The food of Asia: featuring authentic recipes from master chefs in Burma, China, India, Indonesia, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, the Philippines, Singapore, Sri Lanka, Thailand, and Vietnam

192 Pages·2002·63.1 MB·english

by  Kong Foong Ling

The Food of
ASIA
Featuring authentic recipes from master chefs in Burma, China, India, Indonesia,
Japan, Korea, Malaysia, The Philippines, Singapore, Sri Lanka, Thailand, and Vietnam
Forewords by Ming Tsai and Cheong Liew
Introductory essays by Kong Foong Ling
PERIPLUS
Published by Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd.,
with editorial offices at
61 Tai Seng Avenue #02-12,
Singapore 534167.
Copyright© 2002
Pcrlplus Editions (HK) Ltd.
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-4629-0972-8 (ebook)
Library of Congress Control Number: 2002102296
Printed in Singapore
Photo credits:
food photography by Luca lnvernizzi Tettoni,
except as noted below:
Masano Kawana: 112-115
Heinz von Holzen: 72-87. 94-107. 176-18 7
Location photography by:
Doan Due Minh: l 70: Jean Leo Dngast/ Photobank:
22; Michael Freeman/ Photobank: 89; Jill Gocher: 9
[fishing boys]. 66. 68. 117: Tin1 Hall: 171, 173:
Heinz von Holzen: 9 [Balinese procession]. 69. 90,
91. 9 3. 174 ; Catherine Karnow: 172: Masano
Kawana: 108. 109. 111: Leong Ka Tai: 34;
Shin Kimura: 18: Kal Muller: 67: E1·ic Oey: 88:
Photobank: 6. 8 Qapancse girl). 32, 92 [tea ceremony),
The Flavors of Asia
137. 139. 153. 154: Dominic Sansoni: 144, 145. 6
147; Luca Invernizzi Tettoni: 8 rtea house], 9
rbanana leaf restaurant], 23. 25. 30. 31' 33. 48. Ingredients
10
49.50. 51.52. 53,116.118.120,152.155.156:
Sonny Yabao: 136.
The Asian Kitchen
18
Burma
Introduction 23
Suggested Menus 25
Recipes
Appetizers, Soups & Salads 26
Distributors
Soups & Noodles 27
USA. Europe Tuttle Publishing Seafood & Meat Dishes 28
& Latin America 364 Innovation Drive Desserts 29
North Clarendon. VT 05759-9436
lei: [phone]
China
Fax: [phone]
Introduction 31
Asia Pacific Berkeley Books Pte. Lld.
Suggested Menus 35
61 Tai Seng Avenue #02-12,
Singapore 534167. Recipes
Tel: [phone] Snacks & Appetizers 36
Fax: [phone]
Soups & Noodles 38
Main Dishes 40
Japan and Korea Tuttle Publishing
Yaekari Building. 3rd Floor Desserts 46
5-4-12 Osaki. Shinagawa-ku Stocks, Sauces & Condiments 47
Tokyo 141 0032, Japan
Tel: [phone]
India
Fax: [phone]
Introduction 49
Indonesia PT Java Books Indonesia
Suggested Menus 53
Jl. Kelapa Gading Kirana
Recipes
Blok A-14/17, Jakarta 14240
Tel: [phone] Breads 54
Fax: [phone] Main Dishes 56
Desserts 62
Stocks, Sauces & Condiments 65
______________________________________________________________________________ CONTENTS I 3
~I
Indonesia Malaysia & Singapore Thailand
Introduction 67 Introduction 117 Introduction 153
Suggested Menus 71 Suggested Menus 121 Suggested Menus 157
Recipes Recipes Recipes
Appetizers 72 Appetizers 122 Appetizers 158
Salads 74 Soups & Noodles 124 Soups & Noodles 160
Soups 76 Main Dishes 128 Salads & Appetizers 162
Main Dishes 78 Desserts l34 Main Dishes 164
Desserts 84 Stocks, Sauces & Condiments l35 Desserts 168
Stocks, Sauces & Condiments 87 Stocks, Sauces & Condiments 169
The Philippines
Japan Introduction l37 Vietnam
Introduction 89 Suggested Menus l39 Introduction 171
Suggested Menus 93 Recipes Suggested Menus 175
Recipes Snacks & Rice 140 Recipes
Appetizers 94 Noodles & Soups 141 Appetizers 176
Soups & Noodles 96 Main Dishes 142 Soups 178
Sushi & Sashimi 98 Desserts 143 Salads 179
Main Dishes 100 Main Dishes 180
Desserts 106 Sri Lanka Desserts 186
Stocks, Sauces & Condiments 107 Introduction 145 Stocks, Sauces & Condiments 187
Suggested Menus 147
Korea Recipes Appendix 188
Introduction 109 Snacks & Appetizers 148
Suggested Menus III Soups & Vegetables 149 Index 189
Recipes Seafood & Meat 150
Appetizers & Kimchi 112 Seafood & Meat & Desserts 151
Soups & Seafood 113
Meat, Rice & Noodles 114
Desserts & Drinks 115
4 I FOREWORD ~I _______________________________________________________________________ _
Authenticity
and tradition
Whether you're sweating out a spicy curry from India or Sri Lanka, delighting in flavorful grilled meats from Korea or Vietnam,
or marveling at the intricate delicacy of a Japanese or Thai meal, Asian food-with its delightfully heady mix of flavors, smells
and colors-has plenty to offer the dedicated foodie.
