The Gourmet's Guide to Making Sausage Volume 2

193 Pages·2015·13.38 MB·English

by  Christopher J

THE GOURMET’S GUIDE TO MAKING
SAUSAGE VOL. II
116 Formatted International Sausage Recipes
Including 16 Asian Recipes
By
Christopher J. Bruce
PUBLISHED BY:
Christopher J. Bruce
The Gourmet’s Guide to Making Sausage Vol. II
Copyright © 2013 by Christopher J. Bruce
CONTENTS
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
1
CHAPTER 1 Introduction
3
CHAPTER 2 Sausage Types
6
CHAPTER 3 Equipment
8
CHAPTER 4 Health
11
CHAPTER 5 Ingredients
14
CHAPTER 6 Additives
19
CHAPTER 7 Casings
26
CHAPTER 8 Production Methods
38
CHAPTER 9 Recipe Records
52
CHAPTER 10 Notes on the Recipes 54
CHAPTER 11 The Recipes
55
CHAPTER 12 Conversion Tables
182
ALPHABETICAL RECIPE INDEX 188
OTHER BOOKS
191
Acknowledgements
Sausages have been made for thousands of years. Every civilization has some
history of sausage making including the Africans, Americans (North and South
of both the indigenous and immigrant species), Arabians, Asians, Chinese,
Egyptians, Europeans, Greeks, Indians, Mesopotamians, Mongolians,
Polynesians, Romans, Russians, Scandinavians, the list is endless. Members of
every ethnic group that has ever lived on Earth have all tried sausage making and
to credit any single person with having invented any particular sausage would be
doing an injustice to the long since dead person that actually did. Suffice it to say
that sausages were almost certainly being made before recorded history.
Sausages were probably the Neanderthal version of present day fast food.
Judging by the standards of some fast foods I would imagine that the quality was
better! In any event it is likely that sausages have been made ever since our
ancestors became the leading carnivores on the plains of this planet.
I have made sausage as an amateur and professional for over 10 years but I do
not claim to have written any of the recipes in this book. In fact I have collected
them from every Tom, Dick and Harry I know, and a lot of people I don’t, as
well as from publications and the Internet. Some of them are exactly as given to
me, others have been changed so much from the original version that they would
not be recognized by their original authors, some I gleaned from national meat
boards and some from companies promoting sales of sausage ingredients,
casings or equipment. However, all the recipes have been tried and tested and as
far as I am aware, none of my friends or customers ever suffered any ill effects
from consuming any sausage the recipe for which is included in this collection.
During the course of my research I often found that there are several different
names for what in effect is one single sausage recipe. Even recipes credited to
well known chefs are more often than not a variation on a theme. The recipes
included in this book vary from the simple to the fairly complicated but all can
be used to prepare really delightful sausages in your own kitchen.
To all those people who have taken the time to record recipes which have been
handed down from generation to generation and have gone to the trouble of
publishing them in one form or another and to those who have collected recipes,
recorded their ideas on sausage making and likewise published these in the
press, on the internet and in recipe books, I would like to say a very big thank
you for making this knowledge available to sausage fans all over the world.
C. J. Bruce, Thailand, July 2013

