The Larder Chef, Fourth Edition: Food Preparation and Presentation

369 Pages·2006·11.32 MB·English

by  W K H Bode

Food Preparation and Presentation
Fourth edition
M. J. Leto, MHCIMA
W. K. H. Bode, Mphil, MHCIMA DipHot(Göt)
AMSTERDAM (cid:127) BOSTON (cid:127) HEIDELBERG (cid:127) LONDON (cid:127) NEWYORK
OXFORD (cid:127) PARIS (cid:127) SANDIEGO (cid:127) SANFRANCISCO
SINGAPORE (cid:127) SYDNEY (cid:127) TOKYO
Butterworth-HeinemannisanimprintofElsevier
Butterworth-HeinemannisanimprintofElsevier
LinacreHouse,JordanHill,OxfordOX28DP,UK
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Firstpublished1969
SecondEdition1975
Reprinted1977,1980,1981,1984,1985,1986
Firstpublishedasapaperbackedition1987
Reprinted1988
Thirdedition1989
Reprinted1990,1992,1993,1995,1996,1997,1998,2000
Transferredtodigitalprinting2003
Fourthedition2006
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BritishLibraryCataloguinginPublicationData
Leto,M.J.(MarioJack),1910–1994
Thelarderchef:foodpreparationandpresentation.–4thed.
1.Cookery2.Quantitycookery
I.TitleII.Bode,W.K.H.(WilliKarlHeinrich),1931–641.5
ISBN–13:978-0-75-066899-6
ISBN–10:0-75-066899-7
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Contents
Preface ix
1 THE LARDER CHEF 1
TheFunctionoftheLarderDepartment 1
BreakdownofWork 1
ResponsibilitiesoftheChefGarde-Manger 2
LarderControl 2
StockSheet 2
LiaisonwithKitchenandPastryDepartment 3
UseofRefrigeratorsandFreezers 7
Refrigerators 7
UseofDeepFreezers 7
TypesofDeepFreezer 10
FreezerManagement 11
Withdrawal 12
UseandCareofMachineryandUtensils 13
2 STARTERS 19
ClassificationofStarters 20
SingleStarters 21
SomeClassicalSingleCold 21
MixedStarters 59
3 SALADS, SALAD DRESSINGS AND COLD SAUCES 61
SaladDressings 61
SaladPresentations 62
SuitableDressings 65
LeafSalads 65
SingleVegetableSalads 68
MixedVegetableSalads 68
CompoundSalads 72
ServiceofSalads 84
HotSalads 84
ColdSauces 85
Mayonnaise 85
CocktailSauce 86
TheCoulis 86
DiversColdSauces 89
v
vi Contents
CompoundButters 92
Marinades 93
4 FISH, SHELLFISH AND CRUSTACEANS 95
Fish 95
NutritionalValue 96
TypesofFish 96
QualityandStorageofFish 97
ClassificationofFish 98
PreparationofFishforCooking 98
ShellfishandCrustaceans 104
DifferentPreparationsforCulinaryUse 106
Boiled/PoachedFish 106
GrilledandFriedFish 118
OtherPreparations 120
5 POULTRY AND GAME 122
Poultry 122
Quality 122
MarketTypes 122
PreparationofChicken 123
PreparationofTurkey 130
DucksandDucklings 131
Geese 132
GuineaFowlandPigeon 132
Game 132
FeatheredGame 133
FurredGame 135
6 BUTCHERY 140
Beef 141
SkeletalFormation 141
JointingorDissection 143
PreparationandUseofJointsandCuts 146
Veal 155
Dissection 156
PreparationanduseofJointsandCuts 156
LambandMutton 162
Dissection 164
PreparationandUseofJointsandCuts 165
Pork 170
Dissection 171
Contents vii
PreparationandUseofJointsandCuts 171
PreparationofaBoar’sHeadforBuffetDisplay 175
Bacon,GammonandHams 177
PreparationofJointsandCutsfromaSideofBacon 177
Gammon 178
Hams 179
TheOffals 183
7 FORCEMEATS, GARNISHES AND SEASONINGS 188
RawFishForcemeats 188
TheFishFarces 189
RawMeatForcemeats 194
TheSimpleForcemeats 195
TheFinerForcemeats 199
MeatQuenelles 201
TheMousses,MousselinesandSoufflés 201
SimpleCookedForcemeats 203
CookedMeatForcemeats 204
CookedFishForcemeats 205
Garnishes 207
FruitsoftheSea 209
Content 209
Seasonings 210
SaltsandSingleSpices 210
MixedorCompoundSpices 214
Herbs 217
CondimentsandSauces 220
Brines,MarinadesandPickles 221
8 THE BUFFET CHEF 225
Preparations 225
ColdBuffets 226
TheFingerBuffet 226
TheForkBuffet 227
AidstoPreparationandPresentation 230
TheModernColdBuffet 234
TheClassicalBuffet 234
RoomLayoutsandBuffetShapes 246
TheScandinavianBuffetorSmörgåsbord 246
