Table Of Content

The Original Beauty Bible Unparalleled Information for Beautiful and Younger Skin at Any Age PAULA BEGOUN Beautypedia.com your ultimate Source for coSmetic product reviewS Beautypedia.com Thousands of precise, researched, and controversial reviews—all online in an easily searchable product database! Subscribe Today Subscribers have exclusive access to over 40,000 skin-care and makeup reviews from more than 250 lines plus complete ingredient lists for every skin-care product reviewed Free Email Updates Keep up with what’s new on Beautypedia.com by signing up for Paula’s FREE Beautypedia Bulletin The Best of the Best Access Paula’s lists of the best products or quickly find the product you’re searching for Real Time Updates New full line and individual product reviews added often, so you’ll be better informed than ever before! FREE Special Reports On a wide range of cosmetic topics, from the best inexpensive products to cosmetics myth-busting coSmeticScop.com Superior Skin-care & expert information FREE email Beauty Bulletins Sign up for Paula’s Beauty Bulletins and stay informed about what’s happening in the cosmetics industry. Free product reviews, intriguing special reports, “Dear Paula” Q&As, and more Shop Take a look at Paula’s state-of-the-art skin-care line. There are products designed for a broad range of needs and concerns, from acne to wrinkled, sun-damaged skin Learn Find extensive information on how to determine and manage your skin type, sensible solutions for everything from wrinkles to blemish-fighting, and ingredient updates! Read all about beauty facts and fiction, and pick up expert tips on how to apply makeup to your advantage! Best & Worst Products Every month, Paula reviews new products and awards a “best” and “worst” product. Find out if your favorite products meet the Cosmetic Cop’s strict criteria! Dear Paula Check out the current “Dear Paula” Question of the Month for the latest pressing skin-care questions and beauty concerns. Better yet, submit your beauty questions and concerns to Paula today! Contributor: Bryan Barron Editors: Sigrid Asmus, John Hopper, Stephanie Parsons, Seanna Browder Art Direction, Cover Design, and Typography: Erin Smith Bloom Printing: RR Donnelley Research Assistant: Bryan Barron Copyright © 2009, Paula Begoun Publisher: Beginning Press 1030 SW 34th Street, Suite A Renton, Washington 98057 1st Edition Printing: March 2009 ISBN: 978-1-877988-33-2 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, without written permission from Beginning Press and/or Paula Begoun, except for the inclusion of quotations in a review. This book is distributed to the United States book trade by: Publishers Group West 1700 Fourth Street Berkeley, California 94710 (510) 528-1444 To the Canadian book trade by: Raincoast Books Limited 9050 Shaughnessy Street Vancouver, B.C., V6P 6E5 Canada (604) 633-5714 To the Australian book trade by: Peribo Pty Limited 58 Beaumont Road Mount Kuring-Gai NSW 2080 Australia 02 9457 0011 taBle of contentS chapter one— the Beauty induStry: univerSally crazy Why a New Edition ................................................................................................1 All Over the World .................................................................................................1 Let Me Introduce Myself … ...................................................................................2 A Personal Quest ....................................................................................................3 A Personal Beauty Miracle ......................................................................................4 The Best Ingredients for Skin? ................................................................................4 Struggling with the Cosmetics Industry ..................................................................5 Cosmetics Chemistry—An Art and a Science .........................................................6 chapter two—underStanding the hype Why Cosmetics Companies Can Mislead Legally ...................................................9 The Business of Claim Substantiation—Our Study Shows ...................................11 A Perfect Example of How “Studies” Can Mislead ................................................13 Myth Busting: 30 Major Beauty Myths and the Real Facts ....................................14 Advertising Victims...............................................................................................32 Brand-Name Loyalty ............................................................................................33 Cosmeceuticals: Doctors Get in on the Act ...........................................................34 Why We Believe ...................................................................................................35 The 10 Beauty Commandments Everyone Should Know .....................................39 chapter three— fraudS & fearS Be Afraid, Be Very Afraid ......................................................................................41 Mineral Oil and Petrolatum ..................................................................................42 Parabens and Preservatives ....................................................................................42 Nanotechnology ...................................................................................................45 Oxygen for the Skin ..............................................................................................47 Propylene Glycol ..................................................................................................48 Phthalates .............................................................................................................49 Sodium Lauryl Sulfate ..........................................................................................50 Stem Cells in Skin-Care Products? ........................................................................52 Botanicals or All Natural? .....................................................................................53 Drinking Collagen to Fight Wrinkles? ...................................................................53 chapter four—organic coSmeticS do “natural” one Better Organic Cosmetics................................................................................................57 Organic Food’s Relation to Cosmetics...................................................................58 Green Chemistry Defined .....................................................................................58 The Organic Market: Full Steam (Distillation) Ahead! ..........................................59 Check the Labels for the Truth ..............................................................................60 Organic in Name Only? ........................................................................................60 Organic Outrage: The Industry Battles Itself .........................................................61 Other Organic & Pro Natural Groups ..................................................................63 Shopping for Organic Cosmetics ..........................................................................64 chapter five—Skin type? What Is Skin Type? ...............................................................................................67 What Influences Skin Type? ..................................................................................68 Will My Skin Type Change? .................................................................................68 Will I Ever Have “Normal” Skin? .........................................................................69 Combination Skin Is the Most Confusing Skin Type ............................................69 Unseen Skin Types Below the Surface ...................................................................70 Skin-Care Products Can Influence Skin Type and Not in a Good Way! .....................................................................................70 Everyone Has Sensitive Skin .................................................................................70 Mature Skin Folly: Skin Type Has Nothing to Do with Your Age .........................71 Does Skin Color or Ethnicity Affect Skin Care? ....................................................71 Determining Your Skin Type ................................................................................72 chapter Six—Skin’S enemy: irritation and inflammation It Hurts Everyone .................................................................................................77 Inflamm-aging ......................................................................................................77 How to Be Gentle .................................................................................................78 Anti-Irritants and Anti-Inflammatories .................................................................80 Heat Is a Problem .................................................................................................81 Don’t Smoke .........................................................................................................81 Fragrance in Skin-Care Products ...........................................................................82 Allergic Reactions .................................................................................................84 Diet, Beauty Supplements, and Wrinkles ..............................................................84 chapter Seven—Sun SenSe and SenSiBility Getting Naked ......................................................................................................87 Understanding UV ...............................................................................................87 Suntanning Is Not Pretty ......................................................................................89 Sunscreen: Anti-Aging Friend or Foe? ...................................................................90 Vitamin D and Sun ..............................................................................................91 Does Sunscreen Inhibit Vitamin D Production? ...................................................91 Suntanning Machines ...........................................................................................92 Can Sunscreen Affect