The Principles and Practice of Hairdressing

224 Pages·1983·47.278 MB·English

by  Leo Palladino B.A., M.I.T. (auth.)

ISBN 978-0-333-34903-8
9 780333 349038
THE PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE
OF HAIRDRESSING
Alsoby LeoPalladino
HairdressingManagement
(with John Perry)
THE PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE
OF HAIRDRESSING
LEO PALLADINO, B.A., M.I.T.
HeadofDepartmentofSocialandScientificStudies,
GloucestershireCollegeofArtsand Technology
Second Edition
M
© LeoPalladino 1972, 1983
Figs14.1-14.13and 14.15-14.18©The Instituteof Dermatology,
University of London
All rights reserved. No part of this publication
may bereproduced or transmitted, in any form
or by any means,without permission.
Firstedition 1972
Reprinted 1974 (with corrections), 1977 (twice),1978, 1980, 1981
Secondedition 1983
Published by
THE MACMILLAN PRESS LTO
LondonandBasingstoke
Companies andrepresentatives
throughout the world
ISBN978-0-333-34903-8 ISBN978-1-349-06724-4(eBook)
DOI 10.1007/978-1-349-06724-4
The paperback edition of thisbook issold subject to the condition that it shall not,
by way of trade or otherwise, be lent, re-sold, hired out, or otherwisecirculated
without the publisher's prior consent in any form of binding or cover other than
that inwhich itispublished andwithout asimilarcondition including this condition
being imposed on the subsequentpurchaser.
Contents
Prefaceto the First Edition ix roller curl. A method of rollering. 7. Common
Prefaceto theSecond Edition ix curling faults. 8. Curl bases and sections. Curl
Acknowledgements x practice and exercises. 9. The clockface method.
Revisiontests and vocabulary. 25
1. Introduction 1
Part Two: 10. Setting. Curl combinations. Curl
1. Hairdressing- definition. 2. The aim of
variations. The cascade or stand-up curl. The
hairdressing. Related studies. 3.The hairdresser.
barrel curl. The part stand-up curl. The reverse
4. Methods of training. Apprenticeship and
curl. Root-tensioned, crescent and ringlet curls.
full-time training. Recognized courses and
Curl gadgets. 11.The steam set. 12. Heated roller
examinations. Addresses for further information.
setting. 13. The pli. 14. Science reference.
5. The course of study and training. Hygiene.
Keratin. Humidity. The natural curl. Curlingdry
Deportment. Attitude. Punctuality. 6. Sa.lon
hair with heat. 15. Setting lotions. 16.Aesthetic
training. 7. Hairdressing courses and exarmna
reference. 17. The curl in boardwork. The pin
tions. 8. The principles and practice of
curl, pin wave and pin curl marteau. 18. Curling
hairdressing.
in boardwork. Plaiting, crimping and en
papillote.
2. Reception and Client Preparation 4 Revisiontests and vocabulary.
Part One: 1. Reception of the client. 2. The
receptionist. 3. The client. 4. Hygienic condi
4. Shampooingand Shampoos 34
tions. 5. Conduct in the salon. 6. Attending the
PartOne: 1. Shampoo. 2. Types of basin.3.The
client. 7. Preparation of the client. Protective shampooing position. The action of the hands.
coverings. Varieties of wraps. Protective aids. The effect of the shampoo. 4. A method of
Stained clothes. 8. Method of preparing the
shampooing. 5. Shampooing do's and don't's. 6.
client. 9. Preparation of the client's hair. Method
Supply of water..7. Water, plu'!'bing ~nd
of preparation. 10. Combs and combing. Useof
drainage. 8. Aesthetics and shampoolnq. Design
the comb. 11. Brushes and brushing. Useof the
of containers.Water and art.
brush. 12. Cleaningcombs and brushes.
Revisiontestsand vocabulary. 41
Revisiontests and vocabulary. 11
Part Two: 9. The first type of shampoo. 10.The
Part Two: 13. Decor and reception. 14. Display.
wet shampoo. Soft soap shampoo. 11.Chemicals
15. Advertising. 16. Aesthetics and hair prepara
contained in water. Watersoftening. 12.Soapless
tion. 17. Science and reception. 18. Bacteriaand
shampoos. 13. The action of the shampoo. 14.
fungi. Pathogenic bacteria, cocci, bacilli, spiril.la
Variations of shampoos. Medicated shampoo.
and fungi. 19. Sterilization and antisepsis.
