THE MAKEUP ARTIST HANDBOOK This page intentionally left blank THE MAKEUP ARTIST HANDBOOK: Techniques for Film, Television, Photography, and Theatre Gretchen Davis and Mindy Hall AMSTERDAM (cid:129) BOSTON (cid:129) HEIDELBERG (cid:129) LONDON NEW YORK (cid:129) OXFORD (cid:129) PARIS (cid:129) SAN DIEGO SAN FRANCISCO (cid:129) SINGAPORE (cid:129) SYDNEY (cid:129) TOKYO Focal Press is an imprint of Elsevier Acquisitions Editor: Elinor Actipis Developmental Editor: Michele Cronin Publishing Services Manager: George Morrison Project Manager: Kathryn Liston Editorial Assistant: Robin Weston Marketing Manager: Marcel Koppes Illustrations: Robert Revels (www.robertrevels.com) Drawings for Shapes: Dan Gheno Drawings for Color: Don Jusko Cover Design: Mary Birchler Focal Press is an imprint of Elsevier 30 Corporate Drive, Suite 400, Burlington, MA 01803, USA Linacre House, Jordan Hill, Oxford OX2 8DP, UK Copyright © 2008 Gretchen Davis and Mindy Hall. Published by Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher. Permissions may be sought directly from Elsevier’s Science & Technology Rights Department in Oxford, UK: phone: (+44) 1865 843830, fax: (+44) 1865 853333, E-mail: permissions @ elsevier.com. You may also complete your request online via the Elsevier homepage (http://elsevier.com), by selecting “Support & Contact” then “Copyright & permission” and then “Obtain permission”. Recognizing the importance of preserving what has been written, Elsevier prints its books on acid-free paper whenever possible. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Application submitted British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN: 978-0-240-80941-0 For information on all Focal Press publications visit our website at www.books.elsevier.com 08 09 10 11 12 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China Working together to grow libraries in developing countries www.elsevier.com | www.bookaid.org | www.sabre.org CONTENTS Dedications/Acknowledgments vii Chapter 1 Shapes 1 Chapter 2 The Body 17 Chapter 3 Color 35 Chapter 4 Lighting 47 Chapter 5 Tech Stuff 59 v Chapter 6 Foundations 67 Chapter 7 Beauty and Basics 83 Chapter 8 Design 111 Chapter 9 Hair 133 Chapter 10 Airbrush 155 Chapter 11 Effects 179 Chapter 12 How to Be a Pro 217 Cosmetics, Tools, Labs, and Effects 247 The Crew 253 Glossary 257 Professional Library 263 The Pros 265 Unions 273 Index 275 This page intentionally left blank FOR ALL MAKEUP ARTISTS, EVERYWHERE DEDICATIONS This book is dedicated to my husband John, who has always supported me. To my family, whose artistic abilities never cease to amaze me: Mom, Dad, Son, and Sisters. To my friend and colleague Yvette, who can make me laugh no matter where we are. And of course who can forget Max? —Gretchen Davis vii ACKNOWLEDGMENTS This book could not have happened without “The Pros,” our amazing friends and colleagues who shared their talents and expertise, their time and valuable contributions to this text. They made this happen though crazy schedules, numerous locations, countries, time zones, and ridiculous work hours to contribute. They are true artists who recognize the need to share our craft. Tremendous thanks to Darla Albright, Gary Archer, Mary Birchler, Fred Blau, Christine Patterson Ceret, Debra Coleman, Richard Dean, Ken Diaz, Daniela Eschbacher, Kris Evans, Kim Felix-Burke, Dan Gheno, Steven Horak, Don Jusko, Erwin H. Kupitz, Bradley M. Look, Gerd Mairandres, Randy Huston Mercer, Gil Mosko, Matthew Mungle, Kenny Meyers, Dina Ousley, Susan Stone, Joseph N. Tawil, Christien Tinsley, Nancy Tozier, Jenny King Turko, Paul Wheeler, and Patty York. Unending thanks to S. E. Radich for your undying support, tireless hard work, and fl awless organization of this book and its content. You kept it all together, again though several locations, time zones, and countries. Without you, there would be no “input” of text and no coordination of crazy schedules and deadlines! We could not have done it without you. Thank you Academy of Art University fi lmmaker and innovator David Oliver Pfeil, who fi rst approached Gretchen about starting a Makeup Program for the school. Without his vision of the importance that Makeup has within the Film Department and as an art form, students would not have had the opportunity to experience and witness what a career as a Makeup Artist could be. Along with David, thank you to Dan Burns and Jack Isgro for their support in the success of the Makeup Program. Jack, your input to the publisher made this book happen. Many thanks to Elisa Stephens who encourages instructors to teach students how it really is in the working world. Much love and gratitute to our families, friends and mentors who have cheered us on and guided us through this journey, and lastly to all those actors who have allowed us into their world, face to face for countless hours to do “that thing we do”. We could not do it with out you. Thank you. —Gretchen Davis & Mindy Hall viii E R E H W Y R E V E , S T S I T R A P U E K A M L L A R O F FOREWORD “Most civilians—people who don’t make movies for a living—think makeup men are little more than hovering sprites who powder noses. But they are true artists, often unsung, who imprint fi lm with the soft touch of their brushes and the hard work of their craft. “The Man Who Aged Me” by Tom Hanks Article Published in the New York Times, April 27, 2006 ix
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