The Original Beauty Bible- Skin Care Facts for Ageless Beauty

484 Pages·2009·2.47 MB·English

by  Begoun Paula

The

Original
Beauty
Bible
Unparalleled Information for
Beautiful and Younger Skin
at Any Age
PAULA BEGOUN
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Contributor: Bryan Barron
Editors: Sigrid Asmus, John Hopper, Stephanie Parsons, Seanna Browder
Art Direction, Cover Design, and Typography: Erin Smith Bloom
Printing: RR Donnelley
Research Assistant: Bryan Barron
Copyright © 2009, Paula Begoun
Publisher: Beginning Press
1030 SW 34th Street, Suite A
Renton, Washington 98057
1st Edition Printing: March 2009
ISBN: 978-1-877988-33-2
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form
or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any
information storage or retrieval system, without written permission from Beginning Press
and/or Paula Begoun, except for the inclusion of quotations in a review.
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To the Australian book trade by:
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02 9457 0011
taBle of contentS
chapter one—
the Beauty induStry: univerSally crazy
Why a New Edition ................................................................................................1
All Over the World .................................................................................................1
Let Me Introduce Myself … ...................................................................................2
A Personal Quest ....................................................................................................3
A Personal Beauty Miracle ......................................................................................4
The Best Ingredients for Skin? ................................................................................4
Struggling with the Cosmetics Industry ..................................................................5
Cosmetics Chemistry—An Art and a Science .........................................................6
chapter two—underStanding the hype
Why Cosmetics Companies Can Mislead Legally ...................................................9
The Business of Claim Substantiation—Our Study Shows ...................................11
A Perfect Example of How “Studies” Can Mislead ................................................13
Myth Busting: 30 Major Beauty Myths and the Real Facts ....................................14
Advertising Victims...............................................................................................32
Brand-Name Loyalty ............................................................................................33
Cosmeceuticals: Doctors Get in on the Act ...........................................................34
Why We Believe ...................................................................................................35
The 10 Beauty Commandments Everyone Should Know .....................................39
chapter three— fraudS & fearS
Be Afraid, Be Very Afraid ......................................................................................41
Mineral Oil and Petrolatum ..................................................................................42
Parabens and Preservatives ....................................................................................42
Nanotechnology ...................................................................................................45
Oxygen for the Skin ..............................................................................................47
Propylene Glycol ..................................................................................................48
Phthalates .............................................................................................................49
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate ..........................................................................................50
Stem Cells in Skin-Care Products? ........................................................................52
Botanicals or All Natural? .....................................................................................53
Drinking Collagen to Fight Wrinkles? ...................................................................53
chapter four—organic coSmeticS
do “natural” one Better
Organic Cosmetics................................................................................................57
Organic Food’s Relation to Cosmetics...................................................................58
Green Chemistry Defined .....................................................................................58
The Organic Market: Full Steam (Distillation) Ahead! ..........................................59
Check the Labels for the Truth ..............................................................................60
Organic in Name Only? ........................................................................................60
Organic Outrage: The Industry Battles Itself .........................................................61
Other Organic & Pro Natural Groups ..................................................................63
Shopping for Organic Cosmetics ..........................................................................64
chapter five—Skin type?
What Is Skin Type? ...............................................................................................67
What Influences Skin Type? ..................................................................................68
Will My Skin Type Change? .................................................................................68
Will I Ever Have “Normal” Skin? .........................................................................69
Combination Skin Is the Most Confusing Skin Type ............................................69
Unseen Skin Types Below the Surface ...................................................................70
Skin-Care Products Can Influence Skin Type
and Not in a Good Way! .....................................................................................70
Everyone Has Sensitive Skin .................................................................................70
Mature Skin Folly: Skin Type Has Nothing to Do with Your Age .........................71
Does Skin Color or Ethnicity Affect Skin Care? ....................................................71
Determining Your Skin Type ................................................................................72
chapter Six—Skin’S enemy: irritation
and inflammation
It Hurts Everyone .................................................................................................77
Inflamm-aging ......................................................................................................77
How to Be Gentle .................................................................................................78
Anti-Irritants and Anti-Inflammatories .................................................................80
Heat Is a Problem .................................................................................................81
Don’t Smoke .........................................................................................................81
Fragrance in Skin-Care Products ...........................................................................82
Allergic Reactions .................................................................................................84
Diet, Beauty Supplements, and Wrinkles ..............................................................84
chapter Seven—Sun SenSe and SenSiBility
Getting Naked ......................................................................................................87
Understanding UV ...............................................................................................87
Suntanning Is Not Pretty ......................................................................................89
Sunscreen: Anti-Aging Friend or Foe? ...................................................................90
Vitamin D and Sun ..............................................................................................91
Does Sunscreen Inhibit Vitamin D Production? ...................................................91
Suntanning Machines ...........................................................................................92
Can Sunscreen Affect Skin Negatively? .................................................................93
Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide .......................................................................95
Sun Strategy ..........................................................................................................95
What About SPF? .................................................................................................96
UVA versus UVB ..................................................................................................96
Applying Sunscreen: How Much, When, and Where ............................................96
Water Resistant Not Waterproof ...........................................................................98
Sunburn ................................................................................................................98
Sun Risk from Using AHAs, BHA, or Tretinoin? ..................................................99
Why You May Still Get Tan When Using Sunscreen ...........................................100
How High Should You Go? ................................................................................100
SPF-Rated Clothing ...........................................................................................101
How Long Do Sunscreens Last? ..........................................................................101
Sun Protection for Different Skin Types ..............................................................101
Sunscreens for Oily Skin .....................................................................................102
For the Little Ones .............................................................................................103
The Art of Self-Tanning ......................................................................................104
Tanning Pills? .....................................................................................................107
Skin Cancer and Sun Damage ............................................................................108