Sandwiches 253
OpenSandwiches(Smørrebrød) 259
viii Contents
9 THE CHEESES 270
VarietiesofCheese 271
FreshWhiteCheeses 271
SoftCheeses 271
BlueCheeses 271
Semi-HardCheeses 276
HardCheeses 277
CheeseontheMenu 279
TheCheeseBoard 280
CheeseDishes 280
10 LARDER ADMINISTRATION 281
TheCostingSheet 281
ExplanationoftheCostingSheet 281
ClassicalEuropeanMenuStructure 282
CulinaryTerminologyandVocabularyinSixLanguages 288
FoodsinSeason 307
PlatedService 312
Index 314
Preface
It is now 35 years since The Larder Chef was first published. Since its first edition in
1969 we have had a Second Edition in 1975 with several reprints, then in 1988 the
new Paperback Edition was published, and a metric Third Edition followed in 1989,
when Jack Leto was still with us for help and guidance.
The Larder Chef has sold worldwide in most English-speaking countries, and some
that are not. Personally I have been asked to sign often long-held copies in Boston,
Budapest, Hamburg, London, New Orleans, Stockholm, and in the depths of Dorset.
The book was intended as a text for catering students of all types and levels, and
we were thus pleasantly surprised when a good percentage of copies were bought
by the general public, as well as hotel, restaurant and butchery managers and staff.
We have always been grateful for their comments, suggestions for inclusions or
changes, and criticisms received over the years.These were always considered when
a new edition was prepared.
But for some time now I have felt that The Larder Chef needed a more radical
update, to reflect the considerable changes that have taken place in our industry.For
this purpose I approached 80 chefs and their managers with a questionnaire, asking
for answers to 30 questions. I contacted establishments in an area roughly bounded
by Exeter and London, Oxford and Bournemouth. I had a remarkable 84% response,
with very honest answers and very reflective comments.My grateful thanks to you all.
The results of my survey clearly showed a split in the approach to preparation and
serviceoffoodinourindustrytoday.FoodServicemaycontrastbetweentheveryfast,
medium fast and slow, and Food Quality and Presentation may range from the very
poor, acceptable to good, and very good and expensive.These different approaches
are well expressed in two drawings reproduced here from the observant eye of Swiss
artist Paul André Parret.
My survey also showed that today:
(cid:127) 4% still bought a hindquarter of beef or carcass of lamb on a weekly basis
(cid:127) 72% bought most of their joints ready for the oven
(cid:127) 78%boughtalloftheirdifferenttypesofsteakreadycuttorequiredsizeorweight
(cid:127) 30% bought their steaks frozen
(cid:127) 80% bought only frozen fish, a necessity in many places as very little good fresh
fish is available.
Given this information, how was I to write or bring up to date a cookery textbook
that would be of help to all and meet most needs? Clearly with some difficulties!
Lookingattherestoftheanswerstomysurvey, thepicturelooksmuchbetter:90%
ofallhorsd’oeuvreswerepreparedfresh,mostofthesalads,allofthevegetablesand
most potatoes, and all buffets, if simpler Modern versions, were made fresh in house.
I am well aware that today many of the tasks described in this book have been
taken over by manufacturers who, by applying mass production techniques, are able
to supply many of the partly prepared needs of the caterer in some form or other.
But The Larder Chef has been written primarily as a textbook for students, or young
chefs who wish to widen their knowledge, or check on facts or approach in respect to
a given task in hand. Both should learn to distinguish between a spring chicken or a
ix