The President’s Kitchen Cabinet: The Story of the African Americans Who Have Fed Our First Families, from the Washingtons to the Obamas PDF
Preview The President’s Kitchen Cabinet: The Story of the African Americans Who Have Fed Our First Families, from the Washingtons to the Obamas
The President’s Kitchen Cabinet ★ ★ ★ This page intentionally left blank The President’s Kitchen Cabinet The Story of the A f r i cA n A m e r i cA n s Who Have Fed Our First Families, from the WA s h i n gto n s to the o bA m A s ★ Adrian Miller the University of north cArolinA Press Chapel Hill This book was published with the assistance of the John hoPe frAnklin fUnd of the University of North Carolina Press. © 2017 Adrian Miller All rights reserved Manufactured in the United States of America Designed by Richard Hendel Set in Bulmer by Tseng Information Systems, Inc. The University of North Carolina Press has been a member of the Green Press Initiative since 2003. Cover illustrations: newly remodeled White House kitchen, 1902 (courtesy Library of Congress); Obama State Service Plate (courtesy White House Historical Association); Gilbert Stuart, Portrait of George Washington’s Cook, ca. 1795–97. © 2016 Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza / Scala, Florence. Library of Congress Cataloging- in- Publication Data Names: Miller, Adrian, author. Title: The president’s kitchen cabinet : the story of the African Americans who have fed our first families, from the Washingtons to the Obamas / Adrian Miller. Description: Chapel Hill : The University of North Carolina Press, [2017] | Includes bibliographical references and index. Identifiers: lccn 2016042812| isbn 9781469632537 (cloth : alk. paper) | isbn 9781469632544 (ebook) Subjects: lcsh: African American cooks—Biography. | Cooks— United States—Biography. | White House (Washington, D.C.)— Employees. | Presidents—United States—Staff—History. | Presidents— United States—History. | White House (Washington, D.C.)—History. Classification: lcc tX649.A1 m55 2017 | ddc 641.5092/2 [b] —dc23 lc record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2016042812 To all of the past, present, and future presidential cooks of African heritage: Your light shines bright despite persistent efforts to keep you in the shadows. To the late WAlter scheib iii, White House executive chef (1994–2005), whose enthusiasm for my work kept my pilot light lit. This page intentionally left blank contents Preface xi 1. the key ingredients of PresidentiAl foodWAys 1 reciPes How to Roast Ducks 29 Zephyr Wright’s Popovers 30 Sweet Potato Cheesecake 31 2. feeling At home The White House Steward and the Evolution of Presidential Provisioning 33 reciPes Minted Green Pea Soup 57 Bison Meat Brazilian Onions 58 3. bittersWeet African American Presidential Cooks in Antebellum America 59 reciPes Hoecakes 88 Snow Eggs 89 Baked Macaroni with Cheese 90 4. semisWeet Personal and Professional Presidential Cooks after Emancipation 92 reciPes Pedernales River Chili 123 President Eisenhower’s Old- Fashioned Beef Stew 124 Caroline Harrison’s Deviled Almonds 124 5. eAting on the rUn Presidential Foodways in Motion 126 reciPes Daisy Bonner’s Cheese Soufflé 158 Hawaiian French Toast 159 Jerk Chicken Pita Pizza 160 6. seeing throUgh A glAss dArkly African Americans and Presidential Drinkways 161 reciPes Inauguration Punch 185 White House Eggnog 186 White House Honey Ale 187 7. Above meAsUre The Future of African American Presidential Chefs 189 reciPes Sesame and Wasabi– Crusted Halibut 204 Layered Late- Summer Vegetables with Lemongrass and Red Curry Dressing 205 Grilled Salmon with Farro, Swiss Chard Salad, and a Tropical Smoothie 208 Notes 211 Bibliography 227 Index 245 illUstrAtions African American Presidential Culinary Professionals, 1789–2017 xx White House family kitchen, circa 1901 3 White House family dining room, circa 1901 9 White House kitchen, circa 1952 15 Author in White House kitchen with Adam Collick, White House kitchen steward 28 Samuel Fraunces newspaper advertisement, 1789 38 William T. Crump, presidential steward, 1862 44 White House market wagon, circa 1909 47 Inventory of kitchen utensils at Monticello, written by James Hemings 73 Old Soldiers’ Home, Washington, D.C., 2015 85 Domestic staff for President Hayes, March 1877 96 Dollie Johnson in White House kitchen, circa 1890 99 Dollie Johnson restaurant advertisement, 1905 104 John Moaney grilling with President Eisenhower, n.d. 112 Paula Patton- Moutsos, White House assistant chef, 2003 122 Kitchen staffer during Kennedy administration, circa 1961 134 Daisy Bonner at Warm Springs, Georgia, n.d. 137 Presidential yacht USS Mayflower, circa 1912 140 White House Mess during the Reagan administration, 1986 145 Reagan-era Air Force One, rear galley, 2015 156 Arthur Brooks, White House wine cellar custodian, 1919 167 Alonzo Fields with other White House butlers, n.d. 174 Republic of South Africa State Dinner menu card, 1994 194 Adam Collick, White House kitchen steward, 2003 199 Kiana Farkash at 2014 Kids’ State Dinner 202 A section of color photographs follows page 106
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