The Flour Pot Christmas Cookie Book: Creating Edible Works of Art for the Holidays

305 Pages·2009·15.524 MB·English

by  Greenberg, Margie;Greenberg, Abbey

9780762437412-cov.qxd:Layout 1 5/3/10 11:10 AM Page 1
THE
$29.95in U.S.A.
HH $37.95in Canada
£17.99in U.K.
THE
AA
HARVEST
RR EATING
VV COOKBOOK
HARVEST EATING
EE byKEITH SNOW
IS THE ANTIDOTE TO FAST FOOD.
SS
Harvest Eating is not a fad diet.
CHEF KEITH SNOW Rather it is a lifestyle of cooking and
MORE THAN A COOKBOOK, HARVEST EATING IS A LIFESTYLE that promotes good TT
eating . . . foods that are fresh and in season
is the host of the PBS series Harvest Eating health and sustainability by encouraging eating foods grown locally and naturally without the use of
—FROM THE INTRODUCTION
with Chef Snowand a nationally respected
harmful pesticides or other damaging chemicals. It is a community, a lifestyle, a movement. EE
authority on local, seasonal, and organic
W
HH AA RRVV EE SS TT EE AATT II NN GG
ITH THE BIRTH OF OLIVIA, HIS
food. He began his culinary career at an AA EE
Italian restaurant in the seventies and has The Harvest Eating Cookbook includes: HH first child, Keith Snow began thinking
worked in various culinary positions in TT TT about the foods that his family ate. He and his wife
(cid:129) More than 200 healthy, delicious, and easy recipes that use seasonal ingredients that can be
California, Florida, North Carolina, Mas- CCOOOOKKBBOOOOKK began preparing their own baby foods, milking
purchased locally
sachusetts, and Colorado, where he was II goats, collecting eggs, making yogurt, baking
the executive chef at Colorado’s Copper (cid:129) Accompanying video demonstrations available online at HarvestEating.com NN bread, eating grass-fed beef, making pickles, and
Mountain Resort before moving back to MORE THAN 200 RECIPES FOR COOKING WITH SEASONAL LOCAL INGREDIENTS canning tomatoes. “After six months I knew that
(cid:129) Full-color, mouth-watering photographs
North Carolina and creating HarvestEat- GG this was going to be a lifelong change for us,” said
KEITH SNOW
ing.com in 2006. Chef Snow is a found- (cid:129) Information about the economic and health benefits of eating locally Chef Snow.
ing board member of his local Slow Food
He became an evangelist for Harvest Eating in
(cid:129) Sourcing guide to help you find the freshest ingredients where you live C
chapter in Greenville, South Carolina,
O 2006 when he started the online social network-
where he now lives with his wife and two
O ing food site HarvestEating.com where he pro-
daughters.
K motes the concept of buying locally, eating
B seasonally, and living healthfully. With more
O
than 200 delicious seasonal recipes, full-color
Visit us on the web! O
photographs, and a guide to sourcing, The Har-
www.runningpresscooks.com
K
vest Eating Cookbookis your primer to a healthier
www.harvesteating.com
AS SEEN lifestyle. A do-it-yourself chapter called Cooko-
SNOW
on the nomics lets you take home-cooking to the next
ISBN: 978-0-7624-3741-2 PUBLIC level with recipes for crème frâiche, sausage,
TELEVISION yogurt, canned vegetables, and more. The easy-
SERIES
to-follow instructions make this perfect for the
novice,and the in-depth tips and Cookonomics
section make this a wonderful tool for a sea-
PRINTED IN CHINA
RUNNING soned cook.
PRESS
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THE
H A RV E S T
E AT I N G
COOKBOOK
MORE THAN 200 RECIPES FOR
COOKING WITH SEASONAL LOCAL INGREDIENTS
a
BY CHEF KEITH SNOW
PHOTOGRAPHY BY TRAVIS RUNION
RUNNING PRESS
PHILADELPHIA (cid:129) LONDON
HE Interior s1:Layout 1 1/25/10 8:49 AM Page 2
a
To my brother, Steven,
who has been a tireless supporter of Harvest Eating.
Our Harvest Eating victory is as much yours as mine.
a
© 2009 by Keith Snow
Photographs © 2009 by Travis Runion and Mark Doolittle, unless otherwise noted
with the exception of the following images:
© BrandX Pictures: p.14, left; p.23, right; p.27, all; p.57 bottom images
© Jupiter Images: p.262-63, p.265
All rights reserved under the Pan-American and International Copyright Conventions
Printed in China
This book may not be reproduced in whole or in part, in any form or by any means, electronic
or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system
now known or hereafter invented, without written permission from the publisher.
