The Poetry of Fashion Design: A Celebration of the World's Most Interesting Fashion Designers PDF
Preview The Poetry of Fashion Design: A Celebration of the World's Most Interesting Fashion Designers
A CELE8RATIO OF THE WORLD'S MOST I TERESTIG - / paz diman 0/ 7£e !Poelry FASHION DESIGN ::a '" ." m A CELEBRATION OF THE WORLD'S MOST INTERESTING < c m 0 Yashion 7)esiyners '" '" r -< (') r s: » - " Vl Vl Paz Diman Vl"""'C » (1 :I: :I: 0 C m Vl ::a m -< '" -< -t Vl Vl Copyright © 2011 by mao mao publications First published in 2011 in the United States of America by Rockport Publishers, a member of Quayside Publishing Group 100 Cummings Center Suite 406-L Beverly, MA 01915-6101 Telephone: (978) 282-9590 Fax: (978) 283-2742 www.rockpub.com Digital edition: 978-1-61060-230-3 Softcover edition: 978-1-59253-715-0 ISBN-13: 978-1-59253-715-0 ISBN-10: 1-59253-715-4 10987654321 Publisher: Paco Asensio Editorial coordination: Anja Llorella Oriol Editor and texts: Paz Diman Art director: Emma Termes Parera Layout: Maira Purman English translation: Cillero & de Motta Editorial Project: maomao publications Via Laietana, 32 4th fl. of. 104 08003 Barcelona, Espana Tel.: +34932688088 Fax: +34933174208 www.maomaopublications.com Printed in All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permis sion except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. maomao affirms that it possesses all the necessary rights for the publication of this material and has duly paid all royal ties related to the authors' and photographers' rights. mao mao also affirms that it has violated no property rights and has respected common law, all authors' rights and other rights that could be relevant. Finally, mao mao affirms that this book contains no obscene nor slanderous material. Whole or partial reproduction of this book without editor authorization infringes reserved rights; any utilization must be previously requested. 7 Introduction 190 Katie Eary 10 8045 198 Khalid AI Qasimi 16 Aldo Lanzini 204 Kristofer Kongshaug 22 Alejandra Quesada 210 Ksubi 32 Andrea Cammarosano 216 Kumiko Watari 36 Andrea Llosa 224 Lino Villaventura 42 Antonio Azzuolo 230 Louisa Parris 46 Barbara f Gongini 240 Lucile Puton 54 Bibian Blue 246 Maison Martin Margiela 60 c.neeon 256 Mary Wing To 68 Capara 262 Matohu 76 Dassios 268 Maxjenny 82 Deryck Walker 272 Michael Sontag 86 Dino Alves 278 Miriam Ponsa 94 Dora Abodi 288 Moi Multiple 100 EI Delgado Buil 296 Natsumi Zama 106 Femme Maison 302 Poti Poti 114 Friederike von Wedel-Parlow 308 Robert Geller 120 Gareth Moody 314 Roberta Furnaletto 128 George Bezhanishvili 322 Saara Lepokorpi 136 Gudrun & Gudrun 332 Toga 142 Heidi Ackerman 340 Txell Miras 152 Hilda Maha 348 Ute Ploier 158 House of Diehl 356 Vladimir Karaleev 164 Ilaria Nistri 362 Walter Van Beirendonck 168 Iris van Herpen 370 Yiorgos Eleftheriades 176 Juan Antonio Avalos 376 Yong Kyun Shin 182 Karishma Shahani "Eat, drink, swallow my letter, carry it, trans support. Cloth ing covers the certainty that we port it in you, like the law of a writing become exist through a perfect machine wrapped in your body ( ...) ." Jacques Derrida skin, in flesh. The designers use the language, the sto In The Fashion System, the French sem ioti ries they imagine for each collection as a start cian Roland Barthes envisioned a three-pillar ing point and a practical ability to create life structure that served to explain this phenom through patterns, seams and fabric. Playing enon that is so elusive and difficult to charac with the meaning of words (feminine, ethe terize. Barthes says there is always "image real, androgynous, magic, beauty) is implicit clothing," captured in the photography, then in the garments through which the designers a "written-garment," which responds to its speak to us about their feelings, in an eternal description in words, and "real-clothing," battle between industry, trends, art and cre which is the design that exists beyond the ation. lighting of the photography, fashion design, This book is a selection of individual the pose of the model and the language that worlds, the work of those designers who do builds it with words. not create fashion, but poems that clothe the Years later, this structural thinking was body, sometimes changing it and subverting transformed with postmodernism. It was then, its shape. Gudrun & Gudrun's universe of deli when Jacques Derrida proposed the decon cate wool, Heidi Ackerman's three-dimension struction, disarming our images and beliefs al sculptures, Boas Kristjimsson and George and uncovering the metaphorical construc Bezhanishvili's unintentional strength, color, tions accumulated within the concept. and youth, Barbara f Gongini's commitment, One of the writings of this second think Alejandra Quesada's fragile delicacy, the in er is entitled "Che cos'e poetry?" And in it comparable Walter Van Beirendonck's loyalty Derrida describes poetry as a hedgehog that to such an individual vision, who, in fact, uses may seem helpless but, on the alert, it is real the slogan "Skin Poets Unite" in his Read My ly powerful. Similarly, the poetic construction Skin collection ... And these are only a hand shows its different meanings. The hedgehog's ful of names of those who are not resigned to spines, whose tips point to the infinite, are be restricted by the market's limitations, but like the power of words that flow through the play, imagine and create simply because they heart, intimidate us and move us. cannot stop. Today, the fashion industry moves between The transgression of the volume, the per these two universes. Barthes' pillars put us in fection of the patterns, the beauty of what you front of an industry that sometimes may seem cannot categorize, the strength of the poetry frivolous, and the description of Derrida's po of fashion hastily infiltrates the pages of this etry brings us closer to the private worlds of book. the creators. In between lies the body, the The Poetry of Fashion Design 7 Fashion Designers www.i:?ristjansson-boas.com B6as Kristjansson is the Icelandic designer who gave life to 8045. He studied at the Academy of Arts in his native country and in Antwerp. His work is the result of different elements that come together in the world of fashion, from modeling and styling to photography and il lustration. His collections explore the color and the creative process, in which a garment emerges from the previous piece, linking each design in a generational chain. In his luxury sports wear collections, knitwear and radical cuts go hand in hand that draw inspiration from futur istic concepts. Kristjansson has presented his clothes in the men's fashion week in Paris and contin ues to explore the possibilities of fashion and collaborations with other disciplines from his homeland. 10 The Poetry of Fashion Design Pastel colors and a careful visual image that plays with the lines of garments complement the harmony of the Kristjansson collection.
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