Skin Negatively? .................................................................93 Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide .......................................................................95 Sun Strategy ..........................................................................................................95 What About SPF? .................................................................................................96 UVA versus UVB ..................................................................................................96 Applying Sunscreen: How Much, When, and Where ............................................96 Water Resistant Not Waterproof ...........................................................................98 Sunburn ................................................................................................................98 Sun Risk from Using AHAs, BHA, or Tretinoin? ..................................................99 Why You May Still Get Tan When Using Sunscreen ...........................................100 How High Should You Go? ................................................................................100 SPF-Rated Clothing ...........................................................................................101 How Long Do Sunscreens Last? ..........................................................................101 Sun Protection for Different Skin Types ..............................................................101 Sunscreens for Oily Skin .....................................................................................102 For the Little Ones .............................................................................................103 The Art of Self-Tanning ......................................................................................104 Tanning Pills? .....................................................................................................107 Skin Cancer and Sun Damage ............................................................................108 Actinic Keratosis .................................................................................................110 After-Sun Care ....................................................................................................111 Buying Sunglasses ...............................................................................................112 chapter eight—Skin care & moiSturizerS What Is a Moisturizer? (The Answer Will Surprise You) ......................................113 What Every Skin Type Needs ..............................................................................113 Free-Radical Damage ..........................................................................................114 Antioxidants .......................................................................................................114 Skin-Identical Ingredients ...................................................................................115 Cell-Communicating Ingredients........................................................................116 Anti-Irritants ......................................................................................................120 Skin Is Permeable ................................................................................................121 There Is No Single Miracle Ingredient ................................................................121 What Are Serums, Treatments, Anti-Wrinkle Products, Etcetera For? .................122 Taking Care of Dry Skin .....................................................................................122 For Those with Normal to Oily Skin or Minimal Dryness ..................................123 Dry Underneath and Oily on Top .......................................................................123 Dry Patches of Skin ............................................................................................124 What About Eye Creams? ...................................................................................124 Is There a Difference Between a Daytime versus Nighttime Moisturizer? .....................................................................................125 chapter nine—every Skin type can Benefit from exfoliating Skin Should Exfoliate Naturally … ....................................................................127 What Happens When You Exfoliate ...................................................................127 Why Exfoliate .....................................................................................................128 AHAs versus BHA ..............................................................................................129 Scrubs versus AHAs and BHA ............................................................................129 How Do You Choose Which Exfoliant Is Best for You? .......................................130 How Do You Use AHAs or BHA?.......................................................................131 What About Cleansers with AHAs or BHA Ingredients? .....................................131 pH Sensitive AHA and BHA ..............................................................................131 AHA Imposters ...................................................................................................132 BHA Imposters ...................................................................................................133 What About Higher Concentrations of AHAs? ...................................................133 Can You Exfoliate Too Often? .............................................................................133 Polyhydroxy Acids ..............................................................................................134 Exfoliating Oily Skin ..........................................................................................135 Exfoliating Dry Skin ...........................................................................................135 Exfoliating Sun-Damaged Skin ...........................................................................136 chapter ten—Skin-care planning: going over the BaSicS Is Skin Care Rocket Science? ...............................................................................137 Going Over the Basics ........................................................................................138 Cleaning the Skin ...............................................................................................138 What Is the Best Cleanser? ..................................................................................138 What About Cleansers with “Active” Ingredients? ...............................................140 What About Bar Soap?........................................................................................141 Eye-Makeup Removers .......................................................................................143 Removing All Your Makeup Is Essential ..............................................................143 Washcloths versus Scrubs ....................................................................................144 Water Temperature Is Important! ........................................................................144 What Do Toners Tone? .......................................................................................144 Alcohol Is Always a Problem for Skin ..................................................................145 Exfoliants ............................................................................................................146 Retinoids (Retinol, Retin-A, Differin, and Tazorac) ............................................147 Sunscreen ............................................................................................................148 Moisturizers (They Aren’t What You Think They Are) ........................................148 Facial Masks .......................................................................................................149 chapter eleven—SolutionS for wrinkleS The Basics ...........................................................................................................151 Dry Skin Doesn’t Cause Wrinkles .......................................................................152 Why “Anti-Wrinkle” Creams Can’t Work Better Than Botox ..............................153 How Skin Ages and Wrinkles ..............................................................................155 Cellular Renewal and Repair ...............................................................................156 Sunscreen, Tretinoin, and Exfoliants—A Very Good Place to Start .....................156 chapter twelve—SolutionS for perimenopauSe & menopauSe The Basics ...........................................................................................................159 When Your Body Makes Less Estrogen ...............................................................159 Hormones for Wrinkles and Healing ..................................................................160 Hormone Replacement Therapy .........................................................................161 Topical Application of Progesterone and Estrogen ..............................................162 Skin-Care Options ..............................................................................................162 AHAs and BHA for Postmenopausal Women .....................................................163 Supplements for Hormonal Changes ..................................................................163 chapter thirteen—SolutionS for Skin lightening The Basics ...........................................................................................................165 Skin Lightening ..................................................................................................166 Cosmetic Industry Hype .....................................................................................167 Sunscreen ............................................................................................................167 Hydroquinone ....................................................................................................168 Tretinoin and Retinol .........................................................................................169 