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Digit on the right indicates the number of this printing
Library of Congress Control Number:2009928393
ISBN 978-0-7624-3554-8
Cover and Interiordesign by Amanda Richmond
Edited by Geoffrey Stone
Typography: Berkeley Book, Helvetica, and Italia
Food styling by Keith Snow, Patrick Hartnett, and Tia Maria Bednar
Running Press Book Publishers
2300 Chestnut Street
Philadelphia, PA 19103-4371
Visit us on the web!
www.runningpresscooks.com
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ..4
INTRODUCTION ..5
PART I: WHAT IS HARVEST EATING ..11
CHAPTER 1: SUSTAINABILITY ..12
CHAPTER 2: SOURCING ..20
PART II: RECIPES ..29
CHAPTER 3 : BREAKFASTS AND BREADS ..30
CHAPTER 4: SANDWICHES AND APPETIZERS ..38
CHAPTER 5: SOUPS AND SALADS ..58
CHAPTER 6: SIDES ..94
CHAPTER 7: MAIN DISHES ..146
CHAPTER 8: SAUCES, SPREADS, DRESSINGS, AND OILS ..220
CHAPTER 9: DESSERTS AND DRINKS ..242
PART III: COOKONOMICS ..263
CHAPTER 10: BE INSPIRED ..264
CHAPTER 11: DO IT YOURSELF ..266
STOCKING A HARVEST EATING PANTRY ..296
INDEX ..297
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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
I AM VERY HUMBLED TO HAVE HAD THE enjoyment and nourishment. Thanks, Mom
opportunity to write this book. There are (and Dad) for cooking delicious foods (espe-
many people to thank. First and foremost, my cially soups and eggplant parmesan) and help-
editor for putting up with my missed deadlines ing make food the main event in my life. Thanks
and my sometimes poorly organized work, to my in-laws, Elisabeth and Mike, your food
thanks Geoff! Patrick (Patty-Choux), who traditions and recipes are gifts that keep giving
jumped in with no life vest to help organize my and will always be cherished by our family and
jumbled mess of a book, you rock man! Those our viewers. Special thanks to the talented team
close friends and family members whose at Harvest Eating who care tremendously about
prayers, monetary support, and encouragement the mission we’re on to change people’s eating
helped keep Harvest Eating alive during many habits through exciting, well-crafted visual
lean financial years when it seemed just a money media. Joseph and Travis, thanks guys, it’s been
pit and an impossible dream. My own family, a great ride! I’m grateful to the loyal Harvest Eat-
especially my incredibly lovely wife Sonja, for ing fans and viewers who have supported me
continuing to believe in me and help support with kind words, well wishes, and detailed feed-
my dreams which oftentimes seemed unlikely to back throughout the years. I especially want to
come true. My amazing children—Olivia Rose, thank God for giving me the ability, desire, and
Ava Elizabeth, and soon to be born Garrett Peter, raw ingredients to create great food, and the
who are a daily inspiration for me to continue tenacity and focus to make this adventure
modeling the traditional farming lifestyle, while become a career.
trying my best to provide healthy food for their
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INTRODUCTION
MY LIFE’S CULINARY JOURNEY
IGREW UP IN NORTHERN NEW JERSEY were dairy farms in upstate NY, the other near
in a small town; it was suburbia, a great place to the Amish country in Pennsylvania. In addition,
grow up. My days as a young boy were very typical, my oldest uncle raised award-winning Morgan
nothing out of the ordinary. I have very early mem- show horses in New Jersey. The time spent at
ories of the foods we ate and how my parents loved farms helped fuel my love for the farming
good food. There were many amazing meals, espe- lifestyle. Those fond memories led me to pur-
cially at holiday dinners. I clearly remember those chase land and build my own farmhouse and
tables set with fine silver and adorned with linens, horse barn when I returned to the East Coast to
candles and of course, great food. We had perfectly raise my family. I have raised chickens, dairy
roasted turkeys, hams, and roasts all served with goats, and still keep Paso Fino show horses on
plenty of delicious vegetable side dishes. I loved the farm. I often say “I was born to be a farmer,
the sausage and apple stuffing, green beans, but wound up a chef instead.”
mashed potatoes, baked sweet potatoes, Brussels Then it happened, in 1981, at the age of four-
sprouts gratinée, asparagus, broccoli, steamed cab- teen, a good friend asked me to help him by tak-
bage and much, much more. The desserts were ing over his dishwashing job at a local Italian
equally memorable. restaurant for one weekend so he could vacation
This constant culture of great food shaped my with his family. I sheepishly agreed to help, but,
taste buds and my future pursuits, even though to be honest, work was something I was not
I had no idea it was happening. During this time used to. I’ll admit that being the youngest of four
I remember cooking with my mother in the kids, I had an easy time around the house. I
kitchen, licking spoons and whisks filled with really did not do any chores whatsoever, this
freshly whipped cream. These experiences included yard work, which my older brothers
helped shape my love of food. took care of. So, at the age of fourteen I ventured
I vividly remember trips to Van Riper’s Farm into the kitchen of a busy restaurant as a shy,
and Tice’s Farm, two vibrant small farms and 110-pound kid with zero work ethic.
