The magic of spice blends : a guide to the art, science, and lore of combining flavors

163 Pages·2016·66.67 MB·English

by  Green, Legato

the magic of
SPICE
BLENDS
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the magic
OF
SPICE
BLENDS
A Guide to the Art,
Science, and Lore of
Combining Flavors
ALIZA GREEN
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the magic
OF
SPICE
BLENDS
A Guide to the Art,
Science, and Lore of
Combining Flavors
ALIZA GREEN
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DEDICATION
THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED to my
mother, Vivian Green, who introduced
© 2016 by Quarry Books me to the magic of bustling markets,
Text © 2016 Aliza Green fresh ingredients, and bold spices.
May she reach 100 years and more!
First published in the United States of America in 2016 by
Quarry Books, an imprint of
Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc.
100 Cummings Center
Suite 406-L
Beverly, Massachusetts 01915-6101
Telephone: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
QuartoKnows.com
Visit our blogs at QuartoKnows.com.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced
in any form without written permission of the copyright
owners. All images in this book have been reproduced with the
knowledge and prior consent of the artists concerned, and no
responsibility is accepted by the producer, publisher, or printer
for any infringement of copyright or otherwise, arising from
the contents of this publication. Every efort has been made to
ensure that credits accurately comply with information supplied.
We apologize for any inaccuracies that may have occurred and
will resolve inaccurate or missing information in a subsequent
reprinting of the book.
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
ISBN: 978-1-63159-074-0
Digital edition published in 2016
eISBN: 978-1-62788-799-1
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data available
Design: Samantha J. Bednarek
Photography: Steve Legato/stevelegato.com
Spezie Forti recipe, page 94, © 2014 Chef Cesare Casella
Printed in China
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DEDICATION
THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED to my
mother, Vivian Green, who introduced
© 2016 by Quarry Books me to the magic of bustling markets,
Text © 2016 Aliza Green fresh ingredients, and bold spices.
May she reach 100 years and more!
First published in the United States of America in 2016 by
Quarry Books, an imprint of
Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc.
100 Cummings Center
Suite 406-L
Beverly, Massachusetts 01915-6101
Telephone: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
QuartoKnows.com
Visit our blogs at QuartoKnows.com.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced
in any form without written permission of the copyright
owners. All images in this book have been reproduced with the
knowledge and prior consent of the artists concerned, and no
responsibility is accepted by the producer, publisher, or printer
for any infringement of copyright or otherwise, arising from
the contents of this publication. Every efort has been made to
ensure that credits accurately comply with information supplied.
We apologize for any inaccuracies that may have occurred and
will resolve inaccurate or missing information in a subsequent
reprinting of the book.
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
ISBN: 978-1-63159-074-0
Digital edition published in 2016
eISBN: 978-1-62788-799-1
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data available
Design: Samantha J. Bednarek
Photography: Steve Legato/stevelegato.com
Spezie Forti recipe, page 94, © 2014 Chef Cesare Casella
Printed in China
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CONTENTS
Preface 9 97
6 • Blends from the Indian
11 Subcontinent
1 • An Introduction to Spices • Basic Curry Powder—Southern India 98
• Spices 101 12 • Balti Masala Spice Mix—Baltistan 100
• Working with Spices and Herbs 16 • Khotachiwadi East Indian Bottle
Masala—Mumbai 102
25 • Garam Masala—Northern India 104
2 • African Blends • Panch Phoron—Bengal 106
• Ras el Hanout—North Africa 26 • Sambar Podi—Alleppey 108
• Chermoula—Morocco 28 • Vadouvan—Pondicherry, India 111
• Tabil—Tunisia 30 • Spiced Tarka—Indian Subcontinent 114
• Harissa Paste—Tunisia 32
• Dukkah—Egypt 34 117
• Berberé—Ethiopia 36 7 • Blends from
the Middle East
39 • Advieh—Iran 118
3 • Asian Blends • Baharat—Turkey 120
• Shichimi Togarashi—Japan 40 • Za’atar Mix—Syria, Palestine,
• Gomasio—Japan 42 and Lebanon 122
• Five-Spice Powder—China 44 • Seven Spices—Lebanon 124
• Thai Curry Pastes—Thailand 46 • Hawaij—Yemen 126
• Zhoug—Yemen 128
53
4 • latin-American Blends 131
• Achiote Paste—Yucatán 54 8 • North American Blends
• Mole—Mexico 57 • Apple Pie Spice—
• Tempero Baiano—Brazil 63 East Coast, United States 132
• Adobo Seasoning—Caribbean 66 • Poultry Seasoning—New England 135
• Poudre de Colombo—Caribbean 68 • Montreal Steak Seasoning—
• Jerk Seasoning—Jamaica 70 Montreal 136
• Pastrami Seasoning—Mid-Atlantic
73 United States and Canada 138
5 • European Blends • Barbecue Seasoning Rub—Texas 140
• Bouquet Garni—France 74 • Chili Powder—Texas 142
• Fines Herbes—France 76 • Louisiana Crawfish Boil Spices—
• Herbes de Provence—France 78 Louisiana 144
• Quatre Épices—France 80 • Cajun Seasoning—Louisiana 146
• Khmeli-Suneli—Georgia 82 • Chesapeake Bay Seasoning—
• Speculaas Spice—Holland 84 Maryland 147
• Gingerbread Spice Mix—Nordic • Pumpkin Pie Spice—North America 148
and Lowland Countries 88
• Pickling Spice—Northern Europe 90 Resources 150
• Tempero da Essência—Portugal 92
Acknowledgments 152