AHAs and BHA and Chemical Peels ...................................................................170 Kojic Acid ...........................................................................................................170 Azelaic Acid ........................................................................................................171 Arbutin ...............................................................................................................171 Other Alternatives ..............................................................................................172 Vitamin C ..........................................................................................................172 Laser and Light Treatments .................................................................................173 Laser ..............................................................................................................173 Intense Pulsed Light .......................................................................................174 Fractional Photothermolysis ...........................................................................174 Combination Treatments ....................................................................................174 chapter fourteen—SolutionS for dry Skin The Basics ...........................................................................................................175 Repairing the Problem ........................................................................................176 Understanding Dry Skin—It Isn’t About Water ..................................................176 Too Much Water Can Be a Problem ...................................................................177 Drinking Water ..................................................................................................178 Practical Guidelines for Dry Skin ........................................................................178 chapter fifteen—SolutionS for acne The Basics ...........................................................................................................179 Busting Acne Myths ............................................................................................180 What Causes Blemishes? .....................................................................................181 Why Me? ............................................................................................................183 You Can’t Zap Zits ..............................................................................................184 Or Can You Zap Zits? .........................................................................................184 What You Can Do ..............................................................................................186 Topical Options ..................................................................................................187 Systemic Options ................................................................................................187 Experiment .........................................................................................................187 What You Shouldn’t Do ......................................................................................187 When to See a Dermatologist .............................................................................189 What About Diet? ..............................................................................................189 Toothpaste for Acne? NOT .................................................................................190 Oil-Free Is a Bad Joke .........................................................................................190 Will It Make Me Break Out? ..............................................................................190 Blemish-Fighting Basics ......................................................................................192 Exfoliants: BHA versus AHA ..............................................................................193 Over-the-Counter Antibacterial Options ............................................................194 Prescription Antibacterials ..................................................................................195 Dapsone: The Latest Antibacterial Option ..........................................................195 Tea Tree Oil versus Benzoyl Peroxide ..................................................................196 Tretinoin for Blemishes .......................................................................................197 Differin ...............................................................................................................197 Azelaic Acid ........................................................................................................198 Oral Antibiotics ..................................................................................................198 Niacinamide and Nicotinic Acid for Acne ...........................................................199 Birth-Control Pills for Acne?...............................................................................200 Accutane: A Personal Saga ...................................................................................200 What Is Accutane—A Possible Cure? ..................................................................201 Accutane—Risky Stuff ........................................................................................202 Accutane Pregnancy Warnings Ignored ...............................................................203 Depression from Accutane ..................................................................................204 Handling the Side Effects of Accutane ................................................................205 Hormone Blockers for Acne? ..............................................................................206 Oral Supplements for Acne? ................................................................................207 Photodynamic Therapy .......................................................................................207 Chemical Peels ....................................................................................................208 Microdermabrasion.............................................................................................209 Sulfur ..................................................................................................................209 Removing Blemishes ...........................................................................................210 Pore Strips? .........................................................................................................210 You Still Need Sunscreen ....................................................................................211 chapter Sixteen—SolutionS for BlackheadS The Basics ...........................................................................................................213 Struggling with Blackheads and Large Pores ........................................................214 Empty, Enlarged Pores? .......................................................................................216 chapter Seventeen—SolutionS for roSacea The Basics ...........................................................................................................219 Another Problem ................................................................................................220 Rosacea ...............................................................................................................220 Types of Rosacea .................................................................................................221 What Causes Rosacea? ........................................................................................222 Rosacea or Acne? .................................................................................................222 Rosacea Can Affect the Eyes ..............................................................................223 Solutions for Rosacea ..........................................................................................223 Gentle Skin-Care Products .............................................................................223 Salicylic Acid ..................................................................................................224 Antioxidants ..................................................................................................224 Topical Antimicrobial Treatments ..................................................................224 Azelaic Acid ...................................................................................................225 Oral Antibiotics .............................................................................................225 Renova or Differin .........................................................................................226 Lifestyle Considerations .................................................................................226 Lasers and Light-Emitting Devices .................................................................226 chapter eighteen—SolutionS for pSoriaSiS The Basics ...........................................................................................................227 The Heartbreak of Psoriasis ................................................................................228 What Causes Psoriasis?........................................................................................228 Types of Psoriasis ................................................................................................228 Nail Psoriasis.......................................................................................................229 Skin Care ............................................................................................................229 Trial and Error ....................................................................................................230 The Sun ..............................................................................................................230 Prescription Only Treatments for Psoriasis ..........................................................231 Coal Tar .........................................................................................................231 