Introduction to Part 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
Chapter 10. Restaurants and Local Development
in Urban Areas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
10.1. At street level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
10.2. At neighborhood level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
Chapter 11. Restaurant and Local Development
in Rural Areas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
11.1. On the scale of the plateau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
11.2. Across the country . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
11.3. At the village level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200
Part 5. The Restaurant: What Heritage? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
Introduction to Part 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
Chapter 12. The Restaurant: From Monument to Heritage . . . . . . . . . . . 211
12.1. The restaurant as a historical monument . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
12.2. The restaurant as a showcase for intangible
cultural heritage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233
12.2.1. The repertoire restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233
12.2.2. The haven restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237
12.2.3. The observatory restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240
12.2.4. The conservatory restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243
12.3. The restaurant in heritage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248
viii The Restaurant, A Geographical Approach
Chapter 13. Tourists as Actors in the Process
of Adding Cultural Heritage to Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251
13.1. Parisian brasseries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251
13.2. Lyon’s bouchons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258
13.3. La Mère Poulard restaurant in Mont-Saint-Michel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261
13.4. What about the bouillons? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263
Conclusion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273
References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285