Copyright Copyright © 2017 by Paul Bogard Hachette Book Group supports the right to free expression and the value of copyright. The purpose of copyright is to encourage writers and artists to produce the creative works that enrich our culture. The scanning, uploading, and distribution of this book without permission is a theft of the author’s intellectual property. If you would like permission to use material from the book (other than for review purposes), please contact [email protected]. Thank you for your support of the author’s rights. Little, Brown and Company Hachette Book Group 1290 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10104 littlebrown.com twitter.com/littlebrown facebook.com/littlebrownandcompany First ebook edition: March 2017 Little, Brown and Company is a division of Hachette Book Group, Inc. The Little, Brown name and logo are trademarks of Hachette Book Group, Inc. The Hachette Speakers Bureau provides a wide range of authors for speaking events. To find out more, go to hachettespeakersbureau.com or call (866) 376- 6591. The publisher is not responsible for websites (or their content) that are not owned by the publisher. ISBN 978-0-316-34228-5 E3-20170211-JV-PC E3-20170211-JV-PC Contents Cover Title Page Copyright Dedication Introduction PAVED AND HALLOWED Manhattan Mexico City London Northern Virginia Gettysburg FARMED AND WILD Bishopstone Soil Ames Grass The Sandhills HELL AND SACRED Appalachia Treblinka Alaska The Sierra Nevada Home Photos Acknowledgments About the Author Also By Paul Bogard Notes Newsletters For Caroline Talk of mysteries!—Think of our life in nature,—daily to be shown matter, to come in contact with it,—rocks, trees, wind on our cheeks! The solid earth! the actual world! the common sense! Contact! Contact! Who are we? where are we? —HENRY DAVID THOREAU, THE MAINE WOODS (1864) Introduction For a transitory enchanted moment man must have held his breath in the presence of this continent, compelled into an aesthetic contemplation he neither understood nor desired, face to face for the last time in history with something commensurate to his capacity for wonder. —F. SCOTT FITZGERALD, THE GREAT GATSBY (1925) F rom the observatory deck on the 102nd floor of One World Trade Center, the island of Manhattan spreads north beneath a hazy gray-gold sky—the Hudson River on the left, the East on the right—a putty-white and beige-brown blanket of stone, steel, and concrete covering every inch of its once green ground. A belt of Midtown towers blocks the view of Central Park’s verdant rectangle, but I know it’s there on the other side. Just as I know what lies beneath the city’s weight. “I became aware of the old island here that flowered once for Dutch sailors’ eyes,” Fitzgerald wrote, “a fresh, green breast of the new world.” From near the top of the tallest building in the Western Hemisphere, as far from ground as it’s possible to be while still connected, it’s difficult to see more than a few scraps of that old new world. But my plan is to walk up the island from Ground Zero to the park. Here, in my country’s largest city, its most urban area, I will begin to look for the ground beneath us—what’s gone missing, what remains, what may come to be. For now, what is under my feet here on the observation deck is turning my legs rubbery. Ninety million pounds of structural steel and more than two hundred thousand cubic yards of concrete—enough for a sidewalk stretching from here to Chicago—hold me up and anchor this tower down, but still I swear I can feel it sway. Long before the tower rose, the belowground level had to be prepared. Workers cleared debris from 9/11’s wreckage and dug into the bedrock that would support the new building—two hundred feet below street level. Digging that deep yielded immediate discoveries, including shoes, wallets, and even human remains. Deeper still, workers struck timber, the oak ribs of an eighteenth-century boat from an era when the Hudson flowed through the site. Is it knowledge of the depth and weight of foundational construction that gives most people the confidence needed to press against the thirty-foot-tall floor-to- ceiling window glass, expressing amazement in languages from across the globe as they peer 1,268 feet down? While I do appreciate the view, I cannot wait to get back to solid ground. Less expansive than “earth,” less ambiguous than “the land,” for me “ground” means where we “have trod, have trod,” as Gerard Manley Hopkins wrote in his famous poem, and continue to tread, what we see when we look down, the planet as we experience it in our day-to-day lives. And it is a wonderland. We walk on ground that teems with life—an incredible one-third of all living organisms—a trove of biodiversity still only just starting to be explored. Said Leonardo da Vinci some five hundred years ago, “We know more about the movement of celestial bodies than about the soil underfoot.” Incredibly, that remains true. But it’s also true that this is changing. Since the new century’s start, our knowledge of soil has bloomed—we have learned more in the past decade than in all previous years combined. We now know, for example, that just a teaspoon of healthy soil holds millions of species, and far more microorganisms than there are people on Earth. This incredible living ground gives rise to every plant, animal, and human—some 97 percent of the food we eat comes from the ground—and to boundless beauty. From the tallest redwoods and evergreens to the tiniest blue wildflowers, the ground holds the wild world in place. The paths we walk repeatedly, the pressed prints of elephant, wolf, and lion, the bodies of those who fought and fell, the memories of everything gone before, the ground holds this all. Unfortunately, studies reveal that most of us in the industrialized world spend 90 to 95 percent of our time indoors. And when we do walk outside, we see beneath our shoe-clad feet an unnatural surface, likely some version of asphalt or concrete. In fact, we have some sixty-one thousand square miles of paved ground in the United States, an amount that together would be the twenty-fourth largest state by surface area, larger than any state east of the Mississippi. We now have more square miles of pavement in the lower forty-eight than we have square miles of wetlands, and every year a million new houses and ten thousand new miles of asphalt encase more natural ground. This isn’t happening only in the United States, of course. Since 1950, the paved surface area in the European
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