markets in suburban New Jersey, and weekend Chef Phillip Pelicano the owner was a gra-
trips to the family’s farms. Both of my uncles (on cious, fiery yet kind man who helped me to
Dad’s side) we’re involved in farming. There quickly learn the business of scrubbing pots and
5 a INTRODUCTION
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pans, plates, cups, bowls, and silverware. There of all-natural pasta sauces and managed to have
was no dish washing machine. Each piece was them distributed all across the country. This was
washed by hand, every knife, fork, and spoon. I no easy task, breaking into the food products
can remember struggling to keep up during the industry took lots of money, experience, and
busy hours when the plates were quickly mov- contacts, of which I had very little. During that
ing out to the dining room and coming back time I was still working in professional kitchens
twice as fast. I remember furiously scrubbing in Florida. Eventually, I left the kitchen to focus
dinner platters for the chef when he had only on the growing food products business. It was a
one or two left in his stack with ten dishes of wild ride and a great learning experience. I was
food on the stove yet to be plated. often at the receiving end of tough business les-
Eventually, I managed to keep up and also sons taught by wily food industry veterans.
found that the happenings at the stove and in the About eight years later, having worked myself
pizza oven were far more interesting to me than senseless, I found myself back in the kitchen of a
the dishes I was cleaning. I think my boss, a hard- small restaurant on a part time basis. I was now
working retired Italian Navy chef, could see that I a married man. At that point I realized that I
loved food. I loved eating it, prepping it, smelling loved the food much more than the grind of the
it, and just being around it. Chef Pelicano was like commercial kitchen. I needed to be around
a second father figure to me and treated me with a food, but not shoveling it through the service
fondness not usually experienced at work, cer- window of another lousy restaurant. Maybe the
tainly not in a professional kitchen. management side of kitchens would serve me
His food was simple, consistent, and delicious. better? This question led me to take the execu-
I can still remember the taste of his food: the tive chef position at a busy Rocky Mountain ski
melted cheese, tangy tomato sauces, buttery resort. It was a fast-paced busy resort with mul-
shrimp, and amazing thin crust pizzas. Those ini- tiple food outlets: catering, coffee shops, and a
tial food experiences solidified my love of food, general store of sorts. This was a chance to work
my love of cooking, and my future. Of course I with some great people and gain some invalu-
did not know that until twenty-five years later. able work experience not to mention enjoying
Fast-forward elevenyears to 1992. With sev- the outdoors as well.
eral more cooking gigs under my belt including During those Colorado years our family
stints in California and Florida, my desire to expanded with the birth of our first daughter,
diversify in the food industry led me to create a Olivia Rose Snow, who was one of the catalysts
brand of Italian-inspired food products—pasta for my current endeavors. I realized what a
sauces to be exact. I created four distinct flavors blessing a child is and the awesome responsibil-
6 a HARVEST EATING
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ity raising one can be. When Olivia was just that played in the town of Breckenridge. I had
about ready to start eating solid food, about six- played hockey most of my life including collegiate
months-old or so, my wife and I started dis- hockey. Playing ice hockey at ten thousand feet
cussing the future of Olivia’s diet. I had never above sea level was certainly nothing I was used to.
thought about it before and quickly realized that I remember the fist time I skated and could not
these decisions would affect her health and well breathe at all; I almost quit on the spot. My team-
being throughout her lifetime, not to mention mate and current boss, a short-tempered farm boy
her relationship with food. We decided that from Canada turned corporate spreadsheet jockey,
feeding her with natural foods, organic when would have no part of that. He was determined to
possible, would be the best choice. We made all whip me into shape, not only at work, but also at
of her baby food from scratch and kept her diet the hockey rink. The hockey team was the perfect
perfectly clean for years to come. This meant outlet to relieve the stress of work. I quickly
dealing with lots of fresh vegetables, food mills, returned to form and loved the game of hockey
juicers, strainers, and other tools and methods again. Those were great times that I miss today.
of making baby food. We didn’t feed her any One morning I woke up and found that my
jarred food or bottled juice whatsoever—just right ring finger was swollen after a game. I
fruits and vegetables, organic hand-ground thought nothing of it until several days later
grains that were crafted into cereals and of when it became very inflamed and painful. My
course lots of Mama’s milk. doctor diagnosed me with a tumor of the tendon
Now, I am the first to admit that my wife had sheath, a rather common finger ailment that
more to do with this than I did. She is a very would require surgery. These tumors can be can-
determined, take-charge gal that has discipline cerous so I was nervous as a schoolboy on a
akin to Chef Pelicano, however she is much pret- prom date. During surgery the doctor did not
tier. At this point in time I had virtually no expo- find a tumor rather a lot of inflammatory tissue
sure to organic foods. In the restaurant business, growing all over the tendons of my hand, from
only a select few were sourcing organics and local the tip of my finger to the wrist. They removed
foods. Organic foods were considered “whacky” the fatty tissue deposits and sent them to a lab to
and expensive. Consumption of local organic test; they were not cancerous.
food was certainly not a mainstream movement, It was non-specific inflammatory tissue that
rather something reserved for people who drove was invading my body. I rehabbed my finger, but
VW buses and wore sandals. about three months later the swelling returned.