Asian cuisine is so much more than just food-steeped as it is in social and cultural lore. The region's recipes and cooking
methods have developed over many centuries and now, thanks to globalization and migration, Asia's time-honored cooking
traditions and fabled dishes have made their way to all corners of the globe. Asian ingredients that were once hard to come by
are readily available in supermarkets worldwide as well as from Asian grocers and online merchants, and more people than
ever before are eating Asian food on a regular basis.
At my restaurant, Blue Ginger, and in my cookbook, I strive to properly blend the flavo~s of the East with those of the West.
My feeling is that in order to successfully combine the two cuisines, one must first learn the proper and traditional methods of
preparation for each region. The Food of Asia thoroughly and expertly presents the entire spectrum of the Asian culinary
landscape, from Burma to Vietnam. For those who lack the time or r¢sources to travel to Asia, this book brings the region to
you, all without leaving your own kitchen.
Peace and Good Eating!
MingTsai
__________________________________________________________________________ FOREWORD I 5
~I
Inspiration
from Asia
I recall sitting in a vine-covered courtyard in Adelaide, South Australia, some 30 years ago and meditating on what Australian
cuisine would be like in the future. I remember thinking of the vast resources of food knowledge which abound to the north of
us on the Asian continent, and the relative accessibility of it all to young Australian chefs who travel there to gain firsthand
information about the best ways of preparing Asian dishes.
The Asian knowledge of fish and seafood preparations, for example, is endless-from knife skills to stir-frying, oil poaching,
steaming and multi-step boiling, deep-frying, and steaming-which is another way of braising. Asian methods of grilling after
marinating in spices and yogurt, and the appreciation for spice mixtures and the subtle fragrances of a particular spice in
combination with various foods- the knowledge and learning of all this is truly without end!
Foods and recipes from Asia have today become an integral part of the Australian diet and it is hard to imagine a restaurant
menu or meal without some Asian influences. Herb and spice combinations from Thailand and Indochina add fragrance and
excitement to our salads. The dry spice cooking of India provides a wealth of flavors and subtle aromas. The wet spice cooking
of Southeast Asia provides aromatic bouquets mingled with the sweetness of creamy coconut. The aquaculture cuisine of Japan
teaches us to respect the quality of fresh fish and appreciate raw fish, revealing its true taste. And the classical food science and
philosophy of China provides the basis for many of our cooking skills and a better appreciation of food generally.
To know how to cook, one must first learn how to eat! From many Asian traditions, we learn that eating is not only the basis of
good living but also of good health, and that certain foods act as preventative medicines. I am so glad that after 30 years, the
food traditions of Asia have so profoundly influenced the modern international cuisines of today. And I welcome the publication
of The Food of Asia which presents a wealth of authentic recipes and dishes as they are prepared and served today in Asia.
At the Grange Restaurant at Hilton Adelaide, I am continually striving to perfect the fusion of traditional Asian food cultures
represented in this book with our contemporary dining world in Australia, .
,
Cheong Liew

J INTRODUCTION I 7
Left, main picture: Friends and
family enjoying a traditional
steamboat dinner. The steam-
boat, a meal which is not only
eaten but cooked by all those at
the table, demonstrates one of
the fundamental roles that food
plays in Asia: that of bringing
people together.
The Flavors
of Asia
From roadside hawker stalls in the large cities to the food courts in shopping
malls, the five-star restaurants and the joys of home cooking, food is an all-
consuming passion in Asia.