Treatment shampoos. Oil shampoos. Oil applica
Methods of sterilization. Ultra-violet light.
tion. Egg shampoo. Lemon shampoo. Beer and
Formaldehyde vaporizing cabinet. Disinfectants.
champagne shampoos. Types of shampoo. Dry
General sterilizing in the salon. 20. Boardw.ork
shampoos. Liquid spirit. Dry shampoo powder.
and hair preparation. Hair tangle. Turning.
Dry cleaners. 15. The choice of a shampoo.
Drawingbrushes, cards and tools.
Texture. Type of water. What is required of the
Rllvisiontestsand vocabulary.
shampoo. The treatment the hair is to receive.
16. Beforeshampooing. 17.Duringthe shampoo.
3. Curlsand Curling 17
18.After shampooing.
Part One: 1. The curl. 2. Curls for setting. 3.
Revisiontests and vocabulary.
Rules for curls. 4. Curling and curling aids. 5.
Types of curl. The barrelspring c~rl. The
clockspring curl. 6. Methods of curling. The
vi THE PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE OF HAIRDRESSING
5. Perming 48 waving heat. 5. A method of waving.Joining up.
Part One- Sectioning and Winding: 1. Perm Underwaving. 6. Curling with irons. Types of
ing- definition. 2. Sectioning generally. 3. curl. Methods of forming. Forming aringlet.The
Sectioning for perming. Methodof sectioning for barrelspring curl. Softening and curling. Full
cold perming. Tools required. Sectioning varia waves or reversecurling.Wavingthe head of hair,
tions. Sectioning for tepid and hot perming. traditionally. Dressing. 7. Modern styling or pli
Sectioning practice. 4. Winding- definition. with irons. 8. Dangers and precautions. Cleaning
Method of winding a cold perm curler. 5. irons. Treatmentof burns. Fire.
Winding aids. Curlers used for cold perming. 6. Revisiontests and vocabulary.
Winding practice. Models used for winding
practice. Angles of winding. 7. Preparation for
8. Haircutting 84
perming. Care of hands. 8. Common perming
Part One- Introduction and Tools Used: 1.
factors. Cold perm application. Pre-perm
Cutting- definition. 2. Tools used. Scissors
shampooing. Reagents used. Processing. Hair
parts, holding, practice and exercises. Razors
texture. Temperature. Normalizing and normal
parts of, types, setting, stropping and holding.
izers. 9. Cold perming faults and corrections. 10.
The modern hair shaper, Thinning or tapering
Before, during and after perming. Tests. Setting
scissors. Clippers- hand, electric, uses.
the perm.
Combs - types and holding. Cutting aids. 3.
Revisiontests and vocabulary. 56
Cleaning tools. 4. Dangers and precautions. First
Part Two: 11. History of perming. Hot perming aid.
systems. Wirelessand machinelesssystems.Tepid Revisiontests and vocabulary.
94
and exothermic perming. Cold perming systems.
Part Two- Terms, Techniques and Basic
Semi-permanent waving. 12. Science reference.
Method: 5. Names and terms of techniques.
The actionof permingon hair. The effectof heat
Tapering. Point tapering. Feathering. Back
on hair. 13. The chemistry of perming. 14.
combing taper. 6.Club cutting.Club cutting over
Permanent curling inboardwork. Frissure forcee.
a comb, over the fingers, with clippers or razors.
Crop curling. Creoling. Permanently curling
7. Thinning- action, root, point. 8.Wet and dry
postiche. 15. Aesthetics of perming. Design,
cutting. 9. Graduation - a graduatedcut, reverse
anglesand illustrations.
graduation. Angles, cutting lines, guides. Parts of
Revisiontestsand vocabulary.
62 the head. Cutting practice. 10. A basic cut.
Part Three: 16. Hair straightening. 17. Temp Method of cutting a basic shape. The first cut,
orary straightness. Hot combs. 18. Permanent cutting the nape, sides, top crown and front.
chemical straightening. Methodsof straightening. Checking the cut. During the cut. Adapting the
Restraightening or retouching. shape. 11. Science and cutting. Tools. Cutting
Revisiontestsand vocabulary. and hair growth,distribution of hair, hair streams
and whorls. Angles used and effect on the hair.