• Spezie Forti—Tuscany 94
About the Author 153
Index 154
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CONTENTS
Preface 9 97
6 • Blends from the Indian
11 Subcontinent
1 • An Introduction to Spices • Basic Curry Powder—Southern India 98
• Spices 101 12 • Balti Masala Spice Mix—Baltistan 100
• Working with Spices and Herbs 16 • Khotachiwadi East Indian Bottle
Masala—Mumbai 102
25 • Garam Masala—Northern India 104
2 • African Blends • Panch Phoron—Bengal 106
• Ras el Hanout—North Africa 26 • Sambar Podi—Alleppey 108
• Chermoula—Morocco 28 • Vadouvan—Pondicherry, India 111
• Tabil—Tunisia 30 • Spiced Tarka—Indian Subcontinent 114
• Harissa Paste—Tunisia 32
• Dukkah—Egypt 34 117
• Berberé—Ethiopia 36 7 • Blends from
the Middle East
39 • Advieh—Iran 118
3 • Asian Blends • Baharat—Turkey 120
• Shichimi Togarashi—Japan 40 • Za’atar Mix—Syria, Palestine,
• Gomasio—Japan 42 and Lebanon 122
• Five-Spice Powder—China 44 • Seven Spices—Lebanon 124
• Thai Curry Pastes—Thailand 46 • Hawaij—Yemen 126
• Zhoug—Yemen 128
53
4 • latin-American Blends 131
• Achiote Paste—Yucatán 54 8 • North American Blends
• Mole—Mexico 57 • Apple Pie Spice—
• Tempero Baiano—Brazil 63 East Coast, United States 132
• Adobo Seasoning—Caribbean 66 • Poultry Seasoning—New England 135
• Poudre de Colombo—Caribbean 68 • Montreal Steak Seasoning—
• Jerk Seasoning—Jamaica 70 Montreal 136
• Pastrami Seasoning—Mid-Atlantic
73 United States and Canada 138
5 • European Blends • Barbecue Seasoning Rub—Texas 140
• Bouquet Garni—France 74 • Chili Powder—Texas 142
• Fines Herbes—France 76 • Louisiana Crawfish Boil Spices—
• Herbes de Provence—France 78 Louisiana 144
• Quatre Épices—France 80 • Cajun Seasoning—Louisiana 146
• Khmeli-Suneli—Georgia 82 • Chesapeake Bay Seasoning—
• Speculaas Spice—Holland 84 Maryland 147
• Gingerbread Spice Mix—Nordic • Pumpkin Pie Spice—North America 148
and Lowland Countries 88
• Pickling Spice—Northern Europe 90 Resources 150
• Tempero da Essência—Portugal 92
Acknowledgments 152
• Spezie Forti—Tuscany 94
About the Author 153
Index 154
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PREFACE
MAYBE IT WAS MY VISITS to spice markets provide the characteristic underlying flavor
in Mexico, Israel, Greece, and elsewhere— profile for world cuisine from Turkey to
from childhood on—with their intoxicating Morocco, Mexico to Thailand, Brazil to Sri
smells and cone-shaped mounds of Lanka. To test the recipes for this book
mysterious and colorful spices that first got and to hone my skills, I conducted a highly
me hooked on spices. Perhaps it’s because successful series of cooking classes focused
of my inveterate curiosity about culinary on making spice blends and using them in
ingredients. What is in this mysterious recipes that I presented at the Les Dames
blend and what makes it smell so good? In d’Escofier International annual conference,
my quest to learn more about spices, a trip the Monell Chemical Senses Center, and at
to Greece led me to Elixir, a small shop in Baba Olga’s Café in Philadelphia where I
the wholesale market area of Athens with act as chef. Enthusiastic audience reaction
walls lined in antique wooden cabinets, further encouraged me to write this book.
each drawer filled with a diferent spice, Once I started working on it, everything
dried bunches of potent Greek wild- just flowed and I got more and more
harvested herbs hanging from the rafers, immersed in the art of sourcing, roasting,
and mastica resin harvested only on the and blending spices so that the finished
fragrant island known as Chios. mixture is so well-balanced that no one
Getting to know the legendary Ann spice dominates, and the whole is far more
Wilder, founder of Baltimore’s Vann’s than the sum of its individual parts.
Spices, encouraged me to pursue my Whether it’s a blend of whole and
exploration of the world of spices and crumbled spices for the highly adaptable
complex spice blends. On a trip to Napa Pickling Spice blend, a complex and
Valley, California, I visited with spice intriguing mélange of Mediterranean,
maven, Shuli Madrone, who answered Indian, and East Asian spices for Moroccan
a slew of questions and introduced me Ras al Hanout; the Tunisian pantry staple,
to his select collection of spices. A few Harissa, which I learned to make from
years later, I made a special trip to India a Tunisian-Jewish restaurateur; or the
to learn more about the world’s biggest Turkish basic blend, baharat, that my
producer and consumer of spices and had Turkish cooking friends rely on to season
the opportunity to spend an afernoon lamb kebobs and lahmajun, a spiced lamb
with a group of East Indian women who flatbread, each of these blends brings a
make their family heirloom–recipe, bottled world of characteristic aromas into your
masala, in giant batches once a year. My kitchen for a quick and inexpensive mental
luggage was weighed down by bags (not get-away—that’s the magic of spice blends!
nearly enough!) of their bottled masala So, until my next trip to Morocco or
and, best of all, a recipe to make it myself, Turkey or Thailand or Mexico, I’ll rely on
which I have adapted for this book. my precious library of homemade spice
Several years ago, I had the pleasure of blends to bring their characteristic flavors
writing the small, compact Field Guide to to my cooking. Once you’ve filled your
Herbs & Spices, which whetted my appetite home with the fragrance of toasting spices
to learn more about spices: what happens and start making your own blends, you’ll
when they are toasted, ground, and be hooked, too.
perfectly blended and how these blends
9
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