The Most Beautiful Walk in the World A Pedestrian in Paris John Baxter Dedication FOR M -D arie ominique AND L , ouise WORTH WALKING FOR. Epigraph We cannot tarry here, We must march my darlings —WALT WHITMAN, PIONEERS, O PIONEERS Contents Dedication Epigraph Map Chapter 1 - To Walk the Walk Chapter 2 - ‘Walking Backwards for Christmas’ Chapter 3 - What a Man’s Got to Do Chapter 4 - Heat Chapter 5 - Two Geese a-Roasting Chapter 6 - The Hollywood Moment Chapter 7 - Hemingway’s Shoes Chapter 8 - The Importance of Being Ernest Chapter 9 - The Boulevardier Chapter 10 - The Murderer’s Garden Chapter 11 - Going Walkabout Chapter 12 - The Music of Walking Chapter 13 - Power Walks Chapter 14 - A Proposition at Les Editeurs Chapter 15 - The Freedom of the City Chapter 16 - The Man Who Knew Too Much Chapter 17 - The Opium Trail Chapter 18 - Postcards from Paris Chapter 19 - The Ground Beneath Our Feet Chapter 20 - Looking for Matisse Chapter 21 - Fish Story Chapter 22 - The Great La Coupole Roundup Chapter 23 - Liver Lover Chapter 24 - Paris When It Sizzled Chapter 25 - A Walk in the Earth Chapter 26 - Heaven and Hell Chapter 27 - Blue Hour Blues Chapter 28 - The Last of Montparnasse Chapter 29 - The Fuzz on the Peach Chapter 30 - To Market Chapter 31 - The Boulevard of Crime Chapter 32 - The Gates of Night Chapter 33 - A Little Place in the Nineteenth Chapter 34 - A Walk in Time Chapter 35 - Aussie in the Métro Chapter 36 - A Touch of Strange Chapter 37 - The Most Beautiful Walk in the World Appendix - Paris, Mode d’Emploi (Paris, A User’s Guide) About the Author Also by John Baxter Credits An Excerpt from The Perfect Meal First Catch Your Pansy Copyright Copyright About the Publisher Map CAFÉS AND RESTAURANTS 1. La Coupole 2. La Rotonde 3. Le Dôme 4. Les Deux Magots 5. Café Flore 6. Brasserie Lipp 7. The Ritz Hotel 8. Dingo Bar (now Auberge de Venise) 9. Harry’s Bar 10. Les Editeurs 11. Closerie des Lilas 12. Le Balzar 13. Au Lapin Agile 14. La Fée Verte MARKETS 15. Porte de Vanves (antiques) 16. Rue Brancion (old books) 17. Porte de Clignancourt (antiques) 18. Marché d’Aligre (food) ART AND PAINTING 19. Rue Mazarine 20. The Louvre 21. Le Grand Palais 22. Centre Pompidou SIGHTS 23. The Catacombs 24. The Passages (arcades) 25. Luxembourg Gardens 26. The Opera Garnier 27. La Santé Prison 28. Sacré-Coeur Cathedral 29. Notre Dame Cathedral 30. Cour de Commerce St. Andre 31. Place de la Bastille LITERARY SITES 32. Ernest Hemingway’s apartment (74 Rue Cardinal Lemoine) 33. Ernest Hemingway’s apartment (#6 Rue Ferou) 34. Gertrude Stein’s apartment 35. Rue de l’Odéon (Sylvia Beach’s apartment) 36. Old Shakespeare and Company bookshop 37. New Shakespeare and Company bookshop 38. The Panthéon (burial site of Voltaire, Rousseau, and Zola)
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