6. Finger Wavingand BlowWaving 65 12. Aesthetics and cutting. 13. Cutting and
PartOne:1. Finger waving- definition. Practice. boardwork- boardwork cuttings, combings,
Setting lotion. Positioning the hair. 2. Amethod clubbingand taper.Cutting eyelashes.
of finger waving. 3. Waving the complete head. Revision testsand vocabulary.
106
Dressing. Horizontal waving. Vertical or 'strip'
Part Three- Fashion and Style Cutting: 14.
waving. Two- and three-wavesets. Pompadour.4.
Fashion and style cutting. Features of face and
Waving faults. Precautions. 5. Modern finger
head. Techniques and methods used. 15. Cutting
waving. 6. The effect of finger waving. 7. Finger
lines and angles. 16. Cutting long hair. 17.
wavinginboardwork.
Cutting short curly shapes. 18. Geometric
Revisiontestsand vocabulary.
72 cutting. 19. Cutting for long and short effects.
Part Two: 8. Blow waving. 9. Tools and Named short styles. 20. Men's cutting. 21.
preparation. 10. A method of blow waving. 11. Variation of cuts. Necklines. Trimming or
Blow drying. 12. Blow combing. 13. Hair recutting.
stretching. Revision tests.
Revisiontestsand vocabulary.
9. Dressing 115
7. Wavingwith Irons 76 1. Dressing the hair. Dressing with a brush.
1. Wavingwith irons - definition. Marcelwaving. Backbrushing, and method. Backcombing, and
Varieties of waving. Usesof waving.2.The tools. method. Backdressing. Teasing. The useof hands
Waving irons, heaters and stoves. 3. Useof irons. and mirrors. 2. A simple dressing. Styledressing.
Exercises. 4. Preparation for waving. Testing Overdressing. Backdressing and the client. 3.
CONTENTS vii
Dressing long hair. Dressing a pleat or hai~ fold. colouring. Lighting. 7. Precautions. 8. Summary
Plaiting the hair. Dressing and omarnentation.4. of hair colourings.
Dressing and postiche.Typesand list of postiche, Revisiontestsand vocabulary. 147
5. Postiche making. Measurements and patterns.
Part Two - Varieties of Colourings: 9. The
Patterns. Postiche details. Partings. A record
chemistry of colour. (AI Vegetable dyes. (BI
card. 6. Science and dressing. Lacquer and
Vegetable and mineral dyes. (C) Mineral
precautions when using it. Control creams ~nd
colourings. (i) Metallic colourings, incompat
oils. Static electricity. Natural gloss. 7. Dressing
ibility and tests. (ij) Aniline derivatives
and aesthetics.
temporary, semi-permanent, quasi-permanent
Revision testsand vocabulary.
and permanent colourings. 10. Hydrogen per
oxide. The volume strength to use. Pre
10. Hairstyling 124
lightening, pre-softening, activation. 11.Aest~et­
PartOne: 1. Hairstyling process.Ahair style, and
icsand colouring.Colourand light. 12. Colouring
its purpose. 2. Hair-style design. The shape of the
hair. 13. Colouring boardwork. Colour matching
face and head. The face. The head, neck and
and mixing. 14. Tinting colour faults and
features of the body. The dress and occasion.
corrections.
The quality and quantity of hair. The ageof the
Revisiontests and vocabulary. 152
client. The young teenager. The young married
woman. Career women. The older woman. PartThree- Bleaching, ToningandDecolouring:
Positioning of the hair. The outer shape. 3. 15. Bleaching. Bleaches and lighteners. Oil,
Styling requirements. Suitability. Balance. The liquid, powder, paste and cream blea~hes.
line. Use of partings. Movement. Soft and hard Hydrogen peroxide - table of dilutions.
effects. Originality. 4. Personal choice instyling. Ammonium hydroxide. 16. Preparation, section
Personalityof theclient. 5. Salon styling. ing application of bleaching. Overbleaching.
Re~oval
Revisiontestsand vocabulary. 132 of bleaches. 17. The bleaching action.
