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The , 1n FOOD HISTORY $32.50 A symbol of peace, strength, and nourishment, the olive tree has been imbued with a sense of history, place, and ' . charm since its earliest cultivation in the ancient civi lizations of the Mediterranean. From the first Spanish ships to touch California's shores to the rise of a thriving industry with hundreds of olive growers, canners, and The Olive in California oil makers, traces �he path of this sturdy, life-giving tree as it developed into a California " agricultural phenomenon. The olive was one of California's first significant crops, drawing interest from nurserymen and farmers across the state. It eventually became such a vital part of the state economy that the fledgling University of California devoted an extraordinary amount of its sci ence faculty's time to studying and promoting proper planting, harvesting, and canning techniques. Among the many achievements of which the olive industry can be proud is the discovery ofthe key to preventing bot ulism from canned goods. In the twentieth century, olive oil makers furthered the trend of producing high-quality, early pressed oils, while olive growers made great advances in how the trees themselves were planted. From San Diego-the location of the Spanish missionaries' first harvest of California olives-to Corning-the self-proclain1ed olive capital-the olive became a signature California crop, and a staple on the American table. The Olive in California brings all this history together for the first time and offers a wealth of infor mation sure to please history and food lovers alike. Meticulously researched and beautifully illustrated, this volume is a timely tribute to the California olive and its much-deserved place in history. This book has been endorsed by the Committee on Publications of the California Historical Society. THE OLIVE IN CALIFORNIA • , In CALIFORNIA HISTORY OF AN IMMIGRANT TREE Judith M.Taylor, M.D. Forew01d by D1: Kevin Stan; State Librarian of California 1@ TEN SPEED PRESS Berkeley Toronto � Copyright © 2000 by Judith M. Taylor Foreword copyright© 1999 by Kevin Starr " All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form, except brief excerpts for the purpose of review, without written permission of the publisher. 1€) Ten Speed Press PO Box 7123 Berkeley, California 94 707 www.tenspeed.com Distributed in Australia by Simon and Schuster Australia, in Canada by Ten Speed Press Canada, in New Zealand by Southern Publishers Group, in South Africa by Real Books, in Southeast Asia by Berkeley Books, and in the United Kingdom and Europe by Airlift Book Company. Cover Text Design by Jeff Puda & Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Taylor, Judith M. The olive in California : history of an immigrant tree I Judith M. Taylor. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references (pp. 276-295). ISBN 1-58008-131-2 1. Olive-California-History. 2. 0live industry and trade-California-History. 3. Adventive plants-California-History. I. Title. SB367.T29 2000 338. l '7463'09794-dc2 l 99-051302 First printing, 2000 Printed in Hong Kong 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10-03 02 01 00 To Irvin, who made it all possible. Contents FOREWORD IX .... PREFACE XV INTRODUCTION: The Olive in Ancient Times I 1. How the Olive Came to California II 2. Development of a Market and an Industry 29 3. Transition to the Modern Era 57 4. Why Olive Growers Changed to New Kinds of Trees 79 5. Nurseries and the Dissemination of Olive Trees 95 6. The Olive Oil Trade I25 7. Olive Processing Companies I55 8. Botulism I67 9. The California Olive Association I77 10. The University of California's Role in the 20I Development of the Olive Industry