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The Original Beauty Bible- Skin Care Facts for Ageless Beauty PDF

484 Pages·2009·2.47 MB·English
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Preview The Original Beauty Bible- Skin Care Facts for Ageless Beauty

The Original Beauty Bible Unparalleled Information for Beautiful and Younger Skin at Any Age PAULA BEGOUN Beautypedia.com your ultimate Source for coSmetic product reviewS The Best of the Best Free Email Updates Subscribe Today Access Paula’s lists of the best Keep up with what’s new on Subscribers have exclusive access to over products or quickly find the Beautypedia.com by signing up for 40,000 skin-care and makeup reviews from product you’re searching for Paula’s FREE Beautypedia Bulletin more than 250 lines plus complete ingredient lists for every skin-care product reviewed Beautypedia.com Real Time Updates FREE Special Reports Thousands of precise, researched, New full line and individual On a wide range of cosmetic topics, and controversial reviews—all online in product reviews added from the best inexpensive products an easily searchable product database! often, so you’ll be better to cosmetics myth-busting informed than ever before! coSmeticScop.com Superior Skin-care & expert information FREE email Beauty Bulletins Shop Sign up for Paula’s Beauty Bulletins and stay Take a look at Paula’s state-of-the-art informed about what’s happening in the cosmetics skin-care line. There are products designed industry. Free product reviews, intriguing special for a broad range of needs and concerns, reports, “Dear Paula” Q&As, and more from acne to wrinkled, sun-damaged skin Learn Best & Worst Products Dear Paula Find extensive information on how Every month, Paula reviews new products Check out the current “Dear Paula” to determine and manage your skin and awards a “best” and “worst” product. Question of the Month for the latest type, sensible solutions for everything Find out if your favorite products meet the pressing skin-care questions and beauty from wrinkles to blemish-fighting, and Cosmetic Cop’s strict criteria! concerns. Better yet, submit your beauty ingredient updates! Read all about beauty questions and concerns to Paula today! facts and fiction, and pick up expert tips on how to apply makeup to your advantage! Contributor: Bryan Barron Editors: Sigrid Asmus, John Hopper, Stephanie Parsons, Seanna Browder Art Direction, Cover Design, and Typography: Erin Smith Bloom Printing: RR Donnelley Research Assistant: Bryan Barron Copyright © 2009, Paula Begoun Publisher: Beginning Press 1030 SW 34th Street, Suite A Renton, Washington 98057 1st Edition Printing: March 2009 ISBN: 978-1-877988-33-2 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, without written permission from Beginning Press and/or Paula Begoun, except for the inclusion of quotations in a review. This book is distributed to the United States book trade by: Publishers Group West 1700 Fourth Street Berkeley, California 94710 (510) 528-1444 To the Canadian book trade by: Raincoast Books Limited 9050 Shaughnessy Street Vancouver, B.C., V6P 6E5 Canada (604) 633-5714 To the Australian book trade by: Peribo Pty Limited 58 Beaumont Road Mount Kuring-Gai NSW 2080 Australia 02 9457 0011 taBle of contentS chapter one— the Beauty induStry: univerSally crazy Why a New Edition ................................................................................................1 All Over the World .................................................................................................1 Let Me Introduce Myself … ...................................................................................2 A Personal Quest ....................................................................................................3 A Personal Beauty Miracle ......................................................................................4 The Best Ingredients for Skin? ................................................................................4 Struggling with the Cosmetics Industry ..................................................................5 Cosmetics Chemistry—An Art and a Science .........................................................6 chapter two—underStanding the hype Why Cosmetics Companies Can Mislead Legally ...................................................9 The Business of Claim Substantiation—Our Study Shows ...................................11 A Perfect Example of How “Studies” Can Mislead ................................................13 Myth Busting: 30 Major Beauty Myths and the Real Facts ....................................14 Advertising Victims...............................................................................................32 Brand-Name Loyalty ............................................................................................33 Cosmeceuticals: Doctors Get in on the Act ...........................................................34 Why We Believe ...................................................................................................35 The 10 Beauty Commandments Everyone Should Know .....................................39 chapter three— fraudS & fearS Be Afraid, Be Very Afraid ......................................................................................41 Mineral Oil and Petrolatum ..................................................................................42 Parabens and Preservatives ....................................................................................42 Nanotechnology ...................................................................................................45 Oxygen for the Skin ..............................................................................................47 Propylene Glycol ..................................................................................................48 Phthalates .............................................................................................................49 Sodium Lauryl Sulfate ..........................................................................................50 Stem Cells in Skin-Care Products? ........................................................................52 Botanicals or All Natural? .....................................................................................53 Drinking Collagen to Fight Wrinkles? ...................................................................53 chapter four—organic coSmeticS do “natural” one Better Organic Cosmetics................................................................................................57 Organic Food’s Relation to Cosmetics...................................................................58 Green Chemistry Defined .....................................................................................58 The Organic Market: Full Steam (Distillation) Ahead! ..........................................59 Check the Labels for the Truth ..............................................................................60 Organic in Name Only? ........................................................................................60 Organic Outrage: The Industry Battles Itself .........................................................61 Other Organic & Pro Natural Groups ..................................................................63 Shopping for Organic Cosmetics ..........................................................................64 chapter five—Skin type? What Is Skin Type? ...............................................................................................67 What Influences Skin Type? ..................................................................................68 Will My Skin Type Change? .................................................................................68 