Colour lift. 18. Streaking or bleached streaks,
Part Two: 6. Types of hair style. Day style.
methods. Tipping, frosting, brightening and
Cocktail style. Evening styles. High fashion.
blending. 19. Tinting bleached hair back to a
Fashion styles. Children'sstyles. Men's styling.7.
natural colour. 20. Brightening shampoos and
Competition stYling. Types of hairstyling com
rinses. When to bleach. Effects of sun, sand and
petitions. Future competitors. T~e mo~el. The
salt. Testing. Precautions. 21. Toning. Toners
style. 8. Fantasy dressings.AllegOricalhair styles.
mixing, application, development, and range of
Historical dressings and powder dressings. 9.The
colour. 22. Decolouring. Oxidation tints and
science of hairstyling. 10. Aesthetics and
other colourings. Method of decolouring. The
hairstyling. Sketching and drawing. Aesthetic
peroxide test. Recolouring after decolouring.
appreciation. 11. Postlehe and styling. The
Newproducts.23.Colourcorrecting - lightening
client's useofpostiche. Hairornaments.
and toning.
Revisiontestsand vocabulary.
Revisiontestsand vocabulary.
11. HairColouring 138
12. The Hairand Skin 160
Part One- Categories and Applic8tion: 1. Hair Part One- The Hair: 1. The hair - definition,
colouring- definition. Divisions: (AI Tinting;
similar structures. Human hair. Negroid, Mon
(BI Bleaching. (All Temporary colourings
goloid, Caucasian and European. 2. Functionsof
rinses, coloured setting lotions, hair lacquers,
hair - buffer, insulating,warning. Adornment.3.
sprays, crayons and paints. Glitterdust. (~21
Types of hair - terminal, short bristle, lanugo
Semi-permanent colourings- range, preparation,
and vellus. 4. Parts of the hair. The cuticle,
application, stains, advantages. (A31 Quasi
cortex and medulla. The hair follicle, lining,
permanents. (A41 Permanentcolourings.Tinting.
inner and outersheaths, vitreous membrane. Hair
2. Colour choice, hair texture, porosity and
papilla. Colour change of hair. 5. Follicle
condition, natural hair and skin colour, grey,
appendages- sebaceous gland, sebum. The
white and albino hair.Client'schoice and typeof
sudoriferous gland, sweat and skin pores.
colouring to use. 3. Skin reaction. Skin test. 4.
Secretory and excretory. Hair muscle and 'hair
Preparation of the hair for tinting. Sectioning,
ache'. 6. The blood supplyto and from the head.
mixing the colourant, application, processing.
7. The nerve supply, cranial and cervical nerves.
Hair colour or strand test. Removing the tint.
8. Hair structure- new theory.
Colour result. 5. Tinting in practice. Virgin hair,
Revisiontests and vocabulary. 171
tinting of virgin hair. Regrowth tinting
combing through. Tinting darker or lighter. Part TIM) - The Skin: 8. The skin - definition
Resistant hair. 6. Competition and fantasy and functions. 9. Parts of the skin - the
viii THE PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE OF HAIRDRESSING
epidermis and-layers, the dermis, papillary and 8.Electrolysis, epilation and depilatories. 9.
reticular layers. Subcutaneous tissue. 10. The Science of hair care.10. Aestheticsand hair care.
scalp and epicranial aponeurosis. 11. The 11. Haircare and postiche.
skull - bones of the head and face. 12. Hair Revisiontests and vocabulary.
growth - replacement, growing stages, activa
tion. Influencing factors - health and diet, 14. Hairand Scalp Diseases 188
components of diet, age and sex, hormones, 1. Normal healthy skin. Prevention of disease.2.
endocrine ductless ghinds. Heredity, climate and Cause of disease, recognition, symptoms, diag·
seasons, physical conditions. Disease. 13. Hair nosis. 3. Hygiene. 4. Diseases: Furunculosis.
shape formation. Acne vulgaris. Impetigo. Sycosis. Pityriasis
Revisiontestsand vocabulary. capitis, simplex, sicca (dandruff). Dermatitis.