Anthralin .......................................................................................................232 Vitamin D3 ...................................................................................................232 Topical Steroids/Cortisone .............................................................................232 Retinoids .......................................................................................................233 Salicylic Acid (BHA) ......................................................................................233 Argan Oil .......................................................................................................234 Methotrexate ..................................................................................................234 Cyclosporin ....................................................................................................234 Oral Forms of Vitamin A (Retinoids) .............................................................235 Etanercept and Infliximab ..............................................................................235 5-Fluorouracil ................................................................................................236 Elidel .............................................................................................................236 Combination Therapy ...................................................................................236 chapter nineteen—SolutionS for SeBorrhea and eczema The Basics ...........................................................................................................239 Seborrhea ............................................................................................................240 Eczema (Atopic Dermatitis) ................................................................................241 Solutions for Eczema—Atopic Dermatitis ..........................................................242 chapter twenty—SolutionS for cellulite Reality Only Hurts a Little .................................................................................245 What Causes Cellulite ........................................................................................247 Fat-Busting Lotions, Creams, and Extracts Galore ..............................................248 Agrimonia eupatoria leaf extract ......................................................................248 Aminophylline and Theophylline ...................................................................248 Atractyloydes lancea root extract ......................................................................249 Bupleurum falcatum extract ............................................................................249 Caffeine .........................................................................................................249 Carnitine .......................................................................................................250 Escin ..............................................................................................................250 AHAs and BHA .............................................................................................251 Ginkgo biloba leaf extract ...............................................................................251 Hesperidin .....................................................................................................251 Malva sylvestris extract ....................................................................................251 Panax ginseng root extract ...............................................................................252 Paullinia cupana seed extract ..........................................................................252 Pisum sativum ................................................................................................252 Plectranthus barbatus extract ...........................................................................252 Porphyridium cruentum extract .......................................................................252 Retinoids .......................................................................................................253 Ruscogenine ...................................................................................................253 Santalum album seed extract ..........................................................................253 Terminalia sericea extract ................................................................................253 Ulva lactuca extract ........................................................................................254 Uncaria tomentosa extract ...............................................................................254 Visnaga vera extract ........................................................................................254 Mesotherapy .......................................................................................................254 Endermologie .....................................................................................................255 Non-Ablative Lasers, Light Systems, and Radio Frequency .................................256 Electrical Muscle Stimulators and Iontophoresis Devices ....................................257 Body Wrapping...................................................................................................258 Skin Patches ........................................................................................................258 Liposuction .........................................................................................................259 chapter twenty one—SolutionS for woundS, ScarS, or Stretch markS The Basics ...........................................................................................................261 How Skin Heals ..................................................................................................261 What to Do When Your Skin Is Injured .............................................................262 After the Wound Has Healed ..............................................................................263 Vitamin E for Scars? ...........................................................................................264 Keloid and Hypertrophic Scarring ......................................................................265 Silicone Sheets for Keloidal Scarring ...................................................................265 Stretch Marks .....................................................................................................266 Needling .............................................................................................................267 Mederma ............................................................................................................268 What About Scars from Acne? ............................................................................269 chapter twenty two—SolutionS for allergy-prone Skin The Basics ...........................................................................................................271 What Is Happening? ...........................................................................................271 What Can You Be Allergic To? ............................................................................271 Hypoallergenic? ..................................................................................................272 What You Can Do ..............................................................................................272 chapter twenty three—Should you get a facial? What Does a Facial Do? ......................................................................................275 What Spa Services Make Sense? ..........................................................................276 Microdermabrasion.............................................................................................276 Lymph Drainage .................................................................................................277 Detoxing the Sham of Detoxing .........................................................................278 What Toxins Are Being Detoxed? ........................................................................279 Snake Oil at Its Best ............................................................................................279 Dermatologists in the Spa Business .....................................................................281 chapter twenty four—hair removal Way Too Much Hair ...........................................................................................283 Hair-Brained Ideas? ............................................................................................283 Depilatories ........................................................................................................284 Waxing ...............................................................................................................284 Sugaring .............................................................................................................285 Tweezing or Threading .......................................................................................285 Bleaching ............................................................................................................286 Electrolysis ..........................................................................................................286 Home Electrolysis ...............................................................................................287 Shaving ...............................................................................................................287 Laser Hair Removal ............................................................................................287 At-Home Lasers? Maybe! ....................................................................................288 Vaniqa ................................................................................................................289 Hair-Removal Warning! ......................................................................................290

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The Original Beauty Bible: Skin Care Facts for Ageless Beauty PDF

484 Pages·2009·2.3 MB·English
by  Paula Begoun
