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The Fishmonger's Apprentice: The Expert's Guide to Selecting, Preparing, and Cooking a World of Seafood, Taught by the Masters PDF

209 Pages·2011·106.63 MB·English
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the fishmonger’s apprentice 001-208_20789.indd 1 8/27/10 12:53:51 PM 001-208_20789.indd 1 8/27/10 12:51:38 PM (Text)((RRaayy)) JJoobb::0088--2200777700//2200778899 TTiittllee:: RRPP--FFiisshhmmoonnggeerr’’ss AApppprreennttiiccee ##117755 DDttpp::220044 PPaaggee::11 2 the expert’s guide to seLecting, preparing, and cooking a WorLd of seafood, taught by the masters With photography by steve Legato 001-208_20789.indd 2 8/27/10 12:53:51 PM 001-208_20789.indd 2 8/27/10 12:51:38 PM (Text)((RRaayy)) JJoobb::0088--2200777700//2200778899 TTiittllee:: RRPP--FFiisshhmmoonnggeerr’’ss AApppprreennttiiccee ##117755 DDttpp::220044 PPaaggee::22 3 the expert’s guide to the seLecting, preparing, and fishmonger’s cooking a WorLd of seafood, taught by the masters With photography apprentice aLiza green by steve Legato 001-208_20789.indd 3 8/27/10 12:53:51 PM 001-208_20789.indd 3 8/27/10 12:51:38 PM (Text)((RRaayy)) JJoobb::0088--2200777700//2200778899 TTiittllee:: RRPP--FFiisshhmmoonnggeerr’’ss AApppprreennttiiccee ##117755 DDttpp::220044 PPaaggee::33 to the courageous and dedicated fishing famiLies of the WorLd. 001-208_20789.indd 5 8/27/10 12:53:51 PM 001-208_20789.indd 5 8/27/10 12:51:39 PM (Text)((RRaayy)) JJoobb::0088--2200777700//2200778899 TTiittllee:: RRPP--FFiisshhmmoonnggeerr’’ss AApppprreennttiiccee ##117755 DDttpp::220044 PPaaggee::55 66 tthhee ffiisshhmmoonnggeerr’’ss aapppprreennttiiccee contents foreword 8 intervieWs With the masters michael mcnicholas: operations and Quality control manager for uoriji fresh introduction 10 Jay silver: retail fishmonger for (superfrozen fish from Japan) 125 a fishmonger’s taxonomy 12 eighteen years 26 chris Leftwich: chief inspector to the a few good tools 18 cesare casella: proprieter of salumeria Worshipful company of fishmongers’, rosi, new york city, and dean of the italian London 130 culinary academy 33 zarela martinez: owner of zarela velia de angelis: chef, cooking teacher, restaurant, new york city, and and co-owner of La champagnia, orvieto, cookbook author 136 italy 41 sandy nguyen: founder of coastal brooks takenaka: assistant general communities consulting 148 manager of united fishing agency, sheila and mike dassatt: co-founders honolulu, hawaii 60 of the downeast Lobstermen’s Lance forman: managing director of association, belfast, maine 162 h. forman & son, London 72 franz sydow: venezuelan restaurateur and aglaia kremezi: greek culinary authority, founder of aruba gastronomic society 172 author, and Journalist 88 sinclair philip: owner of sooke harbour natalie Webster: director of operations house, vancouver island, british for american albacore fishing association columbia, canada 181 and member of a fifth-generation albacore david mink: founder of the oyster house, tuna fishing family 92 philadelphia, pennsylvania 190 hagen stehr and Jemma mccowan: founder and marketing consultant of cleanseas 102 Janet amateau: chef/owner of tradescàntia terrace restaurant, pineda de mar (barcelona), spain 120 001-208_20789.indd 6 8/27/10 12:54:0 PM 001-208_20789.indd 6 8/27/10 12:51:39 PM (Text)((RRaayy)) JJoobb::0088--2200777700//2200778899 TTiittllee:: RRPP--FFiisshhmmoonnggeerr’’ss AApppprreennttiiccee ##117755 DDttpp::220044 PPaaggee::66 77 iLLustrated techniQues cutting tuna Loins 95 resources 200 skinning and filleting skate Wings 106 index 202 scaling, gutting, and trimming Large choosing and preparing salt-cod 110 acknowledgments 207 round fish 20 shad: extracting roe, filleting, and boning 112 about the author 208 filleting a Large round freshwater fish 23 eel: skinning and preparing 122 about the photographer 208 removing pin bones from round fish 29 refreshing superfrozen tuna 128 cleaning fish through the gills 30 dover sole: skinning and filleting 132 filleting round fish, butterfly style 35 cleaning squid 138 boning a round fish through the back 38 purging and opening hardshell clams 142 filleting Large flatfish in four fillets 43 cleaning Live sea