There is so much good food in Asia that the first- placed alongside the trinity of spoon-fork-knife in
time traveler cannot help but be enchanted. It Western-style restaurants—if indeed such a cate-
often comes as a surprise to people unfamiliar gory still holds—that now serve roast lamb and
with Asian cultures how much the joy of living of tandoori chicken on the same menu. And just as
most Asian peoples centers around the prepara- kids in some Asian countries are demanding
tion, sharing, and discussion of food. As a chef cornflakes and milk for breakfast, some people in
once said, food in Asia is an exercise in tradition, the West are trading in their breakfast cereals for
in aesthetics, mutual caring, and moral lessons. steaming bowls of noodles or plain rice with miso
soup and pickles. The popularity and pervasiveness
Even out of Asia, it is hard to find a place on earth of Asian food, particularly in the West, has never
with food that has not been touched by some been higher.
aspect of Asian cooking, be it in the form of But in order to cook Asian food—any food—
ingredients, cooking methods or presentation. properly, you need to understand the origins of the
From elegant New York brasseries to stylish particular cuisine. You also need to know the best
Sydney restaurants, Asian food has come a long way of getting the most out of your ingredients. As
way since the American take on Chinese food, chop many good cooks will tell you, if you do the basics
suey, or soupy, flavorless curries made with lots of properly, the rest will follow. Once you understand
curry powder and nothing else. These days, mod- why a certain ingredient is tempered with another
ern cooks around the world use fresh cilantro or used in conjunction with something else, you
(coriander) with the same confidence as rosemary; can then play and let your imagination (and taste-
add lemongrass and kaffir limes to their tomato buds) take you to new taste sensations.
broths; and, with their family and friends, want to Let The Food of Asia be your guide through a
eat their food spicier and spicier. Chopsticks are diverse selection of cuisine from China, India,
8 I THE FOOD OF ASIA IL-______- -----------------------------------------------------------
Burma (Myanmar), Sri Lanka, Japan, Korea, Indonesia, Malaysia, the ingredients called for in The Food of Asia are readily available
Singapore, Philippines, Thailand, and Vietnam, Because the coun- from your local Asian grocery store, and it is worth your while
tries covered here encompass a diverse geography and climate, from searching out a good one and befriending the people who run it-
the temperate to the tropical, all the cuisines are quite distinct, they will be a rich source of advice and hints on how best to prepare
despite the similarity in cooking techniques and some ingredients, your purchases. Many Asian food stores these days have an extensive
All, however, emphasize freshness and flavor; in Asia, they believe range of fresh greens and vegetables, and they do not have to be used
that good eating is essential to good living. only in the Asian way.
Many of the popular favorites from each country are represented Try to use the best of what's in season and don't be afraid to
here: the gorgeous red and green curries of Thailand, invigorating experiment. For instance, there is no reason why you can't serve
Vietnamese pho, fluffy Indian breads, cleansing sushi and sashimi Chinese broccoli in place of conventional broccoli with your next leg
from Japan, and incendiary laksa and noodle soups from Malaysia of lamb, or use coconut milk instead of milk to make a creme
and Singapore. There are simple dishes that require just a little caramel, or serve steamed baby bok choy instead of green beans with
cooking and no complicated techniques, making them ideal for a traditional roast chicken. You may also like to try smearing tan-
day-to-day use in the home. For the confident cook, there are more doori paste over a rack of lamb for a change of pace, or baste the
complex dishes that are guaranteed to impress family and friends at next chicken you roast with green curry paste, and serve it with
your next diqner party or Sunday lunch, and taste delicious too! roast potatoes and a crisp green salad. The recipes are meant to be a
Most of the dishes are readily adapted to a Western-style table, and guide and not a constraint! Frequently, ingredients may be substitut-
hints and tips have been included as to how best to serve them. ed for each other without compromising on authenticity-just make
Common to the tables of all these countries is grain, which holds sure you do try the recipe as it is set out at least once though. If you
pride of place during a meal, as distinct from the Western table are attempting a recipe for the first time, it is very important that you
where the meat component or main course is the height of the meal. read the recipe all the way through to the end to make sure you have
In most tropical countries located on or near the equator such as the right equipment and ingredients to hand. With much Asian
Malaysia, Singapore, Philippines, and Indonesia, plain steamed rice cooking, the time-consuming work is in the preparation. After the
is the staple. However, be warned: there is rice and there is rice, and
they are not always interchangeable. The Chinese prefer the fragrant Below: The men in this Chinese tea-
long-grain jasmine rice, the Japanese a starchier short-grain variety. house have gathered to gossip as much
as to drink tea. Right: Like modern
The Thais and Indonesians often serve glutinous rice to mop up their
Japanese culture, Japanese food is a
curries. The Indians favor the basmati. As you venture above the striking blend of the old and the new.
equator, preference is frequently given to
wheat, whic):J. may be served in the form of
noodles, buns, or pancakes.