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Preview The Original Beauty Bible: Skin Care Facts for Ageless Beauty

The Original Beauty Bible Unparalleled Information for Beautiful and Younger Skin at Any Age PAULA BEGOUN Beautypedia.com your ultimate Source for coSmetic product reviewS Beautypedia.com Thousands of precise, researched, and controversial reviews—all online in an easily searchable product database! Subscribe Today Subscribers have exclusive access to over 40,000 skin-care and makeup reviews from more than 250 lines plus complete ingredient lists for every skin-care product reviewed Free Email Updates Keep up with what’s new on Beautypedia.com by signing up for Paula’s FREE Beautypedia Bulletin The Best of the Best Access Paula’s lists of the best products or quickly find the product you’re searching for Real Time Updates New full line and individual product reviews added often, so you’ll be better informed than ever before! FREE Special Reports On a wide range of cosmetic topics, from the best inexpensive products to cosmetics myth-busting coSmeticScop.com Superior Skin-care & expert information FREE email Beauty Bulletins Sign up for Paula’s Beauty Bulletins and stay informed about what’s happening in the cosmetics industry. Free product reviews, intriguing special reports, “Dear Paula” Q&As, and more Shop Take a look at Paula’s state-of-the-art skin-care line. There are products designed for a broad range of needs and concerns, from acne to wrinkled, sun-damaged skin Learn Find extensive information on how to determine and manage your skin type, sensible solutions for everything from wrinkles to blemish-fighting, and ingredient updates! Read all about beauty facts and fiction, and pick up expert tips on how to apply makeup to your advantage! Best & Worst Products Every month, Paula reviews new products and awards a “best” and “worst” product. Find out if your favorite products meet the Cosmetic Cop’s strict criteria! Dear Paula Check out the current “Dear Paula” Question of the Month for the latest pressing skin-care questions and beauty concerns. Better yet, submit your beauty questions and concerns to Paula today! Contributor: Bryan Barron Editors: Sigrid Asmus, John Hopper, Stephanie Parsons, Seanna Browder Art Direction, Cover Design, and Typography: Erin Smith Bloom Printing: RR Donnelley Research Assistant: Bryan Barron Copyright © 2009, Paula Begoun Publisher: Beginning Press 1030 SW 34th Street, Suite A Renton, Washington 98057 1st Edition Printing: March 2009 ISBN: 978-1-877988-33-2 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, without written permission from Beginning Press and/or Paula Begoun, except for the inclusion of quotations in a review. This book is distributed to the United States book trade by: Publishers Group West 1700 Fourth Street Berkeley, California 94710 (510) 528-1444 To the Canadian book trade by: Raincoast Books Limited 9050 Shaughnessy Street Vancouver, B.C., V6P 6E5 Canada (604) 633-5714 To the Australian book trade by: Peribo Pty Limited 58 Beaumont Road Mount Kuring-Gai NSW 2080 Australia 02 9457 0011 taBle of contentS chapter one— the Beauty induStry: univerSally crazy Why a New Edition ................................................................................................1 All Over the World .................................................................................................1 Let Me Introduce Myself … ...................................................................................2 A Personal Quest ....................................................................................................3 A Personal Beauty Miracle ......................................................................................4 The Best Ingredients for Skin? ................................................................................4 Struggling with the Cosmetics Industry ..................................................................5 Cosmetics Chemistry—An Art and a Science .........................................................6 chapter two—underStanding the hype Why Cosmetics Companies Can Mislead Legally ...................................................9 The Business of Claim Substantiation—Our Study Shows ...................................11 A Perfect Example of How “Studies” Can Mislead ................................................13 Myth Busting: 30 Major Beauty Myths and the Real Facts ....................................14 Advertising Victims...............................................................................................32 Brand-Name Loyalty ............................................................................................33 Cosmeceuticals: Doctors Get in on the Act ...........................................................34 Why We Believe ...................................................................................................35 The 10 Beauty Commandments Everyone Should Know .....................................39 chapter three— fraudS & fearS Be Afraid, Be Very Afraid ......................................................................................41 Mineral Oil and Petrolatum ..................................................................................42 Parabens and Preservatives ....................................................................................42 Nanotechnology ...................................................................................................45 Oxygen for the Skin ..............................................................................................47 Propylene Glycol ..................................................................................................48 Phthalates .............................................................................................................49 Sodium Lauryl Sulfate ..........................................................................................50 Stem Cells in Skin-Care Products? ........................................................................52 Botanicals or All Natural? .....................................................................................53 Drinking Collagen to Fight Wrinkles? ...................................................................53 chapter four—organic coSmeticS do “natural” one Better Organic Cosmetics................................................................................................57 Organic Food’s Relation to Cosmetics...................................................................58 Green Chemistry Defined .....................................................................................58 The Organic Market: Full Steam (Distillation) Ahead! ..........................................59 Check the Labels for the Truth ..............................................................................60 Organic in Name Only? ........................................................................................60 Organic Outrage: The Industry Battles Itself .........................................................61 Other Organic & Pro Natural Groups ..................................................................63 Shopping for Organic Cosmetics ..........................................................................64 chapter five—Skin type? What Is Skin Type? ...............................................................................................67 What Influences Skin Type? ..................................................................................68 Will My Skin Type Change? .................................................................................68 Will I Ever Have “Normal” Skin? .........................................................................69 Combination Skin Is the Most Confusing Skin Type ............................................69 Unseen Skin Types Below the Surface ...................................................................70 Skin-Care Products Can Influence Skin Type and Not in a Good Way! .....................................................................................70 Everyone Has Sensitive Skin .................................................................................70 Mature Skin Folly: Skin Type Has Nothing to Do with Your Age .........................71 Does Skin Color or Ethnicity Affect Skin Care? ....................................................71 Determining Your Skin Type ................................................................................72 chapter Six—Skin’S enemy: irritation and inflammation It Hurts Everyone .................................................................................................77 Inflamm-aging ......................................................................................................77 How to Be Gentle .................................................................................................78 Anti-Irritants and Anti-Inflammatories .................................................................80 Heat Is a Problem .................................................................................................81 Don’t Smoke .........................................................................................................81 Fragrance in Skin-Care Products ...........................................................................82 Allergic Reactions .................................................................................................84 Diet, Beauty Supplements, and Wrinkles ..............................................................84 chapter Seven—Sun SenSe and SenSiBility Getting Naked ......................................................................................................87 Understanding UV ...............................................................................................87 Suntanning Is Not Pretty ......................................................................................89 Sunscreen: Anti-Aging Friend or Foe? ...................................................................90 Vitamin D and Sun ..............................................................................................91 Does Sunscreen Inhibit Vitamin D Production? ...................................................91 Suntanning Machines ...........................................................................................92 Can Sunscreen Affect Skin Negatively? .................................................................93 Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide .......................................................................95 Sun Strategy ..........................................................................................................95 What About SPF? .................................................................................................96 UVA versus UVB ..................................................................................................96 Applying Sunscreen: How Much, When, and Where ............................................96 Water Resistant Not Waterproof ...........................................................................98 Sunburn ................................................................................................................98 Sun Risk from Using AHAs, BHA, or Tretinoin? ..................................................99 Why You May Still Get Tan When Using Sunscreen ...........................................100 How High Should You Go? ................................................................................100 SPF-Rated Clothing ...........................................................................................101 How Long Do Sunscreens Last? ..........................................................................101 Sun Protection for Different Skin Types ..............................................................101 Sunscreens for Oily Skin .....................................................................................102 For the Little Ones .............................................................................................103 The Art of Self-Tanning ......................................................................................104 Tanning Pills? .....................................................................................................107 Skin Cancer and Sun Damage ............................................................................108 Actinic Keratosis .................................................................................................110 After-Sun Care ....................................................................................................111 Buying Sunglasses ...............................................................................................112 chapter eight—Skin care & moiSturizerS What Is a Moisturizer? (The Answer Will Surprise You) ......................................113 What Every Skin Type Needs ..............................................................................113 Free-Radical Damage ..........................................................................................114 Antioxidants .......................................................................................................114 Skin-Identical Ingredients ...................................................................................115 Cell-Communicating Ingredients........................................................................116 Anti-Irritants ......................................................................................................120 Skin Is Permeable ................................................................................................121 There Is No Single Miracle Ingredient ................................................................121 What Are Serums, Treatments, Anti-Wrinkle Products, Etcetera For? .................122 Taking Care of Dry Skin .....................................................................................122 For Those with Normal to Oily Skin or Minimal Dryness ..................................123 Dry Underneath and Oily on Top .......................................................................123 Dry Patches of Skin ............................................................................................124 What About Eye Creams? ...................................................................................124 Is There a Difference Between a Daytime versus Nighttime Moisturizer? .....................................................................................125 chapter nine—every Skin type can Benefit from exfoliating Skin Should Exfoliate Naturally … ....................................................................127 What Happens When You Exfoliate ...................................................................127 Why Exfoliate .....................................................................................................128 AHAs versus BHA ..............................................................................................129 Scrubs versus AHAs and BHA ............................................................................129 How Do You Choose Which Exfoliant Is Best for You? .......................................130 How Do You Use AHAs or BHA?.......................................................................131 What About Cleansers with AHAs or BHA Ingredients? .....................................131 pH Sensitive AHA and BHA ..............................................................................131 AHA Imposters ...................................................................................................132 BHA Imposters ...................................................................................................133 What About Higher Concentrations of AHAs? ...................................................133 Can You Exfoliate Too Often? .............................................................................133 Polyhydroxy Acids ..............................................................................................134 Exfoliating Oily Skin ..........................................................................................135 Exfoliating Dry Skin ...........................................................................................135 Exfoliating Sun-Damaged Skin ...........................................................................136 chapter ten—Skin-care planning: going over the BaSicS Is Skin Care Rocket Science? ...............................................................................137 Going Over the Basics ........................................................................................138 Cleaning the Skin ...............................................................................................138 What Is the Best Cleanser? ..................................................................................138 What About Cleansers with “Active” Ingredients? ...............................................140 What About Bar Soap?........................................................................................141 Eye-Makeup Removers .......................................................................................143 Removing All Your Makeup Is Essential ..............................................................143 Washcloths versus Scrubs ....................................................................................144 Water Temperature Is Important! ........................................................................144 What Do Toners Tone? .......................................................................................144 Alcohol Is Always a Problem for Skin ..................................................................145 Exfoliants ............................................................................................................146 Retinoids (Retinol, Retin-A, Differin, and Tazorac) ............................................147 Sunscreen ............................................................................................................148 Moisturizers (They Aren’t What You Think They Are) ........................................148 Facial Masks .......................................................................................................149 chapter eleven—SolutionS for wrinkleS The Basics ...........................................................................................................151 Dry Skin Doesn’t Cause Wrinkles .......................................................................152 Why “Anti-Wrinkle” Creams Can’t Work Better Than Botox ..............................153 How Skin Ages and Wrinkles ..............................................................................155 Cellular Renewal and Repair ...............................................................................156 Sunscreen, Tretinoin, and Exfoliants—A Very Good Place to Start .....................156 chapter twelve—SolutionS for perimenopauSe & menopauSe The Basics ...........................................................................................................159 When Your Body Makes Less Estrogen ...............................................................159 Hormones for Wrinkles and Healing ..................................................................160 Hormone Replacement Therapy .........................................................................161 Topical Application of Progesterone and Estrogen ..............................................162 Skin-Care Options ..............................................................................................162 AHAs and BHA for Postmenopausal Women .....................................................163 Supplements for Hormonal Changes ..................................................................163 chapter thirteen—SolutionS for Skin lightening The Basics ...........................................................................................................165 Skin Lightening ..................................................................................................166 Cosmetic Industry Hype .....................................................................................167 Sunscreen ............................................................................................................167 Hydroquinone ....................................................................................................168 