scallops and filleting small flatfish in two fillets 49 bay scallops 144 filleting flatfish inside out 52 deheading, shelling, and deveining fresh pan-dressing medium Whole fish 55 shrimp (or prawns) two Ways 150 cutting fish cheeks 58 cleaning octopus 154 slashing fish 62 cleaning and trimming Live abalone 156 cutting swordfish chops 64 cleaning Live sea urchin 160 cutting fish steaks from halibut 69 Lobster: selecting and preparing 164 filleting salmon 75 cleaning dungeness crabs 174 cutting fish steaks from salmon 78 cleaning soft-shell blue crabs 178 boning fish steak and making fish roulade 80 cleaning geoduck 184 cutting fish steaks from cod 84 preparing crawfish 187 deboning small bony fish 90 shucking oysters 194 001-208_20789.indd 7 8/27/10 12:54:6 PM 001-208_20789.indd 7 8/27/10 12:51:39 PM (Text)((RRaayy)) JJoobb::0088--2200777700//2200778899 TTiittllee:: RRPP--FFiisshhmmoonnggeerr’’ss AApppprreennttiiccee ##117755 DDttpp::220044 PPaaggee::77 8 the fishmonger’s apprentice 001-201_C58609.indd 8 9/14/10 6:53:27 PM 001-201_C58609.indd 8 9/14/10 6:53:50 PM (Text)((RRaayy)) JJoobb::0088--2200777700//2200778899 TTiittllee:: RRPP--FFiisshhmmoonnggeerr’’ss AApppprreennttiiccee 0099--CC5588660033 ##117755 DDttpp::220044 PPaaggee::88 foreWord 9 samueL d’angeLo, industry advisor for this book, is a fourth-generation seafood expert Who buiLt a corner store into a Large and respected WhoLesaLer based in phiLadeLphia and serving restaurants and retaiLers from neW york to Washington, d.c. In 2009, we moved into new efficient green headquarters and started our own Sustained Seas Program, becoming the only MSC-certified fish company in the region. (The Marine Stewardship Council, a global organization started in the United foreWord Kingdom, works with fisheries, seafood companies, scientists, conservation groups, and the public to promote the best environmental choices in seafood through My grandparents, all born in Sicily, instilled When Christmas came, I couldn’t wait to its fishery certification program.) We are in their children the culture of the sea and work in the store with all my cousins. We now a major regional distributor, importing the way to sustain our living from it. As a all had our chores: One scrubbed the walls fish and shellfish from around the world. young man, I would travel to Sicily with my and floors, another cleaned the basement grandfather and visit local fish markets. where we soaked our bacala and stockfish, It’s so important to educate consumers. The catch of the day might be just a half and a third took out the guts and fish heads If people don’t trust their fishmonger, dozen small fish including perhaps a few to the barrels destined for pig fodder for they’ll buy only for price. You can’t do small whiting, which not long before had nearby farms. On Christmas Eve, we all sat that with fresh fish. It all goes back to the been abundant and cheap. Back in Phila- at the table and feasted together on the fishmonger—the person working behind delphia, I’d see the large king whiting we’d traditional seven fishes—or more. the counter. Fishmongers are special, get from Maine. Now those big whiting are they watch out for us and all the creatures essentially gone except for in Alaska, which The 1970s brought a renaissance in food, they live and work with. If they don’t know has a sustainable fishery. Unfortunately, and the fish followed. Our business wasn’t what they’re doing, they’re not going to be what I saw in Europe close to forty years just for the neighborhood anymore. We able to sell something new. The average ago is happening in many places now. began selling to local restaurants and consumer has very little idea about what Because of what I learned, Samuels & Son taprooms. Mussel and clam consumption they’re buying. Unless the fishmonger is committed to being known as the sus- was going up and fish such as red snapper can explain how to cook it, people won’t tainable fish supplier in the region as part and wild salmon became a staple for us. In touch an unfamiliar fish. Most people eat of our investment in the strong future of our 1974, after graduating from Central High a limited variety of fish. In my childhood, fisheries, oceans, and