Another characteristic of Asian food is
its dependence on the humble soybean and
its by-products. Bean curd (tofu), soy sauce,
bean curd wrappers and bean paste sauces
are used in dishes from China to Indonesia,
with a little tweaking to local tastes.
And then there is the noodle ... whether
it be flat, round, dried, fresh, or is made of
egg, buckwheat, mung bean, potato starch,
wheat or ground rice, the Chinese love
affair with noodles has left its mark on
other Asian cuisines. The machines and
factories have taken over from the hand-
pulled noodles that the Chinese were par-
ticularly famous for, but there is no denying
the versatility of the end product. In Asia
they are stir-fried or pan-fried, or used in
soups, salads, and spring rolls, or eaten
with a sauce. They can be eaten as part of ingredients have been cleaned, chopped and sliced, the cooking
a meal or be a meal in a bowl, eaten at all times of the day, from process itself is usually fairly simple and straightforward.
breakfast to supper. A comprehensive, illustrated glossary (see pages 10-17) has
Asian cooks demand-and receive-the very best there is on been included to help you demystify and use some of the knobbly
offer from their local markets and suppliers, a hangover from their tubers and jars of brown stuff you may find in food stores. There is
agricultural heritage perhaps, or because supermarkets were few and also a chapter on cooking implements and a few simple techniques
far between until recently. The ingredients have to be of the freshest to help you prepare Asian food. Despite the advent of modern
quality: the vegetables just picked, the fish just out of the water, the methods and gizmos in Asian kitchens, some traditional implements
chicken just caught. This ingredient is then quickly cooked, usually are still regarded as irreplaceable. Not all kitchens, for instance, have
in a simple manner that would allow the essence of the produce to cookers complete with an oven, as most cooking is done on the top of
shine through. a stove. Many Asian kitchens are functional rather than aesthetic,
Please do not be wary of the foreignness of some of the ingredi- with meals cooked over an open fire. In urban areas, gas rings fuelled
ents used in this book; remember that the now-ubiquitous ginger by LPG are increasingly used.
and scallions (spring onions) had to start somewhere too! Most of Measurements in this book are given in volume as far as possible.
Of course you may like to
serve a series of Asian dishes for a
Western-style dinner, where the
dishes come out sequentially (as
opposed to all at once). The recipes
in this book have been structured
with this in mind, into categories
such as appetizers, soups, salads,
main courses, and desserts for ease
of use. You may need to increase
the quantities of the main dishes
slightly if you are not planning to
serve rice or bread with the meal.
A number of suggested menus-
for family meals, dinner parties
Top, main picture: This Balinese ritual should help ensure etc-are included in each chapter
a plentiful crop of rice. Above: In Indonesia, you're never to help you plan your meals.
too young to contribute to the family dinner table. Right:
Most diners in Asian countries
An array of succulent offerings at a Singaporean banana-
leaf restaurant. drink tea throughout a meal.
Spirits are also popular, especially
A conversion guide has been included on page 188 for your conve- at formal dinners and banquets. But there's no reason why you can't
nience. Unless otherwise stated, these recipes will serve four to six drink your favorite red or white wine if you are eating Asian food-
people as part of a shared meal of two to three dishes with rice. with some judicious tasting you will soon find out which goes best
The Asian table is a communal table. All dishes, with the excep- with what.
tion of dessert, are usually presented at once and served with rice. We hope The Food of Asia will inspire you, with its pictures,
Diners help themselves to whatever they want and to as much as words and delicious recipes, to prepare these luscious dishes at
they desire. There will usually be a soup, followed by or accompanied home. It will also let you gain a better understanding of the wonder-
with one or two meat dishes and a vegetable dish. Dessert, especially ful cuisines of the region and give you many years of happy eating.
in a domestic situation, is almost always sliced fresh seasonal fruit. And don't forget to have fun in the kitchen!