Tretinoin and Retinol .........................................................................................169 AHAs and BHA and Chemical Peels ...................................................................170 Kojic Acid ...........................................................................................................170 Azelaic Acid ........................................................................................................171 Arbutin ...............................................................................................................171 Other Alternatives ..............................................................................................172 Vitamin C ..........................................................................................................172 Laser and Light Treatments .................................................................................173 Laser ..............................................................................................................173 Intense Pulsed Light .......................................................................................174 Fractional Photothermolysis ...........................................................................174 Combination Treatments ....................................................................................174 chapter fourteen—SolutionS for dry Skin The Basics ...........................................................................................................175 Repairing the Problem ........................................................................................176 Understanding Dry Skin—It Isn’t About Water ..................................................176 Too Much Water Can Be a Problem ...................................................................177 Drinking Water ..................................................................................................178 Practical Guidelines for Dry Skin ........................................................................178 chapter fifteen—SolutionS for acne The Basics ...........................................................................................................179 Busting Acne Myths ............................................................................................180 What Causes Blemishes? .....................................................................................181 Why Me? ............................................................................................................183 You Can’t Zap Zits ..............................................................................................184 Or Can You Zap Zits? .........................................................................................184 What You Can Do ..............................................................................................186 Topical Options ..................................................................................................187 Systemic Options ................................................................................................187 Experiment .........................................................................................................187 What You Shouldn’t Do ......................................................................................187 When to See a Dermatologist .............................................................................189 What About Diet? ..............................................................................................189 Toothpaste for Acne? NOT .................................................................................190 Oil-Free Is a Bad Joke .........................................................................................190 Will It Make Me Break Out? ..............................................................................190 Blemish-Fighting Basics ......................................................................................192 Exfoliants: BHA versus AHA ..............................................................................193 Over-the-Counter Antibacterial Options ............................................................194 Prescription Antibacterials ..................................................................................195 Dapsone: The Latest Antibacterial Option ..........................................................195 Tea Tree Oil versus Benzoyl Peroxide ..................................................................196 Tretinoin for Blemishes .......................................................................................197 Differin ...............................................................................................................197 Azelaic Acid ........................................................................................................198 Oral Antibiotics ..................................................................................................198 Niacinamide and Nicotinic Acid for Acne ...........................................................199 Birth-Control Pills for Acne?...............................................................................200 Accutane: A Personal Saga ...................................................................................200 What Is Accutane—A Possible Cure? ..................................................................201 Accutane—Risky Stuff ........................................................................................202 Accutane Pregnancy Warnings Ignored ...............................................................203 Depression from Accutane ..................................................................................204 Handling the Side Effects of Accutane ................................................................205 Hormone Blockers for Acne? ..............................................................................206 Oral Supplements for Acne? ................................................................................207 Photodynamic Therapy .......................................................................................207 Chemical Peels ....................................................................................................208 Microdermabrasion.............................................................................................209 Sulfur ..................................................................................................................209 Removing Blemishes ...........................................................................................210 Pore Strips? .........................................................................................................210 You Still Need Sunscreen ....................................................................................211 chapter Sixteen—SolutionS for BlackheadS The Basics ...........................................................................................................213 Struggling with Blackheads and Large Pores ........................................................214 Empty, Enlarged Pores? .......................................................................................216 chapter Seventeen—SolutionS for roSacea The Basics ...........................................................................................................219 Another Problem ................................................................................................220 Rosacea ...............................................................................................................220 Types of Rosacea .................................................................................................221 What Causes Rosacea? ........................................................................................222 Rosacea or Acne? .................................................................................................222 Rosacea Can Affect the Eyes ..............................................................................223 Solutions for Rosacea ..........................................................................................223 Gentle Skin-Care Products .............................................................................223 Salicylic Acid ..................................................................................................224 Antioxidants ..................................................................................................224 Topical Antimicrobial Treatments ..................................................................224 Azelaic Acid ...................................................................................................225 Oral Antibiotics .............................................................................................225 Renova or Differin .........................................................................................226 Lifestyle Considerations .................................................................................226 Lasers and Light-Emitting Devices .................................................................226 chapter eighteen—SolutionS for pSoriaSiS The Basics ...........................................................................................................227 The Heartbreak of Psoriasis ................................................................................228 What Causes Psoriasis?........................................................................................228 Types of Psoriasis ................................................................................................228 Nail Psoriasis.......................................................................................................229 Skin Care ............................................................................................................229 Trial and Error ....................................................................................................230 The Sun ..............................................................................................................230 Prescription Only Treatments for Psoriasis ..........................................................231 