CHAPTER 1
AUTHOR’S NOTE AND INTRODUCTION
Author’s Note
This book, Vol. II of the Gourmet’s Guide to Making Sausage, includes 116
sausage recipes of which 16 are for Asian sausages and 14 are repeated from
Vol. I. I have repeated 14 recipes because unlike most sausage recipes for which
there are alternatives these are unique with no alternative version available. The
same straightforward descriptions of the procedures to be followed in order to
make very good sausages that appeared in Vol. I have been included in this
second volume of recipes. The recipes in this book are once again formatted and
standardized to yield 1 lb or 1 kg of sausage per batch.
To those of you who purchased Vol. I of The Gourmet’s Guide to Making
Sausage, please accept my apologies for having repeated the sausage making
procedures in this book. I have repeated the procedures in Vol. II for two
reasons: the first being that some new readers may not want to purchase Vol. I
and the second being that it is convenient for purchasers of both books to have
the procedures and general information at hand without having to refer to a
second book.
Introduction
As stated previously under Acknowledgements, sausages have been around for a
very long time but the modern sausage with which we are so familiar today has
been developed and refined in more recent times by craftsmen who have passed
on the art of making a good sausage from one generation to the next over the
past 1000 years or more. The word sausage comes from the Latin word salsus
which means salt or salted and the Romans were making sausage using salt as a
preservative over 2000 years ago. At that time salt was in great demand and the
modern English word “salary” is likewise derived from the Latin term for wages
which were known as “salt money” by the Romans. We know that the ancient
Egyptians were skilled sausage makers long before the Romans and since then a
tradition of sausage making has been fostered by skilled butchers whose
knowledge of meat, meat preservation, meat processing methods and the use of
herbs and spices has been developed into what, essentially, has become an art
form practiced by professionals and amateurs alike throughout the world.
Due to the introduction into Europe of new herbs and spices from both
the New World and Asia in recent history, and the use of locally produced
ingredients which varied considerably from one country, region or sometimes
even town, to the next, new sausages were developed and often became
associated with the country, region or town from which they originated. Typical
examples of this are Bologna, Cumberland, Frankfurter, Genoa, Russian,
Vienna, Wiener etc. Some sausages are named after the professions or
occupations of the people that made them such as boerewors (farmer’s sausage),
jagerwurst (hunter’s sausage) and others were named after the country from
which they originated such as Polish, Russian or Spanish. Finally, others are
named after an ingredient like Pepperoni or the season in which they were made
or intended to be eaten e.g. summer. I wonder who named the universal hot dog!
The acceleration of sausage development was brought on both by the
introduction of the new herbs and spices and by the need to preserve food for
growing populations. Sausages provided a means of keeping meat for an
extended period of time without refrigeration, especially in warm climates, and it
was this that led to the development of dry, semi-dry and dried sausages which
could be stored for long periods of time without refrigeration. In cold climates
more use was made of fresh sausage which could be kept cold or frozen for
months.
Today sausage making is big business with emphasis on quality and food safety,
with food safety being of the utmost importance. I have to say that I have eaten
many a sausage that left a lot to be desired in terms of quality, especially quality
of taste, but to date I have never had a health problem arising from their
consumption. One thing is certain and that is that there is nothing quite like a
homemade sausage. Admittedly sausage made at home has distinct advantages;
you know what’s in it, it’s made to suit your own palate, it’s economical (unless
you add in the cost of your own labor), it’s easy and it’s fun. There is also
nothing more satisfying than sitting down to a meal of aromatic, soft, juicy,
crispy, brown skinned sausage made by your own hands in your own kitchen. If
you make sausage for your own immediate consumption it can be largely
additive and preservative (i.e. chemical) free. The exceptions that I always make
with regard to the addition of chemicals to sausage mixes are sodium nitrate and
nitrite which prevent the occurrence of botulism, a food poisoning which is
lethal and can lead to paralysis and death. It is essential that you use nitrate
and/or nitrite cures when making dry, semi-dry or dried sausage. Nitrate and
nitrite are sold under a number of commercial brand names including Prague
Powder, Instacure, Modern Cure and Morton’s. Botulism is dealt with in more
detail in Chapter 4 of this book.
There are a number of sausage recipe books on the market and hundreds of
recipes posted on the Internet but very few of these recipes have been written to
yield amounts of sausage which are manageable in terms of production and
storage in the average domestic kitchen. In this book you will find 116 recipes
all standardized to yield 1 lb or 1 kg of sausage. Please note that in all recipes the
actual yield in terms of total weight will be more than the net weight of the meat
content due to the addition of the herbs, spices, water, wine, breadcrumbs,
cereals, vegetables, cures and other ingredients. I have provided recipes that will
yield 1 lb or 1 kg because it is easy to multiply 1 by the number of pounds or
kilograms you want to make. Likewise ingredient measures are shown to two
decimal places i.e. 1.25 tsp rather than 1 ¼ tsp because it is easier to multiply
decimals than fractions. For those of you who are not comfortable with decimals
you will find fraction to decimal measure conversions in Chapter 13.
To make it easier to identify the recipe you want to use, I have provided a dual
Recipe Index which lists the recipes alphabetically by meat type or mix and by
name. In this book you will find a recipe for sausage to suit every taste and
worthy of any dining occasion. I hope that you will get as much pleasure out of
making sausages from the recipes in this collection as I have had collecting
them.
CHAPTER 2
SAUSAGE TYPES
Although there are hundreds of sausage recipes, the vast majority represent
duplications or variations on a theme and when all is said and done the number
of different recipes probably boils down (no pun intended) to between two and
three hundred falling into the following five categories:-
Fresh Sausage
Fresh sausage means exactly that i.e. FRESH. Fresh sausage is made from fresh
meat and must be handled in the same way. Ideally, fresh sausage has no
chemical additives or preservatives added and must therefore be frozen and kept
that way if you intend to store it for future use. Whether or not fresh sausage has
preservatives in it, it’s still best consumed within three days of production.
Frozen fresh sausage should be defrosted and consumed within six months of its
production and must be fully cooked before serving.
Dry and Semi-dry Sausage
Dry sausage is made by first curing and spicing the meat, adding water and/or
wine and refrigerating the mixture for two or three days before stuffing the
sausage. The stuffed sausages are then hung for two or three days at a
temperature of less than 75˚F (24˚C) to allow initial drying to take place.
Thereafter the sausage is hung at a temperature below 50˚F (10˚C) for a further
period of time ranging from a few days up to a few months depending on the
requirements of the recipe.
Dried Sausage
Dried Sausage should not be confused with “dry” sausage. Dried sausage is
essentially dried meat and the only preservatives in it are salt, sugar and vinegar.
In the southern hemisphere, and especially in South Africa which is droëwors
(dried sausage), dried sausages are traditionally made in winter time in the dry
inland areas. The method used involves preparing the traditional “boerewors”
(farmer’s sausage) in the normal manner but using smaller diameter casings and
then allowing the sausage to dry naturally in the open air in a fine mesh screened
area, usually the “stoep” or verandah, pantry or any other area with good cross
ventilation and temperatures in the 40˚F-50˚F (5˚C-10˚C) range.
Cooked Sausage
Cooked sausage is any sausage that has been heated to a temperature in excess of