waterways. school, I became the buyer, running the mackerel, bluefish, porgy, butterfish, and whole operation. I just loved working with sardines were staples. I still keep a can of When you grow up in a fish market, you this stuff! mackerel around for a quick lunch. Herring learn the many ways of the seafood world— has unbelievable flavor and nutritional the skills and knowledge garnered by gen- In 1989, I opened our wholesale company benefits. I’d like to see more people expand erations of fishermen and fishmongers. My because our restaurant trade had grown their seafood repertoires to some of these grandfather, Giuseppe Ippolito, started out considerably. We took all our knowledge underutilized—and delicious—species. peddling fish on the street. Later he got a and perseverance and basically went to horse and cart, then a truck, and eventually battle with our competition—companies The seafood business is as hard as ever. I a corner store, Ippolito’s, which our family that just a short time ago were our suppli- don’t think that will ever change, but I still still owns and operates. My mother, Rose ers. As a small wholesaler, we didn’t have love to handle the fish. We work every day D’Angelo was the original fishmonger. She a strong relationship yet with our vendors, at Samuels as a family. My four children could cut and fillet any fish my grandfather so sourcing was a constant challenge. But work with me and the grandchildren come Giuseppe brought her. I learned the trade we never relented and came through for and visit. All of us need to be aware and act in my free time. Daily, I practiced cutting our customers with some of the nicest and appropriately to preserve the bounties of and filleting, weighing and wrapping, and freshest seafood ever brought into Phila- the sea so that our grandchildren have the finishing the sale by ringing it up at the delphia. By 1995, Samuels had grown to a same opportunity as I did growing up, to register. It was more than a corner store for solid distributor and we were ready to send enjoy and work with the fish and shellfish me, it was our family’s foundation. our seafood to other cities. from our oceans and rivers. 001-208_20789.indd 9 8/27/10 12:54:10 PM 001-208_20789.indd 9 8/27/10 12:51:39 PM (Text)((RRaayy)) JJoobb::0088--2200777700//2200778899 TTiittllee:: RRPP--FFiisshhmmoonnggeerr’’ss AApppprreennttiiccee ##117755 DDttpp::220044 PPaaggee::99 10 the fishmonger’s apprentice choosing the best seafood fresh fish is at its best when it’s in season and plentiful. the time to buy fish is when the price is low; the time to eat fish is right away. use your eyes, your nose, and if permitted, your hands to choose that fish, using tips in this book. most important, buy from someone who knows and cares. be flexible: buy the best looking fish, not necessarily the one you came in for. many fish can be easily substituted; for example, black sea bass, striped bass, red snapper, yellowtail snapper, and hybrid striped bass will all work well for the same dish. individually line-caught (by trolling) fish is generally of higher quality than net- caught. fish that is caught, promptly bled, and immedi- ately chilled is best. venture into ethnic markets to get a different selection of seafood and often at a lower price than mainstream markets. try less sought-after species such as porgies, weakfish, or croakers, which may be bony, darker-fleshed species such as bluefish, mahimahi, or mackerel, or uncommon species such as skate, which are usually sauteed, and red gurnard, which are excellent in soup. 001-201_C58609.indd 10 9/29/10 3:50:7 PM 001-208_20789.indd 10 8/27/10 12:51:40 PM (Text)((RRaayy)) JJoobb::0088--2200777700//2200778899 TTiittllee:: RRPP--FFiisshhmmoonnggeerr’’ss AApppprreennttiiccee 09-C58636 ##117755 DDttpp::220044 PPaaggee::1100

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An ocean of fish and seafood preparation techniques at your fingertips!In The Fishmonger’s Apprentice, you get insider access to real life fishermen, wholesale markets, fish buyers, chefs, and other sources—far away from the supermarket, and everywhere the fish go well before they make it to the
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