Will I Ever Have “Normal” Skin? .........................................................................69 Combination Skin Is the Most Confusing Skin Type ............................................69 Unseen Skin Types Below the Surface ...................................................................70 Skin-Care Products Can Influence Skin Type and Not in a Good Way! .....................................................................................70 Everyone Has Sensitive Skin .................................................................................70 Mature Skin Folly: Skin Type Has Nothing to Do with Your Age .........................71 Does Skin Color or Ethnicity Affect Skin Care? ....................................................71 Determining Your Skin Type ................................................................................72 chapter Six—Skin’S enemy: irritation and inflammation It Hurts Everyone .................................................................................................77 Inflamm-aging ......................................................................................................77 How to Be Gentle .................................................................................................78 Anti-Irritants and Anti-Inflammatories .................................................................80 Heat Is a Problem .................................................................................................81 Don’t Smoke .........................................................................................................81 Fragrance in Skin-Care Products ...........................................................................82 Allergic Reactions .................................................................................................84 Diet, Beauty Supplements, and Wrinkles ..............................................................84 chapter Seven—Sun SenSe and SenSiBility Getting Naked ......................................................................................................87 Understanding UV ...............................................................................................87 Suntanning Is Not Pretty ......................................................................................89 Sunscreen: Anti-Aging Friend or Foe? ...................................................................90 Vitamin D and Sun ..............................................................................................91 Does Sunscreen Inhibit Vitamin D Production? ...................................................91 Suntanning Machines ...........................................................................................92 Can Sunscreen Affect Skin Negatively? .................................................................93 Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide .......................................................................95 Sun Strategy ..........................................................................................................95 What About SPF? .................................................................................................96 UVA versus UVB ..................................................................................................96 Applying Sunscreen: How Much, When, and Where ............................................96 Water Resistant Not Waterproof ...........................................................................98 Sunburn ................................................................................................................98 Sun Risk from Using AHAs, BHA, or Tretinoin? ..................................................99 Why You May Still Get Tan When Using Sunscreen ...........................................100 How High Should You Go? ................................................................................100 SPF-Rated Clothing ...........................................................................................101 How Long Do Sunscreens Last? ..........................................................................101 Sun Protection for Different Skin Types ..............................................................101 Sunscreens for Oily Skin .....................................................................................102 For the Little Ones .............................................................................................103 The Art of Self-Tanning ......................................................................................104 Tanning Pills? .....................................................................................................107 Skin Cancer and Sun Damage ............................................................................108 Actinic Keratosis .................................................................................................110 After-Sun Care ....................................................................................................111 Buying Sunglasses ...............................................................................................112 chapter eight—Skin care & moiSturizerS What Is a Moisturizer? (The Answer Will Surprise You) ......................................113 What Every Skin Type Needs ..............................................................................113 Free-Radical Damage ..........................................................................................114 Antioxidants .......................................................................................................114 Skin-Identical Ingredients ...................................................................................115 Cell-Communicating Ingredients........................................................................116 Anti-Irritants ......................................................................................................120 Skin Is Permeable ................................................................................................121 There Is No Single Miracle Ingredient ................................................................121 What Are Serums, Treatments, Anti-Wrinkle Products, Etcetera For? .................122 Taking Care of Dry Skin .....................................................................................122 For Those with Normal to Oily Skin or Minimal Dryness ..................................123 Dry Underneath and Oily on Top .......................................................................123 Dry Patches of Skin ............................................................................................124 What About Eye Creams? ...................................................................................124 Is There a Difference Between a Daytime versus Nighttime Moisturizer? .....................................................................................125 chapter nine—every Skin type can Benefit from exfoliating Skin Should Exfoliate Naturally … ....................................................................127 What Happens When You Exfoliate ...................................................................127 Why Exfoliate .....................................................................................................128 AHAs versus BHA ..............................................................................................129 Scrubs versus AHAs and BHA ............................................................................129 How Do You Choose Which Exfoliant Is Best for You? .......................................130 How Do You Use AHAs or