While in Colorado I had a chance to start playing I then had an MRI which showed the inflamma-
ice hockey again as our resort had a corporate team tory tissue was back and now in all my fingers,
7 a INTRODUCTION
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and my arms. I was referred to a large arthritis with different types of foods and food combina-
clinic in Denver for a full diagnosis. It was deter- tions. Things like flax seeds, coconut oil, raw
mined that I had nonspecific inflammatory milk, local eggs, dark leafy greens, and vegeta-
arthritis. A serious life change was in my future. bles we grew were all part of my discovery. I real-
After a short few years managing a multi-million ized that local and traditional foods were good
dollar budget and many hundreds of seasonal for my health and the right choice for our chil-
employees in a highly charged, soap opera like dren. We were milking goats, collecting eggs,
atmosphere, I decided to leave the high country making yogurt, culturing crème frâiche, baking
and the food business to concentrate on my own whole wheat bread, eating grass-fed beef, drink-
wellness and raise our daughter in a better cli- ing raw cow’s milk, juicing fresh vegetables,
mate. We moved to North Carolina. making pickles, canning tomatoes, drying toma-
In early 2003 we left the high county of Col- toes, and many other food-related pursuits.
orado and settled on a twelve-acre horse farm in After about six months of immersion in this new
the scenic rolling hills of western North Car- way of eating, I knew that this was going to be a
olina. It was country living. I quickly learned to lifelong change for us. We were now eating like
love this special little area of the country; it just many Europeans and early Americans, that is to
felt like home. The smells of cut pasture grass, say eating with the seasons. We were growing
my John Deere tractor, the allure of the Blue and sourcing only the best local foods. Another
Ridge Mountains right out the door, and the important thing happened during this time: I
ability to have farm animals all contributed to realized that I missed the food industry. I had
our new life in the country. studied to receive my health and life insurance
In the first few months we had horses, chick- license but quickly fell on my face trying to
ens, dairy goats, and vegetable gardens. We ate build a business in insurance. I hated the insur-
homegrown foods to create a healthy and deli- ance business. I was more focused on diet and
cious traditional food diet. I found other sources our new eating regimen and was truly amazed at
of food nearby including creamy raw milk from how many other parents asked us what we were
Jersey cows, local honey, little farmers’ markets, doing. How did our child actually eat vegeta-
and much more. Never before did I take such an bles? How did we make baby food? Where did
active role in my food purchases; I tried very we find raw milk and eggs? These and many
hard to eat locally and eliminate any foods that other questions helped spark a passion in me
were not going to help my recently diagnosed that has led me to my current career in culinary
autoimmune condition. media. Now that others were inquiring about
Shortly after the move I began experimenting our new skills and wealth of information con-
8 a HARVEST EATING
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cerning diet, cooking, and sourcing local foods, ers. I quickly put up a website and the rest as
I knew I had to share this information with oth- they say is history. Harvest Eating was born!
HARVEST EATING
a a
WHAT IS HARVEST EATING? Harvest only during specific seasons. Over the past fifty
Eating is not a fad diet. Rather a lifestyle years industrialization and the “enhancement”
of cooking and eating using methods that have of natural foods has made it possible to eat all
been practiced for centuries all over the globe. fruits and vegetables at any time of the year,
The approach is simple: Buy foods that are fresh regardless of the season.
and in-season; then prepare them using whole, We Americans do things differently, and that is
natural ingredients produced by farmers not part of the problems with our diet. Many foods
chemists. If your second-grader can’t read it, you are processed and bought in bulk; therefore, they
definitely don’t want to eat it. lack the nutrition they once had. Harvest Eating
Quite simply, to eat seasonal means to con- requires you to become in tuned to what grows in
sume fruits and vegetables only during the time your area, which markets carry local, when the
of year, or season in which they are harvested. farmer’s market is held, and where some “fringe
Different seasons bring with them the growth ingredients” can be purchased. The beauty is you
and subsequent harvest of different produce as can convert a small percentage of your diet and
dictated by the climate in which they are grown. cooking methods using the information con-
For centuries, many cultures have eaten a diet tained in this book . . . or go all in. Either way,
based solely on fruits and vegetables available Harvest Eating can benefit you at any level.
9 a INTRODUCTION