Coal Tar .........................................................................................................231 Anthralin .......................................................................................................232 Vitamin D3 ...................................................................................................232 Topical Steroids/Cortisone .............................................................................232 Retinoids .......................................................................................................233 Salicylic Acid (BHA) ......................................................................................233 Argan Oil .......................................................................................................234 Methotrexate ..................................................................................................234 Cyclosporin ....................................................................................................234 Oral Forms of Vitamin A (Retinoids) .............................................................235 Etanercept and Infliximab ..............................................................................235 5-Fluorouracil ................................................................................................236 Elidel .............................................................................................................236 Combination Therapy ...................................................................................236 chapter nineteen—SolutionS for SeBorrhea and eczema The Basics ...........................................................................................................239 Seborrhea ............................................................................................................240 Eczema (Atopic Dermatitis) ................................................................................241 Solutions for Eczema—Atopic Dermatitis ..........................................................242 chapter twenty—SolutionS for cellulite Reality Only Hurts a Little .................................................................................245 What Causes Cellulite ........................................................................................247 Fat-Busting Lotions, Creams, and Extracts Galore ..............................................248 Agrimonia eupatoria leaf extract ......................................................................248 Aminophylline and Theophylline ...................................................................248 Atractyloydes lancea root extract ......................................................................249 Bupleurum falcatum extract ............................................................................249 Caffeine .........................................................................................................249 Carnitine .......................................................................................................250 Escin ..............................................................................................................250 AHAs and BHA .............................................................................................251 Ginkgo biloba leaf extract ...............................................................................251 Hesperidin .....................................................................................................251 Malva sylvestris extract ....................................................................................251 Panax ginseng root extract ...............................................................................252 Paullinia cupana seed extract ..........................................................................252 Pisum sativum ................................................................................................252 Plectranthus barbatus extract ...........................................................................252 Porphyridium cruentum extract .......................................................................252 Retinoids .......................................................................................................253 Ruscogenine ...................................................................................................253 Santalum album seed extract ..........................................................................253 Terminalia sericea extract ................................................................................253 Ulva lactuca extract ........................................................................................254 Uncaria tomentosa extract ...............................................................................254 Visnaga vera extract ........................................................................................254 Mesotherapy .......................................................................................................254 Endermologie .....................................................................................................255 Non-Ablative Lasers, Light Systems, and Radio Frequency .................................256 Electrical Muscle Stimulators and Iontophoresis Devices ....................................257 Body Wrapping...................................................................................................258 Skin Patches ........................................................................................................258 Liposuction .........................................................................................................259 chapter twenty one—SolutionS for woundS, ScarS, or Stretch markS The Basics ...........................................................................................................261 How Skin Heals ..................................................................................................261 What to Do When Your Skin Is Injured .............................................................262 After the Wound Has Healed ..............................................................................263 Vitamin E for Scars? ...........................................................................................264 Keloid and Hypertrophic Scarring ......................................................................265 Silicone Sheets for Keloidal Scarring ...................................................................265 Stretch Marks .....................................................................................................266 Needling .............................................................................................................267 Mederma ............................................................................................................268 What About Scars from Acne? ............................................................................269 chapter twenty two—SolutionS for allergy-prone Skin The Basics ...........................................................................................................271 What Is Happening? ...........................................................................................271 What Can You Be Allergic To? ............................................................................271 Hypoallergenic? ..................................................................................................272 What You Can Do ..............................................................................................272 chapter twenty three—Should you get a facial? What Does a Facial Do? ......................................................................................275 What Spa Services Make Sense? ..........................................................................276 Microdermabrasion.............................................................................................276 Lymph Drainage .................................................................................................277 Detoxing the Sham of Detoxing .........................................................................278 What Toxins Are Being Detoxed? ........................................................................279 Snake Oil at Its Best ............................................................................................279 Dermatologists in the Spa Business .....................................................................281 chapter twenty four—hair removal Way Too Much Hair ...........................................................................................283 Hair-Brained Ideas? ............................................................................................283 Depilatories ........................................................................................................284 Waxing ...............................................................................................................284 Sugaring .............................................................................................................285 Tweezing or Threading .......................................................................................285 Bleaching ............................................................................................................286 Electrolysis ..........................................................................................................286 Home Electrolysis ...............................................................................................287 Shaving ...............................................................................................................287 Laser Hair Removal ............................................................................................287 At-Home Lasers? Maybe! ....................................................................................288 Vaniqa ................................................................................................................289 Hair-Removal Warning! ......................................................................................290

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