BHA?.......................................................................131 What About Cleansers with AHAs or BHA Ingredients? .....................................131 pH Sensitive AHA and BHA ..............................................................................131 AHA Imposters ...................................................................................................132 BHA Imposters ...................................................................................................133 What About Higher Concentrations of AHAs? ...................................................133 Can You Exfoliate Too Often? .............................................................................133 Polyhydroxy Acids ..............................................................................................134 Exfoliating Oily Skin ..........................................................................................135 Exfoliating Dry Skin ...........................................................................................135 Exfoliating Sun-Damaged Skin ...........................................................................136 chapter ten—Skin-care planning: going over the BaSicS Is Skin Care Rocket Science? ...............................................................................137 Going Over the Basics ........................................................................................138 Cleaning the Skin ...............................................................................................138 What Is the Best Cleanser? ..................................................................................138 What About Cleansers with “Active” Ingredients? ...............................................140 What About Bar Soap?........................................................................................141 Eye-Makeup Removers .......................................................................................143 Removing All Your Makeup Is Essential ..............................................................143 Washcloths versus Scrubs ....................................................................................144 Water Temperature Is Important! ........................................................................144 What Do Toners Tone? .......................................................................................144 Alcohol Is Always a Problem for Skin ..................................................................145 Exfoliants ............................................................................................................146 Retinoids (Retinol, Retin-A, Differin, and Tazorac) ............................................147 Sunscreen ............................................................................................................148 Moisturizers (They Aren’t What You Think They Are) ........................................148 Facial Masks .......................................................................................................149 chapter eleven—SolutionS for wrinkleS The Basics ...........................................................................................................151 Dry Skin Doesn’t Cause Wrinkles .......................................................................152 Why “Anti-Wrinkle” Creams Can’t Work Better Than Botox ..............................153 How Skin Ages and Wrinkles ..............................................................................155 Cellular Renewal and Repair ...............................................................................156 Sunscreen, Tretinoin, and Exfoliants—A Very Good Place to Start .....................156 chapter twelve—SolutionS for perimenopauSe & menopauSe The Basics ...........................................................................................................159 When Your Body Makes Less Estrogen ...............................................................159 Hormones for Wrinkles and Healing ..................................................................160 Hormone Replacement Therapy .........................................................................161 Topical Application of Progesterone and Estrogen ..............................................162 Skin-Care Options ..............................................................................................162 AHAs and BHA for Postmenopausal Women .....................................................163 Supplements for Hormonal Changes ..................................................................163 chapter thirteen—SolutionS for Skin lightening The Basics ...........................................................................................................165 Skin Lightening ..................................................................................................166 Cosmetic Industry Hype .....................................................................................167 Sunscreen ............................................................................................................167 Hydroquinone ....................................................................................................168 Tretinoin and Retinol .........................................................................................169 AHAs and BHA and Chemical Peels ...................................................................170 Kojic Acid ...........................................................................................................170 Azelaic Acid ........................................................................................................171 Arbutin ...............................................................................................................171 Other Alternatives ..............................................................................................172 Vitamin C ..........................................................................................................172 Laser and Light Treatments .................................................................................173 Laser ..............................................................................................................173 Intense Pulsed Light .......................................................................................174 Fractional Photothermolysis ...........................................................................174 Combination Treatments ....................................................................................174 chapter fourteen—SolutionS for dry Skin The Basics ...........................................................................................................175 Repairing the Problem ........................................................................................176 Understanding Dry Skin—It Isn’t About Water ..................................................176 Too Much Water Can Be a Problem ...................................................................177 Drinking Water ..................................................................................................178 Practical Guidelines for Dry Skin ........................................................................178 chapter fifteen—SolutionS for acne The Basics ...........................................................................................................179 Busting Acne Myths ............................................................................................180

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Most books are stored in the elastic cloud where traffic is expensive. For this reason, we have a limit on daily download.