Actinic Keratosis .................................................................................................110
After-Sun Care ....................................................................................................111
Buying Sunglasses ...............................................................................................112
chapter eight—Skin care & moiSturizerS
What Is a Moisturizer? (The Answer Will Surprise You) ......................................113
What Every Skin Type Needs ..............................................................................113
Free-Radical Damage ..........................................................................................114
Antioxidants .......................................................................................................114
Skin-Identical Ingredients ...................................................................................115
Cell-Communicating Ingredients........................................................................116
Anti-Irritants ......................................................................................................120
Skin Is Permeable ................................................................................................121
There Is No Single Miracle Ingredient ................................................................121
What Are Serums, Treatments, Anti-Wrinkle Products, Etcetera For? .................122
Taking Care of Dry Skin .....................................................................................122
For Those with Normal to Oily Skin or Minimal Dryness ..................................123
Dry Underneath and Oily on Top .......................................................................123
Dry Patches of Skin ............................................................................................124
What About Eye Creams? ...................................................................................124
Is There a Difference Between a Daytime versus
Nighttime Moisturizer? .....................................................................................125
chapter nine—every Skin type can Benefit
from exfoliating
Skin Should Exfoliate Naturally … ....................................................................127
What Happens When You Exfoliate ...................................................................127
Why Exfoliate .....................................................................................................128
AHAs versus BHA ..............................................................................................129
Scrubs versus AHAs and BHA ............................................................................129
How Do You Choose Which Exfoliant Is Best for You? .......................................130
How Do You Use AHAs or BHA?.......................................................................131
What About Cleansers with AHAs or BHA Ingredients? .....................................131
pH Sensitive AHA and BHA ..............................................................................131
AHA Imposters ...................................................................................................132
BHA Imposters ...................................................................................................133
What About Higher Concentrations of AHAs? ...................................................133
Can You Exfoliate Too Often? .............................................................................133
Polyhydroxy Acids ..............................................................................................134
Exfoliating Oily Skin ..........................................................................................135
Exfoliating Dry Skin ...........................................................................................135
Exfoliating Sun-Damaged Skin ...........................................................................136
chapter ten—Skin-care planning:
going over the BaSicS
Is Skin Care Rocket Science? ...............................................................................137
Going Over the Basics ........................................................................................138
Cleaning the Skin ...............................................................................................138
What Is the Best Cleanser? ..................................................................................138
What About Cleansers with “Active” Ingredients? ...............................................140
What About Bar Soap?........................................................................................141
Eye-Makeup Removers .......................................................................................143
Removing All Your Makeup Is Essential ..............................................................143
Washcloths versus Scrubs ....................................................................................144
Water Temperature Is Important! ........................................................................144
What Do Toners Tone? .......................................................................................144
Alcohol Is Always a Problem for Skin ..................................................................145
Exfoliants ............................................................................................................146
Retinoids (Retinol, Retin-A, Differin, and Tazorac) ............................................147
Sunscreen ............................................................................................................148
Moisturizers (They Aren’t What You Think They Are) ........................................148
Facial Masks .......................................................................................................149
chapter eleven—SolutionS for wrinkleS
The Basics ...........................................................................................................151
Dry Skin Doesn’t Cause Wrinkles .......................................................................152
Why “Anti-Wrinkle” Creams Can’t Work Better Than Botox ..............................153
How Skin Ages and Wrinkles ..............................................................................155
Cellular Renewal and Repair ...............................................................................156
Sunscreen, Tretinoin, and Exfoliants—A Very Good Place to Start .....................156
chapter twelve—SolutionS for
perimenopauSe & menopauSe
The Basics ...........................................................................................................159
When Your Body Makes Less Estrogen ...............................................................159
Hormones for Wrinkles and Healing ..................................................................160
Hormone Replacement Therapy .........................................................................161
Topical Application of Progesterone and Estrogen ..............................................162
Skin-Care Options ..............................................................................................162
AHAs and BHA for Postmenopausal Women .....................................................163
Supplements for Hormonal Changes ..................................................................163
chapter thirteen—SolutionS for Skin lightening
The Basics ...........................................................................................................165
Skin Lightening ..................................................................................................166
Cosmetic Industry Hype .....................................................................................167
Sunscreen ............................................................................................................167
Hydroquinone ....................................................................................................168
Tretinoin and Retinol .........................................................................................169
AHAs and BHA and Chemical Peels ...................................................................170
Kojic Acid ...........................................................................................................170
Azelaic Acid ........................................................................................................171
Arbutin ...............................................................................................................171
Other Alternatives ..............................................................................................172
Vitamin C ..........................................................................................................172
Laser and Light Treatments .................................................................................173
Laser ..............................................................................................................173
Intense Pulsed Light .......................................................................................174
Fractional Photothermolysis ...........................................................................174
Combination Treatments ....................................................................................174
chapter fourteen—SolutionS for dry Skin
The Basics ...........................................................................................................175
Repairing the Problem ........................................................................................176
Understanding Dry Skin—It Isn’t About Water ..................................................176
Too Much Water Can Be a Problem ...................................................................177
Drinking Water ..................................................................................................178
Practical Guidelines for Dry Skin ........................................................................178
chapter fifteen—SolutionS for acne
The Basics ...........................................................................................................179
Busting Acne Myths ............................................................................................180