Seborrhoea, seborrhoeic oleosa. Scurf. Sebor
13. Hair Care 178 rhoeic steatoides, eczema, dermatitis. Eczema.
1. Hair care - definition. 2. The condition or Scabies. Pediculosis capitis. Ringworm or tinea
state of the hair. External factors. Atmospheric capitis. Warts or verrucae. Psoriasis. Alopecia
influences. Chemical and physical effects of areata, totalis, universalis. Cysts. Fragilitas
processes. Internal functions. Psychological crinium. Trichorrhexis nodosa. Monilethrix or
factors. Hl-health and disease. 3.Determiningthe beaded hair. Canities and ringed hair. Hvper
condition. 4. Conditioners. 5. Types of condi trichosisor hirsuties.
tioners- surface external, penetrating internal, Revisiontests and vocabulary.
or combined properties. 6. Conditioning or
reconditioning. Rehabilitating rinses and condi· 15. Hairdressingand Related Subjects 198
tioning creams. Greasy hair. Before and after Practical hairdressing. Related science. Aesthetics
processing. Corrective conditioners. Maintaining and hairdressing. Boardwork and hairdressing.
healthy condition. 7. Treatments. Massage,uses
and effects. Hand massage movements
effleurage, petrissage, tapotement, and vibration. Appendix I: Metric Units, Symbols, Examples and
Scalp massage and application. Hot towels. Equivalents. 203
Steamers. Accelerators. Radiant heat, infra-red
and ultra-violet light rays. Thermal caps. The Appendix II: Safety Factors intheSalon 206
'vibro' or vibratory machine - effects, applies
tion, cleaning applicators. Oil treatments, Appendix III: Hydrogen Peroxide Percentage
applications and shampoos. An oil treatment. Strengths 208
Proprietary oil shampoos. High frequency
application, uses,contra-indications, precautions. Index 209
Preface to the First Edition
This book isintendedto be used by allengaged inhairdressing, particularly by students and apprenticestaking
qualifying examinations. It is of special use to those studying courses offered by the City and Guilds of
London Institute, and the Hairdressing Council. I hope that allstudentswillfind thetext of interestand that
the book will provide a systematic guide to the course from the first simple introduction to the craft up to
advanced standardsof proficiency.
The book is an integrated one, relating other subjects, particularly hairdressing science, and art, to the
techniques and skills of hairdressing. Each chapter may be read separately in any order;the first part ineach
chapter gives an introduction to the subject, and parts 2 and 3 build on the basic fundamentals so as to
introducethe more advanced work.
Several chapters may more profitably be read inconjunctionwith one another. For example,Chapters3, 5,
6 and 7deal with temporary and permanentcurling or waving.Chapters8, 9 and 10deal with cutting,dressing
or hairstyling, and are intendedto complementone another. Chapters 12, 13 and 14deal with thestructureof
hair and skin, its care and the recognition of common skin diseases, and are best read together. The other
chapters stand independently, particularly those on shampooing and colouring,though they remain of course
essential partsof the whole.
The final chapter, 15, isintendedasaguide to thework asawhole and isanendeavourto represent visually
the relationship between each of the main topics. This, it isthought, will beof valueto thestudent and to the
lecturer working in a controlled college course, and it will also greatly benefit those others who may usethe
book in a self-teaching situation. Every attempt has been made to present the most suitable methods in
hairdressing techniques, and a numberof variants have been included, bearingin mind the limitations imposed
by thefinal length of the book.
I should like to take this opportunity of acknowledging with sincere thanks all those who have been
responsible for the production of the book; in particular Iwish to record my gratitude to my wife who has
read and re-read the script at every stage, and to my family for theirforebearance during the period inwhich it
was written. I have to thank Stanley Thomes, of the Macmillan Press, for his continued help .and
encouragement; Douglas Bartrick for his help with the photography and illustration classification; Janice
Herriman for reading and checking the science content; Sue Simpson,of Oxford Illustrators,for her help and
work on the line drawings; H. K. Heppell, Principal of Gloucester Technical College, for reading and
commentingon a largepartof thescript;to those who taught me my craft,and allthosefriends and colleagues
inhairdressing, education and related organizationsfor theirgreat help and encouragement.
LEO PALLADINO
January 1972
Preface to the Second Edition
Since the first edition was published in 1972, the changes in hairdressing that havetaken place confirmwhat
was featured in the original edition: namely, that a knowledge and understanding of the basic principles and
techniques enable most studentsto adapt to the inevitablechanges thatcome about through time.
The popularity with blow styling continues.The amountof styling with hot brusheshas really come to the
fore, particularly for home use.This hasemphasizedstill more the importanceof good hair cuttingand shaping.
Systems of perming and conditioning, too, have improved and the effects of better-looking hair and style are
most acceptable.